http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/ The latest news from No-Till Farmer, http://www.no-tillfarmer.com. en-us http://blogs.law.harvard.edu/tech/rss Envision IT Forum System Copyright 2009 Envision Information Technologies, http://www.envisionitllc.com 60 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post35968 Mark,  We run an 8820 w/ a 1242 corn head in both dryland & irrigated corn & have never used them.  They do certainly reduce the capacity of the combine if you leave them in place for other crops.  They might make it a little eaiser to get a clean shell on the cob, but they are such a pain to put in & take out each time, I feel that they are not worth it for any reasonably normal corn shelling condition.    Grant Wed, 08 Sep 2010 21:49:44 -0500 35968 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post35967 Amy, I would hope so.   I pulled a 15' John Deere 750 w/ a 80 HP Case 930 & got along fine.  Grant Wed, 08 Sep 2010 21:40:42 -0500 35967 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post35966 How much tractor HP is needed to pull a 15' Krause 5250 planter? We have CASE JX95 w/ 95 HP ... wondering if that will get the job done w/ this specific planter. Sat, 04 Sep 2010 17:42:46 -0500 35966 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post35965 We had a 7720 that we ran with filler plates for the first 2 or 3 years. I "Stuekelized" the whole machine in the mid 80's, but the part that concerns the filler plates was the cylinder. I re worked the concave so it was perfectly round and true (no one was building them that way back then, so I had to do my own) and we junked the filler plates at the same time. Replaced the machine with a 9500, never had the filler plates installed on that one. In fact, still have them leaning agaisnt a wall out back. Bad thing about filler plates is that they don't easily lend themselves to other uses. Anyway, I wouldn't run them. We never needed them, we ran corn moistures anywhere from dry to 30% w/o the filler plates.  Tue, 31 Aug 2010 18:27:12 -0500 35965 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post35964 I recently purchased a 7720 that was primarily used for wheat.  The previous owner removed the filler plates between the rasp bars.  I'm using it for corn this year and I have the filler plates to install, but have heard on other combines (Gleaner) they harvest corn better without them.  The owners manual recommends they be installed but I'm wondering if anyone out there, has or had a 20 series combine and harvested corn without the filler plates installed. Tue, 31 Aug 2010 14:30:35 -0500 35964 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post35963 has anybody planted wheat with a JD 1790? what type of plates and settings did you use? Mon, 30 Aug 2010 12:47:56 -0500 35963 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post35959 Has anyone ever used one of these min till pieces of equipment?  If so, how do you like it?  Would it kick me out of the carbon credit program if I used one? Thu, 19 Aug 2010 22:16:08 -0500 35959 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post35956 Has anyone used the May Wes Chaff Spreaders on a Case IH 1680?  How far and how even do they spread the chaff? Wed, 04 Aug 2010 23:24:07 -0500 35956 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post35948 Wondering which brand of row cleaner is best ? Martin? Yetter Shark tooth? An experience or advice would be appreciated Thanks Tim Fichtel   Thu, 08 Jul 2010 12:07:00 -0500 35948 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post35947 Matt thanks for the information. I have heard that Case IH has a real good product. At dealers that seel both Cash IH and Knize the red is now out selling the blue.   Tim Fichtel Fri, 25 Jun 2010 07:29:22 -0500 35947 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post35946 Tim,      Would definitely look at the Case IH. It's a planter that properly calibrated is more accurate than even the Precision Setup is in most cases. The closing system does a good job of promotin seed to soil contact without packing the trench. Consistently in western Illinois the red plantes get the crop up two to three days ahead of the blue and green. JMHO the decision as always is yours. Tue, 22 Jun 2010 15:58:47 -0500 35946 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post35945 Looking at a new planter and wondering what brand? Leaning towards Kinzefinger pickup. But what are other folks experience with CaseIH? White? don't mention John Deere have one now hate it had Kinze before and  had good luck. Have the Martin Set up now on the John Deere would probably put that on any new planter I bought. So anyone have any advice or experience? Thanks Tim Fichtel   Mon, 14 Jun 2010 14:39:00 -0500 35945 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post35944 Im building a toolbar for sidedressing 28%. Would like to here from anyone using the yetter magnum fertilizer coulters. Are they worth the price? Fri, 11 Jun 2010 22:33:09 -0500 35944 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post35941 We use this arraingment on our planter and like it very much.We plant in every condition you can imagine. River silt bottom and stony gravel to no-till sod. We need to use very little down pressure and have never had a trench open on us. I do agree that sometimes corn plants dont line up perfect though. Love the Martins spikes Sun, 23 May 2010 18:58:48 -0500 35941 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post35940 I have used this set up for the past three years and have never regretted doing it.  I use it on no-till and minimum till without needing to make any adjustments.  It seems to crumble the soil, rather than press it in hard.  Sometimes if the soil is just a bit wet, two solid wheels will set things up for the soil to crust over.  I followed the wisdom that the rubber wheel will firm up the soil and limit the chance for the soil to "wick" dry; but the spike will fracture the soil and allow easy emergence.  I set the down pressure on my Kinze's closing wheel arms to the first position, so there is little down pressure.  One thing I did notice is that the plants do not line up exactly down the row.  Maybe this is caused by the corn plant finding a fracture to emerge through or the seed being moved a tiny bit.  This is just an observation that has not made any difference to us.  We also added the Martin chains to run behind the closing wheels.  This has worked well and helps to leave the surface loose and maybe help cover any seeds that need just a bit more soil over them. Wed, 19 May 2010 15:47:32 -0500 35940 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post35939 we would like to roll or cultipack  after drilling.  Am concerned that the residue might be to tight  and hurt emergence?? Would like to set stones some and breakup root balls. using CPH drill  Thanks Dick Wed, 19 May 2010 05:50:29 -0500 35939 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post35938 I would like input on using one spading closing wheel and one rubber closing wheel for no-tilling. Any thoughts on whether to use them and how to set them up on my planter would be appreciated. Mon, 17 May 2010 15:42:33 -0500 35938 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post35937 Looking at new planter. Have been using martin row cleaners with gauge wheels, like what they do but short life. What do people think of Kinze shark tooth verses martin floating cleaners Sun, 16 May 2010 21:48:52 -0500 35937 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post35936 What worked for me was to run a crop roller over the stalks to make them directional. This does not severe the stocks. A crop roller runs the same way you're planting and keeps them from jamming the equipment. This also saves the tires. Sun, 09 May 2010 10:40:47 -0500 35936 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post35932 We put it down in the furrow with the supplied tube on the planter and the drill. Tue, 04 May 2010 19:53:18 -0500 35932 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post35930 We have run yetter on Case IH 1200 series, had used thier sharks tooth but went back to spike ooth and went from rigid mount to floating bracket and for 2010 we added depth bands so we could let them float. have not looked at stands as of yet but the only conditions we found so far that they jumped a little to much were worked wheat stubble, We also use gerrinhoff roto disc and have done some soybean planting into standing cornstalks, disced cornstalks and into conservation tiled ground they seem to have handled all these situations, also tryed into unworked soybean stubble seemed to work. Sat, 01 May 2010 19:59:37 -0500 35930 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post35928 Will the Yetter all steer work with a 12 row 3600 Kinze planter? A 3 wheel cart works well, but the turns are tight for a 4 wheel cart, it seems to me.  Are there 1000 gal + 3 wheel carts available?  What is your experience with the Yetter?  Does it have enough front axle pivot to navigate waterways? Sat, 01 May 2010 06:19:30 -0500 35928 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post35926 I am using the splitter also. I like the idea of putting the fert. on either side of the seed. Thu, 22 Apr 2010 10:44:34 -0500 35926 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post35924 We use the y to put it down both sides Wed, 21 Apr 2010 20:27:00 -0500 35924 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post35919 I have the same planter with yetters on the corn rows. They work great. We took off the coulters and run just the row cleaner. when we plant beans into corn we lift the cleaners. It is important to wait until the fodder is on the dry side and/or the ground temps are warm to plant beans. If you plant the beans early you run the risk of significant slug damage. Yetter does have row cleaner avaiable for the split rows but I don't think it is necessary. Here in South East PA we don't lose bean yeild until the 15 of May. Thu, 08 Apr 2010 12:25:10 -0500 35919 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post35916 I haven't seen that Jason but won't say it can't work.  Some people can make anything work.  Just finished putting the spaders on ever 15 inch row, those rows were so much better last year.  Maybe I can get a picture of it on here. Thu, 25 Mar 2010 00:24:39 -0500 35916 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post35912 need some help. Will a single stock closing wheel and a martin 15" spiked wheel work while planting soybeans? Concern is the difference in size of the two wheels. Seems to me that the spiked wheel will be runninng deeper than the seed. Thanks Guys Fri, 19 Mar 2010 07:42:09 -0500 35912 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post35909 Those of you who run pop up through keeton's, are you guys using the tube with the  splitter to apply product on both sides of the seed furrow or the tube that puts product directly on top of the seed. Mon, 15 Mar 2010 19:30:37 -0500 35909 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post35906 The opening disk bevel is toward the seed boot. Another item you may want ot consider is the newer 60 and 90 series closing wheel bearing location. www.shoupparts.com or www.tsrparts.com , I fought the bearing in the cast iron closing wheel for years. Other than that I think it's a great drill.     Fri, 12 Mar 2010 13:38:15 -0600 35906 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post35905 What can I put in front of my JD 7200 planter units to keep cornstalks from jamming into every bracket and moniter wiring on the planter while I no-till into standing cornstalks? Wed, 10 Mar 2010 13:19:50 -0600 35905 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post35903 I'm looking for the best all around closing wheel setup.  I have bottom ground that is black and sticky when wet and mellow hills and a little red clay that is hard to close the gap on.  I'm considering the cast tapered closing wheels or a spiked closing wheel but don't have enough info other than sales pitches. Thanks for the feed back. Tue, 09 Mar 2010 12:07:21 -0600 35903 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post35902 I just bought a used John Deere 750 no-till drill. the opening disks were worn down past the bevel. I'm am replacing all of the disks but I'm not sure which way the bevel should face. Sould the bevel be facing the seed boot or the gauge wheel or does it make any difference. Any advice would be appreciated. Sat, 06 Mar 2010 12:46:11 -0600 35902 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post35900 Are the turbo coulters worth the extra money? Fri, 05 Mar 2010 12:25:18 -0600 35900 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post35895 I had bought a used 6100 with the frame mount coulters. We had no problem with them this last spring. I did find that the previous owner had set them way to deep. It looked like he was dragging trash with the coulter. I have found that the coulter shouldn't run as deep as you plant in my soil type. A plus of the frame mount coulter are that they do not make the row unit ride up if they hit something and they do not wear out the linkage on the row unit. Mon, 15 Feb 2010 20:53:20 -0600 35895 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post35891 I was reading about the location of the fertilizer placement on these.  I guess they set just next to the seed tube.  Looks to me like that might mess up seed placement and make some vibration.  Just curious. Tue, 09 Feb 2010 21:22:49 -0600 35891 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post35890 I am wanting to put on 32% with the planter 2x2.  any suggestions-am I better off to knife it in with a coulter/knife setup, or will it be just as effective put on with a tube infront of my row cleaner. Sun, 07 Feb 2010 17:46:20 -0600 35890 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post35889 We want to purchase a no-till planter. We have been trying to find a source of no-till planters that transplant and seed through a killed cover crop. Do you have any suggestions? Posted on behalf of Walter J. Haas Fri, 05 Feb 2010 10:20:51 -0600 35889 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post35888 We are just converting to notill and we'll be doing it on corn, soybeans and wheat.  Looking to add trash whippers to an older 7000 John Deere planter.   What do you like about the sunco?  Performance, reliability or maybe price? Thu, 04 Feb 2010 08:21:20 -0600 35888 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post35885 i have a pull bar on my 8300 that bolts to the fram in the front, then the weights bracket is bolted on to it.  For the past two years i have put a 100 gal tank on each side of the front and thats where i put my pop-up. i also take the weights off when i do this Tue, 02 Feb 2010 21:41:01 -0600 35885 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post35884 wondering if anyone has any coments on the shark tooth whips. we notill into corn, beans, and wheat stubble. Have been using martins with good luck. Getting a new kinze split row and am looking to put them on every row. I have been told the shark tooth is a good one but just wanted to see if i could hear some more about it or anything else out thare. thanks all Mon, 01 Feb 2010 15:10:42 -0600 35884 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post35883 We have a case ih 1200 planter. We use a gerringhoff rotodisk corn head. Are there any row cleaners that would work well for us? We'd like to go continuous no-till corn and beans alternating every year. Please help me with any info you may have. Thanks! Sat, 30 Jan 2010 19:53:05 -0600 35883 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post35882 When you say strip till units are you talking about a strip till bar or a planter attachment? Fri, 29 Jan 2010 20:24:38 -0600 35882 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post35881 Do you know who builds strip-till units with trash-cutting coulters mounted slightly ahead of the trash cutting wheels, similar to a Dawn 1572 combination coulter trash wheel unit? We have a lot of interest in strip-till among vegetable and pumpkin producers around Claverack, N.Y. Posted for Stu Kinne at skinne@columbiatractor.com Wed, 27 Jan 2010 13:29:16 -0600 35881 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post35879 I have a JD 8420T tractor I use for corn planting.  I have two saddle tanks but would like to increase my capacity with a front mounted tank.  I know they say not to do it, but has someone done it successfully? Sun, 24 Jan 2010 19:09:15 -0600 35879 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post35870 Hey Joe,   I run a Kinze 2700 planter on 20" rows with the kinze coulter/floating row cleaner combo. My planter units are staggered 9" to allow for trash flow. It works well, but in heavy residue it does plug occasionally. Especially if you've had any trash floated into piles by standing water etc. I would take a close look at the martin narrow row row cleaner, I have not had the opportunity to try them but I have heard of others having good results. Wed, 06 Jan 2010 21:29:52 -0600 35870 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post35844 How many rows and what spacing do you have? Sun, 20 Dec 2009 08:34:28 -0600 35844 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post35802 Just purchased a White 5100 planter that is set up by the previous owner for no till.  The planter has a Factory Mounted Double Arm Coulter with 13" Yetter Spiked tooth trash whippers.  I've heard people removing their Coulters on other planters because of hair pinning issues.  Should I remove the frame mounted coulters completely and switch to the Yetter pin adjust mounts? Fri, 11 Dec 2009 07:44:45 -0600 35802 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post35794 Anybody out there having luck with lightbar guidance for planting (outback S2)?  Ordered one for next year.  How do you set the swath width, taking in consideration the guess row? Wed, 09 Dec 2009 14:57:25 -0600 35794 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post35790 Hi y'all!  New to the forum.  I am thinking about no-tilling my beans in next year and am in the market for some row cleaners.  I am on 20's with a rebuilt 7100 JD.  I have heard varying advice on whether or not to use the double or single wheel row cleaners.  I was informed that the two wheel designs "teepee" too much trash in between and the single row doesn't do enough.   Any advice would be much appreciated. ~Joe Wed, 09 Dec 2009 12:00:31 -0600 35790 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post35706 I think that is one of the biggest problems of farming.  