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      <title>No-Till Farmer</title>
      <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/</link>
      <description>The latest news from No-Till Farmer, http://www.no-tillfarmer.com.</description>
      <language>en-us</language>
      <docs>http://blogs.law.harvard.edu/tech/rss</docs>
      <generator>Envision IT Forum System</generator>
      <copyright>Copyright 2009 Envision Information Technologies, http://www.envisionitllc.com</copyright>
      <ttl>60</ttl>
      <item>
         <title>Yetter floating sharktooth trashwhips</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post35943</link>
         <description>I have the Yetter sharktooth trashwhips with depth wheels. Having trouble with them loading with soil. Thought maybe they had to scour off.After many times of knocking the soil off, they fill right back up.Some say I have to go to the straight teeth.I would like to make sharktooth blades work, being I already purchased them.</description>
         <pubDate>Tue, 08 Jun 2010 14:17:20 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">35943</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to John Blue Piston Pump
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post35703</link>
         <description>In any problem analysis, we have to specify the problem, check whether there is any deviation from the normal condition, identify the possible causes, evaluate the possible causes and then confirm the true cause.
Pumps or other machinery will give tell tale signs when they are not working properly. An observant pump user will be able to avoid major breakdowns or damage if the problem is corrected early.
In order to solve any pump problem, we need to notice the symptoms carefully so as to determine the most likely causes. Instruments like pressure gauges are very helpful and should be installed in the pumping system.
Very often we do have to rely on our 5 senses to pinpoint the exact symptom. Normally, pump problems can be classified into Suction Related, System Related, or Mechanical Related. It can also be a combination of these.
Most of the system related problems occur because of design flaw. For example, the designer may have chosen the wrong pump whose characteristic does not match the system requirement. Suction related problems are usually caused by air lock that are due to a variety of reasons...
The effects of mechanical related problems could manifest themselves as suction related problems - air leaks in the system, worn out impellers, and mouth rings - but the most common symptom is the presence of vibration and abnormal noise in the equipment.
DiagnoPump, pump troubleshooter has been created for pump users and sellers to help them find the solution quickly. Arranged so that the easiest (and often overlooked) causes are examined first, it could be a very useful tool.
If you are a beginner, you can start the troubleshooting from the very first steps. More experienced users may want to start from the later stages in the symptom list. The symptoms have beenidentified to make it easy to zero in on the correct ones. The symptoms have been arranged as:
1. No Flow, No Pressure - No water delivered at all
2. Low Flow and Low Pressure - Pump does not deliver sufficient water or Pump does not deliver water after some time or Insufficient pressure developed
3. Short Lifespan of Shaft Seal or Packing - Shaft seal or Gland Packing does not last long
4. Short Lifespan of Bearings, Noisy Operation - Bearings do not last long or vibration and noisy operation or overheating of parts or seizure of bearings
5. Pump Trips - Pump stops by itself or Excessive power consumption
With this easy pump troubleshooter, anyone could easily pinpoint the causes in a very short time.</description>
         <pubDate>Tue, 17 Nov 2009 23:53:44 -0600</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">35703</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to No-till planter ?
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post35651</link>
         <description>Hi, we are interested in purchasing a used no till seed drill. We have seen a video on the Haybuster 101 and were really impressed. We have rolling terrain and want to reseed our old pastures for our beef cattle for rotational grazing. Would welcome any advice on different types. we thought 10&#039; for width is enough. we are located  on the mid-coastal area of california. Thanks</description>
         <pubDate>Mon, 09 Nov 2009 14:30:48 -0600</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">35651</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to ? on rawson zone tillage cart/planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post30547</link>
         <description>That is a problem with the system.  I had better luck with one pass notill so I stuck with it.</description>
         <pubDate>Thu, 27 Aug 2009 21:35:04 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">30547</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to deutz-allis 385 planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31055</link>
         <description>They do pretty well, just watch your planter weight, especially on the rear of the planter.  I am not sure if Martin closing wheels are available but I would adapt them if possible.  I would talk to the Martin people and Dave Moeller in Keota Iowa to nail down the setup.  You have the basics of a good planter.</description>
         <pubDate>Sat, 11 Apr 2009 05:18:00 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31055</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to 52' BLUMHART PICKUP SPRAYER FOR SALE
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32991</link>
         <description>There was a guy looking for one at the notill conference.

You can advertize it for free at http://talk.newagtalk.com/forums/forum-view.asp?fid=8</description>
         <pubDate>Mon, 16 Feb 2009 11:00:22 -0600</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32991</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to deutz-allis 385 planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31054</link>
         <description>It likes medium rounds!  Other than that it is a good notill planter!  Well built and handles residue pretty well for its age.  Inexpensive way to notill!</description>
         <pubDate>Sun, 25 Jan 2009 11:42:14 -0600</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31054</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Brazilian Planters
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32881</link>
         <description>I have a friend in Brazil who can probably direct you to the information you are seeking.

Email me at edwinkle@verizon.net and I will try to get your information.

Ed Winkle</description>
         <pubDate>Thu, 18 Dec 2008 11:46:34 -0600</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32881</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Haybuster Coulters &amp; Disc
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32187</link>
         <description>Not sure if ads like yours are welcome here or not but would be interested in your contact info.

Email me at edwinkle@verizon.net</description>
         <pubDate>Sat, 13 Dec 2008 12:13:25 -0600</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32187</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to No-till planter ?
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32877</link>
         <description>Has anyone tried Phil Needhams new rolling seed firmer in soybeans?

www.needhamag.com

Ed Winkle</description>
         <pubDate>Sat, 01 Nov 2008 19:24:07 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32877</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to No-till planter ?
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32876</link>
         <description>The biggest step was when I took off the coulter, Mark.

Have you tried that?

Ed</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 11 Apr 2007 10:14:36 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32876</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to No-till planter ?
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32875</link>
         <description>Setting up a planter for no till is as hard as you want to make it. To get started you need a coulter, second spiked closing wheels are in my opinion the most vital part of the no till machine. Once those two bases are covered you can no till, the options of international guage wheels and the keeton seed firmers will always be there but if you are just getting started they are not a must. My main point is to wear out your guage wheels and true v discs, then when you are in there replacing them decide weather or not you need the other stuff. You dictate how much you want to spend.  </description>
         <pubDate>Mon, 19 Mar 2007 18:50:48 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32875</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to wheat stubble/no-till corn</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post33005</link>
         <description>Gerard,

The easiest I ever planted no-till corn was in two year soybean stubble.  Works wonderful.

Wheat with double crop bean stubble works great.

You have to rot the wheat stubble down to make it work or slice it, it is hard to push with your residue managers or row cleaners.

I would apply N to the straw or use your broadcast fertilizer plan to help it break down and the longer the better as long as you don&#039;t encourage weeds.

Then you need to control the weeds before you plant the corn or before it emerges.

Ed Winkle
www.erinet.com/hymark
</description>
         <pubDate>Sat, 01 Oct 2005 18:57:22 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">33005</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to White Planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32886</link>
         <description>What is new at White?  Has anyone heard or seen anything new?

Thanks,

Ed Winkle
www.erinet.com/hymark
</description>
         <pubDate>Sat, 01 Oct 2005 18:43:02 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32886</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>wheat stubble/no-till corn</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post33004</link>
         <description> what is the best residue to plant no-till corn in ? I previously plant  beans,wheat and want to start no-till corn. Is it better to no-till corn into bean stubble or can it be done into wheat stubble with good sucess? sorry that i am in the wrong page area.</description>
         <pubDate>Mon, 26 Sep 2005 20:21:49 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">33004</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to 8000 series planter/ Martin closer
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32864</link>
         <description>So how did it work Dave?

What does your crop look like this year?

Ed Winkle</description>
         <pubDate>Mon, 19 Sep 2005 12:06:29 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32864</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Cheap Cigarettes </title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post33002</link>
         <description>It seems that I found a good resource of discount cigarettes online. &lt;a href=http://www.tosmoke.com&gt;www.ToSmoke.com&lt;/a&gt; - offers cheap cigarettes online. I bought a few Marlboro cartons ($12 per carton). 

All brand Cigarettes there: 