Hardly anyone spreads the residue evenly and you end up banding the residue which contains fertilizer and affect the weed population.  We all need to do a better job.  Look at the Redekop as Phillip Needham says, anything but stock equipment.  No one does a good job. Wed, 18 Nov 2009 22:09:32 -0600 35706 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post35699 Our 9760 STS JD combine puts too much chaff in a 4-5 ft. strip directly behind the combine in wheat. The chaff escapes out the 2 grain loss moniter holes, the 2 side vent holes and the open strip on the bottom. A lot of it goes through the chopper and is spread but too much ends up forming a mat in a 4-5 ft strip. Any sugestions? Francis Mon, 16 Nov 2009 15:36:30 -0600 35699 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post35599 For low-disturbance continuous no-till, we have a lot of experience which is set forth on these pages:   http://exapta.com/knowledge/tipplanter.html   http://exapta.com/knowledge/seed_placement.html   http://exapta.com/products/rethinking_seeding.html   http://exapta.com/news/nws_mar09.pdf (pdf might take a few seconds to load; longer if your connection is slow; this particular newsletter covers many details of planter setup)   best regards,   --Matt Hagny, consulting agronomist since '94, founder of Exapta Solutions ('99).   Sun, 11 Oct 2009 05:35:20 -0500 35599 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post35598 To me it sounds like more of a problem with balance in the percent of base saturation of magnesium and calcium. Using an acid and a base together to keep from raising or lowering the pH may allow the potassium to be freed up and cause the "crops to explode." I would something like gypsum may be beneficial without seeing the soil test results. Fri, 09 Oct 2009 11:41:33 -0500 35598 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post35597 Over the winter months this past year, our farm made an 8 row 18 inch bean planter on the frame of a 4 row planter with a second beam set across the rear of the wheels. We mounted all 8 rows on the rear beam and put together with Acra Plant notched opener discs. It worked very well this spring in both no-till and conventional situations. Our biggest problem is creating the down pressure because we have not gained enough weight to spread across all 8 rows. Overall we are very pleased with the outcome and the stand of the crop though. Fri, 09 Oct 2009 11:32:32 -0500 35597 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29825 I have used haybuster, deere, great plains, tye, melroe, they are all fine. Crustbuster is pretty good if you get a 4000 model or newer. I don't have a favorite but I like Deere for Martinizing. Thu, 27 Aug 2009 21:31:00 -0500 29825 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29827 Does anyone out there have a SM 500 blockage only monitor on a 1990 no-till JD drill? We are having problems with the sensors getting wet and failing. Later, after they ride on my dashboard for a few days before I get John Deere to test them, then they test out okay. So at times, they are done for it; other times, I use them as troubleshooting replacements later when it rains and a few days later when we try to plant again, then for sure I'll have one or two act up again. We have tried sealants on connections, this helps alittle but not all the time. I finally complained enough on my newest 2nd machine that had the exact same problem and got the sensors all replaced with a newer version. So far, they work after a rain event. Time will tell, I really do not have much field time, yet. Norman Nelson Michigan Thu, 27 Aug 2009 17:21:14 -0500 29827 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29818 The responses to the Survey have been very Helpful but i could still use more. If you have not all ready taken the survey please just click on the above link in the earlier post, the survey only takes 3 MINUTES its very fast. Thanks Tue, 11 Aug 2009 16:26:16 -0500 29818 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29824 HI Dave, On our farm we cover crop corn using a Great plains 1006NT drill that we bought used. Does an excellent job . We don't plow much of anything as we are trying to go 100 percent no-till. we just had a field of rye combined for seed and straw.We also do pasture renovations with excellent results. The machine is quite simple and rugged. Much less matienence and complex than a john Deere seeder. ours cover 10 feet and I can easily keep up with self proppelled chopper.John Kemmeren.. Bainbridge NY Mon, 10 Aug 2009 14:44:14 -0500 29824 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29823 My nutient management plan (dairy farm) requires me to cover crop 250/300A corn ground, both silage and grain stubble. Small grains will be used. I am strip and no-tilling all my corn now. I can't imagine tilling all that land for a cover crop so I want to get a no-till drill. Dairying being what it is this year I need to go used. Being able to use this to seed alfalfa on lightly tilled(to level out) ground would be a plus. What is the best machine and what do I need to look for? Mon, 10 Aug 2009 12:45:50 -0500 29823 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29821 Matt Hagny of Exapta Solutions says don't use RID tires for just that reason. See http://www.exapta.com/knowledge/tipplanter.html I've never used RIDs myself. Mon, 10 Aug 2009 05:53:50 -0500 29821 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29820 another thing i found with my test unit was corn plants out of row. i supose i can say my clay ground lifted enough to let seeds fall under the tires. i found this in planting conditons that were wet to adequate moisture. is it safe to assume that this was caused by soils with high clay content? Sun, 09 Aug 2009 14:05:31 -0500 29820 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29817 I translated the questionnaire into an internet survey website. Here is the site: http://www.surveymonkey.com/s.aspx?sm=cRQnfiUCo0icBkUvrzfo9g_3d_3d Wed, 05 Aug 2009 09:35:14 -0500 29817 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29814 also, the row cleaners were the same across the whole planter. 13 wave coulters. Wed, 29 Jul 2009 19:59:42 -0500 29814 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29813 im not sure if the combine would have been the problem, i do my best to chop and distribute residue as evenly as possible, and it does a pretty good job. if the residue was not spread or chopped, why would those two rows be replicated throughout the field, wouldnt you think it would show on other rows where the residue path "creeps" under different planter units as the field is traversed? i just dont see a "field' problem here, being on the same two rows in the entire field. thanks for the input. i guess i still need to do some more digging, eh? Sun, 26 Jul 2009 21:52:40 -0500 29813 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29812 Yes that is true residue being enenly spread is very important. If their are just two rows dig up some plants and look what are you going to lose. Last year I planted some corn when it was wet. Had the down presure as light and had sidewall compaction. The corn roots grow in three derctions not free will. Just my two cents. Thu, 23 Jul 2009 06:17:28 -0500 29812 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29811 Yes that is true residue being enenly spread is very important. If their are just two rows dig up some plants and look what are you going to lose. Last year I planted some corn when it was wet. Had the down presure as light and had sidewall compaction. The corn roots grow in three derctions not free will. Just my two cents. Thu, 23 Jul 2009 06:17:27 -0500 29811 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29810 Ditto the fertilizer placement comment. I've seen corn like that when I had problems with a fertilizer unit. In my case it was a plugged unit. I've tried all sorts of placements from 2x2 to 0x5 and I don't see a lot of difference as long as the placement is something reasonable. I've also seen that with residue problems, either problems with a row cleaner or problems in getting the residue spread evenly behind the combine in the previous crop. Wed, 22 Jul 2009 19:27:35 -0500 29810 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29809 wouldnt you think there would be less sidewall compaction over the regular deere wheels? Wed, 22 Jul 2009 11:01:17 -0500 29809 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29816 I am a student at the University of Northern Iowa. For one of my market research classes I need to collect information through the use of a questionnaire. I decided to make up the questionnaire about self propelled sprayers because my family has been in farming, and I had some previous knowledge about self propelled sprayers. The only requirements to fill out the questionnaire are as follows: own a family farm, use any brand of self propelled sprayer. If you questions about answering the questionnaire you can e-mail me at bkinze@uni.edu I translated the questionnaire into an internet survey website. Here is the site: http://www.surveymonkey.com/s.aspx?sm=cRQnfiUCo0icBkUvrzfo9g_3d_3d Wed, 22 Jul 2009 09:44:04 -0500 29816 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29808 fert too close or too far away? ill check it this morning and see how different it is than the others, but i really dont think ill see a difference. one thing else ive noticed with that one row while cultivating.......plants growing off center of the row. could this be very well what exapta talks about with the bottom of the trench lifting allowing seeds to fall into the uplifted soil? possibly those RID wheels aint for me in wetter conditions. lighten up on the downpressure, let the weight of the boxes keep it in the ground and chop the dirt over the seed with the closers? would this be the way to combat compation issues without the RID tires? they do look cool, and it should work in thoery, just not in real life i guess. thank you for all the replies, your help with a new no tiller is greatly appreciated.getting no till to work is frustrating and addicting at the same time. Tue, 21 Jul 2009 06:01:47 -0500 29808 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29807 Hi, After looking at your photos, I can say that I have seen a lot of corn similar. Unfortunately it is almost always caused by improper fertilizer placement. This year being cold and wet has agravated the situation due to cold and wet and cloddy soils. I would look there first, because I cant understand why any of the improvements you made would hurt the appearance that much Thu, 16 Jul 2009 13:14:13 -0500 29807 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29806 one thing, i ran no spring pressure on that one closer, looked like it was closing well enough after i dug some seeds. Mon, 13 Jul 2009 05:54:00 -0500 29806 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29805 all of the disks were within 1/4 inch of each other and shimmed correctly. i change odd ones out here and there as they contact rocks and dent. the field with the most obvious problem had adequate mosture at planting depth, good conditions. in some of the wetter planting conditions, the stunted rows dont show up as much, but i still have alot of land left to scout, so well see. anyone know how to post pics here? id like everyone to see first hand. thanks for the help. would be interesting to get to the bottom of this. i really dont suspect that it is the dawn trashwheel as it looked like it did a fantastic job crumbling the soil over the trench. Mon, 13 Jul 2009 05:52:04 -0500 29805 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29804 ive got one unit that i set up for a test unit this year, i used a dawn trash wheel for a closer that was set up and worked well. i installed a keeton seed firmer on a new seed tube, new RID tires on the gaugers, new opener disks, with my original 13 wave no till coulters. this is a deere 1750 conservation, dry fertilizer. in my bean ground, the corn on those two rows together are considerably shorter. i seen no difference in corn on corn no till or conventionally tilled ground. what part of the system caused the shorter corn? Sun, 12 Jul 2009 16:23:02 -0500 29804 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29802 When the calender rolls to June with beans yet to plant as last year and this year we plant beans in wet ground and do not close the trench. This has worked extremely well as emergence has been almost perfect in horrible conditions(mud). That seed needs air to warm up and germ in mud. Placing seed in an unclosed, damp trench does this. This is not standard procedure! Desperate times only. Sun, 21 Jun 2009 23:02:31 -0500 29802 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29801 Many years ago before I became a no-till tragic I had a 24 ft. Aerway with a Phillips Prickle Chain attached. It did a pretty good job of ripping up thatched pasture, probably a little too aggressive in corn stalks. Sun, 21 Jun 2009 08:05:50 -0500 29801 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29800 The best practice that we have found around "here" is the leave the corn stalks standing in the fall. Then in the spring prior to planting run a rotary harrow over the stalks and a couple days later you are ready to plant. By leaving the stalks standing we have less residue on the ground in the spring. In the spring the soil dries quicker although not entirely even due to the stalks that are on the ground from last fall. The Phillips harrow takes care of that problem by only tilling the top inch of soil, shredding a lot of the remaining stalks (which are brittle) and fluffs the residue to promote even drying. Note that we generally will have sprayed a glyphosate/2,4d burndown in the spring several weeks prior to running the harrow. Sun, 21 Jun 2009 07:58:11 -0500 29800 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29799 I tried out the aerway and am going to buy one it doesn't make a matt like the turbo till does so we can run sooner. I will check the genesis II but I live in western IL and don't know of a dealer. As far as running it in the spring you definetly know you were threw it, and it does cut the stalks. You can set the aggressivenes also, also the one I tried had a harrow and rolling basket on it. Sat, 20 Jun 2009 12:35:48 -0500 29799 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29798 Your tool is also called Smart till?? Do you use it in the spring, fall, or both? If you run corn stalks in the fall--how much do you think it helps your spring drying? Thanks for your info. Bob Thu, 18 Jun 2009 07:28:45 -0500 29798 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29789 They are just a straight notched blade. I'm not sure what other options are available. I purchased what the rep suggested. I also got one of the new down pressure units...didn't put it on because I didn't think I needed it. Thu, 18 Jun 2009 05:57:02 -0500 29789 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29677 I'd recommend a Phillips rotary harrow. They track straighter on a hillside. They fold entirely from the tractor seat. They are built sturdy. The tines of the rolling harrow are swept backwards slightly. If you remove the rolling harrow and reinstall it end for end (swap ends) the tines are then swept slightly forward. In this manner it will increase the aggressiveness of the unit without going deeper into the soil. Only the top inch of soil will be tilled like a garden. Run a day or two ahead of the planter you will have a level field with consistent soil dryness. Wed, 17 Jun 2009 19:53:21 -0500 29677 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29788 What kind of blades do you have on those Blu-Jets? Mon, 15 Jun 2009 19:14:59 -0500 29788 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29797 I didn't mean that it does not work. For the money I would rather use my drill and a cover crop. Three years into using winter rye. It plants like soy and with my great plains drill am getting some sizing of the corn stalks. It doesn't cost you that much to run. The aerway I ran pulled harder than I would have tought. I didn't see any cutting of the stalks. Sat, 13 Jun 2009 15:38:19 -0500 29797 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29796 Ed, In a past dicussion you mentioned a person in Ohio who is an expert on Aerway. Anyway to contact him? Fri, 12 Jun 2009 20:15:41 -0500 29796 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29795 I'm running into the same problem. BT stalks that don't break down over the winter. I'm in central Iowa so wet soil are a problem when notilling beans with a 1790 planter with interplants. I've seen Aerway's video on their website featuring their CCT machine. Looks like it will work but I'm still skeptical. I need to do something but don't want to make a $45k mistake on something that doesn't work. Genesis Tillage makes a similar product but also has a harrow. Go to Genesistillage.com. Fri, 12 Jun 2009 19:48:32 -0500 29795 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29794 It sure leveled out my tile repairs and made a decent seedbed. One notiller nearby lives by the AerWay, another the Phoenix harrow. Thu, 11 Jun 2009 21:04:37 -0500 29794 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29793 So you didn't think it was effective??? What I am really interested in is someone who has observed one for multiple years, but it not selling them. I need something to ding up the stalkfield in the fall so it will dry close to bean ground. However, want to maintain the soil structure of a no till field. Hard to have things just as I want, but I am searching. Thanks Thu, 11 Jun 2009 21:03:20 -0500 29793 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29477 Jerry, I may know of someone interested in your Schlegel closing wheels. Could you send me your contact info. Bob Cooper rjcooper@cvalley.net Thu, 11 Jun 2009 12:24:03 -0500 29477 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29792 They should let you try it out. I used one this spring and they never chared me. It will fluf the corn stalks. It didn't cut them. About a half inch of rain and you don't know you did any thing. Thu, 11 Jun 2009 09:02:05 -0500 29792 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29791 I'm looking for experience with a Aerway. My problem is getting corn stalks to dry enough to plant beans in a timely manner. I'm thinking running an Aerway in the fall will greatly speed spring drying while maintaining