Bond Street Cigarettes
Boss Cigarettes
Camel Cigarettes
Captain Black Cigarettes
Chesterfield Cigarettes
Davidoff Cigarettes
Dunhill Cigarettes
Karelia Cigarettes
Kent Cigarettes
L&amp;M Cigarettes
LD - Liggett Ducat Cigarettes
Lucky Strike Cigarettes
Magna Cigarettes
Marlboro Cigarettes
Monte Carlo Cigarettes
More Cigarettes
Next Cigarettes
Pall Mall Cigarettes
Parliament Cigarettes
Priluky Cigarettes
Prima Cigarettes
R1 Cigarettes
Rothmans Cigarettes
Salem Cigarettes
Sobranie Cigarettes
Trussardi Cigarettes
Vogue Cigarettes
West Cigarettes
Winston Cigarettes</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 31 Aug 2005 11:46:46 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">33002</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Great Plains 3510 Air Drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32250</link>
         <description>I have a great plains air drill but it is a 30ft. Same setup as you are interested in. I am going to sell it. Let me know if you are interested. ggotti@cox.net</description>
         <pubDate>Fri, 17 Dec 2004 22:24:51 -0600</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32250</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Great Plains 3510 Air Drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32251</link>
         <description>I have a great plains air drill but it is a 30ft. Same setup as you are interested in. I am going to sell it. Let me know if you are interested. ggotti@cox.net</description>
         <pubDate>Fri, 17 Dec 2004 22:24:50 -0600</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32251</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to G.P. notill air drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32953</link>
         <description>I have a great plains 30ft air drill I am selling. Let me know if you are still interested. Email @ ggotti@cox.net</description>
         <pubDate>Fri, 17 Dec 2004 21:44:53 -0600</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32953</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to JD 750 Double Box Drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32859</link>
         <description>Name: John W
Email: 
They are a real John Deere setup. Made to put dry fertilizer between every other seed row using the same type opener as used for seed. Makes for a long and heavy drill. Probably don&#039;t see many because most bean planters don&#039;t put down fertilizer so they don&#039;t need them. Yetter does or did make an attachment with their openers to put down liquid fertilizer between seed rows.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32859</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>carbide planter scrapers
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32861</link>
         <description>Name: richard smithSubject: carbide planter scrapers
Email: rsm2us@yahoo.com
has anyone had experienced with carbide scrapers? are they worth the added cost?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32861</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>8000 series planter/ Martin closer
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32863</link>
         <description>Name: DaveSubject: 8000 series planter/ Martin closer
Email: 
Bought a new 8000 series planter and have to decide on the single press wheel with the martin seed closers (which I have now) or the angled closing wheels with the martins attached to these. I will be using the Keetons as I did on my 6000 but I had a problem with the Martin closers getting them close enough at the bottom (2.5&quot;) with the single wheel but with it I didn&#039;t need to drag a chain. The only time this was a problem was in tough damp conditions. 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32863</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Knife Rolls for Notill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32866</link>
         <description>Name: JeffSubject: Knife Rolls for Notill
Email: 
Dont have any reason to need them really, but every corn head I look at has them.  Are there any downsides to these in notill?  I would think that the smaller trash could blow into piles or get washed into piles easier.  Like I say, I get by fine right now without them.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32866</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>No-till planter ?
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32868</link>
         <description>Name: BrianSubject: No-till planter ?
Email: 
I currently have a kinze 2200 econo fold planter with no attachments. My question is can I set this planter up for effective no-till or should I be looking at a differrent planter. If I can use this planter what attachments should I look at adding. I am new at no-till but I will be no-tilling come next spring. Thanks in advance for any and all information.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32868</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to No-till planter ?
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32869</link>
         <description>Name: Jeffery
Email: 
You have alot of work ahead of you (or money).  You need row cleaners, Keatons, tined closing wheels, and CIH gauge wheels.  Alot of money, but performance that cannot be beat (yet).
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32869</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to No-till planter ?
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32870</link>
         <description>Name: John
Email: 
Your planter will do well.  I would add the Martin row cleaner and spading closing wheels. I also use the Ketton seed firmer to put on starter fertilzer with insecticed.  Also I like the I-H depth wheel tires and a drag chain made from the county grader chains.  Your can find all this at the Martin web site.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32870</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to No-till planter ?
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32871</link>
         <description>Name: Ducks
Email: 
The attachments to start out with would be a coulter row cleaner, and a good fert placement coulter.. Yetter has a new floating row cleaner, that can be locked down for corn on corn residue.. Give them a call, they work with first time no-tillers all the time,like me. 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32871</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to No-till planter ?
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32872</link>
         <description>Name: jeff
Email: harmseed@prairieinet.net
 Brian, give serious consideration to the kinze row cleaner and coulter combo. It is heavy duty and has a simple eccentric to adjust the height. It is made for kinze by Martin.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32872</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to No-till planter ?
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32873</link>
         <description>Name: Don
Email: 
As the earlier posts said, use Martin closers and Caseih tires.  Both are absolutely mandatory for successful no till.  I wouldn&#039;t think of going into the field with anything else.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32873</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to No-till planter ?
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32874</link>
         <description>Name: Tanman
Email: 
We used the Yetter combination coulter row cleaner this spring and got along great. I think it was called the Titan. We liked to be able to let it float or to be pinned solid. Some fields had some tougher residue. We liked the 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32874</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Brazilian Planters
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32879</link>
         <description>Name: Colin MillsSubject: Brazilian Planters
Email: cm@eastriggs7.fsnet.co.uk
Do any No Tillers out there have nay experience of working with Brazilian Planters such as MARCHESAN,BALDAN etc.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32879</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Brazilian Planters
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32880</link>
         <description>Name: sam
Email: sampatch@galaxyinternet.net
I will be recieving my first container of Vence Tudo planters fron Brasil in a few weeks. I will let you know a lot more next spring. They look very durable and dependable and I have watched them work in Brasil.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32880</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>White Planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32883</link>
         <description>Name: Colin MillsSubject: White Planter
Email: cm@eastriggs7.fsnet.co.uk
Interested to hear/know readers opinion of the WHITE planter,in terms of performance,metering etc.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32883</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to White Planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32884</link>
         <description>Name: myron kersten
Email: kerstencorn@cdsinet.net
Kansas State University had all the planters in last year. Planted corn and beans with em. White came out the best as far as gentle on seed, spacing, yield. White only drops seed 17 inches and up to 8 MPH, but for picket fence stants 3-4 MPH is better. Myron
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32884</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to White Planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32885</link>
         <description>Name: dewey
Email: deweyv2000@yahoo.com
ive got a white 6600 double frame planter. we really like it. its easy to operate, its accurate and the monitor is always right on the money. myron is right, if you can bear to plant under 5 mph the stand is next to perfect. supposedly it plants rounds better than flats, but weve had no problems with flats.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32885</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Single disk fertilizer knife
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32888</link>
         <description>Name: StuSubject: Single disk fertilizer knife
Email: 
There was a post here at one time that said someone had an after market fertilizer knife for John Deere&#039;s single disk opener...Said it doesn&#039;t plug... want to know who to contact...couldn&#039;t locate original post.Thanks.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32888</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Single disk fertilizer knife
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32889</link>
         <description>Name: Kevin WCMO
Email: 
david moeller at Moeller Ag Service in Washington, Iowa.  very helpful individual as i have done buisness with in past and will do again in the future.  i forgot to metion the knife you are talking about is for liquid.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32889</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Single disk fertilizer knife
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32890</link>
         <description>Name: Roger
Email: rctbp66@hotmail.com
www.moelleragservice.com
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32890</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Bought a 1590, lots of ?'s.
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32892</link>
         <description>Name: GrasseedSubject: Bought a 1590, lots of ?&#039;s.
Email: 
I have just purchased a JD 1590 drill. What kinds of add-on&#039;s are worth looking into for this set-up. Does anyone make &quot;straw straightners&quot; for this thing. I will be planting a wide variety of crops into a wide variety of soil types, conditions, and residue levels. 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32892</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Bought a 1590, lots of ?'s.
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32893</link>
         <description>Name: John W
Email: 
You might check with Jim at Dawn equipment. He sells notched closing wheels that should help if you seed into wet soil and the seed slot tends to stay open. Never heard of any strawstraighters, but some row cleaners are available if your seeding on wider row spacings.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32893</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>No till/ and Deep tiller
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32895</link>
         <description>Name: DaveSubject: No till/ and Deep tiller
Email: 
Looking at a DMI 2500 with no till shanks for heavier ground that gets sealed off with water and/or some shallow compaction. Looking to go 35 to 40 inches at a 45 degree angle and am told it does not have to be every year. The ones I see leave very little mark in the ground with the no till shanks and if you have to get more aggressive you can use the parobolic shanks. Comments on DMI and deep tilling for these purposes. TIA Dave
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32895</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to No till/ and Deep tiller
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32896</link>
         <description>Name: John
Email: 
I would leave your soil alone.  After three or four years, worms and freezing will provide root channels.  I had supper with Ray Rawson a couple years ago and asked him the same question.  He told me that after 5 years of no-till I was past the need for his slot till.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32896</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to No till/ and Deep tiller
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32897</link>
         <description>Name: Cliff SEIA
Email: cornboy9@hotmail.com
We tried a ripper like that and if we have a good crop we would like to buy one this fall.  Compared to other &quot;no-till&quot; rippers I&#039;ve seen the DMI seems to do the most shattering with the least surface disturbance.  With our soils we feel a ripper like this is almost a must to get us to the point where the ground will take care of itself from continous no-till.  We have some low OM soils with high clay content that 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32897</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to No till/ and Deep tiller
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32898</link>
         <description>Name: Cliff SEIA
Email: cornboy9@hotmail.com
Sorry about cutting the above posting short but I was saying that alot of our ground gets very hard and with out deep tillage turns rock hard yet we wan&#039;t to no-till it since it is HEL so a ripper like this will make a big difference.  
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32898</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>knife roller
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32900</link>
         <description>Name: Stefan MuuijtjensSubject: knife roller
Email: S.J.A.muijtjens@dlv.nl
Hello,
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32900</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to knife roller
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32901</link>
         <description>Name: John W
Email: 
Knife rolls are sharp edged snapping rolls used on a corn(maize) combine heads that cut and crimp the corn stalk as it is pulled through the stripper plates. I believe they were first used for harvesting sweet corn which is harvest when the stalks are still green, juicy and slippery. Oxbo, a manufacturer of vegetable harvesting equipment still makes &quot;Pixall&quot; knife rolls as does some of the regular corn head makers. The Oxbo site has a good picture of &quot;knife rolls&quot;.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32901</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Grain Carts and Tire Size
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32903</link>
         <description>Name: Dan MillerSubject: Grain Carts and Tire Size
Email: abmillerfarms@hotmail.com
I would like to upgrade our two grain carts for next year as soon as harvest is over and farm sales or equipment dealer inventory reductions start.  What do others feel is too large a cart to where soil structure is damaged due to excessive weight?  Also what kind of tire configurations work the best for others, duals, large flotation, narrow singles?  We currently have 500 Bu carts with 24.5 x 32 tires running down 30&quot; rows.  Since we cart everything to bins, I would like to increase capacity. 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32903</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>GP cph unit to loosen hard surface.
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32905</link>
         <description>Name: Andrew JonesSubject: GP cph unit to loosen hard surface.
Email: stbrghjonsey@xtra.co.nz
Hello there from Marlborough ,New Zealand.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32905</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to GP cph unit to loosen hard surface.
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32906</link>
         <description>Name: Larry
Email: 
Well I have a GP notill CPH drill and also grow barley. But I&#039;m in Canada so my condtions are probably a little different. 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32906</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>corn reels for down corn
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32908</link>
         <description>Name: S.L. BradySubject: corn reels for down corn
Email: mandybrady@netzero.net
     I on the east coast facing hurricane Isabel,possibly also facing 300 acre of down corn. Has anyone used one, do they help, waste of money, or better thing out there. Praying it won&#039;t be that bad, but want to know just in case it happens.                                                                                                                                                                                                       Thanks S.L.Brady
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32908</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to corn reels for down corn
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32909</link>
         <description>Name: smash
Email: ashfarm1@juno.com
I have never ran a reel. Ran a corn saver for a few days, and hated it. It has cones on the out side and drag chains over the middel rows. Then switched to a Rolla cone or Roller cone. It works real good in less you have grass or a morning glory problem. It also is not in the way if the corn is standing good. Sevral guys had reels around hear last year and got along fine. Only complant I heard was they were in the way in standing corn. I think I have some pictures of the Rolla Cone if you would want to see them drop me an e-mail.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32909</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to corn reels for down corn
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32910</link>
         <description>Name: MWolpert
Email: grain@earth1.net
Purchased a reel several years ago.  I figured it paid for itself the first forty acres.  I didn&#039;t feel it was in the way that much in standing corn.  There was an article in either Farm Journal or Sucessful Farming within the last several months on reels. Hope you don&#039;t need it.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32910</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to corn reels for down corn
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32911</link>
         <description>Name: Tanman 
Email: bkwoodford@hotmail.com
I know Isabel was very damaging and deadly in many places. I hope everything survived fine. We have had down corn the last couple of years due to stalk rots. The corn reels are a good investment if corn is leaning or on the ground. They will get into the upright corn but more than that helps to keep the combine going. All the dirt going thru the combine is hard on augers, ect. Be carefull is the main thing. Days are long and it is frustrating.  
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32911</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>suzuki samurai spray rig
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32913</link>
         <description>Name: Jerry CosperSubject: suzuki samurai spray rig
Email: cosperj@yahoo.com
I read in the no-till farmer pub several months ago about using a suzuki samurai to pull a spray rig. I would like to hear from someone with experience with one of these rigs. How was your sammy set up and what kind of rig did you pull? I hear that you can reduce the gearing in these and essentially they become a small tractor.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32913</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to suzuki samurai spray rig
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32914</link>
         <description>Name: Cliff Neubauer
Email: cornboy9@hotmail.com
I have had a Samuria for almost 4 years now although I don&#039;t have a sprayer for it, at least not yet because I think the sprayer setup would work pretty good but I&#039;ve been concerned about crop clearance and post spraying.  The Samuria&#039;s have a 5 speed transmission with a 2 speed transfer case and lock out hubs just like a full size truck would.  In low 4wd these things will pull an unbelievable amount and lower gears are available for things such as rock crawling.  There are several places that specialize in aftermarket off road upgrades for them that are fairly cheap compared to other vehicles.  For no-till spraying I think a Samuria pulling a 250 gallon sprayer would be unbeatable by any comercial rig in wet conditions as the Samurias will almost walk on water.  One place that builds the sprayers for them is J&amp;M Inovations but I haven&#039;t been able to find a website for them.  
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32914</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Flexicoil 8000 series for sale
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32916</link>
         <description>Name: RichardSubject: Flexicoil 8000 series for sale
Email: hotdic@hotmail.com
I have a FLexicoil 8000 series with a 1330 aircart for sale in the UK.  The unit was on field evaluation for two seasons and covered a total of 900 acres.  The unit worked well in most conditions but was too large for the typical English field.  
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32916</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Flexicoil 8000 series for sale
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32918</link>
         <description>Name: RichardSubject: Flexicoil 8000 series for sale
Email: hotdic@hotmail.com
I have a FLexicoil 8000 series with a 1330 aircart for sale in the UK.  The unit was on field evaluation for two seasons and covered a total of 900 acres.  The unit worked well in most conditions but was too large for the typical English field.  
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32918</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>J&amp;M Mini Floater
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32920</link>
         <description>Name: Warren E. ClarkSubject: J&amp;M Mini Floater
Email: editor@tecagrinews.com
I did a search at www.google.com and came up with this reference for you on the J&amp;M Mini Floater. If this is the same piece of equipment, perhaps the section from the article and their contact info could be posted by the NTF editors. 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32920</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Sunflower drills
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32922</link>
         <description>Name: WayneSubject: Sunflower drills
Email: 
                                                                  What are your experiences drilling soybeans into cornstalks with a Sunflower drill?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32922</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Sunflower drills
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32923</link>
         <description>Name: John W
Email: 
I saw something on this page earlier about Sunflower drills and it seems the owner was happy with the drill. I questioned the effectiveness of the plastic strips used to control seed trench blowout, and was told they work well. Can&#039;t find the old posts in the archives. You should try asking this question over on Suc. Farming&#039;s Machinery Talk site as there is more traffic there. Also www.newagtalk.com
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32923</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Marliss no-till grain drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32925</link>
         <description>Name: red-n-greenSubject: Marliss no-till grain drill
Email: JayRouton@msn.com
Hello all, this is my first time to post on this board and need some pros and cons of a Marliss grain drill. I am looking at a 15&#039; with caddy to overseed my bermuda hay fields in the fall and maybe do a little custom work. Can anyone tell me good and bad points of Marliss drills? This is a new venture for me because I only raise hay and am pretty ignorant about grain drills. So all help is greatly appreciated.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32925</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Marliss no-till grain drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32926</link>
         <description>Name: Joe
Email: bigjoe444@yahoo.com
I had an older drill on a caddy and was never impressed. It had and outdated metering system and lousy depth control and covering.  If you want to do custom work, your customers will deserve a much better job than it will do.  Sorry to be so negative, but there really are other products that will do a better job.  Good luck.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32926</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>That new Polaris Ranger TM??
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32928</link>
         <description>Name: vande772000Subject: That new Polaris Ranger TM??
Email: vande772000@yahoo.com
Has anyone heard about the new Polaris Ranger Task Master? They say it has a tighter turning radius that's great for hauling feed, great traction and mobility in the field, and a really smooth ride. Check it out at: &lt;http://ranger.polarisindustries.com/ranger/features.aspx?ModelID=93FDF26F-37EA-4F4D-82CB-2D5E4BB8015A&gt;
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32928</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>JD 60 to 90 series drill opener
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32930</link>
         <description>Name: DaveSubject: JD 60 to 90 series drill opener
Email: david.poisson@gdcanada.com
Hi,
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32930</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to JD 60 to 90 series drill opener
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32931</link>
         <description>Name: John W
Email: 
Dave, since you have gotten no answers here or on MT I will venture a guess that the cost is around $90 per opener. Seems like I heard that number somewhere. Have you checked with your dealer?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32931</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to JD 60 to 90 series drill opener
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32932</link>
         <description>Name: Ken
Email: kenwestrich@hotmail.com
85.29/kit. kit includes 1 left and 1 right boot seed tubes,and residue shields for depth control handle.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32932</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>dolly wheels or not??
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32934</link>
         <description>Name: dwyerSubject: dolly wheels or not??
Email: farmer3@mnsi.net
Wondering how many of you with deere 750/1560 or 1590&#039;s run with the caster/ dolley wheels? Have them on mine now but thinking of going 2 pt. Pros and cons would be appreciated  
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32934</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to dolly wheels or not??
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32935</link>
         <description>Name: david darnall
Email: 
I ran a 750 for a friend a few years ago.  It was in sandy soils and I got the tractor stuck in ground that was dry simply because the dolly wheels pushed the sand up in front of them.  The tractor was a JD 4850 2wd.  I would think the same thing could happen if you found a wet spot.  I did not use the drill enough to make any other observations.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32935</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to dolly wheels or not??
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32936</link>
         <description>Name: Grasseed
Email: 
I like the semi-mount on the 2 point as it transfers a fair amount of weight to the tractor giving it more traction.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32936</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to dolly wheels or not??
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32937</link>
         <description>Name: Dave
Email: 
Have the 2pt hitch on a 90 hp MFWD. Works great!
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32937</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to dolly wheels or not??
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32938</link>
         <description>Name: Kevin
Email: kdreyer@wcta.net
I have the dolley wheels on mine. They come in handy if you get in a wet spot and can&#039;t get out with the drill hooked up. Pull the pin, drive the tractor out, hook a chain to the hitch and pull it out.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32938</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>planter attachment
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32940</link>
         <description>Name: Ray McCormickSubject: planter attachment
Email: mccfarms@wvc.net
I need to throw up a small ridge to plant on with my planter. Every year the small depressions left with the row cleaner is death on seed germination in flat river bottom soils in super saturated conditions. Needs to go on JD planter, 16 row, with fert. units. I can use a JD 9400 to pull it so power is not an issue.Help me I&#039;m drowning! Ray
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32940</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Brillion Zone Building
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32942</link>
         <description>Name: William GuentherSubject: Brillion Zone Building
Email: wguenth1@bigred.unl.edu
I was wondering if any one has any experience with this at all. I have heard alot about it lately, especially since the drought this year showed farmers all of their tillage pans. 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32942</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>NH3 coulter for a JD 750 
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32944</link>
         <description>Name: LawrenceSubject: NH3 coulter for a JD 750 
Email: lluiken@telusplanet.net
Has any one added NH3 coulter to side band on a JD 750 drill
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32944</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to NH3 coulter for a JD 750 
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32945</link>
         <description>Name: John W
Email: 
Local grower seeded all of their winter wheat with a new 1895 air drill and put NH3 down the regular JD notill drill openers on the front row. The N ends up being between every other seed row. They ran the NH3 openers 3.5 inches deep. I was rather dubious, but they went for it. This lash up would be similar to a 750 with a fertilizer box and openers up front.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32945</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>1560 seeding rate oats
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32947</link>
         <description>Name: danielSubject: 1560 seeding rate oats
Email: barrierfarm@cs.com
wanted info on seeding rate 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32947</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to 1560 seeding rate oats
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32948</link>
         <description>Name: Gerald J.
Email: geraldj@exists
Its not hard to calibrate the drill. The scales are close, but remember they are based on volume, not weight. What I did with a much older drill was to jack up one drive wheel, and put a paper sack under one tube. I put some seed in the hopper above that tube and turned the drive wheel ten turns. I figured out from the spacing and number of openers how that related to oats per acre (and alfalfa and even corn one year), weighed the seed (or counted the corn) and adjusted until it did what I wanted.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32948</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>GP Turbotill uses
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32950</link>
         <description>Name: bradcSubject: GP Turbotill uses
Email: 
We have just purchaced a GP turbotill and wanting to see if anyone likes  the tool and how they are using it.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32950</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>G.P. notill air drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32952</link>
         <description>Name: JeffSubject: G.P. notill air drill
Email: 
I&#039;ve been considering replacing my 20&#039; GP drill with a used 30&#039;GP notill air drill, but I don&#039;t see any for sale.Is there a better website with some listed or were none sold origonally.I prefer a bit of tillage as compared to the others. Jeff 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32952</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to G.P. notill air drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32954</link>
         <description></description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32954</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title> CIH Gauge Tires On 750?
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32956</link>
         <description>Name: JohnSubject:  CIH Gauge Tires On 750?
Email: jbarjhoofer@juno.com
All this talk of CIH gauge wheel tires on JD planters. Just wondering if your also putting them on 750 &amp; 1500 series drills. Seems to me most of the compaction on those units would come from the angled blade not gauge wheel tires  
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32956</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to  CIH Gauge Tires On 750?
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32957</link>
         <description>Name: David Moeller
Email: moellerag@se-iowa.net
John,
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32957</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>no-till bean drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32959</link>
         <description>Name: DaveSubject: no-till bean drill
Email: dmensink@earthlink.net
 We are looking at purchasing a no-till bean drill; we presently are using a Krause 5250 15&#039; and are happy but need something bigger now. does anyone have experience with the JD 1690? or anything else that someone is really impressed with? thanks
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32959</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to no-till bean drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32960</link>
         <description>Name: Cliff SEIA
Email: cornboy9@hotmail.com
If you are just going to use it for beans I would give the CIH 5500 Soybean Special a good look.  They have the CIH Early Riser planter units on 15&quot; spacings, we had a 5400 which was a 15&#039; version of the 30&#039; 5500 and it would plant into any conditions and still get a good stand.  There are alot of 750s in our area and I wouldn&#039;t have traded our 5400 for one for any amount of money.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32960</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to no-till bean drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32961</link>
         <description>Name: Jeffery
Email: 
Any amount of money?  I bet you could come up with a figure.  750 works perfectly here, no other drill comes close.  The CIH drills are non-existant in our area because of poor placement in tough conditions.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32961</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to no-till bean drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32962</link>
         <description>Name: Cliff SEIA
Email: cornboy9@hotmail.com
I&#039;ve ran our 5400 SS right across the fence from neighbor&#039;s running 750s and when the conditions got bad is when the 5400 put the 750s to shame.  I have yet to see a condition where the 5400 will not do a near perfect job of seed placement and seed to soil contact where the 750 just slaps the seed in the ground.  
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32962</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to no-till bean drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32963</link>
         <description>Name: Jeffery
Email: 
What bad conditions?  Mud?  Hard ground?  Sand?  Tons of weeds on the ground?  Rough ground?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32963</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to no-till bean drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32964</link>
         <description>Name: Cliff SEIA
Email: cornboy9@hotmail.com
We have ran our 5400 in every condition from standing water to rock hard sod, no-tilled into food plots taller than the tractor hood and ran on ground so rough I couldn&#039;t run over 4 mph.  Keep in mind the 5400 I am talking about is the Soybean Special model that has Early Riser planter units on 15&quot; spacings and not the regular 5400 drill.  In the seven years we ran our 5400 we never had to replant a single acre of beans we drilled with it and we drilled alot of beans when it would have taken a track tractor to pull your 750 across the field.  I do realize there are some conditions when the 750 might do a better job than the 5400 but I have yet to see them around here and I will also say that the 750 is a big step up over most no-till drills.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32964</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Tell me about case ih wheels on JD 
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32966</link>
         <description>Name: JoeSubject: Tell me about case ih wheels on JD 
Email: bigjoe444@yahoo.com
I have been reading old posts and see that many recommend case ih depth wheels over the JD.  What is different in the case ih or why is there such a noticable advantage.  I have a 10-30 JD 7000 that has six Martin cleaners, 4 Dawn Cleaners, dawn curved tine closing wheels and Rebounders in the trench.  I thought I had it whipped but now all you experts are talking about the case ih wheels! Help out a poor old farmboy and let me in on the secret...also send money if so inclined!!!!!  :-) TIA, Joe
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32966</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Tell me about case ih wheels on JD 
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32967</link>
         <description>Name: Craig
Email: 
CIH wheels are the best thing you can do for your planter in no till.  It completely eliminates soil compaction.  I&#039;ve got them on my JD.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32967</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>seed singulation
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32969</link>
         <description>Name: rickSubject: seed singulation
Email: beylal@svtv.com
we plant corn on 22.5 in. spacings with sdx 30 equipped with case ih cyclo drums. we also have rebounders on row units. it seems we still have a problem with seed spacing and or placement. drum pressure runs at 7 to 10. also have plugging in wetter soils or turns. wondering if anyone has experienced any of these problems and any solutions. answers greatly appreciated as tech help from cih is limited thanks rick
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32969</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to seed singulation
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32970</link>
         <description>Name: Scott
Email: sbicknell@one-eleven.net
I could not get the rebounders to work in strip tillage. They actually made spacing and depth placement worse in wet soils than without them.  In dry(er) soil I couldn&#039;t figure they did anything other than drag a little super dry loose dirt down in furrow.  
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32970</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>SDX no till drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32972</link>
         <description>Name: JeffSubject: SDX no till drill
Email: 
How is this machine working out? I know they came with a 40&#039; drill now after only having a 30&#039; drill. Is there much difference between the CaseIH and the Deere machine?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32972</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to SDX no till drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32973</link>
         <description>Name: John W
Email: 
It is almost impossible to get any comments about the SDX drill anywhere. Apparently they have not sold too many of these drills.  I did stumble into Deeres salesman page one day and they discussed the differences between the two, and of course they said Deeres 1890 was better. Main differences that I noted is the SDX is much heavier, larger 20 or 22&quot; disc, the disk angle is different and I think the SDX is a compound/double angle, SDX uses springs for downpressure vs Deere constant hydrualic. The SDX seed firming wheel is narrower, and the gage wheel is further back on the SDX. 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32973</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>field cultivator
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32975</link>
         <description>Name: DougSubject: field cultivator
Email: DTLLSwaim@AOL.com
  We have no-tilled for 21 years and we didn&#039;t get our fields very level when we started. Is there any harm to earthworm populations or soil structure if we would run a field cultivator across our fields in the spring. Would we lose our years of no-till.     Doug
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32975</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to field cultivator
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32976</link>
         <description>Name: Jim Boak
Email: salford@mdirect.net
No, you would not lose your no-till gains provided that you didn&#039;t work excessivley deep and didn&#039;t make unecessary multiple passes. Earthworms are not killed by tillage equipment. The vertical burrowing worm for example; has 5 hearts and when cut in 1/2 both halves can re-grow. Worm populations decline in an aggressive tillage regiem mostly because their food supply and moisture supply is reduced by excessive tillage. The same goes for structure - you can improve structure with timely appropriate tillage and destroy soil structure with untimely, excessive tillage or using an incorrect tillage tool.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32976</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to field cultivator
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32977</link>
         <description>Name: Jim Boak
Email: salford@mdirect.net
No, you would not lose your no-till gains provided that you didn&#039;t work excessivley deep and didn&#039;t make unecessary multiple passes. Earthworms are not killed by tillage equipment. The vertical burrowing worm for example; has 5 hearts and when cut in 1/2 both halves can re-grow. Worm populations decline in an aggressive tillage regiem mostly because their food supply and moisture supply is reduced by excessive tillage. The same goes for structure - you can improve structure with timely appropriate tillage and destroy soil structure with untimely, excessive tillage or using an incorrect tillage tool.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32977</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>strip till and fertilizer
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32979</link>
         <description>Name: DavidSubject: strip till and fertilizer
Email: ksfarms@bluevalley.net
I am fall applying nh3 and 10-34-0 in the row with a DMI strip-tiller about 5&quot; deep.  I am putting on the recommended rates according to the soil tests.  Would there be any reason or benefit to dribble on 2 to 4 gallon on the seed at planting time.  Keep in mind I am planting on the strip where the soil is a bit warmer.  Thank you.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32979</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to strip till and fertilizer
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32980</link>
         <description>Name: David
Email: 
I am reffering to the liquid 10-34-0 in my previous question.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32980</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to strip till and fertilizer
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32981</link>
         <description>Name: David
Email: 
I am reffering to the liquid 10-34-0 in my previous question.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32981</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to strip till and fertilizer
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32982</link>
         <description>Name: David
Email: 
I am reffering to the liquid 10-34-0 in my previous question.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32982</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to strip till and fertilizer
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32983</link>
         <description>Name: David
Email: 
I am reffering to the liquid 10-34-0 in my previous question.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32983</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to strip till and fertilizer
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32984</link>
         <description>Name: David
Email: 
I am reffering to the liquid 10-34-0 in my previous question.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32984</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to strip till and fertilizer
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32985</link>
         <description>Name: David
Email: 
I am reffering to the liquid 10-34-0 in my previous question.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32985</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>52' BLUMHART PICKUP SPRAYER FOR SALE
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32987</link>
         <description>Name: JERRY L. MORGENSTERNSubject: 52&#039; BLUMHART PICKUP SPRAYER FOR SALE
Email: JLMORGENSTERN@CARROLLSWEB.COM
I WOULD LIKE TO SELL A 52&#039; BLUMHART SLIDE-IN PICKUP SPRAYER WITH 500 GAL. POLY TANK, MICRO-TRAK CONTROLLER, NEW HONDA MOTOR &amp; PUMP, FOAM MARKER, &amp; BALL VALVES.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32987</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to 52' BLUMHART PICKUP SPRAYER FOR SALE
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32988</link>
         <description>Name: joe
Email: bigjoe444@yahoo.com
Jerry, Go to agonline.com  someone there was looking for a p/u sprayer.  see machinery marketplace.   how much are u wanting for it?  good luck
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32988</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to 52' BLUMHART PICKUP SPRAYER FOR SALE
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32989</link>
         <description>Name: joe
Email: bigjoe444@yahoo.com
Jerry, Go to agonline.com  someone there was looking for a p/u sprayer.  see machinery marketplace.   how much are u wanting for it?  good luck
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32989</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to 52' BLUMHART PICKUP SPRAYER FOR SALE
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32990</link>
         <description>Name: joe
Email: bigjoe444@yahoo.com
Jerry, Go to agonline.com  someone there was looking for a p/u sprayer.  see machinery marketplace.   how much are u wanting for it?  good luck
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32990</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>NO-TILL DRILL OR AIR SEEDER WANTED
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32993</link>
         <description>Name: JERRY L. MORGENSTERNSubject: NO-TILL DRILL OR AIR SEEDER WANTED
Email: JLMORGENSTERN@CARROLLSWEB.COM
I WOULD LIKE TO BUY A 40&#039; OR LARGER NO-TILL DRILL OR AIR SEEDER. 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32993</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>ClearOut 41 Plus
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32995</link>
         <description>Name: ShannonSubject: ClearOut 41 Plus
Email: shnauss@telus.net
ClearOut 41 Plus fully loaded glyphosate delivered to the farm at $15
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32995</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>disk to coulter rig
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32997</link>
         <description>Name: MarvinSubject: disk to coulter rig
Email: wiedersk@grm.net
Does anyone know the name of someone who can tell me exactly how to convert an old disk to a coulter type rig .I seen an article in a fam magazine a year or two ago ,sure wish I would have saved it ,that is what I am wanting to do . Thanks in advance .
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32997</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to disk to coulter rig
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32998</link>
         <description>Name: wims
Email: 
If you do a seach on farm show magizine they will have it there.   On the board www.agriculture.com    machinery talk and individaul asked the same question.  I am curious also.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32998</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to disk to coulter rig
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32999</link>
         <description>Name: Jim Boak
Email: salford@mdirect.net
Depends on which disc frame but usually field cultivator frames or chisel plows are easier to convert into coulter conditioners. The most important element in the performance of these tools is not the disc or coulter - the harrow system is the most important part. 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32999</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to disk to coulter rig
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post33000</link>
         <description>Name: Jim Boak
Email: salford@mdirect.net
Depends on which disc frame but usually field cultivator frames or chisel plows are easier to convert into coulter conditioners. The most important element in the performance of these tools is not the disc or coulter - the harrow system is the most important part. 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:19 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">33000</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to White 5100
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32509</link>
         <description>Name: William
Email: 
We use a 5100 on the three point to plant soybeans in 20s. last year was the first time we tried planting no-till with it. We adjusted the standard downpressure springs to the highest setting and it seemed to work. as for closing the trench the person we bought the planter from used a homemade device were a single narrow wheel presses the seed in the trench before the press wheel. it works good enough but we ara going to get 6100 units in the very near future for they are just better for no-till.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32509</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to White 5100
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32510</link>
         <description>Name: J Hackney
Email: jhackney@farmtrack.com
Do the homemade wheels work like the seed firmers?  I have been thinking that using spading wheels (like from Martin) in place of the closing wheels would pull the trench together, but I&#039;m not sure.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32510</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to White 5100
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32511</link>
         <description>Name: william
Email: 
We do not run coulters on our soybean planter since we no-till only a few acres of beans. My father really doesn&#039;t care for them never seemed to work for him. We do use residue managers on our corn planter.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32511</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to White 5100
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32512</link>
         <description>Name: william
Email: 
I also found the new 8000 units for $1500 each
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32512</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to White 5100
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32513</link>
         <description>Name: Joe 
Email: vermunt@hay.net
I think that your best would be to try the Martin Spading closing wheels . Have not used them myself , but am wanting to try them .They bolt on to the original closing wheel brackets in front of the single press wheel . 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32513</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to White 5100
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32514</link>
         <description>Name: Alber
Email: aarmand@core.com
We run 5100 planters (one for corn and one with a splitter bar for beans) and get along fine no-tilling everything. Our planters are equipted with the original white firming closing wheels that came in the no-till special package. I like them and think they do a good job in south eastern Indiana. I would check with dealers or salvage yards to find some used ones.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32514</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to White 5100
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32515</link>
         <description>Name: Ed Winkle
Email: ewinkle@voyager.net
If you are pushing planting dates and farming marginal soils, I think you will like the benefits of popup fertilizer.  I apply it in-furrow, ortho type, mixed with liquid insecticide thru the Keeton seedfirmer tubes.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32515</guid>
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         <title>Reply to White 5100
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32516</link>
         <description>Name: Christopher
Email: farmin25@hotmail.com
We have a 5100 White set up for no-till.  We have 8-wave no-till coulters, Martin Row Cleaners, and Martin spaded closing wheels.  The single press wheel doesn&#039;t close well so we took it off and ran a bolt through conduit in place of the wheel.  We were running liquid fertilizer through Y-not rebounders but they kept plugging with mud and the seed tube would get plugged off.  We ended up dribbling the fertilizer out of a tube tied to the conduit where the press wheel was.  It worked pretty well in the mud, we never got to plant in any ideal conditions this spring.  Good luck
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32516</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Flexicoil 8000 drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32518</link>
         <description>Name: TimSubject: Flexicoil 8000 drill
Email: tnbecker@stellarnet.com
Am looking at purchasing a flexicoil 8000 no-till drill with barton openers.  Does anyone have any experience with this drill or the openers.  Would appreciate any feedback good or bad.  Will be using for small grains, and soybeans.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32518</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Flexicoil 8000 drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32519</link>
         <description>Name: John
Email: 
I have used the 8100 with a 2340 air cart for corn and beans.  I band up to 600# of fertilizer with the FSO opener and then move the FSO for 15&quot; beans.  I have been pleased with the meter accuracy and overall performanc.  I have no experiance with the Barton opener.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32519</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Flexicoil 8000 drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32520</link>
         <description>Name: mike in sw mn
Email: mhewitt@rconnect.com
I have no experience but was looking at buying some barton openers.  I talked to a Flexicoil rep that did help quite a bit.  He claimed the barton was the best opener available for strictly hardcore no-till but not to good for conventional or minimum till conditions.  That big tire along side the disc is nothing more than a scraper wheel, has nothing to do with depth, that is done with the packing wheel.  I am now getting some FSO units.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32520</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Flexicoil 8000 drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32521</link>
         <description>Name: Donn E. Branton
Email: Brantonfarm@2ki.net
We have a 2340 aircart/8000 tool bar with Barton double shoot openers. We have them set on 7.5 centers and plant a variety of crops with this set up. Have had very good success with this as seed/fert. placement is unbelievable. Meter accuracy is also beyond belief as compared too what we had seen prior. The openers leave little soil disturbance so as in some conditions it is difficult to find the furrow. This is truely a no-till opener although we have also experienced it in conv-till conditions. In our soil conditions here in NY we get about 1000 acres out of the primary discs before they need replacing , and more out of the secondary disc. We have been asked that if we had it to do over again (purchase the same unit) would we? &quot;YES&quot;
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32521</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Zip Seeder
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32523</link>
         <description>Name: CharlesSubject: Zip Seeder
Email: hobbyhorse@comcast.net
Just purchased an older no-till called a Zip Seeder.  On the side it reads Midland Manufacturing Co. in Mississippi, a division of Northcote.  Would like to know if anyone else has a Zip Seeder like this or can give me any information on it.  Would like to have a book or at least know where to order parts for it.  Have tried &quot;searching&quot; on internet for key words but no information available.  
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32523</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Zip Seeder
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32524</link>
         <description>Name: Hope I help
Email: 
Some one posted a message a haybarn.com about a Zip Seeder on 4/20/01 you mgiht try there for he posted his email address hope this helps.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32524</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>pasture interseeding
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32526</link>
         <description>Name: NeilSubject: pasture interseeding
Email: neil@btinet.net
I would like to interseed my somewhat rocky native pasture in dry central North Dakota with milk vetch, clover or alfalfa or a combimnation of all three. Any suggestions as to what kind of an impliment and seeding rate to use this April would be greatly appreciated. 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32526</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to pasture interseeding
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32527</link>
         <description>Name: John W
Email: 
A Truax drill would be one of the best for your situation. Interseeding can be tricky if you have much of a stand of grass. Grass does not like more plants to compete with.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32527</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to pasture interseeding
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32528</link>
         <description>Name: Farmer Dave
Email: 
I only did this twenty years ago, but as I remember, I pastured it off close in the fall and in the spring went in in  with an interseeder. Put down 18# alfalfa and came back in two days with a spraying of paraquat to kill everything. Had a good stand and let it set till late summer when I pastured it lightly. Did have a problem with slow growth at the start and found P &amp; K were very low. Put on a maintenance load and it came right out of it. I pastured and cut hay off part of the 17 acres for about 7 years with good production. Not bad for a worn out blue grass pasture. Later on I had some problems with canadian thistles. Alfalfa finally gave out and it went back to bluegrass again. Hope this helps.     
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32528</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to pasture interseeding
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32529</link>
         <description>Name: Wayne Oosterhoff
Email: wayneoATkwicDOTcom
Graze down the grass real hard to weaken it. Then frost seed your legumes. Graze off the grasses early to keep competition low. Then let legumes strengthen and adopt a regular rotation favoring the legumes with proper rest periods.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32529</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Buying a new sprayer
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32531</link>
         <description>Name: John BSubject: Buying a new sprayer
Email: wildcat1@wheatstate.com
I&#039;m looking to replace my 10 year old Great Plains sprayer that has a 45 ft. boom and 500 gallon tank with a 60 ft. boom and a 1000 or 1500 gal tank sprayer. 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32531</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Buying a new sprayer
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32532</link>
         <description>Name: shucks
Email: 
John,You owe it to yourself to check out a Nitro sprayer at www.nitrosprayer.com/ I have a brother who works in their engineering department and have been through their factory.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32532</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Buying a new sprayer
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32533</link>
         <description>Name: chris zenker 
Email: 
i just bought a brandt
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32533</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Buying a new sprayer
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32534</link>
         <description>Name: JB
Email: wildcat1@wheatstate.com
I just bought a Schaben 8500 sprayer, 60 ft. booms....tips on 15 inch centers.  They are one well made, well designed sprayer I have found.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32534</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Buying a new sprayer
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32535</link>
         <description>Name: G stephens
Email: stephensfarm@tds.net
It is great to know you have found a sprayer. Be sure to let us know how it is working. I always like to hear a successful farming story. 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32535</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Buying a new sprayer
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32536</link>
         <description>Name: chris zenker 
Email: zenkerchris@hotmail.com
i just bought a brandt
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32536</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>jd 7000 planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32538</link>
         <description>Name: S.L. BradySubject: jd 7000 planter
Email: mandybrady@netzero.net
  Can I take a 6x30 and make a 5x30
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32538</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to jd 7000 planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32539</link>
         <description>Name: Gerald J.
Email: geraldj@isunet.net
The planter units are easily removed. Loosen two u-bolts and slide off the hex drive shaft. But there&#039;s no provision for moving the wheels side to side, they are fixed in position. 5 row will be asymmetrical. There&#039;s a gear box in the way of putting a planter unit in the middle. I was just looking at making a 5x30 out of a 4x38 and that center gear box gets in the way. So I&#039;ll cut and weld to move the wheels in and make it 4x30.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32539</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to jd 7000 planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32540</link>
         <description>Name: Joe
Email: 
Well now, thats a very good question. And I have a very good answer. No, not for this year you can&#039;t. Not nearly enough time. My suggestion would be a 4 x 38&quot; planter, modify the hitch to get a Kinze pusher unit in the center up front. Modify the tire spacing and space the other 4 JD units accordingly. The 6 row planter has 4 tires to work around on the backside. Most of the 5 x 30 planters i&#039;ve seen have been in the south and they have been independent unit planters, ie. JD # 71&#039;s and such, not in no-till but for cotton and nuts,,,,,,,,,,,,Good luck,,,,,Joe
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32540</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to jd 7000 planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32541</link>
         <description>Name: Gerald J.
Email: geraldj@isunet.net
I just bought a 4x38. I plan to make it 4x30. It will take cutting and welding to move the wheels in from 78&quot; on centers to 60&quot;. The wheel frame and the planter units would conflict if I only moved the planter units in..
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32541</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Is Haybuster good drill. Discs?
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32543</link>
         <description>Name: DakotaSubject: Is Haybuster good drill. Discs?
Email: lhelstad@nccray.com
Iam looking for a reasonable set of older notill drills to seed about 300 acres mostly notill, maybe some summerfallow,mostly small grains maybe some peas. Would a haybuster 107 work pretty fair for this? Also most drills I have found have poor discs any advice on buying them. Anybody have any for sale? Thanks
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32543</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Is Haybuster good drill. Discs?
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32544</link>
         <description>Name: John W
Email: 
The Haybuster is sure not the state of the art in no-till drills but I am sure it will get the job done just fine. They are still being made and you can buy new parts and manuals for them. Also about 1/3 of the way down this page is a post made on January 2 by a guy selling disc for Haybuster drills for a &quot;good&quot; price and he has a link posted. Dura Tech is the name of the company now making the Haybuster drills.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32544</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Acra plant seed opener
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32546</link>
         <description>Name: Ronald HabeggerSubject: Acra plant seed opener
Email: ronmarshahab@adamswells.com
I have acra plant seed openers on my planter in front of the seed tube. I am not referring to the opener blades but the shoe between the blade and the seed tube. My question is whether they are recommended for no-till.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32546</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Wanted Kinze Fertilizer Openers
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32548</link>
         <description>Name: DanSubject: Wanted Kinze Fertilizer Openers
Email: dcottor@centurytel.net
Wanted 4+, heavy duty single disc, frame mounted, Kinze fertilizer openers.  dcottor@centurytel.net
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32548</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Zone Building in Eastern South Dakota
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32550</link>
         <description>Name: SteveSubject: Zone Building in Eastern South Dakota
Email: steve_dani1101@hotmail.com
Has anyone tried Zone Building? And if so does it help? I would love to hear from anyone on this subject.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32550</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Dawn or Martin trash wheels?
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32552</link>
         <description>Name: pullpinSubject: Dawn or Martin trash wheels?
Email: 
I have yetter trash wheels now and don&#039;t like them. My Dad has martin 125d&#039;s and likes them, but say they can be a bit agressive in loose soil. I like the look of the Dawn wheels with the screw adjustment. I know you would have more adjustments to make with the Dawn wheels, but I think you can fine tune the Dawns. Martin has a pin adjust wheel also, but that would be like my yetters now. I don&#039;t know anyone who has the dawn wheels, so I am looking for some feedback. 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32552</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Dawn or Martin trash wheels?
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32553</link>
         <description>Name: Mike
Email: grain@earth1.net
I had Dawn on my planter when I got it.  I didn&#039;t like the way it moved too much soil.  I bought the Martin floating brackets and mounted the dawn wheels on it and like it well.  Using the dawn wheels saved me half the cost of a new Martin setup.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32553</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Dawn closing wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32555</link>
         <description>Name: Maury McLeanSubject: Dawn closing wheels
Email: mcleanmm@mhtc.net
We are presently using Martin closing wheels on our planter, but Dawn is making a strong case that theirs are better. Can anyone give me information?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32555</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Dawn closing wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32556</link>
         <description>Name: Stokes Custom NoTill (Dan)
Email: gdstokes@prodigy.net
Hiya Maury:
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32556</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Case IH gauge wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32558</link>
         <description>Name: John K.Subject: Case IH gauge wheels
Email: kolkman@cyg.net
What is the best way to install CaseIH gauge wheels on 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32558</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Case IH gauge wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32559</link>
         <description>Name: Albert
Email: aarmand @core.com
They will fit and work fine. I use soap for lubicant and allthread in the pilot holes to pull the wheels together. 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32559</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Case IH gauge wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32560</link>
         <description>Name: John K.
Email: 
Albert-My planter has the new plastic innner rims with
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32560</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Case IH gauge wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32561</link>
         <description>Name: Albert
Email: aarmand@core.com
I haven&#039;t tried this on any plastic rims, but I know that the Case I.H.  tires do fit very tightly on the older metal rims. I&#039;ve been told that they need to because of the shape. My method has work with the older rims. I have also heard of people using a press to put them together. You might try talking to the guys you got the tires from they may have already crossed this bridge.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32561</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Case IH gauge wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32562</link>
         <description>Name: Ed Winkle
Email: ewinkle@voyager.net
One of our good readers checked for me and found out all John Deere planter rims so far are the same.  They look too big for the CIH tire to fit but that tire can be fit on any Deere, Kinze, White and other planters I have seen so far.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32562</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Case IH gauge wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32563</link>
         <description>Name: D
Email: 
I&#039;ve had CIH tires on my planter for two years now and wouldn&#039;t take a planter into the field without them.  No matter what one or two individuals claim, CIH tires on a no till planter are a must.  Seed trench compaction will be the result if you don&#039;t use them. Those that argue against the CIH tire always have a hidden agenda.   Good luck and happy no tilling.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32563</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Case IH gauge wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32564</link>
         <description>Name: Jumping Jack
Email: 
The only thing better than adding CIH tire would to just go to the field with a CaseIH planter and not have to add all those other parts.  Those offset disc openers and Early Riser depth control make them the ideal no till planter.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32564</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Case IH gauge wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32565</link>
         <description>Name: Tim S.
Email: tesieren@iowatelecom.net
John, 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32565</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Pulling a tank behind a 950 Planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32567</link>
         <description>Name: BrentSubject: Pulling a tank behind a 950 Planter
Email: 
I bought a 1500 gal liquid fert tank and am planning to pull it behind my 12 row 950 planter.  I have the Freisen tool bar.  Has anyone done this or seen it, is the frame heavy enough?  Any comments will be greatly appriatiated.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32567</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>keetons on cotton
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32569</link>
         <description>Name: G stephensSubject: keetons on cotton
Email: stephensfarm@tds.net
I am looking for information on using keeton seed firmers to apply liq fungicide in furrow on cotton. We have experience with starter on corn, but not on cotton. Any info. in this area would be greatly appreciated.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32569</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>tires
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32571</link>
         <description>Name: BillSubject: tires
Email: 
Want to put larger front tires on my 4430 that is a loader-planter tractor to help hold front end compaction down. Saw a ad for a company that sells these tires and rims. Want fronts about the same width as back. Anybody know the name ?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32571</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>HCS system w/ thompson wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32573</link>
         <description>Name: Dave PoissonSubject: HCS system w/ thompson wheels
Email: david.poisson@gdcanada.com
Matt,
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32573</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to HCS system w/ thompson wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32574</link>
         <description>Name: matt hagny
Email: mhagny@cox.net
Dave,
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32574</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>capacity of 15' deere drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32576</link>
         <description>Name: HenrySubject: capacity of 15&#039; deere drill
Email: 
I was curious of the acreage capacity of a 15&#039; JD no-till drill. I currently have a 30&#039; Sunflower drill to drill 600-900 acres of wheat in the fall. In the spring I use an 8 row planter to put in 600-700 acres of milo and maybe a couple-hundred acres of soybeans. I was wondering if it would be feasible to get rid of these two pieces and put everything in with a 1560 or 1590 15&#039; John Deere.  One thing I would be able to do is drill over terraces which I currently can&#039;t do with the Sunflower.  Any comments or opinions are appreciated.  (NC-NW Kansas)
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32576</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to capacity of 15' deere drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32577</link>
         <description>Name: Wayne Oosterhoff
Email: 
figure on 100 acres per day
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32577</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to capacity of 15' deere drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32578</link>
         <description>Name: Kevin 
Email: 
  Henry,
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32578</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to capacity of 15' deere drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32579</link>
         <description>Name: Henry
Email: 
If you go over terraces with the sunflower, the middle box, which is offset back from the other two, tips out of the ground for just a second and leaves an 8-10 foot skip.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32579</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to capacity of 15' deere drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32580</link>
         <description>Name: Jeff
Email: 
You will be sorry if you go from a 30&#039; to a 15&#039; even though your acres are kinda out of line for a 30&#039; machine.  I use a tandem hitch 30&#039; 1560 now (basically 2 15&#039;s).  I unhooked one to do some small patches when it was wet out and I will never unhook them again.  15&#039; is a big dissappointment after using the 30&#039;.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32580</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>John Blue Piston Pump
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32582</link>
         <description>Name: Brett StallingsSubject: John Blue Piston Pump
Email: bgsdc@msn.com
I am looking for a piston style pump to run on our planter with liquid fert. If anyone has seen any I would appreciate the info. 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32582</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to John Blue Piston Pump
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32583</link>
         <description>Name: John W
Email: 
Here is their web site if your interested in a new pump or dealer name.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32583</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>200 or 250 monitor
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32585</link>
         <description>Name: AndySubject: 200 or 250 monitor
Email: Steinber@rrv.net
I am looking for a 200 or 250 monitor for a 7300 JD planter. After market brands would be ok too.  any used ones out their.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32585</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Wear on spaded closing wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32587</link>
         <description>Name: LewSubject: Wear on spaded closing wheels
Email: weisacre@direcway.com
Can anyone tell me how much wear the Martin spaded closing wheels can stand before they no longer do an effective job?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32587</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Wear on spaded closing wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32588</link>
         <description>Name: Ed Winkle
Email: ewinkle@voyager.net
That is a good question, Lew and I know you are not being a wiseacre!
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32588</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>AUSHERMAN TURBO COULTERS
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32590</link>
         <description>Name: Joe Subject: AUSHERMAN TURBO COULTERS
Email: vermunt@hay.net
Is any one using these instead of OEM wavy coulters ? Do they require less hp. Also was told they do not tend to throw out as much dirt at higher planting speeds . 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32590</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to AUSHERMAN TURBO COULTERS
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32591</link>
         <description>Name: HawkenCougar
Email: gkurwicki@charter.net
We put a set of the 18&quot; dia. turbo coulters on a 15&#039; Great Plains no-till drill last spring. After using them for one season we have not been able to detect a noticeable difference in the amount of horsepower required to pull the drill. They penetrate just as well or better and throw a little less dirt than the original 17&quot; dia., 3/4&quot; wide, 12 wave coulters that originally came with the drill. However, this no surprise as the turbo coulter is rated as being a 5/8&quot; wide coulter (if I remember correctly). Note that the local dealer only stocked the 17&quot; dia. turbo coulter and said that the 18&quot; dia. coulter would not fit our drill (&#039;96 GP 1500 w/CPH). I measured twice and was convinced otherwise so I ordered them the previous winter. They were just a couple bucks more than the 17&quot; turbo coulter. They fit just fine and it is my belief that the additional cost will be recouped because in addition to being a larger diameter they are just a slight bit heavier/thicker. If you are wondering how we like them, the next set that we put on this drill or the Deere planter for that matter will be the turbo coulter. 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32591</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Nutriplant SD
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32593</link>
         <description>Name: FredSubject: Nutriplant SD
Email: 
Has anyone ever used this product on there farm. I saw it at the farm show in Louisville and it looks very interesting.      
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32593</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Nutriplant SD
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32594</link>
         <description>Name: Carl Sandel
Email: ic64u@torchlake.com
Hi Fred-
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32594</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>GPS SPRAYER GIUDANCE
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32596</link>
         <description>Name: JUKEBOXSubject: GPS SPRAYER GIUDANCE
Email: 
I am looking to buy a system.  Any advice on which one to buy?  My fields are flat and I have very few contours.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32596</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to GPS SPRAYER GIUDANCE
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32597</link>
         <description>Name: John
Email: 
I used the AgLeader light bar last year.  It worked very well.  Straight line is easy, I had to call them several times to make the contours work.  Their tec suport is great.  
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32597</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to GPS SPRAYER GIUDANCE
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32598</link>
         <description>Name: butch
Email: butch2@hartel.net
I bought a raven last year really like it now I see it&#039;s $1000.00 cheaper this still like it. The best advice I can give is to get somthing with a lightbar you can mount 5ft or more away from where you sit. I tried the outback and just hated that box 2ft. infront of me cant focus on it and the sprayer at the same time. Also make sure you get a lightbar that can be dimmed at night and brightened in the daytime.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32598</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Looking for soybean cups for JD 7000
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32600</link>
         <description>Name: Rick G.Subject: Looking for soybean cups for JD 7000
Email: rickgthf@yahoo.com
I&#039;m looking for 6 soybean cups for JD 7000. 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32600</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Looking for soybean cups for JD 7000
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32601</link>
         <description>Name: Wayne Oosterhoff
Email: 
I&#039;ve got 7 in Ontario
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32601</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Looking for soybean cups for JD 7000
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32602</link>
         <description>Name: Rick G.
Email: rickgthf@yahoo.com
Wayne, Your e-mail address didn&#039;t come up with your message. Could you please contact me at rickgthf@yahoo.com? I am actually looking for the whole seed metering unit. TX Rick G.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32602</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Zip no-till drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32604</link>
         <description>Name: Phil KennedySubject: Zip no-till drill
Email: pkennedy@citystatebank.com
We have an old Zip no-till 4&#039; drill seeder and the calibration chart for the front small seed box is missing.  If anyone out there can help me with the small seed settings please advise.  We plan to plant deer food plots and milo with the seeder.  The seed for the deer food plots will be smaller clovers and rape type seeds. 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32604</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Zip no-till drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32605</link>
         <description>Name: Gerald J.
Email: geraldj@isunet.net
At best, a drill chart is a rough approximation to the seeding rate.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32605</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>question for matt hagny
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32607</link>
         <description>Name: herbSubject: question for matt hagny
Email: 
Are the new JD 90 series no-till openers a step forward or a step backward?  I&#039;m concerned that they direct the seed too far back and the furrow will start to close before the seed is trapped.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32607</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to question for matt hagny
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32608</link>
         <description>Name: matt hagny
Email: mhagny@cox.net
The 90-series is an improvement, or at least it gets you back to where the 50-series was for performance &amp; durability.  The most important change is the 90-series boot, which is moved ~0.75-inch rearward, but also has a reconfigured internal channel for the seed which actually drops the seed approx. 2 or 3 inches farther back.  Also, the outer part of the internal channel no longer aims seed toward the blade, which is a major improvement (before, on the 60-series, the seeds were hitting the blade and getting thrown out of the furrow).  
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32608</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to question for matt hagny
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32609</link>
         <description>Name: Big Red
Email: 
Well Matt, if the 60 series was so bad, how come I never saw you telling people to take a cutting torch to it like you regularly do the CIH planter?  Funny how you think everything is an improvement, except when it comes to the CIH planter?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32609</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to question for matt hagny
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32610</link>
         <description>Name: brad c
Email: becfarms@aol.com
You know, its interesting how you &quot;red&quot; owners get so defensive over a piece of equipment.   Why?  ALL of these planters were created to perform in lose soil not a firm, structured soil that is seen in a notill environment.   The Case IH planter has some nice features such as the offset openers,  but it isn&#039;t perfect, NONE OF THEM ARE.  
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32610</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to question for matt hagny
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32611</link>
         <description>Name: matt hagny
Email: mhagny@cox.net
We were about ready to do something drastic to cure the 60-series boot when the 90-series came along, which retrofitted (the 50-series boots wouldn&#039;t fit on the 60-series opener).  There wasn&#039;t much that could be done, short of casting or machining an entirely new boot -- no good way to change its position or the shape of the internal seed channel with mere torching or grinding, or we woulda done it.  But don&#039;t worry, we do plenty of torching on green paint when it does some good.  
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32611</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to question for matt hagny
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32612</link>
         <description>Name: Don
Email: 
Does HCS stand for Hagny Closing System or Hate Caseih Severely?  Sometimes I wonder if it isn&#039;t the later.  Mr. Hagny seems to go out of his way to trash the Cashih planter and then act like he&#039;s doing ever CIH owner a favor.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32612</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to question for matt hagny
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32613</link>
         <description></description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32613</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to question for matt hagny
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32614</link>
         <description>Name: Dave
Email: 
Matt,
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32614</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to question for matt hagny
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32615</link>
         <description>Name: matt hagny
Email: mhagny@cox.net
Well, sort of.  Deere has a kit, but the price keeps changing, as well as what&#039;s included.  It was around $40/row last I knew.  You have to replace the steel tube above the boot as well as the boot itself.  Otherwise it just bolts on.  Note that you have to install the leaf spring *before* you insert the bolt, as it is impossible to drive the leaf spring in after the boot is bolted in place, like you could on the 50- and 60-series.  Yet another design flaw.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32615</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to question for matt hagny
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32616</link>
         <description>Name: WG
Email: 
  I thought this message board was to share ideas about how to help farmers who are having problems or just have questions about No-Till farming. What I have just read sounded like that was being hampered by some. I have never used any product of HCS and I do not have a green or red planter so I am just a by-stander. 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32616</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to question for matt hagny
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32617</link>
         <description>Name: Carl Sandel
Email: ic64u@torchlake.com
Amen Brother!!
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32617</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to question for matt hagny
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32618</link>
         <description>Name: Proud CIH man
Email: 
Hey, some of us are sick and tired of Matt the mouth constantly and I mean constantly bashing our hard earned planter.  If YOU don&#039;t like the truth being told about Matt Hagny, then don&#039;t read it.  I feel we have a right to defend our planting decisions.  This shouldn&#039;t be a one way street where Matt can tell people to take a cutting torch to anything he doesn&#039;t like and not get any feedback.  If he can&#039;t take the heat, then he should be quiet.  Any I won&#039;t buy any HCS attachments because of it.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32618</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to question for matt hagny
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32619</link>
         <description>Name: WG
Email: 
 Why do farmers get so furious when someone says that the machine they purchased has, in one persons opinion, a flaw in it?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32619</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to question for matt hagny
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32620</link>
         <description>Name: Proud CIH man
Email: 
Matt Hagny has advocated taking a cutting torch to all CIh Planters.  Matt has continually groused about CIH gauge wheels, even on CIH planters.  Matt has stated CIH should be dragging kicking and screaming into the 21st century.  Lots of other things too.  This is just my opinion of Hagny, and hey, it&#039;s not pretty, but its true.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32620</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to question for matt hagny
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32621</link>
         <description>Name: Don
Email: 
Matt Hagny has said that a no till planter has to be set up exactly as he advocated or it wouldnt work.  Look back at the archieves.  He claimed no planter will work with the Caseih gauge wheels, include a Caseih planter.  Not long ago he admitted posting a remark about wanting to use a cutting torche on the Caseih planter.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32621</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to question for matt hagny
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32622</link>
         <description>Name: get over it
Email: 
Why is it you CaseIH guys get so defensive? YOU can run down other products but as soon as someone suggests a change to your beloved Case.....you go ballistic. By the way, there is no more IH. Get over it.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32622</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to question for matt hagny
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32623</link>
         <description></description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32623</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to question for matt hagny
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32624</link>
         <description>Name: Dave
Email: 
I am one that appreciates the information &amp; ideas that Matt, notillr, etc bring to this forum.  Sometimes I may not agree or sometimes it may not apply to my situation/conditions, So Be It. Lets keep personal attacks out of this forum, PLEASE.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32624</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>IH gauge wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32626</link>
         <description>Name: DaveSubject: IH gauge wheels
Email: 
Was wondering if anybody as ran them on a planter other than IH,with coulters. We had them on our Kinze last year and really saw a difference in beans because we had the IH on the back and the Kinze on the front row units. Now this year we are adding coulters and was wondering if it will loosen to much dirt with the IH gauge wheels.                                Thanks in advance.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32626</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to IH gauge wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32627</link>
         <description>Name: Albert
Email: aarmand@core.com
 We have used them with cutters on our white 5100 planter and haven&#039;t had any problems. Seems they let the looser soil move and make it easier to cover the seed in marginal conditions
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32627</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Keetons
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32629</link>
         <description>Name: DaveSubject: Keetons
Email: 
 I know it was talked about on here last spring about how dirt would build up on keetons and how you could trim them down to help solve the problem. Does anybody have the measurements on how to trim then any help would be welcome.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32629</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Keetons
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32630</link>
         <description>Name: Problem solver
Email: 
Take appropriate tool, remove. That&#039;s what I did with mine. End of problem.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32630</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Keetons
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32631</link>
         <description>Name: brad c
Email: becfarms@aol.com
Before you start whacking on the Keetons, you might want to take a look at your planter.  Make sure everything is set correctly and isn&#039;t wore out.  We started to cut ours last year and glad we didn&#039;t.  This spring I went through and completely readjusted everything and had NO problems and we were planting in mud, literally, w/clay contents 70% or better.  
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         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32631</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Keetons
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32632</link>
         <description>Name: Ed Winkle
Email: ewinkle@voyager.net
This will give you the proper angle that many farmers find works best on the Keeton.  The better your soil structure and the longer you are no-tilling, the more likely you will run into the buildup problem.  Many planters in this area have that soil line right on the full seedfirmer and you can almost cut them off with no measuring, I have a picture of that.  I was taught how to cut them and can purchase them cut from David Moeller at mollerag@se-iowa.net or cut them yourself.  We demonstrated how to do this at the National NoTillage Conference in Cincinnati two years ago and I have photos of the cut Keetons if you will email me at the above address but we are very busy right now with some clients 50-80% complete with corn planting and 20-30% soybean planting, possibly a record for our area.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32632</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Cover crops vs. using a ripper 
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32634</link>
         <description>Name: gregSubject: Cover crops vs. using a ripper 
Email: jakebird@santel.net
Has anyone used a cover crop with a large tap root to relieve shallow compaction.  I have a problem with some soils that have a compacted layer at about 10 inches deep.  I have deep tilled this ground in the past but it doesn&#039;t seem to solve the problem.  Last year in an extreme drought here in south central SD i could dig down with a spade then chip through the hard pan and find moisture.  I am considering breaking the corn/bean rotation and throwing some wheat in and following the wheat with some type of cover crop for both organic matter and to relieve some of this soil tension.  I&#039;ve heard that cowpeas can do this.  Is there a certain variety that i need, or is there any other type of crop i can use for this?  Thanks for any help
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         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32634</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Cover crops vs. using a ripper 
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32635</link>
         <description></description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32635</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Cover crops vs. using a ripper 
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32636</link>
         <description></description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32636</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Cover crops vs. using a ripper 
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32637</link>
         <description></description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32637</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Cover crops vs. using a ripper 
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32638</link>
         <description></description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32638</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Kinze vs. Great plains system
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32640</link>
         <description>Name: MaxSubject: Kinze vs. Great plains system
Email: jerryreneejones
Would like to hear from Great Plains corn and bean farmer who used the new drill to plant both. Am considering this vs Kinze interplant to consolidate and better ustilize equipment. I now have 12 row deere 7000 and 24 foot great plains notill for 1200 acres,  aging equipment less manpower for more efficiecy.  Repairs i feel kinze might win out but refills gplains might win any comment appreciated. Presently use 9-18-9 but not necessayr.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32640</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Kinze vs. Great plains system
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32641</link>
         <description>Name: Smash
Email: ashfarm1@juno.com
Great Plains is putting out some test plots this year, to compare there system to others. Kinze is in there, they say Kinze is there biggest compation. I would wait to see the results.
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         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32641</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Kinze vs. Great plains system
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32642</link>
         <description>Name: researcher
Email: research.com
The Kinze interplant system is outselling every other planting system and the reason is simply seed placement and yield.  The advantage is so great that it does not matter how much faster you can plant or fill with any other system.  Wish our firm had figured this out first.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32642</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Kinze vs. Great plains system
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32643</link>
         <description>Name: Max
Email: 
Thanks for the imput.  I fell also the maintenanace on the Kinze is cheaper than the drill also depth control could be more precise. Also fertilizer and horspower less than the 10 ton drill. Must convince brother thou.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32643</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Kinze vs Great Plains twin row corn
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32645</link>
         <description>Name: maxSubject: Kinze vs Great Plains twin row corn
Email: jerryreneejones@aol
Am contemplating planting corn and beans in 10 or 15 inch
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32645</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Strip Till Corn on Corn
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32647</link>
         <description>Name: John Subject: Strip Till Corn on Corn
Email: 
Does anyone have any experience or insights strip tilling corn on corn?  Trying to get a newly rented farm into two large parcels instead of little multiple fields within a field the landowner had, this is my only option if sticking with strip till.  thanks
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32647</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Strip Till Corn on Corn
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32648</link>
         <description>Name: Stu
Email: 
John: I strip till some second year corn each season with out problems.Some fields were high population BT varieties.Straight, square fields help.I run the strip rig between old rows.If you get a knife runing directly on an old row(point rows can be a problem)you&#039;ll have &quot;dog houses&quot;Working the ground just at the point rows will help in a field that has crooked edges.It also helps to have as many stalks standing as possible(we try to keep carts ,floaters,and combine off the rows)...My rig is an older Progressive 12 row tool bar on a cart, mole knives,coulter,&amp;18&quot; knotched cover disks.I have been amazed how much trash a rig will run in.Good luck!
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32648</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>planter caddies
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32650</link>
         <description>Name: MarkSubject: planter caddies
Email: Steinber@rrv.net
Has anyone used  Elk Creek welding inc.  3 point implement carriers?  How did they work, any weaknesses.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32650</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>JD 7200 single disc
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32652</link>
         <description>Name: MarcSubject: JD 7200 single disc
Email: dcharing@aol.com
I bought a 7200 conservation planter to try and no-till my corn. The 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32652</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to JD 7200 single disc
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32653</link>
         <description>Name: Ed Winkle
Email: ewinkle@voyager.net
We run it an inch off the row for each 10 gallons of 28 we are putting on as a general thumb rule.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32653</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to JD 7200 single disc
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32654</link>
         <description>Name: Ed Winkle
Email: ewinkle@voyager.net
&quot;Marc&#039;s single disc question on no-till talk would seem to pertain to early versions of the single disc that had only a tube and not a side knife?  Deere offers a side knife now. Dave Moeller has a new side knife and mount for the JD that is impossible to plug or drag. A neighbor helped develop it.Setup works silky smooth.  There are two holes in the single disc mount for running extended or retracted.  The nut on the spring fine tunes running position not down pressure.  There are two holes behind the depth tire, forward and rearward, the rearward works best in no-till to limit sidewall throwout.The holes on the side opposite of the depth tire control opener depth, top hole is the deepest setting.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32654</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to JD 7200 single disc
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32655</link>
         <description>Name: Marc
Email: dcharing@aol.com
thanks for the info, I guess I need to get the side knives and mount 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32655</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to JD 7200 single disc
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32656</link>
         <description>Name: Shep Douglas
Email: shep@csdenterprise.com
Am having troubles with this same opener in notill.  Straw and dirt build up between scraper and disc and freeze up the disc causing it to skid.  Have tried about everything, any ideas.  Also, what happens if you pull the gauge wheel assembly off this opener.  thanks
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32656</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to JD 7200 single disc
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32657</link>
         <description>Name: Ed Winkle
Email: ewinkle@voyager.net
Under 7200 single disc, the sideknife is mounted too far foward and wedges its way into the soil. Soil can pack between the knife and the disc. Dave Moeller, near Keota, Iowa has a bracket to set back the sideknife about 3 inches. With the backhalf of the sideknife now behind the disc, blade plugging is a thing of the past.  Dave also has his own knife available. With a Moeller sideknife and setback bracket installed single discs will run nonstop. Daves number is 319-698-4005.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32657</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>GPS guidance systems
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32659</link>
         <description>Name: David DarnallSubject: GPS guidance systems
Email: daviddarnall1@excite.com
What systems are you using and would recommend?  We are considering one and would like to avoid buying one we will not like.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32659</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to GPS guidance systems
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32660</link>
         <description>Name: Mike Mc
Email: mtmccln@ruraltel.net
I have an Ag leader PF3000 yield monitor and bought the light bar which is made by Trimble to provide guidance through the yield monitor.  It works great.  Also have heard good reports about the Tee-Jet and Raven.  Have heard mixed reports about the Outback.  Look for one that uses the WAAS corection signal.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32660</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Case IH - SDX opener
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32662</link>
         <description>Name: Mike McSubject: Case IH - SDX opener
Email: mtmccln@ruraltel.net
I would like to see comments about this opener. Would like especially to hear Matt Hagny&#039;s comments.  I value your opinion even if this unit is red!  Thanks
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         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32662</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>UFT no-till drills
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32664</link>
         <description>Name: &quot;greenswede&quot;Subject: UFT no-till drills
Email: nfswede@mepotelco.net
Hi
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32664</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Hagny closers dont work
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32666</link>
         <description>Name: Ray-sdSubject: Hagny closers dont work
Email: 
I bought a used planter with Hagny closers on and am find out that they do a poor job of closing where the ground is hard, such as wet or formerly wet areas.  The plastic fingers just ride over the top and do nothing.  I tried adding weight for penetration and broke a hub on one of the spike wheels.  I intend to replace this system next year with something that works, but can anyone give some advice so I can get this years corn planted?  Im not happy with the seed trench sitting wide open.  The dealer sorta warned me when I bought the planter these things arent the best.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32666</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Hagny closers dont work
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32667</link>
         <description>Name: matt hagny
Email: mhagny@cox.net
Ray,
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32667</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Hagny closers dont work
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32668</link>
         <description>Name: Don
Email: 
So, now the truth comes out.  You have asphalt like conditions in Kansas and blasted Caseih based a very small, extreme condition.  We in the corn belt have soil that gets mellower every year of no tilling, so be fair and admit that the conditions don&#039;t exist in most places that make you hate Caseih so much.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32668</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Hagny closers dont work
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32669</link>
         <description>Name: Ray-sd
Email: 
Your advice didnt work.  Neither did your closers.  I contacted the previous owner, who still had the JD factory closers and put those on.  Nothing could get those high angled wheels of yours into the ground. Too much surface area and not enough downpressure.  I dont know what Im putting on next year but it wont be Hagny
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32669</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Hagny closers dont work
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32670</link>
         <description>Name: Iowa no tiller
Email: 
I would try Martin closers next year.  I&#039;ve had Martins for 4 years and like them.  I was never convinced Hagneys would work and I think you proved it.  I&#039;ve got CIH wheels on my JD planter and am satisfied, so I think Matt Hagney has zero credibility.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32670</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Hagny closers dont work
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32671</link>
         <description>Name: brad c
Email: becfarms@aol.com
Ray,
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32671</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Hagny closers dont work
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32672</link>
         <description>Name: Ray-sd
Email: 
Thanks for the offer.  The previous owner is also interested in buying them back and I may need to keep some of the JD closing parts.  Im also considering a different planter for next year.  Im struggling trying to get the corn in with all this rain, so this is the least of my problems.  We ll see what happens next winter.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32672</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Hagny closers dont work
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32673</link>
         <description>Name: Don
Email: 
A couple things look really odd here.  This man posts that he has a problem with your set up Matt and you post a 5 paragraph response.  Only two deal with the problem.  One paragraph says your system works because you designed it to work, and one says you had trouble breaking hubs, so you changed it.  (You don&#039;t tell him how to solve the breaking problem, unless you think he&#039;s going to buy new closers from you).
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32673</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Hagny closers dont work
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32674</link>
         <description>Name: Dave
Email: 
I can&#039;t believe that the Matt Hagny bashing keeps coming.  Is that the only thing that you do all day long, wait for Matt to post something and then analyse it to death and then respond with personal attacks.  You are offering nothing to this site by doing this and actually are lowering the credibility of it.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32674</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Hagny closers dont work
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32675</link>
         <description>Name: Don
Email: 
As I&#039;ve posted before, Matt Hagny started this whole thing.  If you look in the Equipment Archieves, you&#039;ll see that history has recorded who fired the first shot.  And yes, it&#039;s getting old, but I don&#039;t see Matt Hagny backing down either.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32675</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Hagny closers dont work
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32676</link>
         <description>Name: Grasseed
Email: 
NT.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32676</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Hagny closers dont work
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32677</link>
         <description>Name: Wheeler
Email: 
These are all problems that have plagued the HCS in the past and have been discussed here.  I believe him.  What&#039;s the matter, you thought the WonderChild was perfect?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32677</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Hagny closers dont work
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32678</link>
         <description>Name: Big Red
Email: 
Here&#039;s your solution, and it comes from Matt Hagny himself.  Take a cutting torch to them!  This seems like an appropriate place for his words of wisdom!  (in case you missed it earlier, Matt suggested this to someone else who owned a &quot;competing&quot; product)  Good luck, you&#039;ll need it.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32678</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Hagny closers dont work
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32679</link>
         <description></description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32679</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>CaseIH
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32681</link>
         <description>Name: Marty VistoSubject: CaseIH
Email: mvisto@drtel.net
I just wanted to add a little information and background to CaseIH.  My dad&#039;s uncle and cousins have been an International and then a CaseIH dealer since the 1930&#039;s.  I myself have worked two years in seeding and combine service at one of their dealerships and have attended several CaseIH sponsored factory training seminars on planters, drills and combines.  We have almost exclusively used IH and CaseIH products on our farm and I currently have two mfwd CaseIH Magnum tractors, a CaseIH combine, a CaseIH SDX drill, and a Flexicoil aircart which is now sold as the CaseIH ADX air cart.  I have ran an International 800 planter and after that a CaseIH 900 Cyclo planter for 9 years.  