my soil structure, decaying roots, ect. Folks that I've talked to seem to think this will speed us along...only some of them are selling this tool. Any thoughts or experience appreciated. I'm located in NC Mo. We farm mostly, fairly flat prairie type soil. Thanks Thu, 11 Jun 2009 06:22:10 -0500 29791 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29787 Who makes closing disks or coulters that can be mounted on the shanks of my NH3 toolbar? I need to close the slot. Sun, 07 Jun 2009 22:48:59 -0500 29787 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29785 Have him contact Phil Needham in Kentucky, Darryl. Phillip has worked with many of these problems. I thought his talk at the NNTC was one of the best money makers I ever saw on combine residue management. Factory setup won't cut the mustard. Ed Sat, 06 Jun 2009 16:35:36 -0500 29785 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29784 We have a no-tiller with an 8010 Case combine with a 40-foot draper header. He says he is not getting a consistent a pattern of the straw out of the combine. He has a straw chopper on it, but the spreader just does not get a good spread on the straw. Any suggestions? Darrell Bruggink No-Till Farmer Thu, 04 Jun 2009 12:55:34 -0500 29784 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29782 I would also like to know the cheapest sprayer to operate and maintain. Rogator dominates the custom app market here. My engineer friend at Hagie has been trying to get me to come to Clarion Iowa for a tour. John Deere is not compatible with anything else but it looks good and they sell a ton of them. One of my friends bought the STS 10 Hagie for his farm of 3000 acres. It looks oversized for his operation but he is a pretty shrewd buyer. I also would like to know the ins and outs of each sprayer brand and how to size one to an operation. Thu, 04 Jun 2009 06:24:11 -0500 29782 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29781 I am a small custom applicator who covers about 5000 to 8000 acres a year. I have been running a Spra Coupe 4640 for a while now and the hours are catching up. We plan on updating this year and I was looking for information on the different sprayers out there. The 4660 is really just an update to the 4640 same tank size boom width and all. Is a 400 gallon tank and 60 foot booms worth the 104k price tag? We love how easy the coup is to move around, and how early we can get in the field with the coupe. We really wish is had a larger tank and 60/80 booms. How are the Apaches? Are the 700s worth a little more than the Coupe, is a used 500 model a good buy? Do they hold up well? What other options are out there and what opinions do people have on them? Haggi, Wilmar, Miller?? Thanks for any information. Tue, 02 Jun 2009 16:21:17 -0500 29781 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29779 I'm looking for a place that has Buffalo planter parts. It's hard to get fast service from the factory in Nebraska. There are no dealers in Indiana that I know of. The closest dealer that I know of is 200 miles to the west in Illinois. Tue, 02 Jun 2009 15:41:28 -0500 29779 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29777 well ive been using my BILs single disk fertilizer openers this spring, and like most other areas in the country, its been a cold wet spring. im wondering if there are any aftermarket companies that make the plastic portion of the tube that mounts to the opener arm. ive been having trouble with them plugging with mud, much moreso than with my double disk openers. im applying 200 lbs of dry. is there a tube that will alleveiate mud problems? if i mount them higher i have more irregular fertilizer placement, problems burying it all. has anyone made their own due to this problem, possibly out of stainless? thanks in advance for any and all help, jon teele. Sat, 30 May 2009 20:44:13 -0500 29777 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29775 It's only crusted on the surface. Below that the spiked wheels still did their job and gained you better seed contact. I wouldn't plant with out them in any conditions. Fri, 29 May 2009 05:48:50 -0500 29775 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29774 Best way to learn is put them on a couple of rows and see for yourself. Ed Thu, 28 May 2009 03:28:27 -0500 29774 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29773 I read a lot about spiked closing wheels and their advantages in closing the slot in wet conditions. We've had the situation two years in a row now with ideal planting conditions, only to be followed heavy rains, crusted soil over the seed slot, and poor emergence. What's your experience been with spiked closing wheels in those types of conditions? Wed, 27 May 2009 11:01:55 -0500 29773 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29771 Problem w/ Rebounders. We installed Rebounders on 6 rows of a 12 Row JD 7000 planter. We were told that they were much better than "Keeton seed firmers" in that they did not have the mud buildup problems of "Keetons" in wet sticky clay soils. We have only planted corn w/ them so far as it has been & still is wet delaying planting. We are having a lot of trouble w/ them dragging mud, seeds, trash, & stopping the opener blades from turning & then causing the entire unit to drag & string seeds all along the seed trench. Where soils have been drier they have not scattered seed, but we see no differences in seed placement or speed of emergence both in time or uniformity. Some corn is up & some is coming up, & some is an inch from being up in both the rows w/ & rows w/o Rebounders. I am sure they must work somewhere, but we have not seen it yet. Are we expecting too much or what are we doing wrong? I know it is a little wet in places, but if we wait for all the terrace channels to get dry enough, either we will never get ideal conditions to plant or it will get too dry to get anything up in large areas of field. Three ft. of "Black on top" soil & they are dragging. The other 6 rows on this planter are working fine in the same fields. We have not yet taken them off the first six rows, but something good needs to happen before too long or they will come off. Is there anything I can do, or should I just take them off & charge it as a bad experience. Thanks for any help. Grant Corley Mon, 25 May 2009 13:35:39 -0500 29771 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29762 I installed one on 2 different 750 drills & they worked very well on both of them. Biggenst advantage was in soybeans. It cracked fewer beans & did do an evener job of distributing them in the row. Leave seed cup setting same as for normal gears. They tell in instruction book to get rate by going to chart & finding double what you wanted to plant & use that setting. do not double the rate of the standard chart reading for that opening. I found that mine usually was very close to 45-46% of doubled setting. In other words, go to chart where it said 100 Lbs. & multiply that by about 46% to get 46 Lbs. seeded. Do not go to 46 Lbs. & double that number on the slide setting. That should also work w/ a 1560 or later drill. I now use an 1850 air seeder in place of the 750 drill. Hope this helps you. Grant Corley Wed, 20 May 2009 22:18:13 -0500 29762 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29765 Yes, everyone has trouble w/ the firming and closing bushings packing full of dust/rust/etc. Solutions are to either grease more frequently, or install a seal configuration (Deere has one now; previously R-K was the only seal offered). The springs do fatigue. But realize that the Fin in transport position sets low enough that little or no spring pressure is being applied. To check for spring fatigue, buy a new one and install it to compare against. ----- -- Matt Hagny, consulting agronomist since '94, founder Exapta Solutions ('99) Wed, 13 May 2009 06:58:41 -0500 29765 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29769 considering trading 2600kinze for jd1790. tractor is not currently greenstar equipped but planter has greenstar monitor less display. i have display in 4700 sprayer to use, is their anything i need other than greenstar tractor harness from monitor to planter cable. does it automaticly recognize planter and change to from spraystar to seedstar or is their other software to purchase. salesperson says cable will do it all. not currently mapping and right now just want to know what i need to get monitor hooked up and working and what additional cost would be. also any 1790 owners, how do you like the planter? Mon, 11 May 2009 20:54:07 -0500 29769 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29764 I am going through my JD 1890 Drill and the Fin movement is not very good. I remove and clean around the bushing, then reinstall and grease and it still will not move correctly. Has anyone else had trouble with dust and grease locking up the firming wheel bushing? Do you think that the springs would fatigue this quickly? What do you suggest to correct this problem? Sun, 10 May 2009 21:02:42 -0500 29764 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29761 I would like to know if anyone has instlled the half speed kit on their drill and if they do give better seed spacing. I've installed it on the 1560and wondered if anyone has any tips on rate settings or seed cup settings. Thu, 07 May 2009 11:27:36 -0500 29761 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29759 I think someone stated in a previous article that they put on the side of the fertilizer. I haven't tried yet but it seems to me that the side of the fertilizer , the ground would be loosened and would move easier with rubber wheel. that by placing spike wheel on other side might work better. I shall find out soon as it stops raining Wed, 06 May 2009 08:25:17 -0500 29759 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29758 If you replace one standard closing wheel with a spiked model, should you place it on the same side or the opposite side of your 2x2 fertilizer coulter? Does it matter? Tue, 05 May 2009 13:58:38 -0500 29758 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29754 Don't know why i thought you were from pa don...that's the eventual plan here as well...just getting along with the white til i can justify a new planter...either a kinze or 7240 or 1780 deere.... Tue, 28 Apr 2009 20:46:45 -0500 29754 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29753 We are in cental Wisconsin. We do not use our white planter any more do to the lack of a dealer. Never had put the drag chains on the white but we like them on our kinze. best of luck Tue, 28 Apr 2009 10:25:34 -0500 29753 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29752 always thought it'd be nice to find some different options for a white but they seem very limited...you like yours in general donald v? by the way your in pa too correct...? Kyle Supplee, Thompsontwon, Juniata county, PA Mon, 27 Apr 2009 21:08:48 -0500 29752 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29756 I was wondering if anybody has tried the spike closing wheels from yetter? We were looking at the ones to replace the rubber ones by just changing the wheels. They are much less expensive than Martins but I dont want to buy if they dont work well. Thanks Mon, 27 Apr 2009 08:30:12 -0500 29756 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29751 On our white we had the martin row cleaners that were fixed and the martin spade closeing wheel. They are just like you are discribing. Also thought you should know that the bolt that holds the closing wheel on will break in rocky feilds. Mon, 27 Apr 2009 08:15:50 -0500 29751 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29750 did you guys run the specific kind i'm describing or did you get the S & I adapter to go to a kinze or deere style? just a little leery of having too much pressure left on rubber wheel and undoing everything the spikes just did with smearing and compaction...also am running yetter sharktooth row cleaners on a frame mount coulter so corn stalks aren't a problem...generally either end up out of the way or in the transmission chain lol Sun, 26 Apr 2009 22:05:26 -0500 29750 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29742 i have a 60 ft concord air drill i am not sure but i might be able to answer some questions Sun, 26 Apr 2009 20:29:07 -0500 29742 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29749 Was going to hold off on adding spade closer for another year and just buy adapter to switch to a kinze style with drag chain but soggy conditions have made me think about throwing them on this year. For anybody not familiar with this planter, there's a single rubber closing wheel that the spades will sort of wrap around somewhat like a row cleaner. Very similar to the small diameter spikes on a CIH setup. Any one have any input good or bad on this , or have used this set up? Sat, 25 Apr 2009 19:02:07 -0500 29749 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29747 it may help to know what the motor is in the machine, as at first i was thinking it was a diesel. now that i know it is a gas engine, your symptoms sound very much like a governer problem. i would also suspect fuel and ignition, even timing. get a carb kit, inline fuel filter, make sure you have a good flow of fuel to the carb. new ignition componets, how do the plugs look? your timing may very well be off a bit. i would find someone in the know about that particular engine, possibly in that particular application. good luck, jonathan Fri, 24 Apr 2009 06:54:12 -0500 29747 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29746 We got someone to look at ours just to see if the fuel is the problem. Some things that we were told to change or fix were the following. We changed the cap and rotor, tightened up both the foot cable and the throttle cable, replaced the spark plugs, and we tore apart the spring throttle mechanism and put some loosen all on it which helped immensely. Once we fixed all of these things, we figured out that it stayed at an even speed and had plenty of power. Even climbing hills. Now that this is fixed we are very pleased with our machine. Hopefully this helps you. Thu, 23 Apr 2009 20:44:57 -0500 29746 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29745 When you figure out what the problem is, I would appreciate a little help also. I recently purchased a 216, which has the same engine. It idles rather rough, hunts around for a speed to settle in on, but never quite gets there, also, but when you crack the throttle, it gets w/ the program & pulls quite well. Would be interested in what you find out to get it to run right. Great little machine tho, as far as we can see so far. Grant Corley Thu, 23 Apr 2009 13:01:02 -0500 29745 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29744 Hi, I just recently purchased a 1996 Spra-Coupe Melroe 220. I towed it home and started it up and noticed that it is putting alot. It wouldn't idle at a constant RPM, i took it out into the field and noticed that it was under power. One second i would be going 14.5MPH then i would be traveling 10MPH. I was just wondering if this is how the 220 usually operates or if it just needs a tune up. I would greatly appreciate more information on this situation. Thanks Sat, 18 Apr 2009 19:46:01 -0500 29744 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29481 If you had seeds bunched over the course of 100 ft or so, I would guess there was a blockage that temporarily occured in the seed tube, or a major problem with the singulator mechanism. However, the mud on the bottom of the Keeton is pretty much eliminated by additional pressure on the Keeton. Our Mojo Wire does this. For more commentary, see our March newsletter: http://exapta.com/news/nws_mar09.pdf best regards, ----- -- Matt Hagny, consulting agronomist since '94, founder Exapta Solutions ('99) Tue, 14 Apr 2009 06:24:23 -0500 29481 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29739 The JD single disk opener is about the best opener there is out there. It has the least disturbance for notill. If you have any trouble with it, contact Dave Moeller at Moeller Ag Service in Keota Iowa. He knows it inide out. I would trade. Sat, 11 Apr 2009 05:09:46 -0500 29739 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29706 Thanks Guys for all the help. Finally found one @ the right price. It has a little age on it, but is very low houred for its. Traced it back thru last 4 owners & all say it was lo hours when they had & none used it on many acres. Getting it all cleaned up up & ready to go to field. Will know more about it after a few days of use. It is a model 216 which I think is only a little lower clearance version of a 220. It is a 3 wheeler. I think that it is @ least a start. Thanks again, Grant Tue, 07 Apr 2009 21:58:34 -0500 29706 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29734 There are drills for sale everywhere in Ohio. Had a hard time getting a trade on a 15 ft 750, have seen them less than $10,000 but up to $16,000. Other brands normally cheaper. Saw plenty of drills the past year in your category for $5,000-$7000. I shop and trade on Tractor House. Good place to start. http://www.tractorhouse.com/listings/Manufacturers.aspx?catid=1122&etid=1&guid=E0C374D9C40547BDA895E5E9421136F2 Tue, 24 Mar 2009 10:33:57 -0500 29734 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29741 Anybody familiar with a Concord 3212 air drill? I have a few issues with mine, and being a new owner, I am looking for some answers. Mon, 23 Mar 2009 08:13:32 -0500 29741 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29738 BIL wants to trade his single disk openers from his 7000 for my double disks on my 1750 conservation. hes 100% conventional, and soon ill be 100% no-till. see any problems with this trade? this year ill be planting about 50 acres conventionally, mainly due to a wet harvest in that field. thanks jonathan teele Thu, 19 Mar 2009 05:03:15 -0500 29738 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29736 im asking as i can get an 800 cyclo dirt cheap. ill be buying it for the toolbar, but will it have the RID tires? id like to set one row up martin style for a year and compare for my soils. thanks jonathan teele Thu, 19 Mar 2009 04:58:42 -0500 29736 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29718 Anonymous: To the contrary. Exapta works closely with many producers across North America as well as other continents, and I've personally inspected no-till seeding and stand establishment with a huge variety of openers and attachments on several continents and the gamut of soil types. The basics of what is required for rapid germination and maximum stand establishment is the same everywhere, regardless of crop or soil type. I try to constantly check and re-check what I think I know. Frankly I'm continually amazed at how much universality there is on this topic. Sun, 08 Mar 2009 09:14:05 -0500 29718 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29733 I'm looking for a used no-till drill and don't know where to start. Only need a 14-footer. Can you point me in the right direction? Posted on behalf of Tebbie Heny at sheep@tctwest.net Sat, 07 Mar 2009 08:12:52 -0600 29733 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29729 I pull a 15 footer with a 70 hp tractor. It is all it wants and 105 hp would be much better. For resale, you can't beat a Deere. I don't like the cutting angle but it works. If you have to overseed with most drills and that is true with the Deere. The Krause is the heaviest made but needs the soil disruptors on the Sunflower. You can probably plant successfully at higher speeds with better depth control with the Sunflower If I chose the Deere I would want a used one and updated with the Martin system, then you have a superior drill. Fri, 06 Mar 2009 07:24:45 -0600 29729 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29731 Has anybody put a rear hitch on a JD7200 front fold flex frame 12rn? If so any how to info or pics would be greatly appreciated. Thanks. Mon, 02 Mar 2009 21:27:54 -0600 29731 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29728 Go JD and you can pull the 15' with that tractor. I pull 15' with 80 hp not MFD with dry fert. Get caster wheels and the 3 Pt. carrier. That will allow some weight to be transfered to the tractor. Sun, 01 Mar 2009 21:35:35 -0600 29728 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29727 Been looking at drills and came down to Krause 5250, jd 1590 and Sunflower 9412. The Krause is higher priced so I think it will be between the JD and the sunflower. 