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32681</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to CaseIH
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32682</link>
         <description>Name: John
Email: 
Marty, 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32682</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to CaseIH
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32683</link>
         <description>Name: your Guelph neighbor
Email: 
You left out a couple of details Marty.  The Visto family hasn&#039;t been nearly as pro red since Meyer took over the family dealerships.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32683</guid>
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         <title>Reply to CaseIH
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32684</link>
         <description>Name: Marty Visto
Email: mvisto@drtel.net
I cannot speak for my Dad&#039;s cousins who owned the dealerships about their attitude about CaseIH, but everything I own except for the Kinze planter is now sold under the CNH corporation.  Of this equipment, all of it was purchased at the local CaseIH dealerships including a good deal of it from Meyer Equipment.  As I said, I prefer to buy CaseIH over all other brands first.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32684</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to CaseIH
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32685</link>
         <description>Name: Cliff SEIA
Email: cornboy9@hotmail.com
We have not had the problems you state with our IH 800 planters or the CIH tires on our 7200 but the last thing I will do is say those problems don&#039;t exist and I will take your word for it.  I think you made an excelent post.  We run a 12 row 7200 with the Martin system for corn and a 24 row 15&quot; 800 for beans and they both have their place although in our conditions the Early Riser unit has alot of advantages.  I think I have learned more on these forums from people I disagree with than people I agree with and I like reading other people&#039;s experiences.  Reading these forums is just like anything else, you have to sort out what will work for you and use it and keep what you don&#039;t think will work in the back of your head because sometime it may be just the thing you need.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32685</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to CaseIH
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32686</link>
         <description>Name: CIH900
Email: 
Cliff, I&#039;ve had the same luck with my CIH 900 as you have with the 800.  Just a good planter that does it&#039;s job.  I&#039;ve seen you posting over on the Successful Farming site about your CIH planter and how you set up your own narrow row bean planter.  They sure a good planter and I can&#039;t believe the way some people put them down.  I think it&#039;s more a color thing then anything else.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32686</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>16 row 22 inch rows planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32688</link>
         <description>Name: markSubject: 16 row 22 inch rows planter
Email: 
Anyone know of a used one someplace.  John Deere air preferred.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32688</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>JD1770, coulter troubles
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32690</link>
         <description>Name: Dietrich KastensSubject: JD1770, coulter troubles
Email: dietrich@kastensinc.com
I&#039;ve got a JD 1770 (16R), set up with 13-wave coulters in front of the double disks.  Because of mud thrown by the coulter costing me about 3 hours a day, I decided to pull them all off today.  The planter has stayed 100% clean with them off and seed depth is very good.  Additionally, I have yet to see any hair-pinning.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32690</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to JD1770, coulter troubles
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32691</link>
         <description>Name: GT
Email: thompsonfarms@crosspaths.net
Same problem with a 1760. Pulled ours off but it hasn&#039;t quit raining long enough to try it out. I have trash whippers on the planter also. Will the ground be sticky enough after they pass to pickup on the planter?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32691</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to JD1770, coulter troubles
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32692</link>
         <description>Name: Jon Nelson
Email: nelly1-2@nesitic.com
We went through that with our 1760.  Worse, the row unit caused considerable hairpinning because of the design.  They are not a good planter in mud I discovered.  I switched to a CIH 1200 ASM and have had better luck.  Hairpinning is gone and mud has been tolerable so far.  Have martin whippers and closers on it.  Be interesting to see how it handles really muddy conditions this week.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32692</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Case wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32694</link>
         <description>Name: CraigSubject: Case wheels
Email: c.g.ardiess@yahoo.com
I have never understood the fuss over Case wheels on a different planter.  This is my 3rd season with them on a JD 1760 and my stands have been excellant.  What corn is up this year looks good also.  I would say that those people that like Case wheels will continue to use them, and those that don&#039;t shouldn&#039;t care what we farm with, so why run Case down.  Some of you people think we have to farm like you do, or it&#039;s wrong.  My next planter my very well be a 1200 asm.  Thank you-Craig.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32694</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Case wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32695</link>
         <description>Name: tyler volden
Email: 
Craig, I&#039;ve notice similar results.  My first corn is just coming up and talk about uniform.  I put CIH tires on a year ago a 7200 deere last year.  Dad started no tilling 4 years ago.  After all the work we went through to get those tires on the planter, it had better work.  Wish we had done it sooner.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32695</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>900 cyclo planter setup for no till
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32697</link>
         <description>Name: patrickSubject: 900 cyclo planter setup for no till
Email: pa @net.com
just brought a new to me 6 row 900 IH planter.  Whats the minimium I need to do to it for no tilling.  Dont want to get fancy, just to be able to notil in burned off hay sod.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32697</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to 900 cyclo planter setup for no till
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32698</link>
         <description>Name: Big Red
Email: 
Congratulations, you&#039;ve bought what is probably one of the best no till planters around.  You don&#039;t need much.  Normally I would suggest trash whippers, but you can get by without in sod.  One thing you need is a very good closing system.  I absulutely love my Martin spading wheels.  They do a good job of closing even in hard, dry ground like sod.  They run about $80 a row and you just remove the stock closing disk and put on the spading wheel.  Keeton seed firmers are also a plus, but you could probably get by if you had to.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32698</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to 900 cyclo planter setup for no till
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32699</link>
         <description></description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32699</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to 900 cyclo planter setup for no till
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32700</link>
         <description>Name: Case 800
Email: 
 I love my J&amp;S serrated closing disk!
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32700</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to 900 cyclo planter setup for no till
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32701</link>
         <description>Name: Ed Winkle
Email: ewinkle@voyager.net
I would like to see it and the crop it plants.  I have seen the Martin adaptation and the JS Ag Innovations and they both look good.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32701</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to 900 cyclo planter setup for no till
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32702</link>
         <description>Name: Warren
Email: wwlivingston@hotmail.com
My 900 may not be the best, but so far I like it.  Pair of Yetter 13 wave coulters mounted on 7x7 toolbar on front of planter.  Coulters are set 3 inches to each side of openers, and staggered front to back for trash clearance.  (Down pressure springs backed clear off.)  Dawn Trashwheels set just low enough to turn (really like the screw adjustment), Rebounders and J&amp;S notched closer (running backwards, seem to plug less).  Excellent results in everything from dried out sod to mud holes you could barely walk through.  However, Dad does just as good, if not better in some conditons, with an 800 without the &quot;toys&quot;!!!
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32702</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to 900 cyclo planter setup for no till
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32703</link>
         <description>Name: Just another boy.
Email: 
Are you saying that real men don&#039;t need toys?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32703</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>opening disc question
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32705</link>
         <description>Name: KurtSubject: opening disc question
Email: 
Which is better the JD/Kinze/White Tru-V style straight across opening disc or the CIH offset style.  I am planning my corn planter for next year while waiting for it to dry out.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32705</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Deere notill drill seed firming wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32707</link>
         <description>Name: John WSubject: Deere notill drill seed firming wheels
Email: mkjc(at*)turbonet.com
Wet soil conditions is causing soil to stick to the seed firming wheels and gum up the works on a 1890 no-till drill.  Any quick answers. Should the wheels just be removed in these conditions?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32707</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Deere notill drill seed firming wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32708</link>
         <description>Name: HawkenCougar
Email: 
My experience in southern Illinois soils is that when it is wet enough for soil to stick to the seed firming wheels and gum up a planter or a drill then it is too wet to be in the field. This is probably not the answer you are looking for. The answer you need is for it to dry up some more before you continue. 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32708</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Deere notill drill seed firming wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32709</link>
         <description>Name: Ed Winkle
Email: ewinkle@voyager.net
You might try that.  Martin&#039;s spading wheel works best for many.  Case IH gauge wheel tires might lift the wall enough to prevent too much compaction also.  That drill was designed to plant into very hard dry ground, not the soft conditions we have right now.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32709</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Deere notill drill seed firming wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32710</link>
         <description>Name: matt hagny
Email: mhagny@cox.net
are you running the stock Deere ones, or SDX firming wheels?  The SDX wheels have dramatically less tendency to accumulate mud.  It is certainly worth the effort to switch them out.  
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32710</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Deere notill drill seed firming wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32711</link>
         <description>Name: Iowa no-tiller
Email: 
I don&#039;t think you can universally say that one thing works better then another.  Different things work in different conditions and I doubt you&#039;ve walked behind this man&#039;s drill to see this, Matt.  Just because you prefer one system over another doesn&#039;t mean it works everywhere.  Stock Deere wheels work fine in some places and depending on conditions, nothing might work.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32711</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Deere notill drill seed firming wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32712</link>
         <description>Name: John W
Email: 
Thanks for all the suggestions, but problem only occured on the last fields wheat stubble and managed to get them seeded. Soil stays damp and sticky under the unworked straw when you have a few light showers. Found out someone else is trying the SDX wheels so will see how he made out. Seeding winter wheat will  be a different story, it will probably dry and hard.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32712</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Deere notill drill seed firming wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32713</link>
         <description>Name: Greg
Email: 
I don&#039;t think you can universally say that one thing works better then another. Different things work in different conditions and I doubt you&#039;ve walked behind this man&#039;s drill to see this, Iowa, no-tiller. Just because you prefer CIH gauge wheels over JD stock wheels doesn&#039;t mean it works everywhere. And what effect do the gauge wheels have on the effectiveness of the press wheel on the JD 1890 no-till drill anyways. 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32713</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Deere notill drill seed firming wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32714</link>
         <description>Name: Jim
Email: 
CIH lifts and all the others compact more!  Less pressing versus more pressing!!!
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32714</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Deere notill drill seed firming wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32715</link>
         <description>Name: Greg
Email: 
I am not discounting that this may be true in the area under where the gauge wheel runs.  The press wheel on the JD no-till drill runs directly over the seed trench (&lt;1 inch) not where the gauge wheel runs.  Hopefully the seed is at the bottom of the trench versus in the gaude wheel path.  The press wheel does all the seed-to soil contact for the drill not the gauge wheel.  The original question dealt with the press wheel and not the gauge wheel, that&#039;s all I was trying to point out.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32715</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>1860-1890 seed boots
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32717</link>
         <description>Name: Ron NeisesSubject: 1860-1890 seed boots
Email: ronmn@oldwiz.net
Has anyone tried to run 1860 seed boots or 1890 seed boots in the top hole after the cutting blade gets wore down to 17 inches ?  The 1860 seed tube rubs on the hub that holds the cutting blade when the boot is in the top hole and the 1890 seed boot wedges between the hub and the cutting blade when positioned in the top hole(even if you grind a bevel on the hub as John Deere sugests).   
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32717</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to 1860-1890 seed boots
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32718</link>
         <description>Name: GJ Swanson
Email: exactrix@exactrix.com
This a problem with the design.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32718</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to 1860-1890 seed boots
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32719</link>
         <description>Name: Dave
Email: 
I believe that if the boots were updated to the 90 series that Deere recommended an update to the 90 series seed tubes as well.  Not sure if this is your problem though. At 17&quot; you should still have a bit of life left in them as Deere recommends changing at 16&quot;
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32719</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to 1860-1890 seed boots
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32720</link>
         <description>Name: Ron Neises
Email: ronmn@oldwiz.net
The problem with the 90 series boot is when you put it in the top hole it wedges between the hub and the blade even if you grind the bevel on the hub which deere recomends.  I have talked to the deere rep. about this and he said that they have tested the 90 series boot in the top hole without any problems.  Then I asked for the documentation that deere had actually tested the 90 series boot in the top hole and he told me that they had none.  So I asked if that ment that they really had no experience with that boot in the top hole and he said yes because they document everything that they do.  My blades are at 17 inches and all I want is a boot that will work in the top hole.  I don&#039;t want to spend the money for the 90 series boots if they will not work in the top hole.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32720</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to 1860-1890 seed boots
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32721</link>
         <description>Name: Dave
Email: ? for Matt Hagny...
Matt Hagny has a bit of experience on these JD drills...maybe he can help answer your question?   
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32721</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to 1860-1890 seed boots
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32722</link>
         <description>Name: matt hagny
Email: mhagny@cox.net
While I know of many 60-series drills that have gone to the 90-series boots, I don&#039;t know of anyone who&#039;s tried moving them to the top hole.  Most everyone &#039;here&#039; replaces blades fairly often and never has reason to go to the top hole, or never gets around to moving the boot.  If the blade is down to 17-inch diameter, it is time to replace it.  Running them after the bevel is gone (below 17&quot; dia.) causes more hairpinning, takes more downpressure just to keep them in the soil, and increases draft.  
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32722</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Haybuster/Duratech or Crustbuster drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32724</link>
         <description>Name: JohnSubject: Haybuster/Duratech or Crustbuster drill
Email: john32070@earthlink.net
Looking like things might change here to where we&#039;d go all no-til. I&#039;m still looking at a 20ft model of both of these, but both have their good and bad points. 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32724</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Haybuster/Duratech or Crustbuster drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32725</link>
         <description>Name: Ed Winkle
Email: ewinkle@voyager.net
You said it well.  The biggest problem for me is the way seed is metered in the Crust Buster as I use humus inoculant, T-22 and MolySoyAlive on soybeans and T-22 on all grass seeds.  That system will not meter that and clogs terribly.  I like the drill other than that but that just eliminates it for me.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32725</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Haybuster/Duratech or Crustbuster drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32726</link>
         <description>Name: John
Email: john32070@earthlink.net
Thanks Ed. Can you tell me how the Haybuster did in terms of getting in the ground? Is the 300lbs of pressure enough? I&#039;d get the ballast barrels (2 55 gallon drums) if I got one for added weight. 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32726</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Haybuster/Duratech or Crustbuster drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32727</link>
         <description>Name: Ed Winkle
Email: ewinkle@voyager.net
We  had to use the barrels in 1995 and it paid off as we got the seed into the ground and covered and it rained enough to make a decent crop, otherwise we would have lost one.  I hate down pressure but you have to use it in some situations like the non drill and fluff drills.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Reply to Haybuster/Duratech or Crustbuster drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32728</link>
         <description>Name: Dave
Email: 
Ed,
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32728</guid>
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         <title>Reply to Haybuster/Duratech or Crustbuster drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32729</link>
         <description>Name: Larry
Email: 
How do  them Haybuster type  drills with  work in heavy trash condtions. I would think you would have a lot of hair pinning problems. I think they would be fine if you baled your straw off or going into sod.   
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         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Reply to Haybuster/Duratech or Crustbuster drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32730</link>
         <description>Name: John W
Email: 
Check out the new Sunflower drills. They use HD sharpened double disc openers with patented &quot;soil control devices&quot; along side each disc to control soil blow out and to move soil back over the seed. They also have a hinged press wheel that follows better if you have to go on the contour or turn with the drill in the ground. I have not seen one in operation, but it looks good and all reports I have seen have been positive.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Reply to Haybuster/Duratech or Crustbuster drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32731</link>
         <description>Name: Larry
Email: lcgitzel@telusplanet.net
John I ordered a set of those soil control deflectors that sunflower puts on their drills. Morris uses the sunflower double disc opener on thier xpress airdrill. I got it through Morris as it was much cheaper. Not much to it but it is built sturdy. It looks like it would deffinitely
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Reply to Haybuster/Duratech or Crustbuster drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32732</link>
         <description>Name: John W
Email: mkjc@turbonet.com
Larry
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32732</guid>
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         <title>Reply to Haybuster/Duratech or Crustbuster drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32733</link>
         <description>Name: Larry
Email: 
Not sure what is better the high disturbance coulter up front making a wide trench with this drill or like I&#039;m trying to do now. Using a low disturbance coulter just cutting the ground and trying these soil control devices. The coulters don&#039;t throw up dirt to speak of.  I try and run the coulter down just enough to cut through the straw good so there is no hairpinning. If the front coulter is running deeper at times in heavy trash you can still keep the double discs set shallow for seed placement.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Reply to Haybuster/Duratech or Crustbuster drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32734</link>
         <description>Name: Paul in SE NE
Email: pjasa1@unl.edu
We have a CrustBuster 4615 on 7.5-inch spacing and like it in no-till, after we added considerable weight and tilted it tail down to improve seed-to-soil contact.  (Added over 4500 pounds to a base weight of about 8000 and we need it all when the soil is dry and the residue is heavy.)  With the wobble slot metering, we plant corn, grain sorghum, soybeans, and wheat and are pleased with the stands.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Reply to Haybuster/Duratech or Crustbuster drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32735</link>
         <description>Name: Ebright
Email: harlan@trailcreekfarm.com
I purchased a 4025 CB notill drill and have planted some milo but would now like to plant a few soybeans.  I hadn&#039;t really considered the innoculant not feeding through the drill.  I don&#039;t plan on using the fungicide treatment but would you have a suggestion on the most foolproof way to avoid trouble with the innoculant?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Reply to Haybuster/Duratech or Crustbuster drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32736</link>
         <description>Name: Bob M
Email: 
I use celltech innoculant with soybeans and I mix it in the crustbuster drill and I also mix it as I load through the auger and have never had any trouble.  Once in a while if I mix it to heavy it will crust over but that is when I am using twice the suggested rate.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Reply to Haybuster/Duratech or Crustbuster drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32737</link>
         <description>Name: Kevin Reed
Email: 
  John,  
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32737</guid>
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         <title>Reply to Haybuster/Duratech or Crustbuster drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32738</link>
         <description></description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32738</guid>
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         <title>Martin spiked closers
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32740</link>
         <description>Name: DaveSubject: Martin spiked closers
Email: 
 In tough  damp conditions the closers leave the seed slot open. This is on white planter with single press wheels. Is the answer more down pressure? 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Reply to Martin spiked closers
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32741</link>
         <description>Name: Ed Winkle
Email: ewinkle@voyager.net
No, I don&#039;t use any, springs are loose, only used them once in ground I should have been in anyhow.  The planter should glide over the soil, not be pounded into it.  New double disk openers should do plenty of tillage and properly set spiked closing wheels will float and till the slot closed with crumbly soil unlike the tillage closing wheel setups.  The drag chain should do the last bit of tillage if it is dry enough or you could leave them off, but I prefer them.  The Case IH guage wheel tire will explode the sidewall and reduce compaction.  I even run the planter half full of seed and chemicals and tip toe the planter in extremely wet conditions.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Reply to Martin spiked closers
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32742</link>
         <description>Name: David Moeller
Email: moellerag@se-iowa.net
Dave,
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32742</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Would it work revisited
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32744</link>
         <description>Name: KevinSubject: Would it work revisited
Email: 
 Below I posted a message about a splitter we built with an older AC planter with 71 units. The problem with these units was that they would not close the seed slot very well in notill. We mounted a set of IH bailer teeth at a reward angle hoping to throw enough dirt into the seed slot to cover the seed for the presstire to cover with. The results are nothing short of amazing. Virtually every seed is now covered and firmed in the bottom of the trench Since these openers have no depth wheel running beside the opener the sidewall heaves up and the springs running between the opener and the presstire work the soft soil back into the trench to be firmed by the presstire. No problems with trash at all, so far, as the springs will move up enough to let any buildup pass under them. A very easy and inexpensive fix to a problem that has plauged this opener from the day it was built.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32744</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Would it work revisited
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32745</link>
         <description></description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32745</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Proper setting of martin closing wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32747</link>
         <description>Name: BradSubject: Proper setting of martin closing wheels
Email: Turnpikekid61@aol.com
I am trying to plant corn to day and fields are still a little wet.I set my martin closing wheels to 2 1/2 inches at the bottom of teeth,I called company and that is what they told me to set them at.I started planting today (I know it is late but here in north east Ohio we have had so much rain to day was first day I thought that I could go.)
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32747</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Proper setting of martin closing wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32748</link>
         <description>Name: David Moeller
Email: moellerag@se-iowa.net
Brad,
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32748</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Sidehill Planting Problem
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32750</link>
         <description>Name: Sydney &amp; Elizabeth WeaverSubject: Sidehill Planting Problem
Email: perszewski@lesspub.com
(The following question was submitted via mail by Sydney and Elizabeth Weaver of East Earl, Pa. They and the staff of No-Till Farmer would appreciate your advice on their problem.)
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32750</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Sidehill Planting Problem
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32751</link>
         <description>Name: Gerald J.
Email: geraldj@isunet.net
Perhaps tractor front three or four ribbed tires instead of the smooth implement tires.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32751</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Sidehill Planting Problem
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32752</link>
         <description>Name: John W
Email: 
Age old problem. Farm equipment does not work right on sidehills. You might consider using a large guide coulter or maybe a couple of them running down the middle of the row or rows on the planter to act as a rudder  and counteract the side forces due to gravity. Some ridge till cultivators have such guide coulters. Also FWA tractors stay on course much better than 2 wd tractors. Another approach is too hinge the closing/press wheels so they always run straight. Sunflower does this on their no-till drills. Probably the easiest way to improve things is to drag a loop of chain behind the wheels like the  Nu-Till setup uses.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32752</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Sidehill Planting Problem
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32753</link>
         <description>Name: Dave Frisch
Email: dmfx3@execpc.com
You might want to check the condition of the row unit linkage bushings and closing wheel arm pivot points for wear.  My 7000 is due for new linkage bushings, and staying centered on a side hill is tough when they are worn.  On some sandy, steeper tilled ground that I custom plant, the entire planter slides downhill and I can&#039;t do anything to keep the closing wheels over the trench.  Since the soil is loose and light, the drag chains cover the seed well in this case.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Sidehill Planting Problem
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32754</link>
         <description>Name: Russ SCPA
Email: rmclucas@pa.net
I am located in Fulton County, Pa, sidehill slip is a real  hassle here as well.  I will run a couple ideas I have used to control drift(slip).   
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         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32754</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>What's the deal with the IH gauge wheel?
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32756</link>
         <description>Name: JohnSubject: What&#039;s the deal with the IH gauge wheel?
Email: john32070@earthlink.net
alot of you go on about how people without a CaseIH planter should at least change the gauge wheels on their planter or air drills which use similar openers to the CIH gauge wheel. But yet I&#039;ve never heard exactly why? Is it bigger round (circumfrence)? Is it wider? Aside from Vantage2 fert coulters, Yetter row cleaners, and Keaton firmers, our White planter is original and has perfomed just fine in no-til without things like spaded press wheels and notched opening disks. 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to What's the deal with the IH gauge wheel?
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32757</link>
         <description>Name: Ed Winkle
Email: ewinkle@voyager.net
Please read my link:
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to What's the deal with the IH gauge wheel?
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32758</link>
         <description>Name: John
Email: john32070@earthlink.net
Ed, in the White planter brochure it shows White offers a bolt on extension to the existing gauge wheel (about 1/4 the width of the main one) that can be added though I&#039;m not sure if it&#039;s for the reason you are talking about or not. Changing them all to the IH wheel seems like a lot of $ and labor for no more than it sounds like it gains you. I&#039;m not saying it doesn&#039;t gain you, but for us if it is doing fine, leave it be. And a few adjustments on what it there standard, can make a difference as well.
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         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to What's the deal with the IH gauge wheel?
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32759</link>
         <description>Name: Craig
Email: 
John, you definetely want the CIH gauge wheels on your planter.  I&#039;ve got them on a JD planter and have noticed my stands are much better with the CIH wheels.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to What's the deal with the IH gauge wheel?
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32760</link>
         <description>Name: GT
Email: thompsonfarms@crosspaths.net
Well I&#039;m wondering what&#039;s the deal with the case I-H gauge wheels to. I put them on 4 of twelve rows on a 1760 planter and they were nothing but trouble. I have rocking depth stops and the Cases were just enough narrower it allowed the stops to rock and catch on one side laying the seed on top of the ground. Also the corn in those rows is growing sideways and then up and some of it is leafing out underground. It is only planted an inch and a quarter deep. Apparently I have something wrong but I was expecting great things and am terribly disappointed. Any advise would be greatly appreciated but at this point the Deere&#039;s will be back on next year and the Case are history 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32760</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Martin Closers
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32762</link>
         <description>Name: Lucas CriswellSubject: Martin Closers
Email: farmerboy95@hotmail
 If what I&#039;m reading is true I have mine on the right side but I have the writing on the wheel turned outward, so the numbers should be towards the slot? Because I&#039;m also having problems closing the slot!!  Espeacially in cover crops and in slightly compacted manure spreader tracks. The slot will not close ,so i put a cast wheel back on stagered just toget it to close!!  Will that flipping of the wheel HELP me!!                    thanks from WET IN PA
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         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
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      <item>
         <title>Converting 7000JD To 15in. 
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32764</link>
         <description>Name: HooferSubject: Converting 7000JD To 15in. 
Email: jbarjhoofer@aol.com
Im needing some ideas on converting a JD 7000 to 15in. rows.Willit work ? How is it done ? Where do you start. Will there be enough downpressure to operate in notill.Which frame configuration will work best Thanks
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Converting 7000JD To 15in. 
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32765</link>
         <description>Name: Gerald J.
Email: geraldj@isunet.net
The transmission and wheels interfere with row positions along the main bar. Some have considered two bars to get around those problems. That does add weight to the bar for the down pressure springs. Perhaps the added row units could be on long parallel arms. Filling seed boxes can  be a real pain with the gaps filled in with more row units.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32765</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Converting 7000JD To 15in. 
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32766</link>
         <description>Name: Big Red
Email: 
Most people use a CIH Cyclo for ultra narrow rows.  They are much easier to narrow up and IMHO, a much better planter then the old 7000 because of the offset disc design.  An 800 cyclo with clamped on units is easier to move then the 900 with welded brackets.   Just some thoughts.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Converting 7000JD To 15in. 
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32767</link>
         <description>Name: Cliff Neubauer
Email: cornboy9@hotmail.com
I think that going with the IH planter is a much better way to go for narrow row beans.  We built a 24 row 15&quot; planter out of 2 12 row 800s this spring and it worked great.  I don&#039;t think the 7000 row units will go down to 15&quot; on a single bar and if they will the lids won&#039;t fit.  The IH planter will be easier to convert, use and will do a better job.  The frame configuration will depend on how big you want to build it, on one 20&#039; or smaller that won&#039;t fold for transport I would use a double bar for better trash clearance and more room to work on it.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32767</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Converting 7000JD To 15in. 
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32768</link>
         <description>Name: Gary Gibbons
Email: tech61914@yahoo.com
Can you send me some plans on how to make a IH 800 16 row 30&#039; into a 8 row 15&#039; planter. I want to amke one thank you
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32768</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Seed bounce on JD 1560
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32770</link>
         <description>Name: JulesSubject: Seed bounce on JD 1560
Email: jwillott@sbcglobal.net
The 1560 is three years old, and not too many acres on it.But the seeds seems to be bouncing- seed depth seems to be varied more than we like. Seed packer wheel seems to be OK.Any ideas? 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32770</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Seed bounce on JD 1560
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32771</link>
         <description>Name: matt hagny
Email: mhagny@cox.net
Have you gone to the 90-series boots?  We were never happy with the placement on the 60-series drills until we went to the new boots.  It seems that the internal channel of the 60-series boot directed the seed at the blade, which then flung it out of the furrow.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32771</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Hiniker 4800 air seeder
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32773</link>
         <description>Name: MikeSubject: Hiniker 4800 air seeder
Email: mjpyle@boilermakers.net
Has anyone had any experience with the Hiniker system in no-till.  Will this system work in heavier clay soils?  Is their a better choice out there?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32773</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Hiniker 4800 air seeder
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32774</link>
         <description>Name: Mike H
Email: mherm@teknix.com
I&#039;ve heard people say that the 4800 would run in wet conditions where nothing else would.  We used the 4800 style units on a homemade toolbar with the 5800 air system.  I like the air system but don&#039;t think much of the planter units.  My experience is that it&#039;s a crude way to plant.  The problems are numerous.  We switched over to Kinze/Deere units with Rebounders to keep the airborne seeds from bouncing off the bottom of the trench.  The seed placement is far superior.  You can have trouble with trash plugging in the guage wheels if units are spaced at 15&quot; side by side.  No problem at 18&quot;, or use guage wheels from Kinze fertilizer openers.  Good luck!
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32774</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Hiniker 4800 air seeder
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32775</link>
         <description>Name: richard
Email: rlzupp@svtv.com
You say that using the Hiniker Air seeder is crude and 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32775</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Hiniker 4800 air seeder
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32776</link>
         <description>Name: dave
Email: rodi@netnitco.net
We have used the 4800 for 3 years and are pleased with the results. We do not have heavy clay soils.  I like the single disc opener and the way the soil is feathered back over the seed. We have had no trouble with plugging.  It is much more accurate than a drill and less expensive as well.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32776</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>1590, Steel or plastic gauge wheels?
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32778</link>
         <description>Name: GrasseedSubject: 1590, Steel or plastic gauge wheels?
Email: 
I am shopping for a JD 1590. What are the pro&#039;s and con&#039;s of the different gauge wheels? Will the Case IH gauge wheel tire fit on either one?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32778</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to 1590, Steel or plastic gauge wheels?
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32779</link>
         <description>Name: Jeff
Email: 
Some say the plastic will do better in tilled ground.  All I know is that mine does just fine in tilled ground anyway so the extra cost doesnt seel like its worth it.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32779</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>closing wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32781</link>
         <description>Name: TOMSubject: closing wheels
Email: suezqsmak@msn.com
Has anyone had any experince with yetter spiked closing 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32781</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to closing wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32782</link>
         <description>Name: Martins are probably better
Email: 
the yetter wheel looks pretty flimsy and most of us have never had much luck with anything yetter.  I&#039;d go with martins.  I sure like mine.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32782</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>no-till sweet corn planter search
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32784</link>
         <description>Name: RogerSubject: no-till sweet corn planter search
Email: rchaddix@brownintl.com
I am in the process of going no-till for sweet corn and would like a small one or two row planter because most of my &quot;patches&quot; are small.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32784</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to no-till sweet corn planter search
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32785</link>
         <description>Name: John W
Email: 
There are two row planters for vegetables and sweet corn  called PEQUA PLANTERS that use John Deere planter units and can be used for no-till. Contact Pequa at 717-442-4406 in Gap PA. Market Farm Implement also sells them and they have a site, www.marketfarm.com 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32785</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to no-till sweet corn planter search
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32786</link>
         <description>Name: Ed Winkle
Email: ewinkle@voyager.net
I saw those at Louisville, they look good.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32786</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>CIH 5400  w/900 row units ??
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32788</link>
         <description>Name: Bill BurgerSubject: CIH 5400  w/900 row units ??
Email: bbfarms@chartermi.net
Looking at a 1997 5400 with 900 row units.  What are the pros and cons of this set up.  It has a Yetter cart w/ markers on it, and looks very well maintained.  Never no-tilld before, thinking about starting next season.  Also....what is a good price for this unit, it looks like it need new colters on the cart, the other disk openers and closing disks look good. (I have a IH 800 Cyclo planter, so I am familiar with these units, just not the rest of the drill.)
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32788</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>white 5100 no till bean 1st time
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32790</link>
         <description>Name: Dave StarrSubject: white 5100 no till bean 1st time
Email: skatster@netins.net
I am in NW-NC Iowa. Planning on trying some no till beans into standing corn staulks next year. Have some old Yetter (i think) finger type trash whippers that interlock. I use them now when planting corn into field cultivated bean stubble and they work great. However, when I plant beans into worked corn staulks, I raise them up, otherwise, the trash wheel will pickup up a corn staulk and catch between the wheel and the frame, lock up both wheels, and start dragging, making a trench. If I no till beans into standing staulks, will I need to have these whippers up or down more agressive, or need different set up? Or need no till coulters? Or different closing wheel? Or can I just go in as is and drop the seed in just to the side of the old corn row? Then I wonder how I will get my P&amp;K deep placed? I plan on lightly discing my bean stubble in the fall (on non HEL ground) and field cultivating it in the spring for corn following beans. Too cold up here. May try strip till down the road, but elevators have 12 row units, and I am 8 row. Thanks!!
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32790</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to white 5100 no till bean 1st time
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32791</link>
         <description>Name: William Guenther
Email: wguenth1@bigred.unl.edu
Dave 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32791</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to white 5100 no till bean 1st time
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32792</link>
         <description>Name: Dave Starr
Email: 
Do you have anything out ahead of the double disc openers, like no till coulters or trash whippers? You say the 5100 works just ok. What could be better?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32792</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to white 5100 no till bean 1st time
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32793</link>
         <description>Name: William Guenther
Email: 
Dave 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32793</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>row cleaners
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32795</link>
         <description>Name: Chris CorneliusSubject: row cleaners
Email: cornelius.seeds@plantpioneer.com
We are switching to continous no-till corn.  Do we want floating row cleaners or stationary?  Are the Martins the best or Yetter?  Thanks for your help.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32795</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to row cleaners
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32796</link>
         <description>Name: Corn dog
Email: 
I certainly wouldn&#039;t get Yetters.  They are way too light to do a good job.  One of ours got bent and we had other problems.  I&#039;d get Martins myself, that&#039;s what I&#039;m using now and have good luck.  Can&#039;t help you on the floating part, I&#039;ve only had fix trash whippers, but I&#039;ve been satisfied with them.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32796</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>no till drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32799</link>
         <description>Name: peteSubject: no till drill
Email: pst@acsoffice.com
Anyone using a great plains drill to no till beans into wheat stubble and viceversa? i like jd 750 but could replace w/ great plains for about 2/3 the cost
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32799</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to no till drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32800</link>
         <description>Name: jj
Email: 
Faced with the same situation.  I have not used a GP for DC beans.  Unsure if it would do as well as a JD. JD will put them in the ground better than anything on the market.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32800</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to no till drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32801</link>
         <description>Name: David Darnall
Email: daviddarnall1@excite.com
We run a Great Plains 15&#039; no-till drill.  I am very happy with how it plants into wheat stubble.  We cut the wheat for hay and then plant either milo or soybeans into the stubble and have been successful with it.  I have only run a JD 750 over a few acres for another farmer about 6 years ago so I do not know about the JD drill.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32801</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>White 8500
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32803</link>
         <description>Name: myron kerstenSubject: White 8500
Email: Kerstencorn@cdsinet.net
We&#039;re going no till next year, beans and corn
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32803</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to White 8500
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32804</link>
         <description>Name: Ed Winkle
Email: ewinkle@voyager.net
I have been to your area and cannot recommend a better system.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32804</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to White 8500
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32805</link>
         <description>Name: Myron Kersten
Email: kerstencorn@cdsinet.net
Thanks Ed, We will contact David      Myron
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32805</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to White 8500
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32806</link>
         <description>Name: myron kersten
Email: kerstencorn@cdsinet.net
One more question on No-Till, have creek bottoms with levy protection, but do flood sometimes; do we discard the disc-chizel or deep rip or stay with straight no till. Some we inherited had been no tilled and almost impossible to farm, like asphalt::: farmed when wet I suspect. Kersten
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32806</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to White 8500
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32807</link>
         <description>Name: myron kersten
Email: kerstencorn@cdsinet.net
On fence on the press wheels on the White corn planter or the Spading closing wheels set.   We plant 2/3s more beans than corn so with the split row  12 row 30in   and 23 row 15 inch might be better to stay withthe rubber press wheels.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32807</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to White 8500
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32808</link>
         <description>Name: jerry
Email: 
  You might be interested in Schlagel closing in Indiana we used them this year .  They work in muck, clay and leave a mulch over the row made spraying smooth. I put on keetons instead of roller press wheel behind coulters and used precision meters.  But the closers were the best money I spent during this wet spring.  They cover but don&#039;t dig.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32808</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to White 8500
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32809</link>
         <description></description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32809</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>455 two section JD soybean drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32811</link>
         <description>Name: Myron KerstenSubject: 455 two section JD soybean drill
Email: kerstencorn@cdsinet.net
Have 455 JD two section drill  7.5 spacing with double JD press wheels behing. Anyone know how to set up. Have been running the 1000 lb pressure and have trouble getting stand.  Have tilled deep and shallow and no tillage, seems soybeans will swell after planted 1 inch deep and then sometimes die before sprouting.  Do springs on drill need to be adjusted?  Myron  kerstencorn@cdsinet.net
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32811</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>flexicoil sprayer
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32813</link>
         <description>Name: jerry morrisSubject: flexicoil sprayer
Email: morrisfarms@starband.net
have called area rep three times with question and have gotten no reply, any suggestions on who to contact 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32813</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to flexicoil sprayer
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32814</link>
         <description>Name: farmer
Email: 
What&#039;s the problem. Maybe someone here can help you.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32814</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to flexicoil sprayer
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32815</link>
         <description>Name: John
Email: 
I have had good results working trough my dealer.  They have a internet trouble shooting setup that takes care of most problems. They are trying to have the dealers go to the reps and not individuals.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32815</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Push vs Pull planter gauge wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32817</link>
         <description>Name: DonSubject: Push vs Pull planter gauge wheels
Email: 
There is a very interesting discussion over on agriculture.com on the machinery talk page about &quot;pull&quot; gauge wheels found on CaseIh planters compared to &quot;push&quot; wheels found on JD and Kinze.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32817</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>planter modification
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32819</link>
         <description>Name: WayneSubject: planter modification
Email: upton97@horizonview.com
 I want to make changes to my jd 7000 planter. I want to work up the ground in a strip just in front of the seed. I now have a coulter in front of the seed open disk yetter row cleaners and yetter fertilizer coulters. Has anyone added more coulters to accomplish this? 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32819</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to planter modification
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32820</link>
         <description>Name: Jerry
Email: 
What I would do is add Martin spading wheels to do a little tillage after it is planted.  You have enough action up front I feel.  Might want to consider CIH gauge wheels also to replace the JD tires.  Everyone seems to have very good luck doing that.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32820</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Taskers combines
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32822</link>
         <description>Name: John HendersonSubject: Taskers combines
Email: johnr.henderson@qbe.com
Does anyone know anything about Taskers combines?  I think they were made in England about 20 yrs ago
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32822</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Quad Track  Sprayer?
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32824</link>
         <description>Name: William A. GuentherSubject: Quad Track  Sprayer?
Email: 
I was wondering if anybody has seen this done before? I seen it once in a magazine a few years ago and now I cant find it back. I would like to use it as a floater to put on preemerge chemicals and spray pastures because of the smooth ride.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32824</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Quad Track  Sprayer?
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32825</link>
         <description>Name: John W
Email: 
A small company in Oregon makes such a sprayer.  They are even high clearance for working in tall crops and vineyards. They also make custom equipment to your specs.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32825</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>combines
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32827</link>
         <description>Name: DuffySubject: combines
Email: hasig@deskmedia.com
There wae an article in No Till about changing the sproket on the corn head to limit the amount of trash going through the combine can any tell the sproket size Thank you 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32827</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>White WP8743 Lift and rotate split row
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32829</link>