15' would be too big for me (I have a 105 hp tractor) so if I got a 1590 it would be a 10', however I liked the sunflower because it offered a 12.5' which I think would be a very good size for me. Please help me make a decision Sun, 01 Mar 2009 15:12:44 -0600 29727 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29725 Has anyone tried the totally tubular or Schaffert disk for putting 28 down. Schaffert runs a disc but Totally Tubular has tubes shooting down behind closing wheels. The tubular system looks simple but you would have to drag hoses in wind. How many gallons max with either system. Tell me your experiences Thanks Bob Sun, 22 Feb 2009 22:27:11 -0600 29725 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29723 I,m setting up a JD 1770NT with in furrow liquid fertilizer (10-34-0) and am wondering which systems work the best. Any help would be appreciated. Sat, 21 Feb 2009 22:42:42 -0600 29723 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29717 Ed Winkle wrote: "Have been using the Martin system since 1995. Can't find a better system. Just do exactly what they say." -- And when will we be allowed to think for ourselves? Will you guys remember to tell us when you reach different conclusions, or shall we assume that this system will *never* be surpassed? From what I hear, plenty of people are finding better performance from setups other than the dogma espoused by Ed. (Egad!!) ----- -- Matt Hagny, consulting agronomist since '94, founder Exapta Solutions ('99) Sat, 21 Feb 2009 02:08:24 -0600 29717 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29721 Sunflowers w/ a drill will suffer significant yield losses versus using a planter. http://exapta.com/news/nws_AccuracySeedPlacement_jan09.pdf Use a planter, even if it means renting one or hiring one. best regards, ----- -- Matt Hagny, consulting agronomist since '94, founder Exapta Solutions ('99) Sat, 21 Feb 2009 01:53:32 -0600 29721 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29720 I'm going to double crop sunflowers after wheat this summer and wondering if anyone has used a 750 to do this? #3 Seed most likely. Any suggestions, 7.5" versus 15", Seed setting . I don't have a reducer sprocket as of yet, just bought the machine @ a dealer last fall and excited to use it this season. Will appreciate any suggestions. D.B. Tue, 17 Feb 2009 00:06:43 -0600 29720 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29693 I have had no problems running mixtures through the Keeton tube. Just use the Martin system as they recommend. They have all the kinks worked out and Phil Needham is an excellent reference and travels the country on these topics as I do. Ed Winkle Mon, 16 Feb 2009 10:46:52 -0600 29693 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29716 Have been using the Martin system since 1995. Can't find a better system. Just do exactly what they say. Farmers are hesitant on the cost and change of two spike closing wheels. No one has convinced me one is better than two. Just do it and plant early. You will be glad you did. Ed Winkle Mon, 16 Feb 2009 10:43:41 -0600 29716 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29692 Richard, what are you using for a pump and how are you driving it? Fri, 13 Feb 2009 19:52:29 -0600 29692 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29715 Currently using Kinze planter with no-till coulters and no row cleaners and would like to put liquid fert beside the row. Looked at Martins setup at the farm show yesterday. They favor taking off the coulter, putting on the floating row cleaners and using a single disc opener behind the row cleaner. Does that work? seems like many feel the coulter does more harm than good. Are single or double spike closing wheels in style. Alot of new planters on the lot are only using one. Fri, 13 Feb 2009 19:50:21 -0600 29715 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29705 Grant simpsonfarm.com in Hays KS has a 1994 w/ 60' hydralic boom listed for 15,000. Larry Mon, 09 Feb 2009 11:55:55 -0600 29705 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29704 Thank You for the responses. Still looking for the "right one" & am wondering what a good one should cost. I am seeing prices all over the map for machines that look very similar & have nearly same amount of hrs. & age on them. Thanks, Grant Sat, 07 Feb 2009 19:36:33 -0600 29704 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29598 If you are referring to my post as shredding the stalks, My corn head roller modification crushes them, but does not shred them to pieces. They are still fastened to the short standing stalk. When you plant todays high yielding BT hybrids, you have to do something w/ the stalks to get them to break down a little faster." They certainly do not blow or wash away, but the fluted coulters on the planter can sure do a better job of slicing them when they have rotted down a little bit. It is not an appearance issue, it is so the coulters can do their job w/ less downpressure, thus causing less wear & tear on the coulters & planter units, as well as tractor & planter tires. Grant Corley Sat, 07 Feb 2009 19:32:24 -0600 29598 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29597 Why do you want the corn stalks shredded? If it is lying on the soil surface, it slows springtime warming of the soil, plus the seeder must either cut thru it or move it to plant the next crop. Standing stalks are much better -- all you need then is a knock-down bar on the planter or drill, and secure the wires and hydraulic lines. But it plants so much nicer. Also, standing stalks won't float away or blow away. Thu, 05 Feb 2009 06:38:48 -0600 29597 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29596 I can attest to the Calmer cornhead roll modifications for John Deere. We built a 12 row 20" corn this past summer & done the Calmer roller modifications. It totally changed the way it works & I would not go back to original for any reason. It breaks up the stalk a lot better, if you build the roller flutes up high enough, but the best thing is that if you remove the 2 flutes as they suggest it will save a tremendous amount of corn that normally goes over the front of the cornhead. It will spread the wear on the rollers & deck plates as well while doing a better job of saving ears. We do not even use ear saver flaps anymore & that helps feed in down corn better. It improves several factors & I see no down side. A total "win-win" answer to the problem of all the wear occurring just behind the spirals & flipping corn over the front of the row units. Everyone that saw it work agreed that it is a great improvement. Grant Tue, 27 Jan 2009 16:27:00 -0600 29596 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29703 Good, Thank You for your response. I am needing a lightweight SP Sprayer to run in 20" rows in both corn & beans for post emergence spraying of about 1000 acres per yr. I have a 500 gallon 50-65' boom semi-mount sprayer that we do our burndown work w/ but w/ 20.8 rubber on the tractor, it is a tight fit in 20" rows on even very small plants. We will be using it on no-til work nearly all the time, & some yrs for fungicide work in wheat. We have a good nurse tank setup already. I am not sure whether I want a 3 or 4 wheel setup. Any advice on this decision would certainly be appreciated. Thanks again for any help or advice that anyone cares to share. Grant Mon, 26 Jan 2009 21:36:15 -0600 29703 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29711 Corn after corn? Slow down and watch what you are doing. Stop and get off the planter and check depth of each row, same as any planter. Row cleaners should chew through the rotten corn stalks but keep them high enough to not tangle in the old root balls. I don't think you will have much problem. Sun, 25 Jan 2009 11:25:29 -0600 29711 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29713 Does anybody have experience with putting a no till colter on an 1860 drill to put down NH3 when seeding wheat in seven and half inch spacing? I would like to use a colter such as the wako NTO to put NH3 on 15 inch spacing as I seed wheat. I like the 1895 drill but I do not like 10 inch spacing for spring wheat. Thank you! Sat, 24 Jan 2009 17:58:55 -0600 29713 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29702 220 spray coupes work great for small gallonage applications (5-10 gal.). If you decide to put on much fertilizer at much more than 25-50#s you end up filling all the time. I drove one for a former employer then bought it when he retired. If they are in good mechanical shape they will run a long time. Don't know if you are looking at a three or four wheel model but the four wheel probably rides better but the three wheel turns tighter. Make sure it has hydraulic booms, power steering and the Ravin 440 monitor. The 75hp engine can be short on power if you are in soft conventional till ground other wise it does ok. Can spray at 12-13 mph easily in open stubble fields. If it's a three wheel the front wheel bushings and pins in the suspension need to be changed or at least checked around 700 hrs. I have since moved up to the 4440 but like the Spray Coupes because of their light weight and economic performance and simple design. Can get in the field earlier than my neighbors with thier big rigs. Larry Sat, 24 Jan 2009 16:46:28 -0600 29702 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29710 Looking for advise on making the switch from 36 to 30" rows for corn on corn in no-till. has anyone had experience with this? my biggest question is the few rows that will be running down the same rows as last year. I have a JD planter with hd down pressure and floating martin row cleaners. any help is greatly appreciated. thanks, Bryan Sat, 24 Jan 2009 11:51:26 -0600 29710 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29708 Sat, 24 Jan 2009 11:46:10 -0600 29708 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29701 We are interested in a Self-propelled sprayer & have been looking @ 220 Spra-Coupes. How well do they work & what do you look for as problems? Are they a good rig to invest in? Thanks Grant Corley Thu, 22 Jan 2009 14:14:36 -0600 29701 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29696 Until this year, we would just fall apply NH3 in chopped corn stalks and then plant without being indexed to the NH3 knife (this has been relativley flat ground and ths year will be 5th year no-till corn). We've moved to RTK this year and we'll see how it works out. The yields on the former method were very good, but I hope for better with new system. In response to your question, we had some class B/C soil with a 2-8% slope that was mis-sprayed with corn herbicide coming out of corn (supposed to go to beans). We planted the corn between the old rows (on a contour) and came back with 28% side dress. It turned out to be some of our best corn. I'm leery of being able to side dress in a timely fashion, but this approach sure worked well. Corn after corn no-till works well for us. It is like most things. You have to want to do it to be able to make it work. Mon, 19 Jan 2009 18:40:17 -0600 29696 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29699 A few years ago I ask this same question to Ray Rawson and he told me that since i had already been no tilling for some time it would not help. After 4 years of no till you have so many worm channels for the roots to follow and to move rain down that it would not pay. You would be damaging the soil structure that you have built up. John Mon, 19 Jan 2009 18:33:13 -0600 29699 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29698 I was wondering if running something like a dmi econo till or some sort of no-till in line ripper would be worth the investment, would it help with compaction or help with root zone?Any advice on what kind to run. Sun, 18 Jan 2009 15:15:55 -0600 29698 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29695 I have been no tilling corn bean rotation, chisle plowing for continous corn, I want to grow more corn on corn but don't have the time to work all of it, plus I don't want my soils being worked. I have strip tilled my bean stubble and it works real well but on the hills my erosion is worse than if I plowed it, the strips will wash right out. So now I am going to use 28% and straight no till. Can anyone tell me what I need to make all this work? I need more corn on corn(my beans are never real good, my corn on corn has been some of my best corn) UAN is so volitle when sprayed over top and not sure how to put on with planter(volume) I have combo units on my planter and keeton Y not split it seed firmers. Looks to me like no tiling corn into corn can be a disaster waiting to happen. Thu, 15 Jan 2009 09:06:06 -0600 29695 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29691 We run a kinze 3000 with infurrow fertalizer. It has worked great. A neibor has the tubes in front of the seed tube. They like to fill up with mud and dirt if it gets a little tacky. With my system we run five gallons of 9-18-9 with good results. Wed, 14 Jan 2009 12:05:08 -0600 29691 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29690 The wrap-around Keeton has a rather small space for the liquid tubes to pass thru the mounting assembly -- can be a bit of a PITA during installation. If installed correctly, they are relatively trouble-free. The Totally Tubular method drops the liquid ahead of the Keeton, which may result in more build-up of gunk on it. Please give our Thompson wheel consideration for your spoked closing wheel needs: http://exapta.com/products/thompson.html We have many very happy customers, many of whom had run competitor spoked closing wheels in the past and prefer the T-wheel. Running 2 spoked closing wheels per row is ideal, to break up the sidewall on both sides. Best regards, ----- -- Matt Hagny, consulting agronomist since '94, founder Exapta Solutions ('99) Wed, 14 Jan 2009 02:27:09 -0600 29690 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29689 Jim, we have set our 2300 kinze up with the Martin system, we only run 3 gal. fert through keetons so no problem. We run 45 gal through single straight blade with injecter tube 4 inches to the side. works great for us Dick Mon, 12 Jan 2009 06:23:35 -0600 29689 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29688 I just purchased a Kinze 2700 planter. It is equiped with in furrow fertilizer and the Kinze combo unit coulter trash wheel setup. It currently has one spading closing wheel and one cast iron. It appears to have case ih gauge wheel tires (did kinze make an RID gauge tire?) I plan to add keatons, am considering a totally tubular setup for fertilizer placement, and am leaning toward martin spaders and drag chain. Has anyone had trouble putting liquid through keatons? Seems I read a few posts where guys had trouble, that's why I'm thinking tubulars. Any other tips, tricks, or suggestions? How badly does it need the setback kits on every other row? It is wider than I like for transport... Thanks guys Fri, 09 Jan 2009 15:30:53 -0600 29688 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29686 I am not sure what the answer is for you Stanley but I would recommend you contact Phil Needham at Needham Ag. http://www.needhamag.com/ Ed Winkle Wed, 07 Jan 2009 09:31:32 -0600 29686 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29685 Has anyone had experience with the FIN replacing the seed firming wheel on JD no-till drills. I am wanting to put them on a 1590 to apply liquid fertilizer in furrow. thanks Stan Thu, 01 Jan 2009 21:23:43 -0600 29685 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29683 I am planning on making a Rawson 3 blade striptill rig behind my aircart to mix dry fert into the row. I am concerned about how much fert I can mix in just ahead of planting in the spring. Dawn has a rig that is doing just what I want and the sales man says they have no problems but I am still skeptical about burning the seed or small roots. Any insight would be appreciated. John Mon, 29 Dec 2008 16:48:38 -0600 29683 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29472 Thank you. I love farming. I could never get it out of my blood so my love for art and science led me to notill. My learning magnified by teaching for 31 years led to this. Together we can all help each other, that is just the way it is done. So many have helped me. Since I first got on the Internet in 1995 my life has changed for the good. I am willing to share and thank those who share with me. Don't forget a good soil test in each crop rotation and follow it up with a tissue test to monitor uptake and your progress. Old science still applicable today. Today's high input prices have made us all look harder. Best wishes to you and all in the New Year. Ed Winkle edwinkle@verizon.net Sat, 20 Dec 2008 12:16:03 -0600 29472 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29681 I won't put it back to 15 feet. If I do that, I would sell it and change out to something different. 15 feet is too blooming small even if all I have is 300 acres. I am looking for a replacement for it though in 5 to 10 years. My dad still uses his JD LZ hoe drill he bought new in 1963. It is a 6 foot 3 section unit. The nice thing is we only put $20 in new parts each year on it, if that. I want a unit that is good for no till and conventional till, prefer 30 feet. I was looking at a Great Plains but unsure right now. Thu, 18 Dec 2008 17:21:04 -0600 29681 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29680 I can't help you with the modification Brent but I can tell you any wear adds up quickly. Most run them worn out or nearly worn out. It really pays to keep the boots in top notch condition as the drill is doing all your tillage and seeding in one pass. You might contact David Moeller at Moeller Ag Service in Keota Iowa. I haven't seen anything David couldn't make work or work better unless you really need to take the box back to original. Ed Thu, 18 Dec 2008 11:43:05 -0600 29680 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29444 We have a home made unit. It is pretty simple to do, and the cost is very small. We run a 5/16 tube in row for ours. I can email photos of how to set it up if you like. bharzman@ruraltel.net I have had this setup for 2 years now, and been very happy brent Thu, 18 Dec 2008 07:31:01 -0600 29444 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29679 I have a 750 that has been extended to 20 feet. The outside 2 rows give me problems each year. I have tried about everything on this unit. I had bungie cords wrapped around the tube and then to the spring of the unit in front......no avail. This past year I went extreme. I lifted the whole box up 8 inches. That helped it, but still will get a clogged tube. It is not from dirt at the bottom, it is from the angle that the seed tube has to go to get to the bottom. I have several photos, that I can send to someone for advise. Mother Deere told me, that these units were not made to be extended out to 20 feet, and now I see why. We run apx 7.5 inch spacings on it, with in row liquid fertilizer. Also, how much wear is too much for the seed boots? We do apx 200 to 300 acres a year no till wheat. The other half is normal till. thanks for the help. Thu, 18 Dec 2008 07:23:20 -0600 29679 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29676 We are interested in adding a Phillips or Phoenix harrow to our operation. Would appreciate opinions on each brand and advantages of one over the other. We will probably purchase a used model, 45 foot or so. Tue, 16 Dec 2008 21:08:56 -0600 29676 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29272 Our DVD shows how to set row cleaners, along with actual photos and video of what it looks like in the field: http://exapta.com/products/dvd.html Best regards, ----- -- Matt Hagny, consulting agronomist since '94, founder Exapta Solutions ('99) Sun, 14 Dec 2008 10:00:11 -0600 29272 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29271 Fixed have less disturbance for me if I get off the tractor and adjust them. I better be digging every row of the planter too to see if I am getting every row the same depth and the same amount of crumbly soil on top of each furrow. You wouldn't believe the variation between farms and planters and operators. Sat, 13 Dec 2008 12:05:10 -0600 29271 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29674 Does anyone have any advice on putting a rear hitch on a Kinze 2300 16 Row to pull a 1,000 to 2,000 gallon tank. I think I have some good ideas but wanted to know if anyone has done it. Sun, 30 Nov 2008 16:12:58 -0600 29674 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29313 I would also recommend the Martin system. It has the closest effect to your strip tilling system with one pass. I also can be reached at edwinkle@verizon.net if you have questions. Ed Winkle Sat, 29 Nov 2008 05:38:06 -0600 29313 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29145 Drill, planter, coulter, no coulter, modifications? What would you like to know to improve your notill soybean planting equipment that you don't already know? Do you feel some tillage is needed in heavy ground or do you notill directly into anything and everything? Thanks, Ed Winkle Sat, 01 Nov 2008 19:07:23 -0500 29145 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29147 I'm a farmer in Sweden and are looking for a double-shoot paired row opener witch can perform a god job in heavy soils. Could anyone give me a tip or tell me about own experiences. I have read a lot about the Anderson opener, but will it work in my soil witch often is moistly ? Sun, 19 Oct 2008 16:58:37 -0500 29147 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29149 Hi All Im about to start up a dairy farm in South Africa. Im looking at a John Deere forage harvester model 7550, with a Kemper 455 head. The corn will be irrigated, and planted at 45cm / 18 inches. Normal seed yields would be around 10 tonnes / hectare. Unfortunately I cant tell you yet how many tonnes of silage I'll get / hectare! Can anyone tell me roughly how many hectares / acres or tonnes per hour I would be able to harvest with this combination? Even a rough guesstimate would be great to point me in the right direction. I need to work out how many 30m3 trailers I'll need to transport the silage back to the yard. Thanks all Best Ryan Mon, 06 Oct 2008 14:03:12 -0500 29149 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29152 Thanks for the link. It sounds like a good system, based on what I read there. However, I didn't have in mind to spend $12,000 to $18,000..... Maybe I better re-think exactly what I'm needing. Mark Wed, 24 Sep 2008 20:52:46 -0500 29152 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29151 I recently bought my own toolbar to apply NH3, instead of waiting in line for the fertilizer dealer to have one available. I want to look into buying some kind of accurate rate controller. I don't have any of the fancy electronics now, (GPS, light bar, radar, etc. ). Most of those electronic terms I don't even know what they are. I just want to accurately control my rate, not do variable rate. Any body have any input? Mark Sun, 21 Sep 2008 22:18:55 -0500 29151 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29181 In all seriousness, the Thompson wheel solves the bearing problem on the 50-series drills. Have a look on the Testimonials page of the Exapta site, or look up Jon Hagen's posts on AgTalk -- he has been running T-wheels for about 6 yrs now on his pair of 750 drills. Ed, when you're ready to upgrade to Exapta's Thompson wheel, give us a call ! Thu, 18 Sep 2008 04:42:48 -0500 29181 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29180 Patrick has an excellent question and I agree. If anyone has experience with the modification I would be interested to learn. We use the Martin spiked closing wheel instead of the Deere closing wheel and it is just as hard on the bearing as the standard wheel. Ed Winkle Wed, 17 Sep 2008 15:32:22 -0500 29180 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29184 I recently purchase a Case IH 1250 16RN planter and was curious if anyone on the board had any experience no-tilling with the newer models. We had a 950 12RN vertical fold with combo units, seed firmers and spiked closing discs (JS Ag). This one will have Yetter floating shark-tooth managers and the JS closing discs. I'm told the seed firmers are not available for the newer models. I would really hate to go to the field with out them. Does anyone know where to find them? We are also doing VRA seeding based on soil type and installing point-row clutches on every 4th row. Does anyone have experience with either of these. And for my final question (this post turned out more log winded than i would have liked), this planter has pneumatic down pressure and I wonder if anyone had any suggestion or recommendation for using them. Tue, 09 Sep 2008 15:35:18 -0500 29184 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29179 Patrick, I could be under a false apprehension, but it runs in my mind that somebody (one of the supply houses -- Shoup perhaps?) sells a kit to convert the 50-series to the 60/90-series closing configuration. Maybe it was mother Deere. Anyway, I vaguely remember it being discussed on NewAgTalk (I think) in the last 6 months. Another option would be to go to an aftermarket closing wheel with a truly robust bearing, for instance our Thompson wheel: http://exapta.com/products/thompson.html Dawn Equipmt also makes 50-series closing wheels with durable bearings, although the weight of the wheel and shape of the spokes may not be optimal in some conditions. Hope this helps. ----- -- Matt Hagny, consulting agronomist since '94, founder Exapta Solutions ('99) Sun, 07 Sep 2008 06:43:27 -0500 29179 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29178 Getting tired of the having to replace the bearings, dust seals and bushings on my closing wheels. Replaced all of them prior to spring planting this year, and made it with pretty good luck about 2000 acres and then they started going out with a vengence. The field too far as I named it. Plain and simply the design sucks, there is a recess to catch dirt and nowhere for it to go except through your seal and into the bearings and viola, locked up closing wheel. Noticed they redesigned the wheels for the newer 1590 drills by turning the whole deal upside down so that the spindle turned with the closing wheel and the bearings were located on the closing wheel arm. Have concocted up some sort of idea how to pull that off using existing spindles, wheels, and such by machining a piece of pipe that would be welded to the closing wheel arm, that would hold bearings dust seals and cap, witht he spindle reversed. Only thing is I'm sure I'm not the first person to ever think of this...and probably somebody has already manufactured such a thing...and it would save me a lot of trial and error. If anybody knows of such a thing...would really appreciate a steer in the right direction thanks. Fri, 05 Sep 2008 22:06:11 -0500 29178 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29429 Have 750 drill that I put keatons into for liquid,,,and didn't really like the mess. One thought for dry fertilizer is to blend it with the seed and run the whole mess through the seed meters. Don't know how it would work for soybeans or canola because of the different seed sizes but it works pretty decent for wheat and is a fairly common practice where we are. Fri, 05 Sep 2008 21:55:32 -0500 29429 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29270 I don't understand your question, Rick. Ed Winkle Wed, 03 Sep 2008 17:58:23 -0500 29270 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29455 Mike did you take the spacers out when you put the martins on? I have a 1225 twin and I had to take the spacer out of both sides. Sat, 09 Aug 2008 17:52:34 -0500 29455 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29269 Some of the row cleaner literature states that with floaters the row cleaners will reduce soil erosion. Mostly because less residue is moved and the furrow in the planting row is not as deep as typical no-till planting. Does anyone know of any data to support this claim? Tue, 22 Jul 2008 13:17:17 -0500 29269 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29279 Anybody have a good way to put phosphorous on with jd 1990 ccs air seeder? Fri, 18 Jul 2008 13:25:53 -0500 29279 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29308 That is good advice based on what I see on various boards. Still would like to know how to tell when a meter is past its prime /worn out and need to be replaced? Or is it the cups/plates that accompany them usually the problem/issue? Thu, 17 Jul 2008 12:34:42 -0500 29308 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29293 Jerry, I would like to talk to you about your Schlagel closing wheels if you still have them. Thanks. Mon, 07 Jul 2008 19:13:53 -0500 29293 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29307 Hi, New to NT and just put in bean with our new JD 7000 NT planter. This is a converted pull planter to 3 point hitch that we use for food plots of 1 to 5 acres. I have seen references to the JD bean meters/cups "slobering" beans out and that is what I am seeing. How can one tell if the cups (and or other parts) need to be replaced or should I just go with kinze bean meters as others recommend? Tue, 01 Jul 2008 14:22:50 -0500 29307 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29310 I am running shoup spiked closing wheels instead of original disks and am thinking about also replacing the press wheel with spiked wheels to help close slot and break up side wall. What options are available for the 950 planter. Mon, 30 Jun 2008 23:59:02 -0500 29310 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29312 I am a 3 yr strip tiller who wants to go on to no-till. I am pricing Kinze 3000 and Deere 1750 6r's. My central NY valley soils can range from clay/silt loam bottoms to coarse gravel and everything between, often all in one field. I am thinking frame mounted coulters to keep the seed units from bouncing so much in tough gravels and upland shales, as well as the usual Martin type options. I'd like to hear suggestions. Not much no-till here to look at. Sat, 28 Jun 2008 14:24:08 -0500 29312 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29319 The 3000 unit is very strong and heavy, they use up to 4 of the regular springs. I have been using a 3000 for many years with great results and I only us 2 springs. John Fri, 27 Jun 2008 20:14:17 -0500 29319 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29475 I'm new to this site, and no-till. I would like to try no-tilling some corn and I like the looks of the schlagels. Will they work in conventional till also? I really hate to try no-tilling without the right equipment but don't want to spend money on iron if it wont work for my conventionally tilled corn also. Thanks Wed, 25 Jun 2008 22:06:01 -0500 29475 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29579 I have a Great Plains 1500 CPH drill. This year on the advice of the GP rep at the conference I made some changes. I put 6" of spacers on the main lift cylinders. This put some weight onto the transport wheels when the drill was full. This keeps the drill from planting too deep when it is full. I also added 1000# of tractor weights to the brackets on the coulter cart. This kept the drill in the ground when it got low on beans. Now a question. My drill needs to be rebuilt. The coulters, openers and bearings need to be replaced. Anyone have any thoughts about widening out the row spacing to 15" rows. The advantages are: 1. less cost for parts 2. less down pressure springs pushing up on the drill so better penetration when the drill is low. 3. I can plant lower populations and still have beans push through any crust as they will be closer together. please forward any thoughts. Thu, 19 Jun 2008 22:19:51 -0500 29579 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29320 I wonder what "moderate no-till" is? Seems to me it's either no-till or it isn't. Mark Brubaker Tue, 17 Jun 2008 04:53:36 -0500 29320 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29318 I am looking to update planters and while researching kinze planters I noticed in their brochures they only advise their planters for moderate no-till, does anyone have experience using these twinline planters for all no-till applications? I am not sure if the kinze down pressure system is adequate. Mon, 16 Jun 2008 16:50:55 -0500 29318 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29316 I was told that they are very nice. But they are just like air bags on trucks and will dry rot and blow out. Wed, 11 Jun 2008 14:03:13 -0500 29316 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29323 I like the finger pick up. They are very simple and eazt to repair. If they are maintaind will work just fine. Plus you don't have to worry about the vac system problems. Wed, 11 Jun 2008 13:59:57 -0500 29323 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29315 Pricing a new planter and was looking for opinions on the pneumatic down pressure system vs the springs on a 1750 John Deere conservation planter. What are everyone's experiences? Tim Fichtel Wed, 11 Jun 2008 12:20:22 -0500 29315 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29322 I am looking for a different corn planter and wondering which type of meter will work better. Currently I am using a finger metering system. We have rocky soil so the row units do some bouncing. Fri, 06 Jun 2008 23:12:18 -0500 29322 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29339 For a couple of years now I have been using the steel liquid tubes from blumhardt to put down starter on my 750 drill, I'm not happy on the placement and the fact that the starter splatters all over the place. the tube puts the starter down right through the back of the boots and I have had some issues on plugging the boots If I stop and forget the liquid pump on. I have the V6 firming wheels from needham ag, and they are great for my soil so taking off the packer wheels is not an option, any help would be great! Mon, 02 Jun 2008 00:00:50 -0500 29339 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29344 The post above is mine. For some reason, I was allowed to post without logging in. ----- -- Matt Hagny, consulting agronomist since '94, founder Exapta Solutions ('99) Sat, 31 May 2008 07:47:29 -0500 29344 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29343 I keep reading that people are taking coulters off there planters. and I don't understand how there getting the seed into the ground. what type of planters are you using to plant with. what type of opners, anything to help would be great. for soybeans we plant with a 7000 jd corn planter on 15'' rows Fri, 30 May 2008 12:55:19 -0500 29343 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29341 I have read a lot about carbide tipped boots for a 750 drill, however I am looking for a supplier, if someone could help me out. Tue, 27 May 2008 11:03:16 -0500 29341 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29379 May we help you Roger? If you are having problems contact Darrel at NoTill Farmer. Ed Winkle Sun, 18 May 2008 13:02:06 -0500 29379 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29378 Wed, 14 May 2008 16:28:15 -0500 29378 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29524 I can buy an older JD 1550 in good shape right now, or wait a year and buy a newer model drill like a GP 1006 NT. I need something to use planting at our hunting club, mostly level fields with some old pine stumps in places. Primarily plant wheat, oats, clover, rye. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks CC Sat, 26 Apr 2008 14:44:41 -0500 29524 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29457 does anybody know an easy inexpensive way to connect a implement switch along with the remote without purchasing the cable from trimble? I was told pins 4 and 5 were the trigger wires but i have had no success? Sun, 20 Apr 2008 10:53:58 -0500 29457 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29476 Jerry, Thank you for info.I got a JD1750 and right now no one that I know has a JD7000 planter. Sun, 13 Apr 2008 21:42:02 -0500 29476 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29454 I have a Great Plains 1625 planter (2 years old), and am not happy with the soft wedge closing wheels that came with it. I have Martin Spaders on my Kinze corn planter and love them, but they dont do much good on the Great Plains that I plant beans with. Does anyone have any knowledge or recommendations for this problem? Sun, 13 Apr 2008 21:15:25 -0500 29454 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29474 I was wondering if anyone has the schlagel closing wheels? Do they work? Fri, 11 Apr 2008 09:04:36 -0500 29474 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29480 Seed-lock wheels were all the rage in the early and mid-'90s. The gum up with mud/straw badly in damp clay soils because the wheel's axle is so close to the soil surface. In arid climates or sandy soils, they work nicely. Thu, 10 Apr 2008 07:44:02 -0500 29480 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29479 I bough a bunch of brand new seed-lok wheel kits that fit my planter for next to nothing and put them on a few rows of my planter today in place of keetons and so far I think I really enjoy them. They really get the seed to the bottom of the trench and firmed I also like how the pressure can be ajusted from who knows how many tens of pounds ,to a light tuck (I think my problems with keetons might have been my "not so heavy duty" opener blades flexing to the point that I have a narrow trench) I was just curious if anyone else had any information on seed-lok's vs keeton's and why keetons seem to be so popular and seed-lok wheels dont seem to be. I guess Im just worried they are flawed in some way and I have yet to figure out what the problem is. ( Matt H. this might be a question for you, because you mention seed firming wheels when discussing the mojo wire but I cant seem to find any other information on them) Thanks, Matt Thu, 10 Apr 2008 00:28:22 -0500 29479 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29642 Matt C, That is a very insightful comment! -- Maybe instead of repairing the gauge-wheel pivot points, and carefully shimming gauge wheels to the blade, we should instead move the gauge wheels out a couple inches away from the blade! (Facetious Suggestion) Sat, 05 Apr 2008 07:24:03 -0500 29642 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29641 Row cleaners w/o coulters. Root bound sounds good to me. If our ancestors had Roundup instead of John Deere's moldboard on our prairie soils--- Fri, 04 Apr 2008 17:21:03 -0500 29641 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29207 row cleaners set to just move trash, if they don't turn all the time they are set about right. No coulter but new disc openers set at 2 inch touching in front, down pressure springs for dry weather, spading closing wheels w/drag chain Fri, 04 Apr 2008 17:10:22 -0500 29207 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29669 I run both sides w/Martin spike wheels in all types of conditions on my JD 12 row. Make sure that you use the drag chain offered by Martin. That's the key. No down pressure on the wheels. Fri, 04 Apr 2008 17:02:16 -0500 29669 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29580 here's what we found: GP is good for wet years as it fluffs and airs out the ground. You need to plant a little deeper b/c of that. The seemingly bad thing is that when you lift it, the whole unit raises, seed box and all. This weight makes variances on planting depth. When the seed box is empty the penetration is lessened ,thus the seed is shallower. We can always tell where we run low on seed, the emergence is slower. Deere's units are high maintenance but seeding is unaffected by weight yet the guage wheel will raise the seed depth when it travels over residue and root balls. Using GP is like having a disc running ahead of you. If it rains right after you'll replant. if it doesn't you better had planted deep. I'd like a JD drill w/row cleaners if I could Fri, 04 Apr 2008 16:54:42 -0500 29580 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29554 This is my second year no-tilling beans into corn stubble. We have sandy loam soil here mainly. I retrofitted a 950 Case IH planter to 21" rows and added a unit mounted 8 wave coulter from yetter. I have determined the opening discs and closing discs are worn out and i am seeing plenty of aftermarket closing systems available for these planters. Should I change systems or stick with the old one? Has anyone had any experience with "Shoup" replacement parts and notched marker discs?? Has anyone had any experience with the shoup spiked closing disc system?. Any thoughts? Fri, 04 Apr 2008 16:23:22 -0500 29554 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29609 I'm curious about trying the same thing. thinking about building attachment to go on a planter or just on a toolbar to apply nh3 using a disk opener instead of a knife mounted on a shank. if you have some ideas I would be interested in hearing them. Tue, 01 Apr 2008 22:57:32 -0500 29609 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29578 I'm looking at a Great Plains CPH 1500 no-till drill. There are numerous GP drlls in my area but seems no one is no-tllling. I'm looking for feedback on this type of unit. Thanks! Tue, 01 Apr 2008 07:30:12 -0500 29578 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29672 Shawn, farmer here with double martin wheels has planted into conventional ground (actually it was apple orchards that were torn out and ground worked) with no problems. As Russ says, don't have down pressure. That being said, most farmers here run one spiked and one rubber mostly because I think they just couldn't take that leap. I expect most will switch to two spiked next time they need to replace. Wed, 12 Mar 2008 10:42:19 -0500 29672 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29671 I think you have it figured out, Shawn. The Martin is a good one. I prefer a pair, especially in early notill. I wanted it planted before the ground gets hot, dry and hard. Some prefer other wheels closing wheels but that one just what you said. It tills gently beside and above your seed trench, leaves it in garden like condition. Some use a non spiked wheel beside it but I prefer two in my conditions. The whole system is very popular and successful across the country and even other countries. Sun, 09 Mar 2008 09:02:50 -0500 29671 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29670 It is doable, just remove all down pressure from closing system. Sat, 08 Mar 2008 17:14:57 -0600 29670 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29668 I have been looking at trying a set of spiked closing wheels for this year. I have read the various threads on this topic and have looked at the products offered by Dawn, Martin, Schagel, as well as a couple of others. I have decided that I like the Martin closing wheel system the best. It appears that the spike penetrates and crumbles the sidewall and that the slot should close in less than ideal conditions. My question is can this closing wheel be run in conventional till as well? Would you run one spike and one rubber closing wheel or can I run two spike closing wheels per row? While I am moving more toward no-till, we have some bottom ground that still needs to be tilled each spring and would like not to have to change the closing wheels over each time we switch. I realize adjustments would need to be made, however, I was wondering if anyone has had any good or bad experiences and/or tips in switching from one tillage system to another. Sat, 08 Mar 2008 15:08:11 -0600 29668 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29663 Ed Winkle wrote: "they are really balancing their anions and cations and causing a soil energy that just makes their crops explode." -- Got any science to back up this statement? -- I am not aware of any chemistry or plant physiology that allows this to happen. ----- -- Matt Hagny, consulting agronomist since '94, founder Exapta Solutions ('99) Sat, 08 Mar 2008 08:30:51 -0600 29663 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29662 Hi Steve, This should be under soils and crops but that's OK. My friends in Iowa started finding potash deficient corn some years back in notill. Soil test said OK, tissue test said deficient. It was worse on the edge of gravel roads where the lime dust blew into the field. We started pulling samples at 2-3 inches with the plow depth samples and found good K levels but the plant couldn't get it, tied up with high lime. Lime, particularly calicium is wonderful spread across your soil profile. Jammed or layered in any one area is bad. They used an acid and a base to buffer their soil and had good results. In their case, 100 lbs. potash with several tons of liquid hog manure. This is basic chemistry if you can figure out how the pluses and minuses you are applying are doing to each other. When you hear these outrageous successes some farmers are having, they are really balancing their anions and cations and causing a soil energy that just makes their crops explode. I have enjoyed it a few times but just as prone to follow the leader and go down the wrong path. If you need potash, spread potash. It is $600 per ton here. If you need lime, spread that first. Get a good soil test and go over it with someone who knows what they are looking at. The higher the clay or CEC of your soil the more potash you will need. Ed Winkle Fri, 07 Mar 2008 16:11:55 -0600 29662 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29661 Surface broadcast in no-till can be effective in moist climates, just not quite as consistently effective as shallow (1 - 3") subsurface application. Since it is less costly, maybe it's not a bad trade-off. For an exhaustive research review and discussion, see: http://www.notill.org/LE_Articles/V6N3A2_Stratification.pdf ----- -- Matt Hagny, consulting agronomist since '94, founder Exapta Solutions ('99) Mon, 03 Mar 2008 07:31:53 -0600 29661 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29608 Can you apply NH3 with an Ausherman Vantage II fertlizer disk? I have been reading on your website and found a person who has been doing this for 5 or more years. I was unable to contact him. I am thinking about trying this and would like some feed back. Thanks. Sun, 02 Mar 2008 11:08:32 -0600 29608 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29666 jeremy, Jamison Ag Repair in Colo,IA makes a kit for contact wheel drive. Their phone number is 641-377-2627. $1600.00 list for a 7000 Deere. David Moeller Thu, 28 Feb 2008 20:54:35 -0600 29666 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29665 In 2006 I was at the Nat. Farm Machinery Show and got some info on planter contact wheel drive for 7000 JD planter and have misplaced it. Does anyone know who the company is or a web site? Thanks for any help. Thu, 28 Feb 2008 10:43:18 -0600 29665 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29660 Steve, We use liquid 10-34-0 thru pur 12 R- 20" 7000 planter. We place potash down w/ a 20" strip-til unit. Potash & Phosphorus broadcast is not a very efficient way to apply it, in our soils, anyway. Broadcast P2O5 is tied up in our soils. Bands of somekind work much more efficiently. Grant Corley Wed, 27 Feb 2008 21:59:37 -0600 29660 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29659 I recently read an article by a Midwest University crops and soils instructor. The article was about the application of "Potash" on no-tilled corn ground. He stated that broad casting Potash on no-tilled corn ground prior to planting beans was not a very effective way of applying Potash on no-tilled corn ground. The article stopped me in my tracks a bit... I will be no-tilling beans into corn ground this spring. My soil samples call for 100#s of Potash per acre. I have a modified John Deere 7000 8 row (30") corn planter that is now an 8 row (19") no=till bean planter with no fertilizer attachments. My plan was to broadcast the Potash. I'm looking for some advice, testimonials, experience etc. Thanks a bunch... Wed, 27 Feb 2008 12:08:32 -0600 29659 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29655 Dan, I have been running an all Martin set up on my planter. I run the floating trash wheels and just behind them, I use the Martin fertilizer coulter. It comes as a unit, I run the coulter 3 " to the side and and 3/4" below the bottom of the seed trench. I use Keeton seed firmers appling my starter in furrow and followed by the spiked closing wheels and drag chains. I use 1000 gal tanks on the tractor for the nit and 400 gal tanks on the planter for the starter. The one thing that we have been doing now for several years is strip till in the fall. We apply the P & K with some N in between the row, which leaves a very nice seedbed to plant into next spring and all my nutrients are in a zone where they need to be. The yeilds will speak for theirselves. I bought my martin equipment from Dave Moeller, a great guy to work with. Good Luck ! Denny Wed, 27 Feb 2008 06:47:00 -0600 29655 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29654 Most use the JD single disk opener on the front of the planter to apply let's say 20 gallons of 28 and 5 gallons of thiosulfate to the side of the row, most use 2 inches. Martin has good products so call them about their knife, I don't have any experience with them. Dave Moeller makes a good one too so you can call him about his. All three could do what you want to do. Sidedress to me means sidedressing small corn so I am sure you mean on planter application of N. Tue, 26 Feb 2008 13:28:29 -0600 29654 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29657 For Todd West, my correct home page that shows how we are puting down nitrogen at planting time is bigrivertel.net/~planpher sorry for the mistake, Paul Lanpher Thu, 31 Jan 2008 00:35:31 -0600 29657 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29612 You could probally do a search on the web,but If I remember right SI distributing sells a kit that you can take your 15' 750 with 7.5 spacing and transform it into a 20' with 10" spacing and you don't need and additional openers. Tue, 29 Jan 2008 18:28:40 -0600 29612 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29653 Last year I went to nutill/martin setup on jd7000 6-30 planter that used to have dry fert. I put liquid starter on through the keetons. My question is what is the best way to sidress 28. Do the martin fert coulter work or is there a better system. One other thing switching fert dealers they told me to stop fall broadcasting p&k said it will never get down into the soil is this true or bull thanx dan Tue, 29 Jan 2008 17:53:59 -0600 29653 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29651 For Sale: 31 lightly used JD Cast Iron Closing Wheels for JD Planter. Purchased planter with them installed and don't need them. Will Consider offers. Thanks 507-360-3119 - cell Sun, 27 Jan 2008 23:38:39 -0600 29651 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29646 I have another question, everyone talks about using RID gauge wheels and then on the other side of the spectrum, there are countless kits to fix worn out gauge wheel control arm bushings so that the gauge wheels will stay right next to the opener, Why would a gauge wheel with a worn bushing that is running away from the opener, theoretically not give the same sidewall lift as a RID wheel?? I actually have SI distributings ajustable bushing on my planter so I could set the gauge wheel away from the opener if I wanted??? Im just being Curious! Sat, 26 Jan 2008 19:30:12 -0600 29646 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29645 I havent decided on the RID gauge wheels yet. Ive heard good and bad about them ( air pockets and the seed getting beside the firmer) and probably am only going to put them on a couple rows for a test plot this year to see if they will make a difference in my conditions and are worth the hastle of changing or not. We usually dont plant over 5mph though depending on seed size because we are using finger meters, What speed did you have in mind when you said slow? Sat, 26 Jan 2008 19:12:12 -0600 29645 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29638 I agree with you Ed. We took no-till coulter off as we were getting double bump as well as having trouble getting row unit in ground when it got hard and dry. We are completely martin from front to back. floaters,double disk,rid tires,keetons,spiked closers,drag chain. Love the system benn this way for 6 years. . West central NYS have evertything from blue clay. to gravel Dick Thu, 24 Jan 2008 07:18:14 -0600 29638 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29644 Matt C, You might want to go slow with the RID gauge tires -- they often cause more problems than they solve. http://exapta.com/knowledge/tipplanter.html (scroll down the page) Wed, 23 Jan 2008 07:09:00 -0600 29644 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29643 Matt I did that this spring for a neighbor with good success. I used martin floating row cleaners and no coulters. We deep placed NPK in the fall then I planted part of it at an angle to the fertilizer rows and split the rows with the rest. I also had two martin closing wheels on the back. Tue, 22 Jan 2008 18:28:39 -0600 29643 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29637 Ed are you at all concerned about compaction? Tim Fichtel Tue, 22 Jan 2008 08:35:22 -0600 29637 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29649 At 16.25 inches, they needed to be replaced awhile back. Look carefully at the seed boot, too. Tue, 22 Jan 2008 06:47:49 -0600 29649 