         <description>Name: myron KerstenSubject: White WP8743 Lift and rotate split row
Email: kerstencorn@cdsinet.net
Some say no 7/8 coulters 13 wave and some say yes.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32829</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to White WP8743 Lift and rotate split row
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32830</link>
         <description>Name: Ed Winkle
Email: ewinkle@voyager.net
If you wait long enough to plant, you can make the coulters work Myron.  I say don&#039;t wait and go plant without the coulters.  You will have no sidewall compaction but you will wear out disk openers quicker.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32830</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to White WP8743 Lift and rotate split row
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32831</link>
         <description>Name: Myron Kersten
Email: kerstencorn@cdsinet.net
What is a good rate of starter fertilizer to put down along with the seed corn    2inches down and 2 inches to the side, right.  How many pounds per acre ect. Myron
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32831</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to White WP8743 Lift and rotate split row
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32832</link>
         <description></description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32832</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>haybuster for soybeans
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32834</link>
         <description>Name: Jerry GilmoreSubject: haybuster for soybeans
Email: jerrygil@ktis.net
I&#039;m considering purchasing a used haybuster drill.  I understand they are great for grass seed, but how are they on soybeans.  The plastic metering wheel has to pick the seed up and deposit it an inch or better up the side of the box.  Will it do this acurately, and without cracking the seed?  I will also use the drill for wheat, and wheat beans.  thanks  jerrygil@ktis.net
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32834</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>zone-tillage
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32836</link>
         <description>Name: tonySubject: zone-tillage
Email: gerpoul@aol.com
can any one tell me what type of manchine to used for zone-tillage that i can used in the fall and then go in and plant in the spring with out tilling the ground smooth?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32836</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>deep tillage
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32838</link>
         <description>Name: Jim KinderSubject: deep tillage
Email: jwkinder@yahoo.com
I read the various articles in the NO-TIL Farmer and there is mention of plowing. We have been no-tiling wheat since 1998 and haven&#039;t plowed at all.  Nothing, just go in with a JD 1850 or 1860 and plant.  What is no-tilling when you plow. What ever you use to plow with, it is still plowing. Could someone define NO-TIL.  
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32838</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to deep tillage
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32839</link>
         <description>Name: Cliff SEIA
Email: cornboy9@hotmail.com
This is a touchy subject and if you really want to get down to it even a drill with a single disk opener performs tillage so a true no-till system would be impossible unless it was a crop that could be seeded on top of the ground.  I guess a better term would be direct seeding.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32839</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>closing wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32841</link>
         <description>Name: myron KerstenSubject: closing wheels
Email: kerstencorn@cdsinet.net
Is it possible to use Martin closing wheels when planting soybeans.   We plant about 1 inch deep, so trying to press the seeds in and loosening the top portion, will it tend to dry out ect.  Or will need the twisted chains also.  Sounds like a fine tune to get it just right. Myron
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32841</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to closing wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32842</link>
         <description>Name: Smash
Email: ashfarm1@juno.com
Its not hard. Make sure you have a seed firming device, to press the seed to the bottom of the V. I use Keetons. Then after installing the spiked closing wheels properly, aline them so the open space between the wheels is centered over the V. Best way to do this is to lower planter on a concrete surface (probably could do it in a gravel drive if the rocks are small) and pull it about two feet. This will put a scratch on the ground then you can adjust the spiked wheels. I only use the drag chains when planting corn, then take them off for beans.  
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32842</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>vacuum planters
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32844</link>
         <description>Name: JimSubject: vacuum planters
Email: 
Would a 1486 IHC or 5250 Maxxum have enough hydraulic capacity to run a 8 row JD Vacuum planter, or would you have trouble on turns, or lifting the planter?  The planter would be a pull type.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32844</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to vacuum planters
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32845</link>
         <description>Name: Cliff SEIA
Email: cornboy9@hotmail.com
The 5250 will have no problem with the planter and if the 1486 is an &#039;81 model with the PFC hydraulic system it will also handle the planter fine but the earlier models will require a pto pump to make it work.  We ran a 6 row 7200 on our &#039;81 1086 for one year without a problem but when we went to a 12 row we had to buy a pto pump.  
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32845</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Yetter Residue Manager
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32847</link>
         <description>Name: George Subject: Yetter Residue Manager
Email: @
What do you folks think of the Yetter Residue Manager 2967.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32847</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Yetter Residue Manager
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32848</link>
         <description>Name: Ryan
Email: 
I had a set of Yetters 10 years ago and the quality was horrible.  The fingers were always bent so I got rid of them.  I found out later that this is a very common complaint about Yetter residue managers.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32848</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Yetter Residue Manager
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32849</link>
         <description>Name: HawkenCougar
Email: 
Do you have a lot of rocks in your soils? If so, please disregard what I am about to say/suggest. 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32849</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Yetter Residue Manager
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32850</link>
         <description>Name: dewey
Email: deweyv2000@yahoo.com
i have the yetter row cleaners that mount to an existing colter. i have never bent a tooth. i dont think much of yetters quality in general, though. i dont know about the others on the market, but the bearings for the yetter are pretty expensive.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32850</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Yetter Residue Manager
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32851</link>
         <description>Name: HawkenCougar
Email: 
We bought our Yetter residue managers new. We have newer had to repair or replaced anything on them except for a depth control pin that was lost while no-tilling some wildlife food plots in five foot tall weeds. These residue managers have seen in excess of a thousand acres per row unit of mostly no-till applications. We grease the bearings regularly and remove anything that might have wrapped around the spindle next to the seal once daily to prevent premature seal failure. The green stuff doesn&#039;t seem to hurt bearing seals but hard and dry vines/stems can cause seal damage in a hurry. Additionally, after washing the planter we grease all zerks on the machine slowly till a small amount of grease pushes out any trapped water before putting the planter away. Moisture and/or dirt are the number one cause for bearing failure on any machine.  
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32851</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Yetter Residue Manager
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32852</link>
         <description>Name: tle
Email: 
I als o experienced prblems with yetters bending fingers.  first year we had them one of the bearings seized up and the fingers got bent from pushing trash.  in my opinion yetter is junk.  company would do nothing about it even though it was in warenty.  I think guys at yetter have no clue.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32852</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Yetter Residue Manager
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32853</link>
         <description>Name: Kornkurt
Email: 
Since there is a discussion on Yetters, I have a question.  I had a set of IHC trash whippers on a IHC 900 planter and when I wanted to go to a set of residue managers, rather than buy the whole set, I left the orig IHC  brackets on the planter  and slid a set of Yetters in place.  They work fine, no bent fingers, and only one brg out in six years.  The problem is that there is little adjustment.  There are many holes in the bracket, and many holes in the verticle Yetter shaft, but I have to move the shaft about 1&quot; at a time as the holes dont line up for a lessor adjustment.  Do I need the Yetter brackets ar is this just the nature of the beast?  Any ideas or exeriences appreciated.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32853</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Yetter Residue Manager
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32854</link>
         <description>Name: Ducks
Email: 
Yes, the Yetter has 1/4 in adjustments, Where the case brackets are 3/4..  46.68 is list price.. 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32854</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Yetter Residue Manager
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32855</link>
         <description>Name: Harry
Email: 
Why don&#039;t you guys listen to winkle?  The yetters are junk, Martins has the best, Dawn is trying.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32855</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Yetter Residue Manager
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32856</link>
         <description>Name: Tanman
Email: 
I am speaking from our experience and have had no problems with Yetter. As with any company there are issues or problems that come up that need to be addressed. We have called their service department and our questions have been answered. I think it is extreme to call it &quot;junk&quot;. 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32856</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>JD 750 Double Box Drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32858</link>
         <description>Name: Travis E.Subject: JD 750 Double Box Drill
Email: tcellis@pop.ctctel.com
I have seen a few JD 750 drills with a seperate &quot;deep banding&quot; fertilizer box. Has anyone had any experience with this type of drill? Is there a reason that there are not more of them around? I was told by someone that the extra box was an &quot;aftermarket&quot; conversion. I imagine the weight and horsepower requirements are to blame, but I think this setup would work great in my area (SW North Dakota). Overly wet conditions are not usually a problem!
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:18 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32858</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to 6000 series white planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32150</link>
         <description>Name: Ed Winkle
Email: ewinkle@voyager.net
I beleive it is an excellent planter.  I believe in Keeton Seedfirmers and Case IH guage wheel tires on all notill plnaters and drills.  I really like the Martin row cleaner on it and the Martin spading wheels.  Many farmers run the drag chains regardless of closing wheel preference.  I do not run a notill coulter but some do.  I would keep the double disk openers new and make sure the planter is running level.  White&#039;s seem to plant medium to large rounds best but I get the best yields out of medium flats if I can get them spaced correctly.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32150</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to 6000 series white planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32151</link>
         <description>Name: brad
Email: becfarms@aol.com
Ed, 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32151</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to 6000 series white planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32152</link>
         <description>Name: Ed Winkle
Email: ewinkle@voyager.net
You are exactly right, Brad.  Some people like me are too lazy to make it work properly, don&#039;t you think?  Mine is especially fickle on pressure, barely move the throttle and it changes.  Ideas?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32152</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to 6000 series white planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32153</link>
         <description>Name: Joe 
Email: vermunt@hay.net
If memory serves me right . The White planter operators book recomends med.rounds . That size of seed seems to be the highest costing seed to buy . It also plants the best . Seed companies to me got lazy and went to plateless seed and lowered the price just enough to make it attractive . Another thing is that from year to year the seed size seems to change . What is supposed to be a R23 one year may be a R21 the next and so on . That makes your seed plate size critical .  It all depends on what seed size and quality is like . Also some seed is grown in South America for our spring seed supply . 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32153</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to 6000 series white planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32154</link>
         <description>Name: Randy
Email: 
I&#039;ve had a 6r30&quot; White 5100 and now have a 12r30&quot; White 5100 and use a 6900 White splitter behind it for soybeans. I only have experience with the PTO pump on these planters but a 1000rpm change on the tractor engine doesn&#039;t change my pressure reading. Does your pump run directly off the tractor hydraulics? If a seed company can&#039;t get medium rounds I won&#039;t plant it and it isn&#039;t because I&#039;m lazy, I just value the most even stand that I can possibly get.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32154</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to 6000 series white planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32155</link>
         <description>Name: Chris S
Email: cschnell@netins.net
Check to see if hydraulics are plumbed right-the hoses back by the pressure regulator can be changed around for closed or open center hydraulics.  It makes a difference in both sensitivity and the maximum pressure.  
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32155</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Notill Drill Cutters
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32157</link>
         <description>Name: Davey F.Subject: Notill Drill Cutters
Email: lazyacre@seark.net
I have a Sunflower drill that is capable of no-till.  But in certain residue situations I have a problem with the smooth cutters clogging with residue.  I am replacing the cutters this winter and was wondering if another type cutter would solve the problem and what types of cutters the Sunflower drill could accept.  Thanks for your help!
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32157</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Bourgault sweeps
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32159</link>
         <description>Name: colSubject: Bourgault sweeps
Email: colin@mitchell347.freeserve.co.uk
we are thinking of fitting speed-loc sweeps to our cultivator and was looking for opinions, they will be the 18&quot; type?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32159</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Bourgault sweeps
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32160</link>
         <description>Name: Rob
Email: 
I have their new catalogue.  A 13&quot; and 14&quot; sweep is offered in the speed-loc style.  They do offer an 18&#039; in the bolt-on style.  You can visit their website at www.tillagetools.com.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32160</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Need No TIll coulters
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32162</link>
         <description>Name: RogerSubject: Need No TIll coulters
Email: rctbp66@hotmail.com
Hi, we ridge till SE Minnesota and I am setting up a planter to plant beans with on our ridges and I would like to buy 8 more Allis Chalmers no till coulters.  I need the mounting brackets and all.  If there is another brand I should look at let me know, however we have 8 A-C&#039;s now and would like to have another 8 to finish out our planter.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32162</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>FS:  JD 7700 combine
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32164</link>
         <description>Name: David DarnallSubject: FS:  JD 7700 combine
Email: ddarnall@hopkins.k12.ky.us
4wd, straw chopper, 220 bean head, Dial-A-Matic update, shed kept, 3980 hrs., used this fall, $7800, (270)249-0755
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32164</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>FS:  JD 7000 planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32166</link>
         <description>Name: David DarnallSubject: FS:  JD 7000 planter
Email: ddarnall@hopkins.k12.ky.us
6r30, no-till, liquid fertilizer tank, John Blue squeeze pump, 6 cast iron press wheels, 12 regular press wheels, insecticide, shed kept, $4500, (270)249-0755
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32166</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Planter Improvements
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32168</link>
         <description>Name: JefferySubject: Planter Improvements
Email: 
What improvements will you make to your notill corn planter setup this year?  Im using most of the martin system except drag chains, just looking for some new ideas........
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32168</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Planter Improvements
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32169</link>
         <description>Name: Craig
Email: 
I use the Martin equipment and feel that the dragchains are a must to break up clods and level out the worked strip. I would not go without the chains....cheap improvement.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32169</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Planter Improvements
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32170</link>
         <description>Name: Junked my Yetter openers last  year
Email: 
I replaced my rear knife yetters last year with Kinze single disc openers and it was a pleasure to plant.  That yetter junk was always plugged up, and talking to the company was a waste of time.  
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32170</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Planter Improvements
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32171</link>
         <description>Name: Ed Winkle
Email: ewinkle@voyager.net
Make sure your planter is running level when planting.  You may have to wait until planting season to check this and it will vary a little depending on residue, soil type, and weather.  I still find too many planter pryed up in the back or front of the planter.  
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32171</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Planter Improvements
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32172</link>
         <description>Name: Jeffery
Email: 
Can you explain what makes the J&amp;S seed tube gaurds good?  Do they aid in better placement of the seed at all?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32172</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Planter Improvements
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32173</link>
         <description>Name: Ed Winkle
Email: ewinkle@voyager.net
Yes, they seem to keep the tube more rigid and keep the planter from spewing seeds at different angles that causes them to be missed by the Keeton Seedfirmer and ending up all over the seed trench.  I am trying to get every seed as equally spaced as possible, with the same amount and density of soil on top of each seed so they all germinate within 24 hours of each other and maximize my yield and profit.  They only cost a few dollars and take more time to put on than they cost.  They provided me and other no-tillers with much better placed seed this year.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32173</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Strip-till bar in ridges
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32175</link>
         <description>Name: BrianSubject: Strip-till bar in ridges
Email: loeffb@rconnect.com
Any ridge-tillers out there using a strip-till rig to apply fertilizer into center of ridge?  How do you like it?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32175</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Strip-till bar in ridges
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32176</link>
         <description>Name: Mike S.
Email: 
Brian,  I used to ridgetil so hope this may help.  I notil now 100% other than the fall striptil.  I also only apply Dry P&amp;K.  My guess is that the mole knife will blow apart your ridge to much and you will have to be quite aggressive with the cover disks to hold it up in place.  In my notil the mole knife will loosen an area about 8 inches wide.  Will this blow the sides of your ridge out?  I also wonder that if this soil in the ridge is as mellow as I think it might be then the coulter may want to run to deep and plow.  Happens to me sometimes on some very sandy soil.  I guess I would try to borrow someones strp bar with those kinfes and try before investing that kind of money.   Again I haven&#039;t done it, just remembering my ridges and how the moles work now in my notil.   Just a thought came to mind now.   I think there may be a mole knife that is made for less soil disturbance for sidedressing that may work better for your ridges.  
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32176</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Strip-till bar in ridges
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32177</link>
         <description>Name: Brian
Email: loeffb@rconnect.com
Why did you switch to no-till?  How do you feel yields compare?  Obviously you switched and stayed no-till for reasons what am I missing?  Where are you located?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32177</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Strip-till bar in ridges
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32178</link>
         <description>Name: Mike S. 
Email: 
Brian,  Central IL.   Had two wet years in a row that we were unable to cult. to rebuild ridges and on our terraces, cultivating was very tough.  Some areas the ridges actually increased some gulley washes as it made the water run to the dips and break through as opposed to no-till letting the water begin to flow wherever.  Hard to explain.  Got tired of fighting to keep planter on the ridge also.  If our ground had been flatter, may have stayed with it.  
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32178</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Strip-till bar in ridges
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32179</link>
         <description>Name: Brian
Email: loeffb@rconnect.com
I understand exactly what your saying about the occasional increase in gullie erosion.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32179</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Closing Wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32181</link>
         <description>Name: Allan BergsmaSubject: Closing Wheels
Email: abergsma@netrover.com
I just found this site and it is full of useful info and ideas. We (my 71 year old dad and I) farm about 500 acres in Ontario with approx 2000 finishing hogs on the side. We went to 20 inch no till corn and soys 5 years ago. Currently we run a 9 row Kinze planter, double frame and an added bar up front for coulters . Remanufactured the frame to put all wheels between rows, 3 working coulters per row plus a separate dry fertilizer double disk couter following a lead working one. One working coulter is unit mounted Yetter with trash wheel combo. Also use the V insert between the seed opener blades and a Keeton seed firmer. The system works very well. The cost of a spaded steel closing wheel scared me so I looked for a more economical route. I cut my own wheels solid steel 5/8 ths thick with 1 1/2 inch curved fingers. I used the seed disk bearing assembly and bolted it to the standard Kinze tailstock. I also ran some other after market wheels for comparison. They all worked fine in our very variable soils (light sand to heavy clay). I think I can market these at 50 - 60 % of what other brands run for but I would like to have some other no tillers test them out in different areas. Can anyone help me out ? Thanks   Al
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32181</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Closing Wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32182</link>
         <description>Name: John
Email: jrlk@evertek.net
I would be interested in testing a pair.  We have a wide variety of soils.  I was disappointed to have bearings going out of my Martin spading wheels after just 2 years.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32182</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Closing Wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32183</link>
         <description>Name: Ed Winkle
Email: ewinkle@voyager.net
There are NO perfect closing wheels for every condition but Martins have worked best for me.  If you have a problem with them, just call Howard Martin at the number on
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32183</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Closing Wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32184</link>
         <description>Name: Allan Bergsma
Email: abergsma@netrover.com
John please give me a call @ 519 695 3891, any time except Sunday. Thanks Al.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32184</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Haybuster Coulters &amp; Disc
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32186</link>
         <description>Name: Mark CarterSubject: Haybuster Coulters &amp; Disc
Email: ccmachine@earthlink.net
I sell direct to farmers and save them money. These coulters and disc are OEM quality or better. We rent the drills and use them ourselves. Specifications are:
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32186</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Yetter fertilizer openers......
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32189</link>
         <description>Name: John BlankenshipSubject: Yetter fertilizer openers......
Email: wildcat1@wheatstate.com
I posted last spring about some model 2998 Yetter double disc fertilizer openers that were giving me trouble. They came with my 955 planter and I&#039;ve had nothing but trouble with them. They slop fertilizer all over the frame and discs, they&#039;re hard to work on, they&#039;re not adjustable,and bearings and seals are the only things available at a dealer most of the time.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32189</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Yetter fertilizer openers......
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32190</link>
         <description>Name: notiller
Email: 
Yetter&#039;s suck. They don&#039;t make them right.  Half the stuff they send won&#039;t work like it was supposed to.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32190</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Yetter fertilizer openers......
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32191</link>
         <description>Name: notillr
Email: webbfarm@heart.net
Just wanted to make sure that post wasn&#039;t mistaken for one of mine.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32191</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Yetter fertilizer openers......
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32192</link>
         <description>Name: Greg
Email: gkurwicki@charter.net
John,
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32192</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Yetter fertilizer openers......
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32193</link>
         <description>Name: Jeffery
Email: 
Stay away from that Yetter side knife model.  It wears out after just a few acres.  I guess it performs well at the time, but over $50 just to replace that knife is a little ridiculous.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32193</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Yetter fertilizer openers......
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32194</link>
         <description>Name: Albert
Email: aarmand@core.com
We use wave cutters in place of the standard cutters which seems to cure the trash problems on the knives.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32194</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>1205 Great Plains No Till Drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32196</link>
         <description>Name: Dave KennesSubject: 1205 Great Plains No Till Drill
Email: david.kennes@sympatico.ca
Just wondering if anyone can give me any feedback on the 1205 Great Plains No Till drill.  Does it work well in heavy clay soils?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32196</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to 1205 Great Plains No Till Drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32197</link>
         <description>Name: John
Email: 
I&#039;ve planted over 1000 acres with this drill and it works great. I use a 105 HP tractor and it pulls it with ease. My soil is more of a sandy loam in Ontario so sorry don&#039;t know about clay soils.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32197</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to 1205 Great Plains No Till Drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32198</link>
         <description>Name: neil
Email: 
add 1000# to the drill
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32198</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Morris Gumbo Boots
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32200</link>
         <description>Name: Nick CorrellSubject: Morris Gumbo Boots
Email: 
I want to dual shoot but because of our shallow soils I think my only option is to side band. I would be interested in hearing from anybody who has used or still does, the gumbo side banding boot and how they perform. I&#039;m in Australia and unsure how many are in use here. Cheers
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32200</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>seed boot bolts
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32202</link>
         <description>Name: Martin SmartSubject: seed boot bolts
Email: martin_smart@hotmail.com
Please can some one tell me why the bolts which hold the seed boot on are breaking.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32202</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to seed boot bolts
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32203</link>
         <description>Name: laurent lorre
Email: airelles1@aol.com
if your 750 a is a serial n° about 600400 to 600??? there is an update programe. JD as changed a lot of pieces include the seed boots on mine (1999 model) perhaps is it due this problem ?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32203</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Phoenix  Harrow
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32205</link>
         <description>Name: Jerry:Subject: Phoenix  Harrow
Email: skogen1@frontiernet.net
   This year I had a problem with the ground getting so hard from the rain ahd cold weather that the soybeans could not break through, (corn previous year).  I considered using a Phoenix Harrow, but wouldn&#039;t that defeat the benefits of no till by disturbing the residue, and opening up the soil for air penetration and faster residue decomposition.  Any thoughts, comments, or experiences would be appreciated.   THANKS:
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32205</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Phoenix  Harrow
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32206</link>
         <description>Name: Joe 
Email: vermunt@hay.net
For what its worth you have to do what you have to do . if it means going over a field to get a crop to grow , I say do it . Have been there before and waited for years telling my self it would work . Some times it does , some times not . Half crops don&#039;t pay the bills here any way . Just got done ripping a field that was no-tilled for 5 years . Can&#039;t say that the yields were poor but dandelions were driving me nuts . Must say that I can&#039;t remember that field being that hard ever before , even after taking off silage on a wet year . Thought the groung was supposed to mellow with no-till . Starting to think more of rotation and rotational tillage . 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32206</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>coulters
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32208</link>
         <description>Name: S.L. BradySubject: coulters
Email: mandybrady@netzero.net
Presently running single one inch eight wave coulters.  Problem is the double disk opener throws soil beyond the press wheels.  I tried a slower speed and a faster speed but it didn&#039;t help.  Would double coulters help?  I have tried all types of coulters in a single setup.  What type of coulter should I use?  In a double coulter setup, how far apart should the coulters be from one another?  I have a 333 no-till Allis Chalmers planter.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32208</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to coulters
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32209</link>
         <description>Name: Joe
Email: 
S.L.,
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32209</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to coulters
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32210</link>
         <description>Name: S.L. Brady
Email: mandybrady@netzero.net
already have scrapers installed this spring hoping to help with problem . didn&#039;t help possibly made it worse. i know all about wanting to warm up the row but complete rows of uncover $125.00 a bag seed corn is expesive. got so bad this spring even as dry as it was we worked up 175 acre to alleviate this problem. it worked because stand on tilled ground 25% better than no-tilled. need to fix or try to by spring don&#039;t have time to till 300+ acre and still take care of 35acre of tobacco . still pays must of the bills.  S.L.Brady
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32210</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to coulters
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32211</link>
         <description>Name: S.L. Brady
Email: mandybrady@netzero.net
already have scrapers installed this spring hoping to help with problem . didn&#039;t help possibly made it worse. i know all about wanting to warm up the row but complete rows of uncover $125.00 a bag seed corn is expesive. got so bad this spring even as dry as it was we worked up 175 acre to alleviate this problem. it worked because stand on tilled ground 25% to maybe 50% better than no-tilled. need to fix or try to by spring don&#039;t have time to till 300+ acre and still take care of 35acre of tobacco . still pays must of the bills.  S.L.Brady
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32211</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to coulters
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32212</link>
         <description>Name: John W
Email: 
Not sure I get the picture here. Why is the double disk opener throwing the soil so far? Does this planter have depth wheels beside the dd openers like Deere does? What is the condition of the depth wheels and tires? Have you tried it with narrow fluted coulters?  Without coulters? Maybe its time to move up to a Deere, CIH or White planter.  You Jim at Dawn equipment might have some ideas. He is very knowledgeable about row cleaners and coulters setups.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32212</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to coulters
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32213</link>
         <description>Name: S.L. Brady
Email: mandybrady@netzero.net
Don&#039;thave depth wheels beside dd opener.Metal depth bands available from 1 to 3 inch planting depths. Have tried all available types of coulters . No coulter won&#039;t work ground to hard and to much residue with corn on corn. Soil in my area varies from sandy loam to heavy clay sometimes all in one trip across a feild. Plant 5 thirty inch rows of corn.Cheap switch from 4 thirty eight using old planter frame and a little work on a 444corn head it became a 543, lot cheaper than new planter and new corn head. Would love row cleaners but only made for high dollar Deere,Kinze,White &amp; CIH planters.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32213</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to coulters
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32214</link>
         <description>Name: John W
Email: 
Check out the Sunflower no-till drill openers. They use a spring loaded flap of UHMW plastic along the outside of each of the double disc to stop or limit soil blow out from the openers as they turn and go through the soil. You might be able to copy their idea and adapt something similar on your planter.  It would be easier than side wheels. The side depth wheels do the same thing on the other planters. Sunflower shouldn&#039;t complain unless you try to sell them.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32214</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to coulters
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32215</link>
         <description>Name: FL
Email: 
will soon pay for a green planter--if you plant the best seed corn, why don&#039;t you plant it with the best planter?  Just a thought...
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32215</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to coulters
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32216</link>
         <description>Name: kevin
Email: 
 This spring we built a 5 row splitter for an IH 800 planter using units from an old 72 AC planter. Not sure if the units are the same but the problem with closing the seed trench sure is. Schaffert mfg. makes a closing disk with a universal mount that he says can be used on a 72 unit. It mounts between the disk openers and the press wheel. We are going to experment with one over the winter, and if it works order one for all five units. Paul Shaffert is a great guy to work with so you might give him a call. They have a web site.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32216</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to coulters
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32217</link>
         <description>Name: S.L. Brady
Email: mandybrady@netzero.net
I sure would like to contacted Schaffert mfg. Need a web address and telephone number please.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32217</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to coulters
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32218</link>
         <description>Name: Joe
Email: 
Schaffert Mfg. Co.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32218</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Case SDX30 
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32220</link>
         <description>Name: ClintSubject: Case SDX30 
Email: cbrandle@hotmail.com
I am considering buying a used SDX30 for next year for no-tilling in wheat and soybeans.  Is this a good investment or would a john deere be a better choice?  I also heard that the SDX30 is hard on soybeans, is this true?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32220</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Yield Maps and Variable Rate Technology
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32222</link>
         <description>Name: Dan MillerSubject: Yield Maps and Variable Rate Technology
Email: abmillerfarms@hotmail.com
What is the opinion on combine yield mapping systems?  Due to the very limited passes through the field no-tillers make, are mapping systems something being used to get a &quot;better look&quot; of the field?  Or, do you feel that variable rate fertilizer, grid sampling, has a better fit and return for the dollar spent.  Our operation uses a yield monitor and has begun grid sampling a few fields.  Can a producer &quot;fix&quot; a field easier with yield maps, VRT grid sampling or do you need both?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32222</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Yield Maps and Variable Rate Technology
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32223</link>
         <description>Name: John W
Email: 
Yield mapping would sure give you more information about your field. I think it is a good idea to think about your fields, the soil types, slope, drainage ect rather than blindly going out and sampling on a grid. A farmer that has been over the field a few times should be able to catagorize the field pretty good, and that input should not be lost. An aerial photo of the field is a great help too. Then you can take a few samples in the various different areas of the field and have a good picture of the soil fertility situation.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32223</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Martin closing wheels SCW-61
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32225</link>
         <description>Name: DaveSubject: Martin closing wheels SCW-61
Email: 
Has anyone used the Martin closing wheels on their White 5100 or 6000 series planter? I have the single press wheel which worked well in the lighter soil but I have concerns when no-tilling in the heavier ground with the single press wheel. The ones I am referring to bolt on and work in conjunction with the single press wheel. They supposedly help with sidewall compaction, etc. Thank You
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32225</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Martin closing wheels SCW-61
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32226</link>
         <description>Name: brad c
Email: becfarms@aol.com
Dave,
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32226</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Martin closing wheels SCW-61
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32227</link>
         <description>Name: Ed Winkle
Email: ewinkle@voyager.net
Those are the ones that make that planter tick in any soil we have tried and observed in many states, especially in the nutill system.  Try them, you will love them!
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32227</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Martin closing wheels SCW-61
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32228</link>
         <description>Name: Dave
Email: 
Thank you Ed and Brad for your comments. I appreciate this as my first year notilling has been successful on my lighter loamier soils so now I am making the move to my heavier soils but saw some potential for problems this year if we had not had sufficient rainfall in May and June. The cost of these units can be justified if they do the work that the company says they can do but having someone that has been involved in notilling as long as you have Ed gives me confidence before making such a large parts purchase. Thanks again, Dave
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32228</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Midland Zip Seeder
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32230</link>
         <description>Name: Curt Subject: Midland Zip Seeder
Email: cws@infinet.com
I am looking for parts for a Midland Zip Seeder. Does anyone know where I can find them? Please let me know as soon as you can — either on this site or directly to my e-mail address. I appreciate all the help. Thank you.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32230</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Grass seed attachment for Tye drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32232</link>
         <description>Name: kornkurtSubject: Grass seed attachment for Tye drill
Email: 
I am looking for a grass seed attachment for my Tye 2020 notill drill to plant alfalfa.  Good used or new.  Please call me at 641-648-9086.  NC Ia.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32232</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Great Planes no-till drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32234</link>
         <description>Name: ClaySubject: Great Planes no-till drill
Email: clayboy@shawneelink.net
Hi All,
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32234</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Great Planes no-till drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32235</link>
         <description>Name: John W
Email: 
Since no one has responded I&#039;ll add my two cents. I know of a 3010 that was pulled by an 8400T on some real steep hills with out problems. They were running the front coulter deep and packing a fertilizer tank too. So my guess is that your 200 hp tractor should pull it alright.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32235</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Great Planes no-till drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32236</link>
         <description>Name: Bradley
Email: csjohnso@wccs.isms.k12.in.us
You would need to have front wheel assist.  I have some difficulty in muck soils because the drill is so heavy.  I use a 7140 and get along ok other than that.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32236</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Great Planes no-till drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32237</link>
         <description>Name: Stu
Email: 
Clay: I pull a 2410 GP with either my 4455 or 4955 (MFWD&#039;s). Your adding 8 more units and some more weight.I would go to the 30&#039; myself next time without much concern. Good luck.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32237</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Down Corn attachment
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32239</link>
         <description>Name: JimSubject: Down Corn attachment
Email: ashfarm1@juno.com
Any advise on what attachments works well and what doesn&#039;t?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32239</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Phoenix rotary harrow
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32241</link>
         <description>Name: DuffySubject: Phoenix rotary harrow
Email: hassig@deskmedia.com
Can a Phoenix rotary harrow be used as a rotary hoe to brake up a crust covering corn trying to emerge just below the surface.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32241</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Phoenix rotary harrow
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32242</link>
         <description>Name: village idiot
Email: 
yep, I used one this spring for that reason and it worked good. Just half to take all the angle out of it and carry some of its weight on the wheels or bar. Also run a little slower than normal. It is much more aggresive than a normal hoe but a little tinkering with it and you will figure it out fine.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32242</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Phoenix rotary harrow
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32243</link>
         <description>Name: Jeff
Email: info@futureviewflowers.com
How would it work to incorporate liquid manure?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32243</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>New Deere seeders
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32245</link>
         <description>Name: Frank LessiterSubject: New Deere seeders
Email: lessitef@lesspub.com
We&#039;re going to do an upcoming No-Till Farmer article on the brand new lineup of John Deere no-till planters, no-till drills, no-till air drills and the new 1895 no-till separate fertilizer placement rig.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32245</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to New Deere seeders
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32246</link>
         <description>Name: Jeffery
Email: jswalton92@hotmail.com
As for their new air seeders and on board commodity tank, I have been waiting for deere to do something like this to their 1860 for a long time.  It never made sense to me to pull that heavy cart in front or behind the toolbar.  Just too hard to pull let alone manuever.  I think Deere is on the right track, but they need to make them in the smaller 30&#039; versions as well instead of 40+ feet only....  How many guys that can handle the 40&#039; only want to carry 70 bushel seed?  Doesnt make sense.  The 30&#039; guy as of now is still stuck with that stupid cart or going to regular tandem hitch drill which is even more of a pain to manuever....
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32246</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to New Deere seeders
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32247</link>
         <description>Name: John W
Email: 
There are at least 3 30 foot 1860&#039;s with mounted Valmar boxes on them here in Idaho. I think the boxes are 110 bushel. They tried Gandy boxes first, but changed to Valmar. I suspect they were Deeres inspiration. Here is the outfit that did the installation
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32247</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Great Plains 3510 Air Drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32249</link>
         <description>Name: JeffSubject: Great Plains 3510 Air Drill
Email: 
If anyone is currently using the 35&#039; 3510 no-till air drill from Great Plains please let me know your opinions on how it operates. I am thinking of trading to this model so any insight would be appreciated.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32249</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>caseih 5400 drill,coulter cart
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32253</link>
         <description>Name: Greg Subject: caseih 5400 drill,coulter cart
Email: ckgdugger2planters.net
I am considering buying a no till drill, Caseih 5400 with the coulter cart. What kind of job does it do and what conditions will it plant in. Thanks for the help.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32253</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to caseih 5400 drill,coulter cart
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32254</link>
         <description>Name: John W
Email: 
I my opinion you would be better off to get a real no-till drill and forget the coulter cart thing. Deere, Krause, Crustbuster, Great Plains are are better choices for no-till drills. You&#039;ll get better seed placement and less tillage.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32254</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>JD 853A Row Crop Header 
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32256</link>
         <description>Name: Joe Subject: JD 853A Row Crop Header 
Email: vermunt@hay.net
Looking to buy an 853A header . Any one have one for sale ao know where any are ? Thinking of taking a drive next week to go and find one . 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32256</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Great Plains No-Till Drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32258</link>
         <description>Name: DaveSubject: Great Plains No-Till Drill
Email: 
I would like to hear from somebody who has used the new precision no-till drill from Great Plains.  I am thinking of trading in a 750 JD.  I don&#039;t like the colter in front on the Great Plains or the poor trash clearance (in my opinion).  But the singulation seeding is a good point.  
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32258</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Great Plains No-Till Drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32259</link>
         <description>Name: wd
Email: wd3@cableone.net
Contact me with a price before you trade Thanks
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32259</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Great Plains No-Till Drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32260</link>
         <description>Name: Bruce
Email: 
Had a friend demo one.  He had trouble with the coulters gouging and plugging on uneven ground [old terrace field] in corn stalks so he gave it up. He was thinking of trying 7.5&quot; twin row corn on 30&quot;ridges for gravity irrigation but never got that far.  I have to wonder how well the seed meter works with corn and beans.  Try it before you buy it.  The crustbuster allplant meter does a good job of singulating soybeans and there&#039;s no coulters on that drill. 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32260</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>IH 800 in no-till
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32262</link>
         <description>Name: David DarnallSubject: IH 800 in no-till
Email: 
A dealer in my area has an IH 800 listed and he told me these planters do not need no-till coulters.  The one he has does not have row cleaners either.  How will it work for no-till?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32262</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to IH 800 in no-till
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32263</link>
         <description>Name: Dale Workman
Email: dewfarms@aol.com
 I liked the 800 for notill. Be sure it has updated offset closing disc. I used row cleaners on mine. It is also for sale as I went too 30&quot; rows. If interrested it is a 8 row 36&quot; tool bar planter.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32263</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to IH 800 in no-till
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32264</link>
         <description>Name: Walter Davis
Email: wd3@czb;eone.net
How much are you asking for the drill and where is it located?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32264</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>paraplow in no-till
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32266</link>
         <description>Name: Christopher JohnsonSubject: paraplow in no-till
Email: farmin25@hotmail.com
We were thinking about buying a used paraplow to pull across our no-till fields.  Has anyone had any experience (good or bad) with this.  Also what kind of price should you expect to pay for a used tool. 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32266</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to paraplow in no-till
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32267</link>
         <description>Name: JIM
Email: 
I use a ripper and realy like it, except for the fuel bill.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32267</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to paraplow in no-till
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32268</link>
         <description>Name: David Darnall
Email: ddarnall@hopkins.k12.ky.us
I have a Howard para-plow that was converted to a para-till(the shanks are side by side and not offset to the rear like a moldboard plow).  I like it quite well.  It does not disturb the residue much at all, and will run I would gues 16-18&quot; deep.  The shanks look like the ones on a Tye.  I do not know where you are located, but Westerfield implement, JD in Hartford, KY has two that they want $2500 each for.  I have not seen them but they are listed in the Fastline, KY edition.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32268</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to paraplow in no-till
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32269</link>
         <description>Name: notillr
Email: webbfarm@heart.net
I bought a Para-Till after taking over a farm that &lt;U&gt;needed&lt;/U&gt; some deep tillage to break up severe compaction. I kept it for a few years &amp; did quite a bit of experimenting with it before selling it.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32269</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to paraplow in no-till
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32270</link>
         <description>Name: Jeffery
Email: 
You said &quot;In my opinion the DMI was FAR superior to the Tye&quot;.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32270</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to paraplow in no-till
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32271</link>
         <description>Name: joe
Email: 
The Tye is the best at relieveing compaction, period! But it is also the most expensive ripper to operate also. Especially if you have roots/stumps and/or rocks. The Tye shanks cannot take the abuse the straight shank rippers can. 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32271</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to paraplow in no-till
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32272</link>
         <description>Name: notillr
Email: webbfarm@heart.net
There&#039;s no reason to be so defensive, Jeffrey. I was simply stating &#039;my&#039; opinion of the Tye Para-Till vs. the DMI based on &#039;my&#039; experiance of owning one &amp; using the other. I have no idea what either of them would cost new &amp; I really don&#039;t care which one &#039;looks&#039; the best. NO type of tillage tool &#039;looks&#039; very good to me! And, I honestly have no intention of buying either myself, at this time.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32272</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to paraplow in no-till
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32273</link>
         <description>Name: NWIN notill
Email: 
We have run both, and like notillr, we like the straight shank rippers.  The Para-plow left field too rough to no-till when only trying to run 12-14 inches deep (we have old clay tile we do not want to destroy).  Also had poor trash flow in corn stalks in the fall.  Now we run a DMI or Unverfth zone builder and we get along much better.  Need to examine your root growth and only use where needed.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32273</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to paraplow in no-till
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32274</link>
         <description>Name: Joe 
Email: vermunt@hay.net
Just last week I was at an event where DMI had a display . They had a pit dug 5 feet deep showing corn roots and the compacted layer or hard pan . It was obvious to me that there would not be any real benefit to going any more than about an inch below the hard pan . As for disturbing the total area between the shanks , I would be afraid that total disturbance would only cause compaction quicker in the future . Once the hard pan is broke miosture should easily move up and down . 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32274</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>JD 750 drill rebuild
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32276</link>
         <description>Name: wdSubject: JD 750 drill rebuild
Email: wd3@cableone.net
Just bought 750 drill .Please make any suggestions because we do not use no till here
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32276</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to JD 750 drill rebuild
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32277</link>
         <description>Name: Bruce
Email: cowboybodecker@aol.com
I purchased an old JD750 drill last summer. I rebuilt the back row of openers and left the front row as is. Planted wheat last fall and got along very well. Could not tell the diference between the old and new hardware when inspecting different rows of wheat. I planted into mostly harvested bean ground, so it was an easy enviroment to plant into, I was lucky. This summer I&#039;m replacing the front row. Get your hands on a brand new opening disk and seed boot. Rule of thumb if the old disk are wore below the belved edge of a new disk, then It needs to be replaced.( except I got by without following this rule.) The seed boot- when the outside wall, opposite the disk, is wore thin or through that surface that boot is wore and needs to be replaced. The bearing in the seed press wheel seems to be adaquatly designed annd I replaced them as needed, which is easy to do. The bearing in the cloosing wheel apears to be inadaquite. I would replace two of those every day. They are easy to get to, just keep a hand full of bearings, seals and the proper C-clip retraction tool around. Just visually check each closing wheel at the end of the day, or noon. Those wheel with bad bearinngs will have a shinny surface from being draged through the field and are easily identifiable. I&#039;ve tryed to spin them all before the day begins and I&#039;ve found that to be a poor predictor of failure. So I&#039;ve settled on the methode described above. When rebuilding the front row units, I remove them from the drill and drag the whole unit into the shop for necessary repairs. There is no room under that drill to work on the front row units. On the back row, room is adaquite. I hope that this helps, I&#039;ve only planted 2000 acres with this drill so my experence is limited, but I&#039;ve put on a lot of parts. Your stratagy is the same as mine. Purchase an old wore out 750 drill and give it a second childhood. The drill functions very well and the costs are certainly minimised. Happy planting...      
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32277</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>aerway
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32279</link>
         <description>Name: Bob Subject: aerway
Email: rjcooper@cvalley.net
I&#039;m looking for folks with experience with an aerway for:
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32279</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to aerway
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32280</link>
         <description>Name: wd
Email: wd3@cableone.net
I have 2 and think they are great  send phone and I will explain
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32280</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>JD 7700 combine for sale
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32282</link>
         <description>Name: David DarnallSubject: JD 7700 combine for sale
Email: ddarnall@hopkins.k12.ky.us
JD 7700 4wd, straw chopper, 3980 hrs., shed kept, new chaffer, new feeder house false bottom, 220 flexible cutterbar bean head, Dial-A-Matic automatic header update, excellent condition, runs very smoothly, uses no oil, selling because traded other combine for a larger combine, $7000 for combine and header or will separate 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32282</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Question for Kevin about JS ag discs
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32284</link>
         <description>Name: CFSubject: Question for Kevin about JS ag discs
Email: cardfarm@netins.net
Kevin, how do you run your JS Ag closing discs? It looks like there is 4 different positions they can be used. Do you run 1 or 2  blades per row? Have you had any problems with them?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32284</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Question for Kevin about JS ag discs
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32285</link>
         <description>Name: Kevin
Email: 
 On our planter we run 1 per row. I have added the shoup clip to stagger the closing disk. We run the J&amp;S in the back position with the stock disk in the front position. BY flipping the shoup clip and reversing the side you leave the stock disk on you can buy 3 sets of disks and have them all runnung with the serrations the same. In really hard to close slot conditions this setup seems to work as well as any and I have and have experemented with many. This setup with Floating row cleaners will leave a very nicely tilled strip that will warm up quickly. One drawback to the system I have described is that it can till the strip too much and result in washing out the strip on steep hillsides.I am courently working on the firming wheel to  to make it more adjustable and be able to firm the strip more in hillside conditions.(cant believe the original engineer didn&#039;t build this into the unit) Overall I think this setup is as good as it gets in notill for my conditions.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32285</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>IH 800
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32287</link>
         <description>Name: GeorgeSubject: IH 800
Email: geogreiner@earthlink.net
I&#039;m looking for a new type of closing wheel for this planter. I was wondering if anyone out there could possibly point me in the right direction, I know I&#039;ll probably have to try a couple differnt types till I find the right one for me, but I was hoping to narrow it down.  I am currently running the stock disc type without the offset, I don&#039;t have any trouble with them plugging. We farm in central PA the dirt is mostly Loam/ Clay with some rock, we plant into beans, wheat or corn. I also have noticed that alot of seed is not staying in the bottom of the &quot;V&quot; it ends up under the sidewall. Has anyone else had this problem? If so how can it be corrected?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32287</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to IH 800
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32288</link>
         <description>Name: Kevin
Email: 
 I also run a 800 planter with excelent results in notill. I like the J&amp;S notched closing disk in place of the stock disk. Also if the ground is really hard the heavy duty closing disk down pressure spring that Shoup sells might be needed. The Martin spiked wheel might also be an option if you are strickly notill but dosn&#039;t work for me as we both notill and conventional till. I also run a set of floating row cleaners. As to your problem with seed placement, A set of Rebounders is the best investment you will ever make for your planter. They worked much better than the Keeton for me in my conditions. IMHO an absolute must on a Cyclo planter.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32288</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to IH 800
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32289</link>
         <description>Name: George
Email: geogreiner@earthlink.net
Kevin,
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32289</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to IH 800
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32290</link>
         <description>Name: CIH 900
Email: 
Rebounds are a piece of plastic hung behind the row unit to make you feel good.  They are a deflector to try to get the seed to bounce to the bottom of the seed trench.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32290</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to IH 800
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32291</link>
         <description>Name: Gerald J.
Email: geraldj@isunet.net
I saw different rebounders at a farm show a week ago. They were contoured to fit the side of the trench and catch the bouncing seed, hollow on the bottom to center the seed, and flexed the plastic to firm that centered seed into the V at the bottom of the trench. Not at all like the plastic flaps that Shoup sells for rebounders. Come from Indianola, Nebraska.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32291</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to IH 800
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32292</link>
         <description>Name: Kevin
Email: 
 What company was selling these? Do they have a web site? I have expermented with adding a nylon roller to the back of a Rebounder with somewhat limited sucess.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32292</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to IH 800
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32293</link>
         <description>Name: Jon
Email: 
Schaffert Manufacturing 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32293</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to IH 800
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32294</link>
         <description>Name: George
Email: 
http://www.schaffert.com/
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32294</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to IH 800
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32295</link>
         <description>Name: get rebounders
Email: trf@netnitco.net
   George, We have seen to much seed not tucked in the trench with keeton, because of air planter. The rebounder was designed for the cycle planters. The seed is put in the bottom of trench where it belongs.You can put fert. on with them too. Yes look at there web site.          
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32295</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to IH 800
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32296</link>
         <description>Name: Kevin
Email: 
 I have thought some more about your problem of the seed getting under the sidewall and these thougts came to mind.(I
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32296</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to IH 800
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32297</link>
         <description>Name: George
Email: 
Disks were down about 1/2&quot; after last year. Replaced them with new ones along with firming points, but the boots were in pretty good shape. My first thought were that the boots were worn out and the seed was shooting out around them.. I know what Keetons are just never heard of the &quot;Rebounders&quot;. I like the looks of them though I&#039;ll try a set of each this year. It just seemed to me that Keatons wouldn&#039;t help since the seed is already in the side wall by the time they get to it. 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32297</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to IH 800
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32298</link>
         <description>Name: matt hagny
Email: mhagny@cox.net
I don&#039;t want to rain on your parade, but I have seen CIH planters with new blades, new firming points, Keetons, Rebounders, low air pressure, low down-pressure on the row unit, and various combinations of these &amp; other components or adjustments -- none of these will consistently prevent the problem described, of seeds getting under the sidewall.  Soil condition and texture is a much bigger factor than any of the previously mentioned items, because the true underlying problem is sidewall lifting.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32298</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>crustbuster drill advice
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32300</link>
         <description>Name: GéraldSubject: crustbuster drill advice
Email: ghuot@ican.net
Does any one know if it is strong an of to go in hard clay  ground and if parts avalability are ok welcome to any comment and expérience.tk
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32300</guid>
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         <title>Reply to crustbuster drill advice
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32301</link>
         <description>Name: John W
Email: 
I don&#039;t know anything special about Crustbuster drills, but  here is their web site and you can ask about parts, dealers, and if they think it will do what you want. I am sure they will say it is the best drill in the world but we expect that. Where are you located?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32301</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to crustbuster drill advice
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32302</link>
         <description>Name: Ed Winkle
Email: ewinkle@voyager.net
They are decent in hard ground, you can pick up a used one very inexpensively.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32302</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>kinze planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32304</link>
         <description>Name: clayfarmerSubject: kinze planter
Email: lbbell@grm.net
I have a 2600 kinze with pushers and am looking at going to liquid N instead of anhydrous.  I was wondering what kind of fertilizer openers will fit and what if any mods are required.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32304</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to kinze planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32305</link>
         <description>Name: Robert in CenMo.
Email: rkalpers@c-magic.com
I don&#039;t hae a Kinze but have looked into doing what you are planning.  You will have a weight problem with tanks,openers,pumps,etc.. There are some short line companies that make tank setups but remember Kinze does not advise. I think if a guy just uses his head there won&#039;t be any problems.  One guy here strips his planter down to get rid of some weight. I sure don&#039;t want to have to do that.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32305</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to kinze planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32306</link>
         <description>Name: BDvorsky
Email: BDvorsky@aol.com
I just purchased a kinzie 2600 12/23 planter set up w/ nitrogen coulters.  The previous owner set this planter up with JD liquid N coulters, JB piston pump 4- 100 gallon tanks.  You can talk to Dave Moller at http//www.Molleragservice.com .  He can get you the necessary brackets to fit your planter.  He is very knowlegeable on the Ag spectrum Nu Till system and sells all the planter attachments.  
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32306</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to kinze planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32307</link>
         <description>Name: Ed Winkle
Email: ewinkle@voyager.net
I think what we are talking about here really is how to raise more crop for less input rather than what weight a Kinze planter will hold.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32307</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Need cutting coulters for dmi nh3
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32309</link>
         <description>Name: bckSubject: Need cutting coulters for dmi nh3
Email: barknoll@yahoo.com
need set of cutting coulters for my 45&#039; 15&quot; spaced dmi 4200II nh3 bar-----either org dmi  or  such as Yetter model 2997 or 2999 cutting coulters
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32309</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>colters
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32311</link>
         <description>Name: brianSubject: colters
Email: brianl@advertisnet.com
Where can you find information on rawson coulters?  Should I replace Yetters with them?  I&#039;m always having problems with my yetters.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32311</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to colters
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32312</link>
         <description>Name: rustyt
Email: rusty@qix.net
try Ray Rawson 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32312</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Pros/Cons 750vs1560
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32314</link>
         <description>Name: Garth MulkeySubject: Pros/Cons 750vs1560
Email: mulkeyfarm@aol.com
We are thinking of purchasing a used JD no-till drill. Are there any major differences between these two that would make you choose one over the other.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32314</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Pros/Cons 750vs1560
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32315</link>
         <description>Name: ASG
Email: eag3@earthlink.net
One thing I think is a definite advantage of the 1560 over the 750 is double lift cylinders. In uneven ground, terraces, ditches etc, Having a cylinder on each gang will help keep the down pressure more even on the openers. The 750 (having one cylinder for both gangs) when going over a terrace,due to the distance from the rear wheels to the front wheels, will cause one gang to get the majority of the down pressure while the other gang loses it&#039;s pressure and can cause that gang to not penetrate the ground. Now if you are farming flat ground then it wouldn&#039;t be of much concern.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32315</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Pros/Cons 750vs1560
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32316</link>
         <description>Name: matt hagny
Email: mhagny@cox.net
Alan makes a good point about the 2 d-p cylinders on the 1560 (some late-model 750s have this, too).
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32316</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>no-till grass seeders and related equipt
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32318</link>
         <description>Name: erin paquinSubject: no-till grass seeders and related equipt
Email: pff@kingcon.com
We are an organic dairy very interested in no-till grass for haying purposes but we are having an awful time trying to find info on what equiptment to use or purchase. We would like to surf the web for info but can&#039;t seem to get the right name or words to find no-till grass equiptment. Any info to help with this would be greatly appreciated.  We are in VT but would love help from any source. 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32318</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to no-till grass seeders and related equipt
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32319</link>
         <description>Name: John W
Email: 
Truax makes a good drill for no-till seeding grass and forage crops, especially if you can&#039;t use chemicals.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32319</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to no-till grass seeders and related equipt
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32320</link>
         <description>Name: William G
Email: 
 Our local Pheasants Forever Chapter owns one. I will agree that it is a good drill, but it would be a little better if you have a person help get it set up properly first or a least the owners manual. I do not have the luxery of either. Very good drill for seeding grasses, I have used it to seed orchardgrass, oats and sweetclover at the same time and did a good gjob once I got it set up properly.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32320</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to no-till grass seeders and related equipt
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32321</link>
         <description>Name: jim
Email: 
great plauns Model # 705 or 1005
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32321</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>ACRA PLANT TRUE V
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32323</link>
         <description>Name: BOB BURGOINSubject: ACRA PLANT TRUE V
Email: BFIFARMS@AOL.COM
 ARE THEIR ANY ADVANTAGE,S TO ACRA PLANT NOTCHED TRUE V
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32323</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to ACRA PLANT TRUE V
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32324</link>
         <description>Name: NWIN notill
Email: 
We run them with Keaton seed firmers and have very good results.  Need to install with new seed discs, otherwise point extends too far past worn opener. 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32324</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to ACRA PLANT TRUE V
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32325</link>
         <description>Name: BOB
Email: BFIFARMS@AOL.COM
 DO YOU USE THE NOTCHEDN TRUE DISK, IF SO ARE YOU SATISFIED  WITH  THEM
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32325</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to ACRA PLANT TRUE V
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32326</link>
         <description>Name: Jeff
Email: 
Unneccessary, expensive, and they wear too quickly.  Just get the inserts with some new discs and youre set.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32326</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to ACRA PLANT TRUE V
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32327</link>
         <description>Name: NWIN notill
Email: 
We use the standard smooth disc opener.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32327</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to ACRA PLANT TRUE V
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32328</link>
         <description>Name: Paul Schaffert
Email: Info@schaffert.com
The Acra Plant True V slicer was originally designed for the drill unit the Acra Plant people made for their drill.  Their drill units had a narrower seed V opening than the present day John Deere or Kinze or White planter so when installing the Acra Plant V slicer the double disc openers on the planter will flex closer together sometimes causing the discs to rub on the seed tube putting a hook on the inside of the tube.  This hook will cause seeds to bounce.  I have been after the company who took over the V slicer to get them to make a new slicer to fit the major manufactures planters better.  The V slicer needs to be thicker to be ideal for these planters.  The V slicer does put your seeds about 1/2&quot; deeper than a normal manufacturers tube guard.  This narrow V slicer could also put side pressure on the double disc opener bearings.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32328</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>tires 
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32330</link>
         <description>Name: ken dreesSubject: tires 
Email: kendrees@hotmail.com
i am buying a new combine, should i put wide single driver tires on or duals 18/4/42s thanks
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32330</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to tires 
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32331</link>
         <description>Name: info
Email: 
Depends on the size of the header.  6&amp;8n row cornheads work fine with single 32.5r28?, but a 12n cornhead &amp; 30&#039; platforms will cause the combine to rock like a row boat side to side.  I recommend duals 20.8r42 with large heads.  IMHO 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32331</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to tires 
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32332</link>
         <description>Name: 30.5-32&#039;s work fine
Email: 
We have always used 30.5-32 on our combines and have had no problem.  30&#039; platforms for cutting wheat and we don&#039;t see any &quot;rocking like a boat&quot;, but it is flat out here.  If you can pay an extra $5000 for the duals I&#039;d do it.  You won&#039;t be driving on the row(30&quot;) and you can plant in the same row next year, if that is what you do.  I personally like splitting the row, or plant about 3&quot; on the south side of the old row.  It warms up faster, but the down side is the moisture is on the north side(where the snow lays).  6 of one, 1/2 dozen of the other.  To each their own.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32332</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>row cleaners
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32334</link>
         <description>Name: bobSubject: row cleaners
Email: rjcooper@cvalley.net
Tried one Martin 13&#039; row cleaner last year and liked it.  Am intending on changing from coulters to row cleaners on the rest on my kinze 16/31 planter.  One I tried is fixed.  Should I use the floating or the fixed row cleaners?  Next choice is Martin or Yetter   Most of our ground is fairly flat to slightly rolling--we do have some river bottom gumbo. Normally don&#039;t want to disturb it in the spring.  We do some minimum tillage as well as notil  Any thoughts or suggestions appreciated.  Thanks                                                                     
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32334</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to row cleaners
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32335</link>
         <description>Name: Ed Winkle
Email: ewinkle@voyager.net
I would go Martin only but that is just me.  I prefer the old traditional row cleaner but I am not afraid to get off and change adjustment.  If you have big acres and big adjustments, maybe the new style is worth the money.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32335</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to row cleaners
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32336</link>
         <description>Name: GT
Email: thompsonfarms@crosspaths.net
Is there really that much differance in row cleaners? Have used Yetter coulters and gotten along alright but Yetter doesn&#039;t seem to have many fans on the message board. I know where I can get a set of used ones but makes me wonder why they aren&#039;t on a planter somewhere. Also does anyone have any experiance with sunco rowcleaners? They look like a disc rather than an open wheel.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32336</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to row cleaners
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32337</link>
         <description>Name: pete
Email: pr32@net-link.net
     have used yetters for many years. first on jd 7000,now on a 1770.have yet to replace a bearing or have broken part  as Ed W.said it takes some time to manually set. we dont use them for tillage. just to move trash from the row.seem to work in most all conditions once set.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32337</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to row cleaners
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32338</link>
         <description>Name: bob
Email: 
Floating row cleaners are @ $50/row higher than the manual set ones.  My concern is there may be times when I would like to adjust and can&#039;t adjust the floating ones because they are designed to take care of themselves.  Any merit to this concern?  Thanks
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32338</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to row cleaners
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32339</link>
         <description>Name: Fred
Email: 
The Yetter row cleaner is too weak and is basically a piece of junk.  I would get either a Martin or a Dawn.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32339</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Planter type choice
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32341</link>
         <description>Name: Richard GlenisterSubject: Planter type choice
Email: rickgthf@yahoo.com
I am trying to get started in no-till and zone till. I need to be able to use one planter for both corn and soybeans. I have located two planters which may work for me. The first is a Allis 333 6R30 set up for zone till (3 coulters)with splitters to plant soybeans at 15 inch rows.  The Allis 333 planter mechanism is a vertical plate using air to hold the seed.  It has a good reputation as far as singulation but I do not know how toughed it is.  The second is a JD 7000 conservation (no till) planter (6R30)with finger type planter mechanism.  I have no actual experience with either type.  I like the idea that the Allis is already set up with zone till coulters.  Can I mount coulters on the JD 7000?  My other option is to build a zone till tool to go ahead of the JD 7000 in a seperate operation.  I am concern about the weight of both machines since I will be using a IH 756 (90 Hp).  Any advice or comment will be helpful. Sincerely, Richard Glenister
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         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Reply to Planter type choice
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32342</link>
         <description>Name: Charles Gander
Email: dgander@toolcity.net
If your going to put any fertilizer on the planter or the tractor then you don&#039;t have enough horses,that&#039;s speaking from past exp. Not familiar with the Allis real well. You can put anything on a John deere.
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         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Reply to Planter type choice
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32343</link>
         <description>Name: Wildermuth
Email: wilderm
I have pulled my 333 with a 3020 JD for as long as I&#039;ve had it.  It has a 200 gal fertilizer tank+corn and insecticide.
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         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Reply to Planter type choice
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32344</link>
         <description>Name: Richard Glenister
Email: rickgthf@yahoo.com
Do you have any idea whether the allis gauge wheel,opener disk system would work well in killed sod?  The previous message about the JD was for Charles.  Thanks, Rick G.
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         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Reply to Planter type choice
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32345</link>
         <description>Name: Richard Glenister
Email: rickgthf@yahoo.com
I assume when you say &quot;you can put anything on a JD&quot; you mean that the front tool bar where the fert. coulters mount would be strong enough to carry extra strip till coulters? Your comment about the horsepower is noted. Thanks, Rick G.
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         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Reply to Planter type choice
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32346</link>
         <description>Name: Charles
Email: dgander@toolcity.net
Personally I prefer the kinze over a jd, but we won&#039;t go there. opions are eveywhere. You are getting a heavier planter with the JD over the allis. People put coulters on the fertilzer bar,some on the hitch. My remark about HP. is from my experience in W.Pa. You get dragging those extra coulters thru the ground and up a hill you&#039;d be surprised how hard it pulls
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         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Reply to Planter type choice
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32347</link>
         <description>Name: Wildermuth
Email: wilderm@ jvlnet.com
I have one.  Don&#039;t pay a lot of money for a 333.  Think mine is about 15 years old.  Parts are still available at an Allis/White dealer.  Problem is anything like row cleaners aren&#039;t available as this kind of parts aren&#039;t around or expensive.  I&#039;m noticing a 7200 Conservation unit coming up on auction nearby.  Hope that is a better unit for todays needs.
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         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Exapta and CIH planters
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32349</link>
         <description>Name: deSubject: Exapta and CIH planters
Email: 
I noticed a post down below a ways from George about a reply he got from Exapta about what they thought were the problems of the CIH planter.  I can&#039;t believe any company would be so arrogant as to say take a cutting torch to your planter.  Exapta wanted the gauge wheels moved back about 5&quot;.  Even stranger was they wanted JD wheels on a CIH planter.  The rest of the world replaced their JD wheels with CIH.  They seemed to condemn the accepted theory that one needs Keetons, also.  I don&#039;t know anything about Exapta, but I know I don&#039;t want to buy what they are selling, they seem to be contrary to what I&#039;ve learned.
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         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Reply to Exapta and CIH planters
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32350</link>
         <description>Name: Kevin
Email: 
 According to them if you don&#039;t use their system you are doomed to failure in notill. I will put my planter up (See my setup below) against theirs anywhere anytime. For some unkown reason they love to dis the Case-IH planter.
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         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Reply to Exapta and CIH planters
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32351</link>
         <description>Name: Total agreement
Email: 
I&#039;ve noticed the same attitude from Matt Hagny.  He&#039;s had a thing about the Case tires for several years and it&#039;s his way or the highway.  I feel he&#039;s lost a lot of believers in his system because of that.  I&#039;ve had good luck with Case tires and won&#039;t change.  Who wants soil compaction?
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         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Reply to Exapta and CIH planters
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32352</link>
         <description>Name: matt hagny
Email: mhagny@cox.net
I was entirely open-minded about the CIH gauge tires for quite a few years, until I discovered what serious problems they create in certain conditions.  Yes, I have been outspoken against them since that time, because I thought it was very critical that this seed placement problem get some consideration -- too many people would sweep that issue under the rug, or tell you that a &#039;winged&#039; seed-tube protector will solve it.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Reply to Exapta and CIH planters
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32353</link>
         <description>Name: Robert
Email: 
You said it just like it is, Kevin.  It is their way or the highway and the highway is too big to worry about them.  If you are who I think you are, their system does not compare.  You have found out what works best for you and it works best for many.  Cannot say that about theres.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Reply to Exapta and CIH planters
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32354</link>
         <description>Name: Red
Email: 
I, too, can never figure out the Hagny problem with CaseIH.  For some reason he has an agenda that doesn&#039;t include red planters.  The only thing I can figure out is his closers don&#039;t work or aren&#039;t needed on a CaseIH planter.  I know I would never consider putting them on my planter because if they didn&#039;t work, it would be the planters fault.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Exapta and CIH planters
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32355</link>
         <description>Name: matt hagny
Email: mhagny@cox.net
Actually the CIH planter was the very *first* one we worked on in developing the HCS closing system (local farmers can verify this).  We had it all developed, right up to the point of finalizing details in the instructions &amp; packing list, and almost pulled the trigger on the production run.  It was a very nifty design, which had the Keeton bracket (for a heavy-duty Keeton) built right into it.  Further research showed that far too many seeds were being placed under the sidewall, and the Keeton wasn&#039;t hitting them -- therefore, no seed-to-soil contact (treader wheel was removed).  If we had no integrity, we could have put it on the market anyway, to recoup some R&amp;D costs, and it no doubt would have sold many units before people realized it wasn&#039;t a good setup.  We will only market good products.
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         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32355</guid>
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         <title>Reply to Exapta and CIH planters
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32356</link>
         <description>Name: matt hagny
Email: mhagny@cox.net
We do plenty of torching on other colors of paint, too.  OEM designs are not perfect or sacred, and the very fact that we are having a discussion about aftermarket attachments seems to show that others view this similarly.   
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Exapta and CIH planters
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32357</link>
         <description>Name: Kevin
Email: 
 Matt, sorry about my post, rereading it it sounded a little harsh. I was having a bad day. I wiil say that in my soil types, primarly sandy loam, my planter with my setup does a good job in notill. Using row cleaners, Rebounders, heavy duty springs on the closing disk with one J&amp;S closing disk it leaves a nicely tilled firmed strip. Do some seeds get under the sidewall? Yes, as I see some out of line. (maybe 2%) But they almost all come up as the closing disks have tilled the whole area. I have tried using th J&amp;S closing disk on both disk but that tills up the strip so much that it can wash out on steep hillsides. I am courently working on making the firming wheel adjustable to firm the tilled area more in some conditions. 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32357</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>1560 update
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32359</link>
         <description>Name: rrupeSubject: 1560 update
Email: rrupe@swnebr.net
Am considering updating our 1560 to the seed boots that are now standard on the 1590 and would like to ask if anyone has do so yet.  It looks as if the new boot is much like the old 750 boot, would that mean the 60 two piece has a problem?  The 60 boot does wear in such a way that allows the seed to fall to the side thus the claim of better seed placement.  I have a two row update kit and it looks like a rip off as you don&#039;t get the new seed tubes which you will need.  Thanks.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to 1560 update
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32360</link>
         <description>Name: John W
Email: 
Heard a John Deere rep talk about the 90 series openers and he said that they were moved back farther for less wear and better seed placement. Seems odd that they are back to one piece boots again. But we were assured that they were better than before.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32360</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>polytech spaders
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32362</link>
         <description>Name: mikeSubject: polytech spaders
Email: 
Is there anyone tried polytech spaders and how do they work.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32362</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>SDX 30 ?
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32364</link>
         <description>Name: Jon HagenSubject: SDX 30 ?
Email: 
Anyone have problems with the closer wheel not caving in the seed slot in untilled soil with a SDX 30? 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32364</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>FSO closing wheel
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32366</link>
         <description>Name: John SchmidtSubject: FSO closing wheel
Email: jrlk@evertek.net
Has anyone found a good way to brake up sidewall compation and close behind FSO.  Mine work well for fertilizer but when I plant beans in wet conditions I need to crumble the sidewall and close better.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Reply to FSO closing wheel
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32367</link>
         <description>Name: Bob
Email: bmorgenstern@cox.net
I have used the Hagny HCS and the Thompson wheel on a 7200 JD planter and really like what they do in the mud.  I have heard they work well on the FSO opener as well.  www.exapta.com or 785-820-8000
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to FSO closing wheel
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32368</link>
         <description>Name: experimenter
Email: 
I wouldn&#039;t recomend the HCS based on my experience.  I put on a used one on one row of a  JD 7200 and was totally unsatisfied.  In hard ground it didn&#039;t have enough weight to close the trench and in soft ground it went too deep.  Not worth the money.  We decided to keep the Martins we had on and took it off after a year.  Looks like more of a novelty than a practical solution.  They seem to keep changing the closing wheel, so apparently they have serious problems and they know it.
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         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Reply to FSO closing wheel
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32369</link>
         <description>Name: brad c
Email: becfarms@aol.com
Where you from?  What kind of soils do you have?  We farm up to 80% clay and haven&#039;t seen it to hard for them not to work great.  They don&#039;t need down pressure to slice the &quot;v&quot; only enough pressure to maintain contact w/the soil.  I have even run them over a few acres of tilled soil and they still didn&#039;t go too deep (1.5&quot; planting depth) but we did pull the springs off and just put them under the closing arms.  We are seeing truly great results over a myriad of planting conditions.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Reply to FSO closing wheel
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32370</link>
         <description>Name: experimenter
Email: 
Minnesota
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to FSO closing wheel
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32371</link>
         <description>Name: matt hagny
Email: mhagny@cox.net
We have never changed the design of the Thompson wheel since it went into production.  It has exceeded all expectations and we have no plans to change any of its design features.  Before we introduced the Thompson wheel, we sold HCS primarily with May-Wes &quot;Star&quot; wheels.
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         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Reply to FSO closing wheel
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32372</link>
         <description>Name: John W
Email: 
Check with Jim at Dawn Equipment. They make a closing wheel for Deere drills and they may be able to adapt one of them to your FSO.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
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      <item>
         <title>Mod. CIH gauge wheel arms?
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32374</link>
         <description>Name: RedSubject: Mod. CIH gauge wheel arms?
Email: 
Since a certain guru no til expert has decreed that CIH planters need the gauge wheels moved back 2&quot;, I&#039;m wondering if anyone has ever done it?  Matt Hagny suggested taking the arms to a blacksmith and using a cutting torch.  Those arms are cast iron, so getting them welded and not cracking has to be tough.  I&#039;d like to know if anyone has actually tried it, did it help, and was it really necessary?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Reply to Mod. CIH gauge wheel arms?
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32375</link>
         <description>Name: Kevin
Email: 
 I&#039;ll leave mine just where they are, thank you. The problem being talked about does exist to a degree. I stated below that maybe 2% of seeds are out of line (under the sidewall). That figure was off the top of my head and in talking with my son about it we have decided that it  closer to .5%. Of that no we believe at least 80% of the seeds out if line come up fine. If the planter is dropping 30000 and with 1% out of line=300 seeds If 50% of those fail to come up=150 seeds per acre. Stastiscally insignificat. My best guess would be if the problem is much greater than these numbers that the seed boots and or openers are worn out.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Reply to Mod. CIH gauge wheel arms?
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32376</link>
         <description>Name: matt hagny
Email: mhagny@cox. net
Lengthening the CIH g-w arm was a wild idea that has been tossed around by a few creative farmers here.  No one has actually done it to my knowledge, but the concept should work based on the design of other planters &amp; them not having problem with sidewall lifting &amp; misplaced seeds (at least not until installing the CIH tire).
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
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      <item>
         <title>955 - Kinze openers?
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32378</link>
         <description>Name: DanSubject: 955 - Kinze openers?
Email: dcottor@centurytel.net
Can you put Kinze fertilizer openers on a Case IH 955 vertical fold planter?  dcottor@centurytel.net
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
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      <item>
         <title>single disk fert. coulters
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32380</link>
         <description>Name: scottSubject: single disk fert. coulters
Email: scott.s.ruppert@jci.com
Looking at single disk coulters with gauge wheel for dry fertilizer.  Priced JD / Yetter etc.  ranging is $650 - $800 cdn new.  Does anybody know of used ones.  I&#039;m looking for 8.  Also, Has anybody tried the yetter parallel arm, knife coulter with nylon depth wheel.  If that set-up works, it would be a cost effective way to band dry fert with depth control.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Reply to single disk fert. coulters
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32381</link>
         <description>Name: Joe Vermunt
Email: vermunt@hay.net
Scott 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Reply to single disk fert. coulters
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32382</link>
         <description>Name: Scott Arthaud
Email: arthaud@ptsi.net
I bought used JD&#039;s from David Moeller last year.  He was very helpful and knowledgable.  Email me and I can give you his email address.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Reply to single disk fert. coulters
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32383</link>
         <description>Name: B.KNoll
Email: barknoll@yahoo.com
Have 12  used  Ausherman single disk for sale w/dry boot--good solid condition   Price 50% new   Located sc N.Dak.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Reply to single disk fert. coulters
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32384</link>
         <description>Name: Dan
Email: 
Do you still have these openers for sale?  If so, would you consider parting with only 4 of them?  Thanks.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32384</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to single disk fert. coulters
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32385</link>
         <description>Name: Don
Email: 
I had Yetter single disc openers one year and replaced them with Kinze.  The Yetter is nothing but junk.  The blades plug with trash between the knife.  Customer service from Yetter is a joke.  Take my word on it, avoid yetter.  Get Kinze or Ausherman.  Even JD would be better.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32385</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to single disk fert. coulters
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32386</link>
         <description>Name: Bean
Email: 
I had the same experience with yetter.  They would alwys 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32386</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to single disk fert. coulters
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32387</link>
         <description>Name: Precision Ridge
Email: gator_farmer@hotmail.com
I would advise Auscherman Vantage II I&#039;ve ran an 8 row deepbander over 750 acres per year for 6 years and finnally had to replace the blades.  Never had anything else happen to them. I can&#039;t say enough good things about them.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32387</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to single disk fert. coulters
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32388</link>
         <description>Name: b.knoll
Email: barknoll@yahoo.com
Located sc N.Dak,  with dry fert boot,  good condition, have approx 1000 acres on them.   
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32388</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to single disk fert. coulters
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32389</link>
         <description>Name: Dan
Email: 
Are you willing to part with only 4 of them.  I&#039;d have to have these shipped to Michigan.  Thanks.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32389</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Kinze 3000 discs make a wider seed V
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32391</link>
         <description>Name: Paul Schaffert Subject: Kinze 3000 discs make a wider seed V
Email: Info@schaffert.com
In my observation on installing the Rebounders on the New Kinze 3000 series planters that the double disc openers have a wider opening on the back side of the discs.  In a service bulletin from Kinze #SVC16-00 that the discs are 20% thicker than the original discs used on previous models. The new blade does not flex as easily as the pre 3000 series discs.  The new discs will only have 1&quot; of blade contact where as the older discs need 2&quot; of blade contact. With only 1&quot; of blade contact more washers are added to the inside of the disc blades making the seed V opening wider when planting.  Kinze has eliminated the use of the thinner discs so when you retrofit the pre 3000 series planters you will get the thicker disc.  We are introducing a New Rebounder that is wider in the spoon area to fit these new discs.  My question is will it be harder to get the the planter in the ground in no-till when making a wider seed V?  Will more down pressure have to be added to each row in firmer soils?  As the discs wear down will the thicker blade have to have more down pressure added per row so proper seed depth can be achieved?  Will a coulter have to be installed out front to achieve penetration?  Many of the drill manufacturers who don&#039;t run coulters in front of the openers compensate for this by making the double disc openers narrow on the back side.  If you want a copy of the service bulletin and a planter trouble shooting guide or more information call 800-382-2607 or email us.  
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32391</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Kinze 3000 discs make a wider seed V
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32392</link>
         <description>Name: matt hagny
Email: mhagny@cox.net
Reduced blade flex is a *good* thing.  Opener blades will flex due to 2 things: the thinness of the blade, and wear on the seed tube guard.  A new pair of blades (even the older 3 mm blades) and a new seed tube guard will result in very little blade flex.  Note that blades wear thin before they begin to lose diameter, and that this occurs very quickly (~ 5 to 10 acres per opener).  Seed tube guards are known to completely wear out in less than 30 acres per row.  
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Reply to Kinze 3000 discs make a wider seed V
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32393</link>
         <description>Name: matt hagny
Email: mhagny@cox.net
One more thing -- reduced blade flex will help keep mud from getting behind the gauge tires, since the blade will stay out closer to where the g-w tire is running.  (Everyone adjusts the gauge tire to touch the blade w/o any load on the blade, but they are gapped considerably after the blade starts flexing.)
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32393</guid>
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         <title>Reply to Kinze 3000 discs make a wider seed V
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32394</link>
         <description>Name: bknoll
Email: 
Has anyone tried new thicker blades on older Kinzie/jd?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32394</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Kinze 3000 discs make a wider seed V
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32395</link>
         <description>Name: HawkenCougar
Email: gkurwicki@charter.net
Just bought a new set of the thicker disc openers from Shoup for our JD 7000. I&#039;m glad you pointed out the change in stiffness or flex. I read the bulletin on the Kinze web page about the setting change to prevent premature wear on the bearings or discs. Should I set the blade contact on my JD planter the same as Kinze recommends when using the thicker 3.5mm blade?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32395</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>spike closing wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32397</link>
         <description>Name: marvin garrisonSubject: spike closing wheels
Email: mgarriso@adelphia.net
We want to put spike closing wheels on our 750 John Deere Drill.   We tried two Martin spikes and thought they done good. But after talking to a few people they said Dawn was better with depth control. I would like some opinions on all of them. We have a lot of miamian soils.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32397</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to spike closing wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32398</link>
         <description>Name: Ed Winkle
Email: ewinkle@voyager.net
There are no perfect closing wheels.  I do think spading wheels help us plant earlier and better in the usually heavier no-till conditions than standard closing wheels.  Martin is the preferable choice for me but others may choose Dawn.  Jim at Dawn does an excellent job, we will see him next week at the NFMS in Louisville.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32398</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Sunflower drills
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32400</link>
         <description>Name: farmerSubject: Sunflower drills
Email: 
How are these drills in no-till corn stalks?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32400</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Sunflower drills
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32401</link>
         <description>Name: John W
Email: 
Well, I see you made to this page. If you scroll down the page you&#039;ll find a discussion that started on December 26th about Sunflower drills. Good luck.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32401</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>jd7100 planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32403</link>
         <description>Name: fredSubject: jd7100 planter
Email: 
have JD 7100 3 point planter coming up on a sale, it has lift assist wheels. it is a 12r 15in. planter. was wondering if these make a good notil planter for soybeans? also what is something like this worth? only plant 250ac. beans a year. forgot to mention it has notil coulters.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32403</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to jd7100 planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32404</link>
         <description>Name: Gerald J.
Email: geraldj@isunet.net
It has the same planter parts as a 7000. I&#039;m told that the Kinze bean units work better (and directly interchange) than the JD bean cups.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32404</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to jd7100 planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32405</link>
         <description>Name: Red
Email: 
CIH makes a much better no til planter due to the off set disc design of it&#039;s openers.  It has a narrower seed trench, so less dirt is disturbed.  All you need it residue managers and Martin closing wheels and you&#039;re all set.  The drum design really works good, especially in beans.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32405</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Looking to buy self-propelled sprayer
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32407</link>
         <description>Name: rodSubject: Looking to buy self-propelled sprayer
Email: thehawk78@hotmail.com