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29648 Looking to buy a 750 JD drill, disk openers measure 16 1/4. I need to know how small the disk can be worn before needing replaced. Tue, 22 Jan 2008 02:18:23 -0600 29648 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29640 I raise fescue for seed production and, this spring I will be notilling corn into fescue grass sod for the first time. Everything I have heard suggests straight row cleaners over both coulters or coulter/row cleaner combinations ( which is also my experience in residues such as corn on corn or into full wheat stubble, where there is a lot of residue on the surface but the soil has some tilth underneath). My situation is: I will have very little surface residue, but the ground is completely root bound with the remaining crowns of dead plants, I was wondering if anyone had any experience with notilling into killed perennial grasses, and if so would they recommend row cleaners or coulters for getting through the root masses?? (On the back I have keetons with a mojo wire, being closed with one martin closing wheel and one dimple wheel, with a drag chain, and plan to have reduced inner diameter gauge wheels by spring) any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated! Mon, 21 Jan 2008 20:05:02 -0600 29640 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29636 I know what you mean. I used to wait for the ground to dry out and I missed my good planting dates. When I listened to Paul Reed I took the coulters off and now plant when it is damp, almost tacky, get much better yields. If you are dead set you need coulters, keep them. Can you lift them up or take them off and try some early beans? When I need them now after 13 years I missed my good planting yield window. Best advice I can give you but do what you feel comfortable with. Mon, 21 Jan 2008 15:44:47 -0600 29636 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29635 one follow up to this we have the not till coulters on the planter ( JD 1750) would you leave them on. They saved our skin last spring as it was dry and the ground was hard making it extremely difficult to get the seed in the ground Thanks Tim Fichtel Mon, 21 Jan 2008 12:02:42 -0600 29635 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29634 Martin cleans better because of its patented diamond tooth hard steel, and lasts longer in my opinion. I don't see how you can beat their wheel compared to the ones I have seen. Sun, 20 Jan 2008 13:29:49 -0600 29634 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29633 Hello ! I have the Martin Floating Row Cleaners on my planter. I had the rigid row cleaners but when I went to strip till and added the fertilizer coulters, I needed the row cleaners to be able to float, to give the near perfect seed bed throughout the field. I have been 100% corn on corn for couple years now and they have worked great. One down fall is if you had to work the ground, to take out some ruts, they will dig in. Do that work in the fall if possible, then no problem. Before I always set the cleaners so they would only remove the residue and very little dirt. With the floaters, the way they are designed, you will move more dirt but, it does make a very nice even smooth spot to plant into. I am Martin front to back and very happy with everything. Fri, 18 Jan 2008 07:09:59 -0600 29633 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29632 Does any one have an opinion on Martin Floating Row Cleaners vs. Yetter Shark tooth. We are 100% notill and currently have fixed yetter row cleaners. want to update and need to decide soon. Thanks Tim Fichtel Thu, 17 Jan 2008 12:39:58 -0600 29632 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29630 I wouldn't try that but if you do, tell us your results. The Martin wheels till gently beside and below the seed to give the trench a garden like, crumbly result. They are merely 13 residue wheels mounted backwards which makes perfect sense once you see them work. Non RID tires were designed for tillage so in true one pass strip till this system works best together. If you set your planter or drill up correctly, they won't spit out seeds. You may need to shim the wheels farther apart or move them closer to each other for more tillage. I don't see any advantage to the Curvetine Wheels, I would rather have the rubber. They do little in my observerations compared to the true spading wheel. They are like using a 4 hp tiller when you need a 10 hp for your garden. If you like them, go for them but I don't see combining wheels when a set works best. Ed Winkle Tue, 15 Jan 2008 16:49:49 -0600 29630 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29629 Wally, I forgot to respond to your last item. Yes, some spoked closing wheel designs have a tendency to pull seeds loose. These are predominately the ones with long slender spokes. You can chop the ends off the spokes, or go to wheels with more appropriately shaped spokes. ====== Matt Hagny, consulting agronomist since '94, founder Exapta Solutions ('99) Sun, 13 Jan 2008 07:54:29 -0600 29629 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29628 Wally, Not everyone agrees that the indented gauge tire is an improvement for the JD/Kinze/White planters. This topic has been discussed heavily in this forum and others (search the archives). For a quick synopsis of the troubles with indented gauge tires, see this page (scroll down): http://exapta.com/knowledge/tipplanter.html As for the firming and closing actions, you really are better off to keep those separate. Seed firming is best accomplished at the seed location. Then you can have loose soil over the seed, which is desirable. Best regards, ====== Matt Hagny, consulting agronomist since '94, founder Exapta Solutions ('99) Sun, 13 Jan 2008 07:50:09 -0600 29628 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29627 Has anyone used a martin on one side and a dawn on the other side? Are they even the same size? I am thinking that would give some seed firming as will as the closing from the bottom up with the Martins. I do some planting for the guy next to me, he likes to disk 1st. Would the set up of both of them give me good preformance in both my no till and his disk fields? I have some contours to plant on all my ground, kind of thinking the Martins might pull out some seeds if I put them both on? Sat, 12 Jan 2008 22:04:13 -0600 29627 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29516 Ed, With all due respect, many producers were doing low-disturbance NT before it was called "nu-till" -- the components (low-disturbance fertilizer opener, row cleaner, Keeton or seed-lock wheel, pop-up fertilizer delivery, and spoked closing wheel) have been available since the early 1990s from a number of manufacturers. Martin has been on the scene a long time and commands some market share just because of that early presence, plus their relationship with AgSpectrum and other dealer networks. Doesn't mean their stuff is best, just marketed heavily. I realize they have a lot of happy customers. So does Exapta. I would encourage everyone to evaluate all products (OEM and aftermarket) on the merits. Respectfully, ===== Matt Hagny, consulting agronomist since '94, founder of Exapta Solutions ('99) Thu, 10 Jan 2008 09:17:44 -0600 29516 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29626 Gee Wally, I used to have that part number memorized but that was years ago! The patent went off so others make that tire now too. There is a heavier rubber that last longer and there is a softer rubber that does a better job in the Martin setup. You can contact Howard Martin at Martin Industries in Ky or his top dealer at Moeller Ag Supply in Iowa and they can explain this and get you what you need. Frank calls Dave Moeller "Doc" because he and his cousins and Howard and his sons pioneered this advanced notill setup and have advised thousands of farmers how to plant better without tillage. They are both listed on Tim Reinhart's Ag Links: http://www.agri-links.com/link.html Discount houses like Shoup and R E Skillings carry whatever they can get the best price on. I see the Keeton is over thirty dollars now. http://reskillings.com/ Hope this helps and happy notilling! See you guys at NNTC today in Cincinnati! Ed Winkle Wed, 09 Jan 2008 06:23:42 -0600 29626 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29625 Would someone happen to have the part number for the IH guage wheels. I talked to the IH dealer today, but he was not sure one the wheel that would fit on the JD planter. Thanks again Wally. Tue, 08 Jan 2008 12:16:33 -0600 29625 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29624 Will the IH guage wheels fit on the JD 7000 hub? If so what's the best way to put them on? Thanks, Wally Kuntz. Mon, 07 Jan 2008 11:13:27 -0600 29624 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29622 I agree with your fertilizer rep and Mr. Hagny. That is too far away to accomplish what you want to do. We do some weed and feed but that can be iffy. Without spending money on a different planter or modifications, I can't give you a better answer. Ed Winkle Sat, 29 Dec 2007 21:52:16 -0600 29622 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29515 Are the square-edged chains necesary or would a good heavy smooth chain work for drag chains behind the rows? Thanks! Fri, 28 Dec 2007 00:24:08 -0600 29515 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29514 Your last paragraph exactly describes what the Martin system does, Matt. We tried a lot of different attachments before we settled on that one. I would be surprised if it is not the number one planter attachment setup in this country. That doesn't mean it is best for everyone, lots of farmers seem to be quite happy with their original manufactured notill planter. I was not. I had to wait too long to let the soil dry enough to keep the coulter from slabbing my soil, changing my plant roots and reducing my yield. Thu, 27 Dec 2007 07:16:48 -0600 29514 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29512 If you think about the shape of the spoke/tine as it engages the soil, you will get some idea of the pros and cons of each design. Long slender spokes (row cleaner wheels) tend to go deep and do lots of lifting and flinging of soil chunks. Sometimes they can pull seeds out. Doesn't matter which direction they're installed, they still have this tendency. Spacing them farther from the row helps alleviate it. Some people have gone so far as to chop about 1.25" off the end of each spoke to make them stop digging so deep. Some other designs have a relatively flat 'foot' engaging the soil, which results in relatively little sidewall breakage and too much packing over the seed. In some conditions, they work well, however. If you are doing true no-till, your best choice will involve slicing a clean furrow, firming the seed at the bottom of the trench, and then closing gently by crumbling. ===== Matt Hagny, consulting agronomist since '94, founder of Exapta Solutions ('99) Tue, 25 Dec 2007 07:18:50 -0600 29512 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29615 Coulters are definatly not required for the Early Riser opener system. I run fixed row cleaners, Rebounders, and one JS serrated closing disk with the serrations in the foward(most agressive) position, one stock closing disk, with heavy duty down pressure springs on the closing disk arm. I have used this system getting near perfect stands in corn. Any time the ground is dry enough to disk it is dry enough to plant with this system. Mon, 24 Dec 2007 14:20:35 -0600 29615 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29620 18 inches is a long way, but it would probably suffice since you've got some pop-up to carry the plant a little while. I think you would be better off just dribbling the N on the surface about 5 inches from the row, unless you are in a really dry climate. Or you could surface-apply the N a few weeks prior to planting. Mon, 24 Dec 2007 07:52:24 -0600 29620 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29621 12-23-07 Paul Lanpher in response to Todd West. We have been putting down a full rate of nitrogen with our spring strip-till machine and planting corn the same day for the past 6 or 7 years. The C-Jet spreads the nitrogen under the seedbed where the corn plant will get it quickly, but far enough from the seed where it doesn't hurt the corn plant. For more information on spring strip-till, visit web page www.bigriver.net/~planpher. I hope you find something here that will help you grow more corn. Paul Lanpher. Sun, 23 Dec 2007 21:41:26 -0600 29621 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29619 I was wanting to put down some N at planting. Here is my situation: My planter is wing-fold JD 7000, and the way it folds there is no room for fertilizer openers. So last year for popup I went with in-furrow through Keetons (which was great), then side-dressed 28% with a set of cultivators. My planter was built for beans: 8 row 36" with 9 other units in between to make it a 17 row 18" planter. I just shut off the 9 rows and planted 8 rows of corn with it, and then went back to plant beans. I am going to put in-furrow fertilizer with Keetons on the other 9 rows for the beans anyway. For corn, if I put 28% through the odd rows at planting (and then go back in later for a split application), that would mean the N would be 18" from the corn rows. Is that too far away that early? Obviously when you side-dress you run down the centers, but the roots are more developed and the N can get to them quicker. I just had this thought this fall when trying to think of a better way to split apply my N. My fertilizer salesman/ soil tester was a little leary of doing it, so I just wanted to get some other feedback. Thanks much! Sat, 22 Dec 2007 21:59:39 -0600 29619 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29513 I have a set of Martin closing wheels to put on. I was wondering which would be best: 2 spiked closing wheels or 1 spiked and 1 rubber? And if one of each, how does that help if they are both about the same diameter? Thanks, Todd Sat, 22 Dec 2007 21:35:14 -0600 29513 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29590 You will never get this system to work. You are not the only one. My neighbor and I bought this same system new and deere never could make either system work. We had the same problems you are having. After two years of frustration my neighbor sold his system and after four years of excuses from my dealer an deere I finally gave up and threw mine in the trash. I now go to all the farm shows that I can and stand by the deere booth and advertise for them until everyone leaves. I never got anything but excuses from deere. Wed, 12 Dec 2007 21:02:30 -0600 29590 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29366 I have had same problem on a 2002 SDX starting 2 years ago at about 10000 acres.Last winter upgraded too the next generation spindle using old hubs and new bearings and seals.Big project.I would like to hear if you are still using the SDX. Tue, 11 Dec 2007 21:34:32 -0600 29366 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29617 What is the best method to be sure the bearing is centered when replacing the guage wheel tire. I have to take apart and do over to get the wheel to spin true and not wobble. Thanks. Sat, 24 Nov 2007 15:36:03 -0600 29617 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29614 I am new to no till and have a lot of questions I currently no till some wheat and sudan grass with a 5100 int soybean special drill with a yetter no till cutter mounted in front of drill. I would like to no till milo and soybeans this spring with a 6 -30 international 800 air planter. The book shows that you can buy cutters that mount on the frame of the planter. Is this all that is required to convert this planter ( I have not priced this yet). Before I do this I would like some input from others. Is this planter a good no till unit (is it heavy enough?) Will additional parts be nescessary to make it work. I only farm about 120 crop acres so I dont want to spend an incredible amount of money making conversions. Tue, 13 Nov 2007 16:23:20 -0600 29614 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29611 I have used a 15' JD750 drill for the past 10 years and have an opportunity to purchase some used 1560 openers that I can put under my drill frame. I remember reading an article in no-till farmer about someone who widened out the row spacing to add a couple extra feet to the overall width of the drill. Has anyone done this or know where I can find information on how it was down? Fri, 26 Oct 2007 07:28:25 -0500 29611 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29606 Mon, 08 Oct 2007 06:55:00 -0500 29606 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29570 I use Keetons with redballs and an electric pump and it works great.When I went from dry starter to liquid in the row I bought new Keeton tails set up for liquid, snapped them on, plumbed them in and haven't looked back. Fri, 14 Sep 2007 12:34:11 -0500 29570 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29604 Hello everyone, I am new to no-till this year although I have been interested for the last couple years. I have residue in some of my fields that is in narrow strips or "windrows". I would Like to spread it out prior to a burndown application. I have a 42 foot 16 bar harrow in my "tillage arsenal" that I usually pull with an 8650 4wd. My question is, can I take off 8 rows and pull it with my 4440? Or should I just use all 16 bars and the bigger tractor. Thanks in advance, Craig S. Fri, 24 Aug 2007 21:37:22 -0500 29604 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29602 Thanks Mark, I may mix some oats in with the grass seed mix to act as a nurse crop and increase the volume of seed through the meters. The residue in the field should be minimal. I'm going to use roundup with 2,4D for broadleaf here in about another week or so before I plant. Ernie Fri, 24 Aug 2007 10:17:35 -0500 29602 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29601 Will a 750 seed 1/2" deep acurately? YES. Use very little down pressure and it will work. Your heavier seed (clover) is gonna feed out first in the big box. Why don't you drill the grass seed and spread the clover in a spreader cart mixed fertilizer? I've done this many times with good success. Mark Fri, 17 Aug 2007 05:33:41 -0500 29601 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29595 I'm familiar with Pix-all type rolls, if that's the type of corn head chopping action that you are asking about. The answer to all your questions would be yes , in my opinion. Corn