</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32407</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Looking to buy self-propelled sprayer
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32408</link>
         <description>Name: Jerry Cosper
Email: cosperj@yahoo.com
rod
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32408</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Looking to buy self-propelled sprayer
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32409</link>
         <description>Name: rod
Email: 
Does it have three wheels or four and what engine do you have?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32409</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Looking to buy self-propelled sprayer
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32410</link>
         <description>Name: Jerry Cosper
Email: cosperj@yahoo.com
my 220 spra-coupe came with both tricycle and wide front ends and a 50 ft boom. It will tow at higher speed with the narrow fromt end. It has a tendency to whip when towed at around 35 mph with the wide end. I prefer the wide front end and will not reinstall the narrow. While operating, it is much smoother with the the wide front. Operator comfort is very important to me as I am the operator. If you go with a 220, be sure to get one with hydraulic steering as well hydraulic boom tip lift. The small vw engine is underpowered but works ok in no-till. I expanded the boom to 60 ft by going to the lumberyard and purchasing 2 chain link fence posts to use as boom extensions. This is a very 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32410</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Looking to buy self-propelled sprayer
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32411</link>
         <description>Name: Richard CentralMO
Email: drelliot@planetsos.com
I just traded a 220 w/electric actuators for a 3430 Spra-Coupe.  While I was shopping for a trade I drove a Wilmar and soon decided that it was much more awkward than the quite nimble 220.  To be fair, the Wilmar was a bigger machine.  It had a 500 gal tank compared to the 200 gal on the 220, 60&#039; booms compared to the 52&#039; and 4wd hydro compared to 4sp manual 2wd, 100 hp JD diesel compared to 76 hp VW gas.  After I drove the 3430 though I knew I would stay with the better handling of a &#039;coupe.  I was advised by a neighbor to stay away from the 3430 with the 86hp Peugeot diesel in favor of the 3440 with the 100+hp Perkins but when I found that moving up to the Perkins would cost an additional $10,000 I had to accept that it was out of my price range.  As for a 220, the VW engine is tough! I trade mine with 3000+ hrs and no major problems.  But you definately want a newer model with hydraulics.  The electric actuators work but are a maintainence headache.  Also if you can get to the 3000 series the booms are heavier and more durable.  If you can possibly justify $35,000 and up for a sprayer I would certainly focus on a 3440 or 3640 (higher clearance) Spra-Coupe.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Looking to buy self-propelled sprayer
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32412</link>
         <description>Name: Rod
Email: 
Should you have a narrow front end on the Spra-Coupe or wide frount end. We are in the rolling hills of eastern Mo.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32412</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Looking to buy self-propelled sprayer
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32413</link>
         <description>Name: Richard CentralMO
Email: drelliot@planetsos.com
Go with the wide front for two resons. (1) You will only leave two tracks through drilled beans when post spraying. And (2) stability.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32413</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Looking to buy self-propelled sprayer
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32414</link>
         <description>Name: Mike
Email: grain@earth1.net
I am on my third coupe 220,3630 and now a 4640.  They are great notill machines.  My 3630 had the smaller engine. I got by fine with it in notill.  In conventional it lacked power.  My 220 had electric actuators and it gave me some problems.  Find a good used machine with some service and parts support and you won&#039;t regret it.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Looking to buy self-propelled sprayer
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32415</link>
         <description>Name: Warren
Email: wwlivingston@hotmail.com
Dad and I bought a &#039;95 Wilmar 745 two years ago.  It has proven to be one of the best investments we&#039;ve ever made.  Having never run a self propelled before, I found the machine very easy to operate.  The 60&#039; boom doesn&#039;t look nearly that big in the cab.  Hydro and 4-wheel drive are great.  Really enjoy running the machine.  Only thing we didn&#039;t like was slow road speed (about 18mph), but solved that last year with a trailer behind the tender truck.  Overall, a great farmer machine.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Looking to buy self-propelled sprayer
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32416</link>
         <description>Name: Warren 
Email: wwlivingston@hotmail.com
Forgot to mention, while I&#039;m an IH man, that little Deere engine just keeps going and going, while only burnign 3 gal. an hour.  Makes operating pretty cheap!
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32416</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Looking to buy self-propelled sprayer
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32417</link>
         <description>Name: SEIA Notiller
Email: tesieren@iowatelecom.net
If the price of a self-propelled scares you, put saddle tanks on your tractor, and a boom on the three pt. hitch.  Saddle tanks can be bought for a song, and there are some good booms out there.  That&#039;s what I use, then you&#039;ve got the tractor to use when you&#039;re done with the spraying season.  Only downfall is, it ties up the tractor from Apr. 1st to Aug. 1st, but you can drop the boom off and use the tractor with the tanks still on. I drop off my wheel boom, then put on a sidedress toolbar, and use the same sprayer to sidedress N in corn before the beans need roundup.  It makes a nice SP sprayer in tight fields.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32417</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Looking to buy self-propelled sprayer
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32418</link>
         <description>Name: butch
Email: butch2@hartel.net
I bought a hagie 280 $18,0000.00 105 hp cummins/ownan 4fwd 800 gal. saddles kind of a pain in the butt in sidehills untill you get some out of the tanks overall pretty happy cab could be a little larger. 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32418</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>J&amp;S AG
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32420</link>
         <description>Name: GeorgeSubject: J&amp;S AG
Email: 
Can someone please give me a # or web address for J&amp;S?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32420</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to J&amp;S AG
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32421</link>
         <description>Name: jj
Email: 
They are in Ewing Mo, but I don&#039;t know the exact address or phone #
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32421</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to J&amp;S AG
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32422</link>
         <description>Name: Ed Winkle
Email: ewinkle@voyager.net
You can actually purchase their items as cheap or cheaper thru their dealer system.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32422</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>7100 jd corn planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32424</link>
         <description>Name: laurent lorreSubject: 7100 jd corn planter
Email: airelles1@aol.com
I&#039;ve seen a jd 7100 planter 6 rows , 3 pt mounted, at my local dealer today
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to 7100 jd corn planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32425</link>
         <description>Name: Craig
Email: 
I use a 6 row 7100...the row units are the same as the 7000 units. The only difference between the models is the hitch. I have my planter setup like the nu-till system. It has Yetter row cleaners, Case/IH gauge wheels, Keetons, Martin spaded closing wheels, and drag chains. I use no down pressure springs.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to 7100 jd corn planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32426</link>
         <description>Name: Gerald J.
Email: geraldj@isunet.net
I&#039;ve been seeing JD 7000 6r30 go for $1600 to 3200 in central Iowa. I&#039;m only willing to pay $1500. Those that sold at auction for 1600, my last bid was 1500.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to 7100 jd corn planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32427</link>
         <description>Name: laurent lorre
Email: airelles1@aol.com
Thanks craig and gerald for the replies
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32427</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to 7100 jd corn planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32428</link>
         <description>Name: Gerald J.
Email: geraldj@isunet.net
JD dealers and others have test stands that test the corn finger units for accuracy. The test typically costs $20 to $30 a row plus parts. It fixes worn and rusty parts to improve the planting accuracy. Shoup at Kankakee, Illinois www.shoupparts.com offers the service too.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to 7100 jd corn planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32429</link>
         <description>Name: laurent lorre
Email: airelles1@aol.com
they ask 780€ (850 USD) for the planter
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32429</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to 7100 jd corn planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32430</link>
         <description>Name: Craig
Email: 
I would say that is a very fair price assuming the planter is in usable shape. The toolbar alone is worth something.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32430</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to 7100 jd corn planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32431</link>
         <description>Name: Mike
Email: 
I would use Martin or Dawn residue managers.  I think you would be unhappy with the overly light Yetter managers.  We had a set some years back and the wheels are just too light.  If a finger gets bent, they don&#039;t turn.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to 7100 jd corn planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32432</link>
         <description>Name: Craig
Email: 
I use the Yetter&#039;s because I got them bought cheap right out of the box. Actually they are John Deere&#039;s made by Yetter. I would also recommend the Martin&#039;s or Dawn because an awful lot of people have had bad experiences with Yetter.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32432</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Single Disk Fertilizer Coulters
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32434</link>
         <description>Name: DanSubject: Single Disk Fertilizer Coulters
Email: 
I&#039;m looking for used Ausherman Vantage II for dry, 4 rows.  I plan to fit them onto a JD-7000.  Any leads are appreciated.  I&#039;m also after Martin closers for the same.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32434</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Single Disk Fertilizer Coulters
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32435</link>
         <description>Name: Joe Vermunt
Email: vermunt@hay.net
Might know where there is a set . e-mail me if you want to know more . 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32435</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Single Disk Fertilizer Coulters
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32436</link>
         <description>Name: ASG
Email: eag3@earthlink.net
I have a good set of martin spiked closing wheels for sale. email for details and picture.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32436</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Single Disk Fertilizer Coulters
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32437</link>
         <description>Name: Brad Benson
Email: Turnpikekid61@aol.com
Do you still have and how many?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32437</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Single Disk Fertilizer Coulters
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32438</link>
         <description>Name: Dan
Email: 
I replied to you last Saturday at your email address.  I haven&#039;t heard back.  I&#039;m just wondering if you got my reply.  Yes, I am intrested in the spading closers.  Thanks for offering them.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32438</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Single Disk Fertilizer Coulters
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32439</link>
         <description>Name: Mike Bell
Email: mbell4pu@aol.com
Looking for set of martin closing wheels
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32439</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>strip-tillage
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32441</link>
         <description>Name: bill smithSubject: strip-tillage
Email: bill@hotmail.com
how many out there strip-tilling and how long have you been doing it and do you nlike it, and do you make it work with beans also. thanks.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32441</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to strip-tillage
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32442</link>
         <description>Name: kirk
Email: 
i&#039;ve been strip tilling for 3 years here in Florida.  We have a problem with hardpans about 6 and 14 inches deep so we do in-row subsoiling with the strip rig. my thinking is by parking the harrow as much as possible i can eliminate these hardpans.  I strip&#039;till cotton, soybeans, peanuts, and corn.  Not yet 100 percent but increasing each year.  Our soils usually test .5 to 1 percent organic matter thus another reason for parking the plow.  It works for me to answer your question.  good luck.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32442</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>strip-tillage
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32444</link>
         <description>Name: bill smithSubject: strip-tillage
Email: bill@hotmail.com
how many out there strip-tilling and how long have you been doing it and do you nlike it, and do you make it work with beans also. thanks.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32444</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Does the Soil Doctor work?
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32446</link>
         <description>Name: inkmanSubject: Does the Soil Doctor work?
Email: ewj450aeroinc.net
Have you used the Soil Doctor? Does it work or is it snake oil? When does it do good job and were is it lacking? Are the newer modles impoved ? Please tell me your expereance.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32446</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Does the Soil Doctor work?
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32447</link>
         <description>Name: Brian
Email: loeffb@rconnect.com
I met a farmer from South Dakota a couple of weeks ago who has used one for six seasons.  He is a ridge-tiller and side dresses all his N using the Soil Dr.  He really seems to like it.  Claims he has tried to fool it many times using several techniques and it always seems to sense the right thing.  Also said he spent the first summer or two over riding it a lot because he was scared it wasn&#039;t applying enough N...but according to yields maps it has been right on.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32447</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Does the Soil Doctor work?
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32448</link>
         <description>Name: Ed Winkle
Email: ewinkle@voyager.net
I have friends who I consider excellent corn growers who use the Soil Doctor.  They have reduced N application while maintaining yields.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32448</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Does the Soil Doctor work?
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32449</link>
         <description>Name: Brian
Email: loeffb@rconnect.com
Tell me more please.  I&#039;ve just started researching the Soil Dr. so know very little about the product or the people behind it.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32449</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Does the Soil Doctor work?
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32450</link>
         <description>Name: Ed Winkle
Email: ewinkle@voyager.net
Thank you,
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32450</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Does the Soil Doctor work?
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32451</link>
         <description>Name: mike smith
Email: lcmfarms@direcway.com
Ed. We have been researching the soil doctor some and have talked to several people who own one.  I noticed that you didn&#039;t want everyone to know what you had to say about it.  We are located here in Indiana just East of Indy. about 25 miles.  I would like your honest oppinion on the Soil Doctor if you would.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32451</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Does the Soil Doctor work?
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32452</link>
         <description>Name: John Colburn
Email: colburn@soildoctor.com
Brian,
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32452</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Pellet applicator for insecticide boxes
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32454</link>
         <description>Name: Doug BowersoxSubject: Pellet applicator for insecticide boxes
Email: dbowers@sunlink.net
I am looking for a retrofit for my Kinze insecticide applicators that will meter pellets like Rodent or Slug bait.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32454</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Pellet applicator for insecticide boxes
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32455</link>
         <description>Name: Ken Rinkel
Email: farmfamily@empowering.com
I have them for my White planter, I ordered them from S.I.Distributing at 03221 Barber-Werner Road ST. Marys Ohio 45885. Phone # 1-800-368-7773 or www.sidist.com 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32455</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Use SDX style seed firmer on planter?
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32457</link>
         <description>Name: gregSubject: Use SDX style seed firmer on planter?
Email: jakebird@santel.net
Has anyone used a SDX or JD firmer to push the seed into the ground on a corn planter?  I&#039;m looking at rebounders for our 955, mostly for getting starter where it&#039;s supposed to be.  But have been told that in our soils (sc South dakota) they plug up too bad.  Was just curious if anyone had ever built a bracket or experimented with the SDX style wheel on there, or am i missing something?  Thanks!
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32457</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>: Looking to buy self-propelled sprayer 
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32459</link>
         <description>Name: rodSubject: : Looking to buy self-propelled sprayer 
Email: thehawk78@hotmail.com
Has anybody used the JD self-propelled sprayer. Looking at the 6000 model. What is it like. How fast does it go? How many gallons of water does every one use per acre? We use 20 gallons per acre with our pull type sprayer.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32459</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to : Looking to buy self-propelled sprayer 
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32460</link>
         <description>Name: dutch
Email: mvz@crosswind.net
Have heard many things about the 6000 series sprayers. Not too many good things.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32460</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>JD 1560 drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32462</link>
         <description>Name: HerbSubject: JD 1560 drill
Email: 
Have SDX firming wheels but I&#039;m wondering about residue managers and more aggressive closing wheels and wither to get the new 1590 seed tubes and moldboards.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32462</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to JD 1560 drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32463</link>
         <description>Name: John W
Email: 
I have heard the that the new 90 series seed tube will give you better seed placement and being moved 2&quot; rearward reduces wear on the opener. It looks like it will be expensive to replace when it does wear out.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32463</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Closing Wheels Wanted
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32465</link>
         <description>Name: Brad BensonSubject: Closing Wheels Wanted
Email: Turnpikekid61@aol.com
I have a6 row 7200 planter I have changed the closing arm to the 1750 style .I would like to buy 12 Bolt on closing wheels.I am undecided about the Martins or the Dawns.Any Imput would be helpful.Also any body interested in selling  I am interested in buying.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32465</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Closing Wheels Wanted
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32466</link>
         <description>Name: GERALD STEPHENS
Email: stephensfarm@tds.net
currently using 1780 deere excel results with martin spading wheels -- corn emergence never been better, have extra set (used 1 year, only 400 acres on them)
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32466</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Krause drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32468</link>
         <description>Name: kingbabySubject: Krause drill
Email: we-kingsfarm@pa.net
We are considering a Krause 5500 series Pro-Air No-Till grain drill system.  We are curious if anyone has one; we are interested in communicating with someone who has experience with one.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32468</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Wanted to buy Saddle tanks
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32470</link>
         <description>Name: Brad BSubject: Wanted to buy Saddle tanks
Email: Turnpikekid61@aol.com
Would like to know where I can buy used saddle tanks 400-500 gal cap.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32470</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Wanted to buy Saddle tanks
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32471</link>
         <description>Name: Jeffery
Email: 
What do you want them to fit?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32471</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Wanted to buy Saddle tanks
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32472</link>
         <description>Name: Brad B
Email: Turnpikekid61@aol.com
Thanks for response I want them to fit 4020 I can adapt them to fit I just want 400-500 gal cap and I do not even need any pump or anything except tanks, saddles,mounts .
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32472</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Wanted to buy Saddle tanks
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32473</link>
         <description>Name: Mike Bell
Email: mbell4pu@aol.com
I have two brand new saddle tanks with saddles for sale.  I bought them to put on 4WD tractor, but changed my mind.  They are 2-250 gallon tanks.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32473</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Wanted to buy Saddle tanks
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32474</link>
         <description>Name: Mike Bell
Email: mbell4pu@aol.com
I have two brand new 250 gallon saddle tanks with saddles for sale.  
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32474</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Wanted to buy Saddle tanks
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32475</link>
         <description>Name: Dan M
Email: abmillerfarms@hotmail.com
I have a set of used 200 gal (per tank), saddle tanks.  We used them on a JD 4450 and later a JD 4560.  I am located in south-central Nebraska.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32475</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>JD 750
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32477</link>
         <description>Name: truckSubject: JD 750
Email: trailer@nvc.net
Wondering about planting corn with a 750 drill at 15inch rows any advice?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32477</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to JD 750
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32478</link>
         <description>Name: Arnie
Email: arnie.com
We tried it several ways, all turned out like crap.  Use a corn planter.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32478</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to JD 750
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32479</link>
         <description>Name: Gerald J.
Email: geraldj@isunet.net
I planted 35&quot; corn rows once with an FB drill. While I was calibrating the drill, I found it split 2 seeds per 100 and that was using the smallest flat seed. The drill meters aren&#039;t often made to pass full size seed corn. Covering with just a drag chain, doesn&#039;t cause good corn germination.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32479</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to JD 750
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32480</link>
         <description>Name: Steve
Email: 
I plant corn in 30&quot; rows with a JD 750 and a 500 cyclo unit mounted on it. I use rebounders followed by IH seed firming wheels.Depth control and seed to soil contact is great.  The only thing I am not happy with is the seed spacing.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32480</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Keetons or Rebounders
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32482</link>
         <description>Name: Brad Subject: Keetons or Rebounders
Email: Turnpikekid61@aol.com
I am installing seed firmers on a 7200 I want to apply starter over seed,both the keeton and rebounder will apply the liquid .Is there a difference in the way they firm the seed? Is there an advantage to the way they mount?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32482</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Keetons or Rebounders
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32483</link>
         <description>Name: brad c
Email: becfarms@aol.com
I don&#039;t use liquid but would recommend the Keeton.  Only know a few that use in-row fert. and they use Keetons also.  
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32483</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Keetons or Rebounders
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32484</link>
         <description>Name: G stephens
Email: stephensfarm@tds.net
i am currently on my second set of keetons (first on a 7200 max, now on 1780 (both deere) )we also apply in-furrow starter with the keetons. we are very pleased with performance, both of firming the seed in the bottom of the trench and applying our liquid. i have never tried the rebounders, so you may not want my opinion, but upon observation i can not see a benefit they would offer. again, i am very pleased with my (fully in-tact) keetons. the reason i say fully in-tact is that some people are cutting the tails off of their keetons. i personally can not see any reason to do this. ------p.s. i farm in tn and there may be a soil type that constitutes a different approach than i am using, however we farm some clay, some silt loam, some sand, and combinations of all.              maybe this will help 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32484</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Keetons or Rebounders
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32485</link>
         <description>Name: John
Email: 
I have used both.  I had the Keetons on behind a Rawson colter setup.  I was always planting in mud and the Keetons always built up with mud.  In dry conditions I would prefer the Keetons.  The Rebounders work best for me.  They do not firm the seed, just keep it from bouncing up.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32485</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Keetons or Rebounders
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32486</link>
         <description>Name: ww
Email: 
Keetons are far superior to rebounders.  Keetons push the seed to the bottome of the trench and into moisture.  Rebounders don&#039;t do any of that.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32486</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Looking to buy fertilizer wagon
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32488</link>
         <description>Name: BrentSubject: Looking to buy fertilizer wagon
Email: bdhager@stellarnet.com
Am looking for a 1200-1500 gallon tow behind fertilizer cart to use behind my planter.  Want a 4 wheel cart, preferable with pump.  
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32488</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>JD 7000 for sale
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32490</link>
         <description>Name: David DarnallSubject: JD 7000 for sale
Email: daviddarnall1@excite.com
6r30, no-till, liquid fertilizer tank, John Blue squeeze pump, 6 cast iron press wheels, 12 regular press wheels, insecticide, shed kept, $4500, (270)249-0755, selling because I want to buy my neighbor&#039;s 12 row. 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32490</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to JD 7000 for sale
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32491</link>
         <description>Name: NO sales
Email: 
I believe the intent of this board was for exchange of information, not to sell machinery and Conklin products, two things you seem to like to do here.  If you want to sell something, buy an ad.  PS, I doubt conklin improved the planter any.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32491</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to JD 7000 for sale
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32492</link>
         <description>Name: I Second That
Email: 
Now get on outta here.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32492</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Wanting tank for rear of 4WD tractor
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32494</link>
         <description>Name: Mike BellSubject: Wanting tank for rear of 4WD tractor
Email: mbell4pu@aol.com
I am wanting to purchase a tank for a 4WD articulating tractor. The kind that rides above the rear fenders.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32494</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Wanting tank for rear of 4WD tractor
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32495</link>
         <description>Name: Bob M
Email: bmorgenstern@cox.net
Tufflite spray systems builds custom stainless steel tanks for the back of 4WD tractors.  900 gallons and baffled.  You can reach them at 1-989-588-4383 or www.farmspraying.com
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32495</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Wanting tank for rear of 4WD tractor
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32496</link>
         <description>Name: Mark Schrock
Email: mschrock@ksu.edu
Mike:
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32496</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Wanting tank for rear of 4WD tractor
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32497</link>
         <description>Name:  Bob M
Email: bmorgenstern@cox.net
Michigan Metalcraft is the same company that manufactures the Tufflite products at www.farmspraying.com
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32497</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Wanting tank for rear of 4WD tractor
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32498</link>
         <description>Name: Mike Bell
Email: mbell4pu@aol.com
I have talked to Michigan Metalcraft, and I think I would like to save some bucks on a used one.  Does anyone have one for sale.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32498</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Wanting to buy Martin closing wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32500</link>
         <description>Name: Mike BellSubject: Wanting to buy Martin closing wheels
Email: mbell4pu@aol.com
I am looking to purchase 20 martin spaded closing wheels for Kinze. Mike Bell 812-268-9975
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32500</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Wanting to buy Martin closing wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32501</link>
         <description>Name: Ed Winkle
Email: ewinkle@voyager.net
Mike,
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32501</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Wanting to buy Martin closing wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32502</link>
         <description>Name: Ed Winkle
Email: ewinkle@voyager.net
Try this one at www.martinandcompany.com
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32502</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>HP needed for strip till
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32504</link>
         <description>Name: JoSubject: HP needed for strip till
Email: 
How much horsepower is needed to pull a 12 row strip till machine? I have heard about 20 per shank. Can a large MFD pull it ok?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32504</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to HP needed for strip till
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32505</link>
         <description>Name: Ken Rinkel
Email: farmfamily@empowering.com
  Jo,
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32505</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to HP needed for strip till
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32506</link>
         <description>Name: John Evans
Email: jevans@southwind.net
I am pulling a 16 row DMI 8&quot; plus deep in sandy loam soils.  Sometimes we can only go 4 miles per hour with our JD 8400. We use mole knives to put on ammonia plus liquid phosphate.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32506</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>White 5100
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post32508</link>
         <description>Name: J HackneySubject: White 5100
Email: jhackney@farmtrack.com
Hi, I have a White 5100 planter that I use to plant no-till corn with.  I don&#039;t have a lot of experience with no-tilling and would like to hear what others are doing with the same equipment.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:17 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">32508</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to CDS squeeze &amp;keetons
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31758</link>
         <description>Name: Paul Reed
Email: pandlreed@se-iowa.net
Robert,
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31758</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to CDS squeeze &amp;keetons
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31759</link>
         <description>Name: Ed Winkle
Email: hymark@erinet.com
Good topic, good question, good reply.  This problem is one of many to be covered at the 9th annual National Notillage Conference in Cincinnati January 10-13.  Hope to see you there!
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31759</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to CDS squeeze &amp;keetons
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31760</link>
         <description>Name: Robert in CenMo.
Email: rkalpers@c-magic.com
Paul   The hose that I&#039;m using now is 3/8OD with 1/4ID. I don&#039;t think firmer is wide enough to drill that big of hole. The hose that I started with is 1/4OD and 3/16ID which fit inside of stainless tube. From the way I understood you and Dave Moeller[he e-mailed me] you do away with tube and drill hole in firmer and just use plastic tubing to back of firmer. Paul, I had told Dave that I fasten the 3/8 tubing to steel tube with short piece of rubber fuel line. Then the fert. runs through steel tube to ground. So it seems to me that I&#039;m locked into using steel tube. Did I miss something or do you agree. Thanks for your help. Robert
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31760</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to CDS squeeze &amp;keetons
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31761</link>
         <description>Name: bck
Email: barknoll@yahoo.com
had same problem, especially in early spring cool weather, diluted  liq fert. with 5-10% h2o which increased flow considerably, play around with ratio,  squeeze pumps, i was told can only develop @ max 5 psi, they are essentially more of a flow meter than a pump
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31761</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>spraying efficiency
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31763</link>
         <description>Name: Steve Subject: spraying efficiency
Email: sawinc@sbtc.net
I am considering combining night vision goggles such as those sold by Night Owl Optics with a lightbar system such as sold by Trimble.  I want to be able to spray easily and efficiently at night.  Any experience or ideas one could share in these areas would be appreciated.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31763</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to spraying efficiency
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31764</link>
         <description>Name: Ed Winkle
Email: hymark@erinet.com
I think it depends on the individual person, Steve.  I have a client who sprays with Blue Blocker sunglasses most times and what you mention has been discussed and makes scientific sense to me.  Any experiences out there spraying with the night vision goggles with lightbars???
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31764</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to spraying efficiency
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31765</link>
         <description>Name: Jeff
Email: jswalton92@hotmail.com
I have never looked through a night vision device before.  Do you think that you would have to constantly be adjusting the focus to make it work?  Alot of guys I know running light bars by themselves seem to do alright with out the night vision though.  It does sound like a great idea though, the prices of the night vision equipment are getting very affordable if it would work.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31765</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to spraying efficiency
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31766</link>
         <description>Name: Ron Hoffman
Email: trf@netnitco.net
Trying Outback Guidance System. I like so far. 12/23/00 and it is reasonable.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31766</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>double nozzle sprayer
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31768</link>
         <description>Name: SteveSubject: double nozzle sprayer
Email: sawinc@sbtc.net
Is the number listed in the latest issue of No-till Farmer to contact Spray Redux correct?  I have called that number and don&#039;t seem to be getting where I want to go.  Also, what  exactly is a hydraulic sprayer? Thanks.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31768</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to double nozzle sprayer
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31769</link>
         <description>Name: Stetts
Email: stetts@ev1.net
Steve,
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31769</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to double nozzle sprayer
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31770</link>
         <description>Name: Frank Lessiter
Email: lessitef@lesspub.com
Steve Berning, a no-tiller in Ohio, has used this sprayer extensively. give him a call at (419) 628-3090. 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31770</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>No-till Lucerne
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31772</link>
         <description>Name: Jeremy JonesSubject: No-till Lucerne
Email: bigbale@xtra.co.nz
Hi, I&#039;m a contractor in New Zealand running a Great Plains CPH drill.  I&#039;m having very poor results trying to direct drill Lucerne (alfalfa) and red clover.  Does anyone know any tips that may help with these small seeds?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31772</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to No-till Lucerne
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31773</link>
         <description>Name: Dave McLaughlin
Email: mcdapa@pa.net
Most of my alfalfa stands have been established with a Great Plains 10&#039; endwheel no-till drill.  I&#039;ve used both the small seed box as well as the main seed box.  In tougher conditions I usually use the main seed box (this drops the seed directly between the double disk openers).  In nice conditions I will use the small seed box (this drops the seed behind the openers but before the closing wheel).  The most important thing with either method is to get good seed to soil contact in the top 1/4 inch of soil.   
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31773</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Gp Precision seeding system
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31775</link>
         <description>Name: JocelynSubject: Gp Precision seeding system
Email: jmichon@ntic.qc.ca
I would like info about the new Great Plains drill they call  &quot;Precision seeding system&quot;. I saw one here in Québec last spring with very good results. But how is it for corn ? Can it be use for twin rows ? Your comments please.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31775</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Gp Precision seeding system
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31776</link>
         <description>Name: Jocelyn
Email: 
I understand that nobody tested the Great Plains Precision drill... Therefore, I would like contact Great Plains Mfg directly. I tried on their web site but the &quot;contact us&quot; botton is out of order. Maybe someone knows the Email address and be kind to let me know.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31776</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Erosion &amp; bounce in marker groove
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31778</link>
         <description>Name: Robert in CenMo.Subject: Erosion &amp; bounce in marker groove
Email: rkalpers@c-magic.com
We use black machine planter for 30&quot; corn and 15&quot; beans. We get some washing and unit bounce in beans and washing in corn down marker grooves. We don&#039;t run markers real agressive but in moist ground and heavy residue they do cut in. I tried draging a chain under tractor but that didn&#039;t work. Do any of you have any ideas. Robert 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31778</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Erosion &amp; bounce in marker groove
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31779</link>
         <description>Name: joe
Email: mkfarms@coastalnet.com
Robert,
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31779</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Erosion &amp; bounce in marker groove
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31780</link>
         <description>Name: Dean
Email: 
I switched my markers around (left side to right side) so that they are running backwards.  I then set them at a fairly aggressive angle, but since they are backwards, they don&#039;t dig in.  They basicly drag down residue and don&#039;t move much dirt.  This works best on an angle to the previous rows.  Don&#039;t know if this will work in your conditions, but it is easy enough to try.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31780</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Erosion &amp; bounce in marker groove
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31781</link>
         <description>Name: Steve Groff
Email: sgroff@epix.net
I put foam markers on my new planter last year. best $700 bucks I spent for awhile! I run the marker coulter straight and put a drop tube so my front tire runs over the foam. the tube is all but touching the ground, so wind was never a problem. I plant into alot of cover crops and it sure does take the stress off of looking for the mark. Makes night planting a breeze as the foam almost seems to glow in the lights. I also didn&#039;t like &quot;tilling&quot; a groove in order to see the mark. Foam markers work for me.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31781</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>coulters
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31783</link>
         <description>Name: John Subject: coulters
Email: jrlk@heartlandtel.com
I have been plagued with mud behind my Rawson 3 coulter system.  I am using a 1&quot; 8wave and 2, 2&quot;8wave.   What coulters could I use to put 32% 4&quot; deep and not bring up so much mud.  I tried one 5/8&quot; 25wave but that seamed to throw out as much wet dirt as the wider 8 wave.  Any suggestions would be apprieciated.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31783</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Drilling in frozen ground
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31785</link>
         <description>Name: Simon ChilesSubject: Drilling in frozen ground
Email: simon_chiles@farmersweekly.net
Has anybody tried direct drilling into frozen ground?In the South East of England we have had 400% of our normal autumn rainfall and so drilling is well behind.I want to drill Winter Wheat and Winter Field Beans which can be sown at this time of year,but the ground conditions are so wet that I can not travel on the land.I was thinking that if we had a frost of about -5 degrees C I would be able to travel on the land without causing any compaction by working at night.I thought the frost would also stop the soil,which is heavy clay,from sticking to the press wheels and lifting the seed back out of the furrow.I have a J D 750A air drill.Any comments please.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31785</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Drilling in frozen ground
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31786</link>
         <description>Name: Martin Smart
Email: martin_smart @ hotmail .com
Please ring when you hear there,s going to be a frost of -5
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31786</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Drilling in frozen ground
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31787</link>
         <description>Name: Merritt a Seefeldt Jr
Email: seefeldt@itctel.com
I agree with the previous post that you should go for it as he says. You can go to   www.dakotalakes.com  and Dr.Duane Beck has a lot of research connected to what he calls Dormant seeding under Information and Publications. Last year our farm in South Dakota planted spring wheat on Dec.13 and got a pretty fair yield that is compaired to spring planted wheat.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31787</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Drilling in frozen ground
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31788</link>
         <description>Name: swNEBR
Email: 
Just a comment on vernalization of winter wheat. Last fall, here in Nebraska, we were dry and the wheat did not sprout. It just layed there till Feburary till it finally rained and germinated. We were concerned that it was not going to be cold enough to vernalize but it did and headed with no problem. And it was not very cold at any time after it sprouted but it was in the teens and 20&#039;s some at night. So it must not require a lot of cold temps to vernalize. It was my understanding that different varieties need slightly different temps to vernalize correctly.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31788</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Drilling in frozen ground
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31789</link>
         <description>Name: Merritt a Seefeldt Jr
Email: seefeldt@itctel.com
Thanks for the commentcause I always wondered about that. Dr.Beck never used that excuse but he always pushed for spring wheat seeding on frozen ground. Never heard his reasonning. Maybe someboby else has heard. Thank you
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31789</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Drilling in frozen ground
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31790</link>
         <description>Name: Steve Groff
Email: sgroff@epix.net
I&#039;ve successfully no-till drilled spring oats in late winter
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31790</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Martin closing wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31792</link>
         <description>Name: Karl SyllingSubject: Martin closing wheels
Email: sylling@means.net
I am wondering about the martin closing wheels. I wonder
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31792</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Martin closing wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31793</link>
         <description>Name: Paul
Email: pandlreed@se-iowa.net
Karl,
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31793</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Martin closing wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31794</link>
         <description>Name: Ed Winkle
Email: ewinkle@erinet.com
I have found through experience what Paul says is true.  The Deere was invented for tilled soils and I find that it works well there.  In notill where the soils are usually cooler and damper, I get a big jump in planting quality with the Case IH rubber, the Keeton seedfirmer, even better is some food grade popup in the fertilizer tube with the seedfirmer, sweeping most of the trash out of the way with a rowcleaner, moving the coulter out of the row and using it to apply nitrogen fertilizer.  All of the standard press wheels either worked for me because conditions were just right or did not work because conditions were not right.  The Martin spading wheels took care of that problem for me in notill and probably has application in tillage but I don&#039;t till anymore.  The drag chains added a little planting consistency in mellow conditions which we are all trying to achieve.  Follow what Paul says, it works.  Each piece of the puzzle makes the notill picture clearer and clearer.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31794</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Trimming keetons??
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31796</link>
         <description>Name: Steve GroffSubject: Trimming keetons??
Email: sgroff@epix.net
I read that Paul has trimmed his keetons. Is anyone else doing this? It sure does sound like it might improve some weaknesses I&#039;ve experianced with seed spacing. sorry, Ed, but I don&#039;t want to wait till the no-till conf. to find out!
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31796</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Trimming keetons??
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31797</link>
         <description>Name: Ed Winkle
Email: hymark@erinet.com
You take a sharp knife that will cut plastic and basically cut the tail off so that the seedfirmer is about the same heighth from top to bottom, eliminating drag and build up.  I have a drawing somewhere or saw a drawing and will try to get one of the Reed&#039;s or Dave Moeller to post here and describe in more detail for those of you who cannot wait or are not attending the 9th annual Notillage Conference in Cincinnati next month, gosh only 5 weeks away!!!
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31797</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Trimming keetons??
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31798</link>
         <description>Name: Steve Groff
Email: sgroff@epix.net
yea, I&#039;ll probably wait till I see one b4 trying it myself. Does it still tuck the seed in the trench?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31798</guid>
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         <title>Reply to Trimming keetons??
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31799</link>
         <description>Name: Kevin Reed
Email: npkkreed@hotmail.com
 Steve
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31799</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>a ? for Paul, David, Ed.....etc
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31801</link>
         <description>Name: joeSubject: a ? for Paul, David, Ed.....etc
Email: mkfarms@coastalnet.com
I will have a complete Nu-till set-up this spring on a 7100
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31801</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to a ? for Paul, David, Ed.....etc
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31802</link>
         <description>Name: David Moeller
Email: moellerag@se-iowa.net
Joe,
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31802</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to a ? for Paul, David, Ed.....etc
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31803</link>
         <description>Name: joe
Email: mkfarms@coastalnet.com
David,
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31803</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to a ? for Paul, David, Ed.....etc
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31804</link>
         <description>Name: David Moeller
Email: moellerag@se-iowa.net
Joe,
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31804</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to a ? for Paul, David, Ed.....etc
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31805</link>
         <description>Name: Check out these links.....
Email: Ed Winkle
I agree with David, Joe.  The system works fine like it is layed out.  I use no down pressure and the units float across the soil, trenching the vee to planting depth which is 1 3/8 inches for me.  The seedfirmer firmly tucks the seed at the bottom of the vee the double disk openers made and the spading wheels loosen the soil beside the tucked in vee so when the seed sprouts, it finds nutrient and non-compacted soil fast for quick emergence.  I saw 2 days earlier emergence this year and those rows of corn were taller and made 24 bushels more per acre in our FFA and other fields and plots!  I think you will find everything you need to know at www.erinet.com/hymark/nutill.html and be sure to look on the troubleshooting link from Paul Reed.  I know it is too far for you, Joe, but guys www.agspectrum.com is hosting a meeting on this system at Indianapolis next Tuesday, January 12 and one in Iowa later.  You can get on their website and call them for information and reservations.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31805</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>planting corn with a 1860 notill drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31807</link>
         <description>Name: williamSubject: planting corn with a 1860 notill drill
Email: wlalk@aol.com
We were to wet to finish drilling wheat in north texas area.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31807</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to planting corn with a 1860 notill drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31808</link>
         <description>Name: Brad Jeffery
Email: bcjeffery@hotmail.com
Iam sure that you wouldnt be satisfied with the 1860 for planting corn.  The seed needs to be singulated for spacing in the row which is crucial for corn yields. I think in a few years they will make this possible.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31808</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to planting corn with a 1860 notill drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31809</link>
         <description>Name: Joe 
Email: Vermunt@hay.net
I have no experience with planting corn with a drill but have been told this phrase from an older farmer in my area .... A drill is used to sow grain , so you so with a drill . You plant corn and beans , so you plant with a planter !! 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31809</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>coulters on Case IH planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31811</link>
         <description>Name: TimSubject: coulters on Case IH planter
Email: bil1-58413@yahoo.com
I&#039;m starting to no-till in the spring and have purchased a 900 CIH planter. I would like to know what type of trash whippers are the best, just regular whippers or a combination whipper with a small wave blade running behind the whipper on the same unit.  I can get either type used.  I&#039;m planting corn, soybeans, and sunflowers in medium to heavy clay soil in ND.  I also have a fertilizer colter running two inches to the side, ahead of the unit.  Any other advise on this planter would also be appreciated.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31811</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to coulters on Case IH planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31812</link>
         <description>Name: bigj
Email: wherls@hotmail.com
tim,, i would suggest the coulter row cleaner combo,, the row cleaner will move residue out of the row, and the coulter will give you just right tillage at the row for good seed to soil contact,, remember the row cleaners are not tillage tools,, some use them for that and they can throw soil out of the seed row..  
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31812</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to coulters on Case IH planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31813</link>
         <description>Name: Marty Visto
Email: mvisto@drtel.net
Hi Tim,
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31813</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to coulters on Case IH planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31814</link>
         <description>Name: Warren Livingston
Email: wwlivingston@hotmail.com
If CIH guage wheels are such a problem, why is eveyone putting them on their Deeres and Kinzes?  And if the closing system is so bad, why are they offered as options by so many companies?  Maybe the red ones aren&#039;t so bad.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31814</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to coulters on Case IH planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31815</link>
         <description>Name: Marty Visto
Email: mvisto@drtel.net
The tires are not the problem on the CaseIH planter, it is how they are aligned and positioned on the seed disk that is the problem.  I am using the CaseIH rubber on a Kinze planter now and have never experienced the problems that I had with the CaseIH planter.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31815</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>What do you suggest?
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31817</link>
         <description>Name: bradSubject: What do you suggest?
Email: red@hotmail.com
Do you think that spreading liquid hog manure on the ground before a corn or bean crop would hurt germination of the seeds in a notill system?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31817</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to What do you suggest?
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31818</link>
         <description>Name: Ed Winkle
Email: ffa@erinet.com
We use lots of manure and lots of calcium lime wherever we can, it really makes soils perk.  It is too easy to spread it on your best drained soils or closest to the source rather than get it on the fields that would benefit most, often more poorly drained or farthest from the source.  If you neutralize the acid in the manure to a neutral pH I don&#039;t think you will see a decrease in germination.  I had one client who actually pumped a hog manure lagoon into his tanks and applied it in the 2 by 2 planter set up.  His corn always looked good and he saved bunches on fertilizer!  The farther the period is from the emergence date, of course, the less problem you will encounter!
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31818</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to What do you suggest?
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31819</link>
         <description>Name: brad
Email: @
Thanks for the reply, I think we will try to notill the crop early and see if it will come up because our seed dealer offers a 100% gaurantee on seed germination.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31819</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>1860JD with rowcleaners 
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31821</link>
         <description>Name: LesSubject: 1860JD with rowcleaners 
Email: l.lynch@sk.sympatico.ca
Is anyone using an 1860 with all the equipment necessary to do a proper job of seed placement such as row cleaners,seed firmers,and IH Guage wheels. What row spacing,and what about  mid-row banding?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31821</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to 1860JD with rowcleaners 
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31822</link>
         <description>Name: matt hagny
Email: mhagny@midusa.net
Seed firmers (Keetons) are no longer available for the 750/1850 or 1560/1860.  Go to the May-Wes beveled poly wheel to get better performance over the JD rubber-tire press wheel.  You may need to put them in a lathe &amp; turn the bevel back further to make the edge narrow enough to fit the furrow &quot;v&quot; properly.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31822</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Cutting off Keetons
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31824</link>
         <description>Name: LEBSubject: Cutting off Keetons
Email: 
I&#039;ve noticed a lot of comments on cutting off Keetons.  I&#039;m putting  new ones on for the first time and am wondering if I should cut them or leave them whole?  We plant corn, beans, and sunflowers in a medium clay loam soil that is not overly sticky in the spring. (South Dakota).
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31824</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Cutting off Keetons
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31825</link>
         <description>Name: Ed Winkle
Email: ffa@erinet.com
They are not too long, the big oval or tail tends to draw moist soil and ball up in some conditions.  Basically, some people are taking a hacksaw or sawzall and making the seedfirmer the same width from top to tail is the best way I can describe it.  You know how farmers like to modify things!  Keeton is a farmer too and you know how farmers like to invent things, too!  I like the fertilizer tubes and the liquid running through them helps the seedfirmer to collect soil against that humidity or moisture as you plant.  Most people have no complaints, I would try them before I took a saw to them.  I have no complaints on sunflowers, anyone have information or ideas on this topic?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31825</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Hagny closing wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31827</link>
         <description>Name: Steve GroffSubject: Hagny closing wheels
Email: sgroff@epix.net
Anyone have experiance with the Hagny closing wheels? I saw the article in the Dec. issue of the No-Till Farmer. I&#039;ve been experimenting with the angles of closing wheels but never did anything this extreme ( 50 degrees from vertical). 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31827</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Hagny closing wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31828</link>
         <description>Name: Doug
Email: djpalen@nckcn.com
Steve,
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31828</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Hagny closing wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31829</link>
         <description>Name: jeff
Email: wherls@hotmail
steve:: why do you need to angle the spikes on the closing wheels ? I saw your planter in the last issue. Are your current spikes getting into the seed trench ??  
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31829</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Hagny closing wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31830</link>
         <description>Name: Steve Groff
Email: sgroff@epix.net
my martin closing wheels work real nice. I have experimented some with angles on my previous planter but not the new one yet. I thought maybe this would be worthwhile checking into.  I do run a drag chain early, but later in the season when the cover crops are bigger the chain does nothing but catch rye stems so I take them off. I&#039;ve had some trouble with the  martins wrapping the rye. I wonder if the Hagny angle would be better or worse for wrapping. I hope martin makes a little scrapper to eliminate this problem. I tried to modify the scrappers they use for the row cleaners but did not get the right positioning yet to really be effective.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31830</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Hagny closing wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31831</link>
         <description>Name: Keith
Email: tfarms@kanza.net
We tried out hagny closing wheels on our 750 drill and when we saw how well it shattered the trench sidewall we ordered enough for the rest of the drill. Since installing them have had the best stands of wheat and soybeans since owning the 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31831</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>No/minimum till drill advice
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31833</link>
         <description>Name: RodneySubject: No/minimum till drill advice
Email: grorite@juno.com
I want to drill rice into a stale seedbed. Ground will be worked and leveled in the fall and winter....then drilled in early March. Not a whole lot of trash, but sometimes some very hard and       soils. Requirements are 7 to 8&quot; spacing, 24 to 30&#039; width, dual markers. Would rather not have to use a coulter type drill. Aren&#039;t there some on the market with enough down pressure on the double disk openers to do the job? Also, I can&#039;t live with an indentation over the seed slot. The preemerge herbicide (Command) we use can cause injury problems if we have a heavy rain or need irrigation before emergence. The water seems to move the Command around a bit and it concentrates in the press wheel indentations. Would a wide press wheel or &quot;V&quot; type press wheel be the way to go here?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31833</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to No/minimum till drill advice
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31834</link>
         <description>Name: Herb Shaffer
Email: hshaffer@wichita.infi.net
I feel a CrustBuster drill, either the all-plant or possible the min-till will accomplish getting the seed into the ground satisfactorily.  The all-plant has a max. per opener pressure of approx. 450#  and the min-till about 240#.  Their wheels are within the drilling width.  As to the Command problem you&#039;ll probably have to have the harrow attachment to level the ridges &amp; fill the furrows.  The openers on the min-till have about 14&quot; of vertical travel, the min-till about 8&quot;.  
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31834</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to No/minimum till drill advice
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31835</link>
         <description>Name: Herb Shaffer
Email: hshaffer@wichita.infi.net
Proof read dummy.  I should have stated the vertical movement on the all-plant is approx. 8&quot;.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31835</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Guiding System
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31837</link>
         <description>Name: Ron HoffmanSubject: Guiding System
Email: trf@netnitco.net
Has anyone ever used a lightbar or GPS to plant with ??  I want to do away with markers and try a guidance system. I am trying out the Outback Guidance System now on a trial basis and it seems to work well. If you have had any experience with a guidance system I would appreciate any feedback.  Thanx, Ron Hoffman
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31837</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Guiding System
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31838</link>
         <description>Name: Marty Visto
Email: mvisto@drtel.net
Hi Ron,
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31838</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Guiding System
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31839</link>
         <description>Name: Marty
Email: trf@netnitco.net
Marty,thank you for your information.With antenna on front end of the hood it made closer or tighter with 8 seconds out front of the tractor. We have been pretty close with in less then 6 inches. We havn&#039;t been on rolling ground yet. We have trying the Outback guidance by RHS. thank you again.  Ron
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31839</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Guiding System
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31840</link>
         <description>Name: Marty Visto
Email: mvisto@drtel.net
Hi Ron,
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31840</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Guiding System
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31841</link>
         <description>Name: Ron
Email: trf@netnitco.net
Marty, Are you going to the no-till conference.It would be interesting to discuss the guiding system.thanks again Ron
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31841</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Guiding System
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31842</link>
         <description>Name: Marty Visto
Email: mvisto@drtel.net
Ron, Yes I will be there.  I would be very interested to talk to you.  Marty.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31842</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Guiding System
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31843</link>
         <description>Name: Rod
Email: marten@dtgnet.com
I have also been interested in buying a Outback Guidance system for spreading fertilizer in haylands and pastures, spraying, and even for planting. I would be iterested in what you think of the Outback? After looking at it in magazines and on the web site it looks like a good system.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31843</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Guiding System
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31844</link>
         <description>Name: Ron
Email: trf@netnitco.net
Rod, We are going to plant with it.What we have tested it is very close.It is easy to install.It&#039;s easy to move from tractor to sprayer.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31844</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Building bean planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31846</link>
         <description>Name: Warren LivingstonSubject: Building bean planter
Email: wwlivingston@hotmail.com
Am wanting to build a soybean planter around a CIH 900 4-row.  Want to build a splitter bar on the back (similar to White&#039;s) that I can take on and off because I don&#039;t want to modify the original planter.  Have concerns with making the bar strong enough to carry the weight of 5 row units, without using assist wheels.  I also want to make sure the bar is heavy enough to hold the row units (and possibly 2 coulters per row) in the ground when planting. Any thoughts and suggestions on this would be greatly appreciated.  Also, if anyone has suggestions where I could find good, used row units, that information would would be helpful as well.  I will need 4 regular units, as well as one ground driven plate unit.  Thanks for the help. 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31846</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Building bean planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31847</link>
         <description>Name: Tim
Email: bil1_58413@yahoo.com
Warren, I don&#039;t know what part of the country you&#039;re in so this might be some distance from you but Haukos Bros. at Glencoe, MN has lots of row units for sale from late model planters, as well as many other parts.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31847</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>IH 800 planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31849</link>
         <description>Name: KEVINSubject: IH 800 planter
Email: kevhrdy@netscape.net
 In 2001 I will be notilling corn with an IH 800 planter. I intend to add row cleaners, reversed cup spaded closing disk, and keeton seed firmers. Also I will be putting dry fertilizer in the row. I know this is not the planter many would use but it is in excellent shape and I can&#039;t aford to trade. What analysis of dry fertilizer should I use. How close to the nu-till system would I be?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Reply to IH 800 planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31850</link>
         <description>Name: Ed Winkle
Email: hymark@erinet.com
If you don&#039;t run your coulter in the planted row you will be close, Kevin.  I am not familiar with the closing disk but sounds like you will be close.  We run our 28 and ammonium thiosulfate through the fertilizer coulter 2 inches off the side of the row and a good grade of popup fertilizer like a 6-24-6 through the tube on the seedfirmer.  AgSpectrum has their own system of doing this and have a Trademark on the Nu~Till system.  See one of their representatives for exact details or contact www.agspectrum.com  I would use my soil test to help me determine what fertilizers to use but this system works well for me.  Others?
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         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Reply to IH 800 planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31851</link>
         <description>Name: Kevin
Email: 
 Thanks so much for the information!
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31851</guid>
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         <title>Reply to IH 800 planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31852</link>
         <description>Name: Fred
Email: 
Ed,do you feel one should always run some popup through the Keetons even if I am putting liquid down 2 inches to the side with the coulters?  Do you use the same numbers on the popup fertilizer?  I&#039;ve been using 10-34 and occasionally 18-18 in the coulters.  Running an additional hose from the tank and using the same fert would be easy.  Adding another tank for different fert would be more trouble than it&#039;s worth.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Reply to IH 800 planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31853</link>
         <description>Name: Ed Winkle
Email: hymark@erinet.com
In most cases all you need is the little bit of popup fertilizer with the Keeton Seedfirmer tubes.  The tubes don&#039;t plug up but do draw moisture which makes soil collect on the tubes a little bit but not enough to hurt anything.  Some people have trimmed the tail of their seedfirmers to keep them from balling up the few times that ever happens which is seldom.  I had quit using popup up until Dwayne Beck showed me how they help early growth and benefit your notill situation even when the yield does not look like it paid for itself.  Get your calcium over 70% base saturation, your P over 50 pounds Bray P1 or 25 PPM and your K over 275 pounds and the little bit of popup is all we need.  Some people use the cheaper 10-34-0 like you do or even put it through the seedfirmers but that can be hard on some hybrids, it can slow germination and kill some seeds.  We prefer the food grade fertilizer.  Good question and good luck!
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         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Reply to IH 800 planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31854</link>
         <description>Name: Ron
Email: trf@netnitico.net
Kevin have you looked at the rebounders instead of the keetons? Keetons sometimes pushes the seed down ward and to the side in moist condition.Rebonders holds the seed in furrow. We have used both an like the rebounders better.They have them for IH planters.You can see them at www.schaffert.com
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to IH 800 planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31855</link>
         <description>Name: Kevin
Email: 
 Thanks for the information Ron. The rebounders look good, I might go with those. Have you tried the furrow closers? I assume they have them for IH planters. I have had trouble closing the seed trench in the past in hard ground with the stock covering disks. I had thought I would update to the serrated reversed cup covering disk shoup sells but that might be another option. It is somewhat cheaper. What are your thoughts?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Reply to IH 800 planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31856</link>
         <description>Name: Ron
Email: trf@netnitco.net
Kevin, No we don&#039;t have a IH planter but,Paul the owner of the rebounders, has a IH planter.No we havn&#039;t used the closing wheels.Sometime I would like to try them.We have a Rawson setup with Knize units.I don&#039;t know if you were going use 10-34-0 as a pop-up be, careful with it is very hot.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to IH 800 planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31857</link>
         <description>Name: jeff
Email: wherls@hotmail
Kevin:
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31857</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to IH 800 planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31858</link>
         <description>Name: Kevin
Email: kevhrdy@netscape.net
 Thanks for the information Jeff. I am going to use a dry fertilizer formulation, but not on the seed. I have new firming points on the planter. My biggest concern with this planter is being to close the seed trench. That has been a drawback with this planter in hard ground. Seed spacing was much better than I was first led to believe it would be. I dropped 28000@ 4.5 mph and seed spacing was acceptable.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to IH 800 planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31859</link>
         <description>Name: jeff
Email: wherls@hotmail
Kevin,
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31859</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to IH 800 planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31860</link>
         <description>Name: Marty Visto
Email: mvisto@drtel.net
Hi Kevin,
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31860</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to IH 800 planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31861</link>
         <description>Name: Lenny
Email: 
When changing the closing wheels on a CIH planter which is better, Martin or Shoup wheels?  Martin has longer, narrower sprikes, Shoup has short, very wide spikes.  The martins would dig deeper but not necessarily move more dirt then the Shoups.  Would putting a spiked wheel on only one side and leaving the original one work?     
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31861</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to IH 800 planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31862</link>
         <description>Name: Cliff SEIA
Email: cornboy9@hotmail.com
If you are wanting to plant in wet conditions I would go with the Martins, if you are wanting to cut through trash better the ones from Shoup might work better.  
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31862</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to IH 800 planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31863</link>
         <description>Name: Lenny
Email: 
Thanks for the reply Cliff.  What about where I&#039;m planting beans into corn stover (heavy trash) and after this winter it&#039;s going to be wet under the trash mat?  I&#039;ve got an incredible amount of snow already and the winter isn&#039;t over.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31863</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to IH 800 planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31864</link>
         <description>Name: Jim Coady
Email: farmcom@kanokla.net
Lenny,
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31864</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to IH 800 planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31865</link>
         <description>Name: Cliff SEIA
Email: cornboy9@hotmail.com
I don&#039;t know if the mounts are the same but maybe using a martin on one side and a shoup on the other would work.  This would give you the advantages of both.  I personally would not go with V style closing wheels because then you wouldn&#039;t be putting moist soil back around the seed in dry conditions.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31865</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to IH 800 planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31866</link>
         <description>Name: jeff
Email: wherls@hotmail
Lenny,,
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31866</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to IH 800 planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31867</link>
         <description>Name: Cliff SEIA
Email: cornboy9@hotmail.com
Is there a chance that the openers on your planter were worn and needed reshimed?  That is the only way I can figure out for you to have those problems.  The staggered openers should be less suseptable to those problems than standard openers since the second disk is tucked in behind the lead disk.  One year when the openers on our 800 were worn we had problems like yours in worked ground.  
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31867</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to IH 800 planter
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31868</link>
         <description>Name: Marty Visto
Email: mvisto@drtel.net
Hi Cliff,
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31868</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Case IH seed trench
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31870</link>
         <description>Name: TomSubject: Case IH seed trench
Email: 
I&#039;ve heard the seed trench on a CIH planter is narrower than on a JD or Kinze.  Wouldn&#039;t that make it preferable to something with a wider furrow since wider would naturally cause more side wall compaction?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31870</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Case IH seed trench
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31871</link>
         <description>Name: jeff
Email: wherls@hotmail
Tom,, you are correct,, the cih planter is really a good opener for no-till,, the stagered disc,, they only open a 7/8 trench,, that is why a coulter row cleaner alone works very good,, if you were planting in wheat stubble or sod, i would say get spiked up,, lots of smoke and mirrors out thier with the case gauge wheel pitch.. 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31871</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Case IH seed trench
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31872</link>
         <description>Name: Marty Visto
Email: mvisto@drtel.net
Hi Tom,
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31872</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Case IH seed trench
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31873</link>
         <description>Name: jeff
Email: wherls@hotmail
marty,
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31873</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Case IH seed trench
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31874</link>
         <description>Name: Marty Visto
Email: mvisto@drtel.net
Jeff,
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Case IH seed trench
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31875</link>
         <description>Name: Bob
Email: 
Marty, I don&#039;t doubt you&#039;ve had all the problems you&#039;ve described in your ordeal with the 900 C-IH planter.  It should be pointed out however that the area where you farm (Oakes, ND) is not like most land.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Case IH seed trench
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31876</link>
         <description>Name: Marty Visto
Email: mvisto@drtel.net
Hi Bob,
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31876</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Case IH seed trench
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31877</link>
         <description>Name: Herb Shaffer
Email: hshaffer@wichita.infi.net
I also have had the problems you tell about.  I am sticking with the C-IH planter so far.  Some things that have helped are using the rotary outside disc scrapers.  The mud is still deposited inside the gauge wheels but it is in smaller pieces and falls out better.  As far as the mud on the inside, between the discs, I replace the compaction runners annually because wear on the inside scraper portion of the runner is very conductive to further buildup of dirt on the insie of the disc and when buildup occurs it carries even more dirt up the inside of the disc.  In the days before no-till we only replaced the compaction runner when the vee became worn.  
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31877</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Case IH seed trench
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31878</link>
         <description>Name: Marty Visto
Email: mvisto@drtel.net
Hi Herb,
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31878</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Case IH seed trench
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31879</link>
         <description>Name: Mylo
Email: 
Same problem here with the CIH 900.  The rows beside the tractor tire tracks are the most likely to plug.  
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31879</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Case IH seed trench
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31880</link>
         <description>Name: Marty Visto
Email: mvisto@drtel.net
Hi Mylo,
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31880</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>JD 750 drill vs. Great Plains/Sunflower
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31882</link>
         <description>Name: Steve GroffSubject: JD 750 drill vs. Great Plains/Sunflower
Email: sgroff@epix.net
I&#039;ve used a JD 750 drill for years and have had great success with it. The only disadvantage I know is when I plant shallow seeded crops- like alfalfa and there is alot of residue present. The opening disks need to be set an inch or deeper to cut thru residue and then the seed is planted too deep. In this situation, having a coulter up front to cut the residue and then set the opening disk to seeding depth would be a better setup I think. Even in seeding small grains with tremendous residue I think I am getting more hairpinning then I should. But do other drills (Great Plains or Sunflower) have the ruggedness and residue flow of the JD 750?
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         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Reply to JD 750 drill vs. Great Plains/Sunflower
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31883</link>
         <description>Name: jeff
Email: wherls@hotmail.com
steve,
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Reply to JD 750 drill vs. Great Plains/Sunflower
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31884</link>
         <description>Name: Dave McLaughlin
Email: mcdapa@pa.net
I&#039;ve used both the JD 750 and the Great Plains (both were 10&#039; drills).  The Great Plains has both the ruggedness and residue flow I think you need.  When the soil is moist and in nice shape, I like the no-till colter of the Great Plains tilling the soil ahead of my shallow seeded crops. I&#039;ve used both bubble and the Great Plains Turbo colter on the drill.  The Turbo would be my preference between the two.  The only advantage of the 750 is when the soil is really dry and hard.  Try and find someone close who might have a Great Plains for you to try.  
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         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31884</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Planter jerk
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31886</link>
         <description>Name: JohnSubject: Planter jerk
Email: jrlk@evertek.net
I am planning to put a piston pump for starter on the
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31886</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Planter jerk
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31887</link>
         <description>Name: Dave
Email: dgbmann@poweruser.com
John, I use a Small Two Piston Pump for Pop-up Starter, With my Comp-u-Trol 2 {Big John} Hyd. Drive. NO problem, in fact I have a more Even stand now than I ever did using all those Drive Chains! This is on a 7100 8rw. Good Luck! Dave
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         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31887</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Planter jerk
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31888</link>
         <description>Name: Bob
Email: 
Looked up &quot;Planter Jerk&quot; in my Websters and got some definitions:
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
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      <item>
         <title>JD single disc fertilizer opener 
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31890</link>
         <description>Name: Good Ole Kentucky BoySubject: JD single disc fertilizer opener 
Email: 
Looking for 8 JD single disc dry fertilizer openers or a dealer that sells these used for a JD 7000 planter. 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31890</guid>
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         <title>Reply to JD single disc fertilizer opener 
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31891</link>
         <description>Name: jeff
Email: wherls@hotmail.com
the j.d. single disc are made for a 3x3 bar.. also the bar in front of a 7000 slopes closer to the ground,, which they wont work without fabrication....
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         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Reply to JD single disc fertilizer opener 
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31892</link>
         <description>Name: Good Ole Kentucky Boy
Email: 
Which single disc fertilizer opener would you recommend for a 7000 planter??  My current two disc opener seems to disturb the ground too much.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Reply to JD single disc fertilizer opener 
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31893</link>
         <description>Name: Kevin
Email: Npkkreed@hotmail.com
  Good Ole Boy, 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
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         <title>Reply to JD single disc fertilizer opener 
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31894</link>
         <description>Name: Good Ole Kentucky Boy
Email: 
Is there any place you can get used single disc openers??? 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31894</guid>
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         <title>Reply to JD single disc fertilizer opener 
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31895</link>
         <description>Name: Jim Coady
Email: farmcom@kanokla.net
You might try Dave,,he&#039;s helped me with some items in the past,,,,here&#039;s his address......David and/or Kris Moeller
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31895</guid>
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         <title>Reply to JD single disc fertilizer opener 
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31896</link>
         <description>Name: Garth McNary
Email: mcnary1@main-net.com
The way I found a good set of single disc openers was just cruising all the farm sales right now.  I just recently bought a set and am going to mount them on a 7000, I use dry so I bought the cast tube/side knife to convert them to dry.  My old single discs were homemade and threw too much dirt so I ran them 4 1/2&quot; off row.  I put on 200 lb. of 50-23-30.  Does anybody know if I could move the opener closer to the row and not get any burn.  
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31896</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to JD single disc fertilizer opener 
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31897</link>
         <description>Name: Marty Visto
Email: mvisto@drtel.net
Hi Gary,
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31897</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to JD single disc fertilizer opener 
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31898</link>
         <description>Name: jeff
Email: wherls@hotmail.com
There are a couple different aftermarket coulters that you could use,, Yetter makes several different kinds, gp also makes a single disc opener..What ever opener you use, i would recommend to raise your current fert bar on your jd planter,, bring it up level with the main frame,, makes a lot more travel for what ever coulter you use...
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31898</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Trench blowout
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31900</link>
         <description>Name: Dan - sw mnSubject: Trench blowout
Email: tfarm@mnns.com
  I am having trouble with trench blowout with my greatplains center pivot drill. Does anyone have any suggestions to solve this problem? Have heard of heave limiters, but don&#039;t know who makes them. Has anyone used them, and do they work very well?  Thanks!!
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31900</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Trench blowout
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31901</link>
         <description>Name: Kevin
Email: npkkreed@hotmail.com
  Dan,
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31901</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Trench blowout
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31902</link>
         <description>Name: Jim Coady
Email: farmcom@kanokla.net
So you still think I need the &quot;Sunflower&quot; heave limiters on my CB drill, eh?  I still think, maybe I&#039;d be better off with just selling it(grin).
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31902</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to Trench blowout
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31903</link>
         <description>Name: Joe
Email: 
What is trench blowout?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31903</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title> SDX30 Case-IH No-Till Air Drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31905</link>
         <description>Name: BradSubject:  SDX30 Case-IH No-Till Air Drill
Email: 
I am considering going 100 percent no-till.  I raise wheat, milo,soybeans,corn,and sunflowers.  I was wandering if anybody has had some experience with the sdx30 drill.  I also wandered about the Great Plains precision seeding drill.  Where it singulates seeds a person could use it for everything if it would work?  Any comments on these two drills would be apppreciated.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31905</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to  SDX30 Case-IH No-Till Air Drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31906</link>
         <description>Name: Marty Visto
Email: mvisto@drtel.net
Hi Brad,
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31906</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to  SDX30 Case-IH No-Till Air Drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31907</link>
         <description>Name: Ritchie
Email: rstarn@wwwebservice.net
Marty,
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31907</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to  SDX30 Case-IH No-Till Air Drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31908</link>
         <description>Name: Marty Visto
Email: mvisto@drtel.net
Hi Ritchie,
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31908</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to  SDX30 Case-IH No-Till Air Drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31909</link>
         <description>Name: Ritchie
Email: rstarn@wwwebservice.net
Marty, 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31909</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to  SDX30 Case-IH No-Till Air Drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31910</link>
         <description>Name: Ed Winkle
Email: ffa@erinet.com
Great explanation, Marty.  I have heard about the same things, and it is interesting what you observe on the advantages with the Keeton Seedfirmers.  I think more and more people will see the advantages of this drill.  One of my students dads just bought one, and the President of the www.nacdnet.org Mr. Read Smith in Washington state is the first person I met who owns one.  He agrees with your observations, Marty.  Thanks again for your good informaton on this post.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31910</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to  SDX30 Case-IH No-Till Air Drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31911</link>
         <description>Name: D Myers
Email: MYERSFARMS@AOL
Marty..
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31911</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to  SDX30 Case-IH No-Till Air Drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31912</link>
         <description>Name: Brad Jeffery
Email: 
The SDX30 drill with 7.5 spacing weighs 24000 by itself. Depending on which size cart you get there is another 8-10 thousand pounds empty.  I am considering the 360 bushel cart. I figured the loaded weight of the cart plus the drill would be around 56000.  I would be pulling this rig with a 9300 four wheel drive.  If a guy has fairly flat ground he could pull it with a big front wheel assist.  I ran a 1860 last fall with a tow behind cart and was using a 835 Versatile.  When I headed down hill the cart shoved pretty hard on the drill.  Any other thoughts on tractor sizes?  I quess 250 horse is enough if the tractor weighs enough.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31912</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to  SDX30 Case-IH No-Till Air Drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31913</link>
         <description>Name: Marty Visto
Email: mvisto@drtel.net
Hi,
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31913</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to  SDX30 Case-IH No-Till Air Drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31914</link>
         <description>Name: Bob
Email: 
Marty, I see you traded your 750 JD because of &quot;mud&quot;.  We&#039;re all familiar with your earlier posts about &quot;the planter from Hell&quot;, the problems with your CaseIH 900 because of .....mud.  I don&#039;t mean to pick on you but how can you afford to trade equipment everytime it gets dirty?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31914</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to  SDX30 Case-IH No-Till Air Drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31915</link>
         <description>Name: Marty Visto
Email: mvisto@drtel.net
Hi,
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31915</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Hagny closing wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31917</link>
         <description>Name: TimSubject: Hagny closing wheels
Email: bil1_58413@yahoo.com
Can anyone tell me where I can obtain prices on Hagny closing wheels?  Are there any pictures of these on the internet?  I&#039;ve gathered from earlier posts that the angle is considerably different from other closing wheels.  Is there anything else different?  Do they work better on some types of planters than others?  What about soil conditions and high residue?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31917</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Hagny closing wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31918</link>
         <description>Name: mike in sw mn
Email: mhewitt@rconnect.com
It is in the dec issue.  for info contact Exapta solutions at 785-820-8000 or P.O. box952, Salina KS  67402.  Bestway to describe is a length of 3/4 x 1 1/2 inch strap iron that bolts to each side of old pivot point and comes back and is angled to set the spoked wheels on a 50degree angle. Each side is independent of the other and one side is longer than the other by what looks to be 4-6 inches.  I am just going by what I see in the picture and what is in the article.  Looks to me to be nearly impossible to plug unless the wheels wrap up with something.  Let us know what you find out. 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31918</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Hagny closing wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31919</link>
         <description>Name: mike in sw mn
Email: mhewitt@rconnect.com
Just called them and got prices and some info.  Price is 165 plus you need a May-Wes spoked closing wheels at 130 a pair for a total of 295 for a JD7200 planter. He did not reccomend them for conventional till because thet can go to deep and disturb the seed but for no-til they work fine.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31919</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Hagny closing wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31920</link>
         <description>Name: Ken
Email: sommerk@bright.net
Try this www.exapta.com
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31920</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Hagny closing wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31921</link>
         <description>Name: Louis Ehlers
Email: ehlers@southwind.net
I tried the Hagny HCS on two row of my JD 7200 8-row planter in 2000. It now has all 8 rows with the Hagny HCS closing arm with Maywes wheels &amp; Keetons! Yes they did very well in heavy residue, wet or dry. www.exapta.com
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31921</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Heave Limiters
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31923</link>
         <description>Name: JackSubject: Heave Limiters
Email: 
Does anyone have a picture of heave limiters?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31923</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Heave Limiters
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31924</link>
         <description>Name: Kevin
Email: npkkreed@hotmail.com
  Jack,  That is a reasonable request.  I wish I could show you pictures of a GP or CB with them but I&#039;m technologically challanged.  To see a picture go to sunflower-mfg.com.  Click on products, then planters, then opener choices.  The picture is not worth very many words but it looks the same on all double disc openers.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31924</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Heave Limiters
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31925</link>
         <description>Name: Ed Winkle
Email: ffa@erinet.com
Let&#039;s see if I can get this link to work at www.sunflower-mfg.com/openers.htm
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31925</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Heave Limiters
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31926</link>
         <description>Name: swNEBR
Email: jcramer@csb.swnebr.net
I wasn&#039;t aware that Crustbuster ever sold any heave limiter attachment. I saw some experimental ones but nothing I knew of ever came of them. 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31926</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Heave Limiters
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31927</link>
         <description>Name: Kevin
Email: npkkreed@hotmail.com
  Dale,
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31927</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Heave Limiters
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31928</link>
         <description>Name: Mark
Email: 
What is the purpose of heave limiters?  Mark
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31928</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Heave Limiters
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31929</link>
         <description>Name: swNEBR
Email: jcramer@csb.swnebr.net
Kevin,
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31929</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to Heave Limiters
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31930</link>
         <description>Name: Kevin
Email: npkkreed@hotmail.com
 Mark,
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31930</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>JD 1780 8 corn 15 soy
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31932</link>
         <description>Name: Rod MartenSubject: JD 1780 8 corn 15 soy
Email: marten@dtgnet.com
Does any one have any experience using a JD 1780 with interplant units? I now have a JD 7000 with all the no-till attachments for corn and a 20&#039; 750 drill for beans. I was considering tradin both for a planter like this.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31932</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to JD 1780 8 corn 15 soy
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31933</link>
         <description>Name: Ron
Email: trf@netnitco.net
Rod,We have 1780,15in planter for planting soybeans.We had  750 drill for 2years.Went for depth control &amp; population control.The only thing we don&#039;t like about it is transporting down road,is width.We are pulling it with a  8440.With no tanks up front, it makes the hitch lite.  It is a nice planter.We felt,we saved enough in seed to pay for it over the drill.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31933</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to JD 1780 8 corn 15 soy
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31934</link>
         <description>Name: Rod
Email: marten@dtgnet.com
How big of tractor do you need? Was yours just a 15 row with 15&quot; spacing? I was hoping to use a 7510 to pull it but wanted to add liquid tanks for corn. Do they mount more on the front to balance it out? Thanks for the info though. Rod
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31934</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to JD 1780 8 corn 15 soy
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31935</link>
         <description>Name: Ron
Email: trf@netnitco.net
Rod, It should handle it, with no tanks on it.It makes the back end heavy.7510 should handle it.Ask about tongue kit if that tractor needs it.I hope, I gave you the information you needed.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31935</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>sharpening coulters to get them to penet
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31937</link>
         <description>Name: Paul SchaffertSubject: sharpening coulters to get them to penet
Email: info@schaffert.com
The question was asked at the No-till conference this January in one of the round tables on how do you get a No-till drill to penetrate in hard ground.  The question was about a J.D. 750.  I had a farmer call in from North Dakota yesterday and as we talked about the Rebounders he wanted to mount on his drill the sharpening of the coulters come up and he said he has sharpened his and it really makes the drill cut in better in hard heavy trashy soils.  He has a 15&#039; J.D.750 drill.  He lifts the drill up on both ends (be sure to block the drill up so it doesn&#039;t fall) then he takes a disc roller under it and sharpens the large single disc.  He doesn&#039;t disassemble anything on the drill to do this.  When the discs get dull they don&#039;t cut in as well and they tend to ride up and over trash.  We have also done this to other planters and drills on our farm and it makes them work very well.  It even extends the life of the disc.  Also never go deeper on the disc with the disc roller than about 1/2&quot; because much deeper it can warp the blade.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31937</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to sharpening coulters to get them to penet
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31938</link>
         <description>Name: Dean
Email: 
What is a disc roller?   TIA   Dean
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31938</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>chain guards
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31940</link>
         <description>Name: TimSubject: chain guards
Email: buda@macatawa.com
I am setting up a JD7000 planter. Where can I find chain guards for the main drive chaines.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31940</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to chain guards
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31941</link>
         <description>Name: Stu
Email: 
Your Deere dealer has them for 7200&#039;s.Think they&#039;re the same for 7000.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31941</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to chain guards
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31942</link>
         <description>Name: craig
Email: 
  May Wes also sells chain guards for about $15 a row. Check out their web page.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31942</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>chaff spreader for a Gleaner
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31944</link>
         <description>Name: RandallSubject: chaff spreader for a Gleaner
Email: randall@msinter.net
I have a 1979 L2 Gleaner and I&#039;ve been in no-till for 4 years and I need a chaff spreader.  My combine does not have a hydralic reel which all chaff spreaders I&#039;ve found run off of.  Does anybody out there have a simialr combine with a chaff spreader?  Please inform me.  Thanks!!
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31944</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to chaff spreader for a Gleaner
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31945</link>
         <description>Name: Ed Winkle
Email: ffa@erinet.com
Mayer Farm Equipment would know at Wilmington and Washington Court House, Ohio.  They have sold many L combines and have many for parts.  They might even have a spreader.  Another place to look is Marvin Gordon&#039;s www.harvesting.com website, go to the combine talk show and read the Gleaner page.  To post you have to email Marvin and get a password but it is no problem.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31945</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to chaff spreader for a Gleaner
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31946</link>
         <description>Name: alan
Email: eag3@yahoo.com
There are companys that sell belt driven chaff spreaders. If
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31946</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to chaff spreader for a Gleaner
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31947</link>
         <description>Name: Dean
Email: 
I believe it&#039;s a Koehn.  I couldn&#039;t find the paperwork.  It is belt driven off of the staw walkers on the right side of the machine.  This was the first thing we did when we started no tilling.  I think it&#039;s a good idea no mater if you till or not!
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31947</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to chaff spreader for a Gleaner
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31948</link>
         <description>Name: Scott
Email: ssloan@bright.net
I put a hydraulic chaff spreader on a Massey combine without A hydraulic reel.  I tapped into the return on the steering valve. It has worked for 8 yrs. Scott 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31948</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to chaff spreader for a Gleaner
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31949</link>
         <description>Name: Larry
Email: brunnerlw@yahoo.com
I installed a spreader on a M3 Gleaner by tapping into the power steering return. You will need to put the speed valve in a convenient place as the spreader will run whenever the engine runs if the valve is open. I had no problem with the steering except when roading while the valve was open.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31949</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to chaff spreader for a Gleaner
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31950</link>
         <description>Name: John W
Email: 
J E Love used to make a chaff spreader for Gleaners here in the PNW that was belt driven, but I don&#039;t think it is made any more. Love was taken over by Coombs Mfg (http://www.coombsmfg.com/ but I don&#039;t think they are into Chaff spreaders either. The Love spreader looked like 4 radiator fans in a row, two blew each way and the common shaft the turned the fans was belt driven.  You might try checking with Blue Mountain Ag in Lewiston Idaho and see if they might have one laying around somewhere (1-208-746-6447).
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31950</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>1850 Drill Disks
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31952</link>
         <description>Name: Neil KramerSubject: 1850 Drill Disks
Email: kraml@buffalocity.net
Are after market disks for this drill as long lasting as the  original John Deere disks,because they are a little less money.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31952</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to 1850 Drill Disks
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31953</link>
         <description>Name: Jeff
Email: jswalton92@hotmail.com
I tried them and think that the aftermarket ones lasted about the same.  Nichols was the brand I bought and seemed to perform just as good and mabey last just a bit longer.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31953</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>new discs for CB no-till drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31955</link>
         <description>Name: randall Subject: new discs for CB no-till drill
Email: randall@msinter.net
Has anyone recently bought discs for a CB notill drill.  I&#039;ve been told it&#039;s as much as 69.00 per disc which includes the hub and bearing.  Anybody else out there received a better deal?
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31955</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to new discs for CB no-till drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31956</link>
         <description>Name: swNEBR
Email: jcramer@csb.swnebr.net
They are $50.50 for the notched blade and $48.50 for the smooth blade from Shoup. Ph # 1-800-627-6137. That is for the complete assembly of hub, bearings, and blade.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31956</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to new discs for CB no-till drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31957</link>
         <description>Name: Kevin
Email: npkkreed@hotmail.com
 Randall,
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31957</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to new discs for CB no-till drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31958</link>
         <description>Name: swNEBR
Email: 
Kevin&#039;s right. That is how I did mine this time. Takes some time to get all the rivets out but from now on it will just be bolts which go on and off fairly quick. 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31958</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>Reply to new discs for CB no-till drill
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31959</link>
         <description>Name: Jim Coady
Email: farmcom@kanokla.net
Kevin, 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31959</guid>
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      <item>
         <title>750A
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31961</link>
         <description>Name: MartinSubject: 750A
Email: 
Can anyone tell me how often you need to change the little plastic strip on the bottom of the seed boot.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31961</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to 750A
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31962</link>
         <description>Name: Jerry
Email: jerrystk@hotmail.com
I dont know if it makes a difference if they are there or not.  But I get around 500 acres out of a set then change them.  They only cost about a dollar a piece so it is worth it if they do any thing.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31962</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>row cleaners
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31964</link>
         <description>Name: CraigSubject: row cleaners
Email: 
  I have found some yetter/JD row cleaners for sale at a local JD dealer. I have also found some used Martin&#039;s for sale too. I hear that the Martin&#039;s are real good and built solid. The yetter&#039;s are cheaper because they came off a planter that the owner wanted removed. I hear that the yetter&#039;s are a lot of trouble and not worth purchasing. I would like to hear thoughts on the two types before I make a decision on which to go with. Let me hear your thoughts.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31964</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to row cleaners
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31965</link>
         <description>Name: jeff
Email: wherls@hotmail
craig, the martins are made for tilling the soil,, that is the reason that they are heavier than the yetter.. the problem is that if you use them for tillage, they throw the soil out of the seed trench,, also the extra weight is a concern,, since it is mounted right on you seed unit.. yetters are just what they say, residue managers,, not a tillage tool,, hope this helps....
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31965</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to row cleaners
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31966</link>
         <description>Name: Conrad
Email: 
New to the net and ran across this site yesteday.  Imagine my surprise at learning a product I&#039;ve used for years with great results...is not worth purchasing.  I haven&#039;t had any trouble so maybe you should question further the guys who told you not to get them.  When I first started with the Yetter row cleaners I had then set too low but now I just set them to skim over the surface.  Like others, my problem is sometimes between the steering wheel and the seat. 
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31966</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>spaded closing wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31968</link>
         <description>Name: CraigSubject: spaded closing wheels
Email: 
    Is there any big difference between May-Wes and Martin closing wheels? Some like one over the other. I am getting ready to make a purchase and was wanting thoughts on each of these brands. Comments please.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31968</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to spaded closing wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31969</link>
         <description>Name: joe
Email: mkfarms@coastalnet.com
Craig,
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31969</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to spaded closing wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31970</link>
         <description>Name: Merritt a Seefeldt Jr
Email: seefeldt@itctel.com             
I have used the Maewies wheels for three years as spading wheels. I have never broken any of the plastic spades or plastic parts. What seems to happen to me is when I happen to turn with the planter lowered the Aluminum pueter hub that encases the bearing will break causing the wheel to be lost in the field. I think the same thing happened with the original Jd rubber closing wheels only that happened with out turning.Merritt
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31970</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to spaded closing wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31971</link>
         <description>Name: LEB
Email: 
I&#039;ve had Martins for several years and like them for the most part. The tines will plug up occassionally in sticky conditions.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31971</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to spaded closing wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31972</link>
         <description>Name: Kevin
Email: kevhrdy@netscape.net
 Has anyone here considered the closing disk that JS AG Innovations sells? They mount behind the disk openers on the closing wheel linkage. They allow you to keep the original closing wheels. Their brochure claims to close the seed trench while breaking up sidewall compaction. They would have the added benefit of working the soil around the seed trench so the soil should warm up faster. They have them for all types of planters. Their phone number is 800-400-2610. They sent me a brochure in 2 days.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31972</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to spaded closing wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31973</link>
         <description>Name: Cliff SEIA
Email: cornboy9@hotmail.com
Are those the little plastic discs?  If so we had some on our 7000 and they worked okay in perfect conditions but the rest of the time they were a constant problem.  The first were wore out the first year.  Then we got some replacements that were better but they still didn&#039;t work.  We had problems with bearings and the discs getting bent.  I think that they were too small, if they were bigger they would have roled through the soil instead of dragging.  Maybe somebody else has had better luck with them but from my experience I would say spend your money somewhere else.  P.S. If you want some I will sell you four pretty cheap.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31973</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to spaded closing wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31974</link>
         <description>Name: kevin
Email: 
 The closing disk I am refering to are steel disk using 404 bearings. I think you might be refering to the closing wheel Scaffert mfg. sells. A picture of what I was refering to can be found in the January 2001 issue of &quot;Soybean Digest&quot;. (page 57) Since I havent tried them I don&#039;t know if they will perform as advertized, But in theory I believe they should be a superior closing system compaired to stock or the other closing systems mentioned.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31974</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to spaded closing wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31975</link>
         <description>Name: Kevin
Email: 
 I meant to type 204 bearings.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31975</guid>
      </item>
      <item>
         <title>Reply to spaded closing wheels
</title>
         <link>http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/equipment-archive.php#post31976</link>
         <description>Name: herb
Email: hshaffer@wichita,infi.net
I&#039;ve used the J S Ag. closing disc/wheels for several years.  They&#039;re definately supior in no-til than the originals and they also work with tillage, just don&#039;t put much pressure on them.  I&#039;m thinking of trying something different because they buildup on the inside in wet clay soils.
</description>
         <pubDate>Wed, 15 Sep 2004 13:01:16 -0500</pubDate>
         <guid isPermaLink="false">31976</guid>
   