head induced stalk destruction should help BT stalks degrade sooner. Mark Fri, 17 Aug 2007 05:27:47 -0500 29595 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29600 Hi, I have a 15' JD 750 no-till drill without the grass attachment, but would like to plant a pasture mix. The mix is basically orchardgrass, ryegrass, and clover. Can I accurately run this mixture through the large seed box? The other thing I noticed is the seed dealer reccomends a seeding depth of 1/2" here in Pa. and I'm not sure if it will plant that shallow with the opener disk raised all the way up. Does anyone have any experience with this? By the way, I priced the grass seed kit from JD and it was $2200.00. They don't make the kit for the 750 any more, but the current model kit will work with some modification, I was told. If worse comes to worse, I can rent a Haybuster 107 to get it done. Thanks Thu, 16 Aug 2007 12:11:47 -0500 29600 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29594 Can someone compare John Deere corn head performance to Old CaseIH or to Geringhoff or Drago where the stalk roll knives come together? Is it an advantage for no-till corn on corn? Will the stalk break down quicker? OR does the material form a mat which prevents soil warm up? Does the stalk remain attached? Does the material blow and wash more ? Thanks Thu, 16 Aug 2007 06:31:33 -0500 29594 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29592 sorry please delete Sun, 29 Jul 2007 17:31:38 -0500 29592 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29589 I'm running John Deeres GreenStar GPS AutoTrac system with the SF2 signal on a Deere 8870 with a 8 row zone-till on the 3 point hitch at 4.5 MPH. Later coming with a 16 row corn planter. I am having trouble with receiving constant accuracy with the GPS system. I will be in an open field with a constant 90-100% signal and 100% accuracy. I will go for a number of passes and each one will line up with the previous pass, with a constant of 0-3 inches off, down the whole row. Then I'll get to a pass where in spots the tractor goes off 13-14 in. and nothing has changed with the signal quality or terrain of the field. Does anyone know how I can get a constant accuracy across the entire field. Fri, 27 Jul 2007 14:20:37 -0500 29589 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29587 John: Thanks so much for the fast reply. I came to the same conclusion that you did. I am leaning to utilizing one of a couple of choices of two row planter systems with a no-till coulter mounted in front - possibly with residue managers. I'm going to either go with the old JD7000 series planters or a Yetter Flex 71 type or maybe even one of the new MaxEmerge planters. The reason for this choice is weight primarily but also cost. The planter units weigh 150 pounds, the coulter units 100 pounds, and the presswheels another 20 pounds. That gives me nearly 300 pounds of downpressure weight per seed drop. On the Great Plains, it equates to 253 pounds per seed drop although I'm sure more weight can be added. The kicker is cost - the Great Plains is a $10,000+ investment whereas I can do a two-row ATV pull system with a high speed winch (3 second up or down for fast turnaround) for less than $4,000. Keep in mind that my planting time is early, early spring. In Alabama, our soils are super moist at that time of year and slice up like butter. That is where the advantage of an ATV pull system comes into play. I can ride on existing chicory/clover when the soil is moist and not worry about creating ruts with the tires. I think this will be my best timing to open a clean furrow and be able to drop the seed effectively. Check out this link for video although it doesn't show the no-till coulter option but you can imagine a frame in front of the planter frame where the coulter would be mounted in-line. He can mount any conventional planter on that frame assembly as well as any type coulter in front of it.: http://www.outdooressentialsllc.com/rowmodel.html The last thing that makes a big no-till less attractive is the spacing that I need to plant the cowpeas. At a minimum, I need 28" between rows and a Great Plains type would require that I plug off most of the openings to achieve proper row spacing. I am most likely going to plant at 36" spacing which is near the maximum recommended for cowpeas. The reason for that is that the chicory has to be mowed to keep the stems from bolting which makes it less productive and palatable. Believe it or not I plan to mow 6-7 acres between rows with a 30" deck Snapper riding mower 1-2 times per summer. Man, what we do to grow big deer. Anyhow, feel free to shoot holes in it - I need all the feedback I can get. I'm probably going to give it a try and see if it works. These ATV planting units are the newest tool for deer farmers and pretty easy to re-sell at a small loss. Tue, 26 Jun 2007 05:50:22 -0500 29587 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29586 From what I see I do not believe the old JD FB drill will to the job you want done. Inter-planting anything into a growing crop is always a challenge because the existing crop tries to suppress the new seedlings. I would recommend getting something like a small Great Plains or Truax no-till that is designed to do the job. Tye has had a small mounted drill they call a "Pasture Pleaser" for many years and you might be able to find a used one somewhere. This will costs more, but buying something that does not work is not a good idea either. Getting a disc opener to cut into hard soil and existing sod takes a sharp blade and lots of weight. A shank type opener will pull itself into the soil, but they disturb more soil. But narrow shanks 15 inches apart only going a couple inches deep should not totally ruin your pasture and might do it a little good. Dragging a light harrow behind the drill would probably be a good idea. The link shows a small mounted GP notill drill. BTW, a single disc opener should work as well and maybe better than a double disc opener. http://www.greatplainsmfg.com/products/compact/3p605nt.pdf Sat, 23 Jun 2007 02:01:42 -0500 29586 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29585 Hopefully I won't offend any of you farmers (God bless ya'll for doing what you do) or take up space on this forum. I am a deer farmer in Georgia and Alabama searching for a no-till option for my mixed chicory/clover stands for summer forage mainly. I would like to no-till an annual forage pea/bean like Lablab or forage soybeans into these stands of mixed chicory/clover. The reason that I want to do this is to hedge my limited acreage of forage against drought devasation of my summer forages. If the beans/peas get taken out by drought, I've still got a perennial chicory stand that does well in our drought conditions. Anyhow, I am looking for a reasonably well performing piece of equipment that doesn't totally tear up the chicory/clover and can still seed the summer beans/peas at 0.5" - 1" deep. I won't rely on yield like ya'll do but would like reasonable performance. I am working with a loamy clay in my part of the world but the main issue is rocks - about grapefruit size mainly. With no-till I think I can plant slower than my current drop seeder which should minimize any damage to discs/coulters. All of the smaller no-tills that I need for smaller irregular shaped fields that I plant are single disc openers and are fairly pricey ($4,000 and up which is chump change for ya'll) for what I want to do. I can get a totally refurbished JD Model FB from a custom shop in Texas for about $2,000 that has coulters or spike shanks added to it and probably can get press wheels added to it to replace the drill chains for about another $500. In effect, I will be about half the cost of the lowest price food plot model from Sukup which has spring tines and single disc openers only. I will have to close off every other tube hole to get enough spacing for the peas/beans without shading out the chicory/clover too much from what the fella at the co-op says and put them on 15" spacing. My question is I am looking at dismal failure with the FB and should I go with the shanks and coulters together, shanks only, or coulters and single discs - given that I am going to hit some rocks. Also considering the depth which I need to plant. I will be planting in early spring and try to time with a rain to get adequate depth control. If I sound like someone that knows little about what he's doing it's because I am! I've got a no-till soybean farmer that works with me at a lumber mill and he is most concerned about not having double disc openers for the large size seed. Any advice would be appreciated. You can go here for some pictures of the machine on another forum that I consult for advice: http://www.qdmaforums.com/showthread.php?t=9815 Sat, 16 Jun 2007 12:23:38 -0500 29585 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29583 I would increase the down pressure. You might have to put weights on the drill. Wed, 30 May 2007 14:06:15 -0500 29583 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29582 I have a 750 no-till drill and want to plant into corrugated ground. The problem that I'm having is that the discs that ride the ridges do not allow the the discs that is suppose to be in the bottom of the corrugations to drop. Does anyone know enough about this drill to make the adjustment? I do know that this drill had been used for this application. Mon, 28 May 2007 20:32:05 -0500 29582 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29576 Take your time and learn. RTB! Read the book, the manual and make needed adjustments. The numbers on the meter openings will be low like 10 or so but don't hold me to that. RTB. If it is grassy and damp all you need to do is create a small slot, very shallow and just covered the seed. Don't bury it. Hope this helps! Ed Winkle Mon, 07 May 2007 06:58:52 -0500 29576 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29575 i rented a jd 750 drill to plant biomaxx wildlife seed. it is mixture of rr corn and soybeans. Recommend planting it at 45 lbs per acre. Any advice on what to set seeding rate at, depth, etc. Never used a notill drill before. Thanks Fri, 04 May 2007 15:36:22 -0500 29575 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29573 I guess I would replace them pretty quick. We ran ours down to 15.5 inches and there was wear on the openers. Wed, 02 May 2007 22:27:33 -0500 29573 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29572 Last Year I moved my seed boots up to the upper hole to compensate for blade wear. This year my blades are measuring 16 inches in diameter. I am just wondering how long I can run these blades before boot wear becomes an issue. Tue, 01 May 2007 01:58:21 -0500 29572 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29569 Was wanting some ideas on best way (from pump to furrow) for getting fertilizer on in the row. Was thinking electric pump through Redball to Keetons. Of course one of the first guys I talked tosaid Keetons would be a mistake. I've personally used Keetons in the past w/out liquid and got along fine with them. Same guy said he uses a roller pump through a controller to Rebounders (of course he sells Rebounders). I'm using a low volume, lower analysis fertilizer blended for in-row. Thanks, Todd Fri, 27 Apr 2007 22:19:38 -0500 29569 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29567 Our Soil and Water Conservation District rents No-Till drills. We are having problems with our 15ft JD 1560 no-till drills. We keep breaking the rockshafts, like 4 in the past 5 years. Mainly the rear rockshalfts but the last one was the front. Anyone else haveing problems with the rockshafts. Thu, 26 Apr 2007 14:34:28 -0500 29567 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29565 I see Ed Winkle stating that he prefers JD SD openers a lot. Seeing how the object is to move as little soil as possible, am I correct in assuming that the delivery preference is a tube behind the disc? Our planter has a shoe next to the disc that plugs. Tue, 24 Apr 2007 11:39:23 -0500 29565 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29563 Hello ! I looked at doing the same thing at one time. Yetter makes a unit called T.O.W. Fertilizer Opener. Don't know much about it but I went another direction with all Martin . Good Luck Denny Mon, 16 Apr 2007 09:07:01 -0500 29563 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29562 I looking some advice from you guys about corn fert. placements behind the row units. Or in other words the last tillage step off of the planter. If any of you are doing this are know someone or know of what epuipment companis make such attachments. Thanks in advance, James Sat, 14 Apr 2007 10:08:57 -0500 29562 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29489 I was in your shoes a year ago, just saw your poist now-sorry. http://www.paul-julia.com/planter.shtm Wed, 11 Apr 2007 11:06:17 -0500 29489 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29519 Kinze bean meters are awesome-way better than Deere cups. Sloan Express makes a cheaper knockoff of the Kinze that seems to work very well. Wed, 11 Apr 2007 11:04:18 -0500 29519 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29376 I haven't been back to this formum in a while-I need to check in more. I think you probably know by now-but for everyone else: I ended up with Yetter Floating Row Cleaners, Keatons, Martin Spliked Closing wheel and Chains, Precision Corn meters and Kinze Bean meters. IH Gauge wheels. Could not be happier with results last year in corn, in beans I am going back to rubber press wheels for closing. I am considering doing the same thing to a 12 row in the next year or two. If I do I am going to evaluate the new Dawn curvetine on one row before making a decision. Also will probably go with Martin over yetter for row cleaners just because they seem built a little heavier. Other than that I won't change a thing! Thanks to all here who helped me. Wed, 11 Apr 2007 11:01:07 -0500 29376 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29511 Who would have imagined that row cleaners turned backwards would do that job of tilling beside and below the seed? I thank the Reed boys and cousin David Moeller for figuring that out. Ed Wed, 11 Apr 2007 08:55:06 -0500 29511 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29505 I'm Martin, front to back on my planter. I can't imagine anything out there that would work any better. Mark Fri, 30 Mar 2007 22:23:53 -0500 29505 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29560 I agree with Ed. I have the complete Martin setup on my planter and love it with great results. Martin floating row cleaners, N coulter right behind the the trash wheels, starter applied in furrow with the keeton seed firmers, spiked closing wheels, just floating with the drag chains. Makes for great chance of very good, even emergence. Wed, 28 Mar 2007 04:54:01 -0500 29560 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29559 I try to not throw ANY soil, that is why we like the JD single disk opener. Try no coulter, you will love it, plant earlier and potentially gain more yeild. If you must learn like me, I went from moldboard to chisel to wavy to straight to none. Complete Martin setup. N and Sulfur beside furrow and popup in row makes notill just about unscrewupable and unbeatable in yield and profit. Tue, 27 Mar 2007 07:10:03 -0500 29559 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29558 I currently have the 3 coulter Rawson system on my JD 7000 planter and inject 32% behind the outside coulters. I am going to install Martin trash wipers. I am thinking about moving the outside coulters away from the row a little more and changing to 13 wave coulters to minimize the amount of loose soil that contacts the gauge wheels. Will I be able to remove the center coulter (13 wave), switch to a smooth coulter blade to cut the corn stalks, or should I continue to use the 13 wave coulter? I am also changing to single disk dry fertilizer openers and plan to throw the dirt to the outside. What are your thoughts on use of the existing coulter setup? Tue, 27 Mar 2007 06:22:43 -0500 29558 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29556 I would like to know if anyone has put markers from a corn planter, any brand of planter, on a 750 JD drill. Also what you used for the hydraulic system, and how you attached the markers to the drill. Mon, 26 Mar 2007 21:37:47 -0500 29556 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29374 I do not recommend JD bean meters. I bought them new 4 years ago and fought with them for 3 years. This past year I bought Kinze bean meters during the planting season because I was having so much downtime. I did not have a single problem with the Kinze meters and you don't have to change settings as you do on the JD meters. I went back to the JD dealer and made my case for them not to sell any more of them. At the time they did not appreciate me. Mon, 26 Mar 2007 20:41:08 -0500 29374 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29552 I am sure you could make it work, Matthew. The best setup I have seen for the true VEE openers like that planter and all but IH is the Martin setup and it works best with new double disk openers and all the other parts of the system to make the true vee imitate the Case IH. Many think it is even better modified this way. I found a scrap 5100 White and built it from the ground up with the Martin system. I couldn't buy a new notill planter as good, maybe more reliable but I doubt it. I am sure it would be prettier! I have seen 300 bu corn and 100 bu soybeans out of this old planter so I doubt I will be trading up soon! I had a 400 Cyclo for years and I love it in beans but never could get the right population in corn. Others sure do. Supposedly the world record for corn yields came out of the Case IH row unit so no wonder notillers want to imitate it. I do. Ed Winkle Fri, 23 Mar 2007 20:02:37 -0500 29552 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29551 Is there any advantage to the staggered disc openers like IH planters have compared to the true-v openers JD and other planters have? I have heard of people putting on 1 new disc per row and sharpening the other disc to make a staggered opener.Is it possible to do and has anyone tried this and how does it work? Also, interested in Y-not split it's or totally tubular in row fertilizer, which one works better? Thu, 22 Mar 2007 09:53:53 -0500 29551 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29549 I work for the conservation district in Huron county MI. We have rented JD 750,1560 and 1590 drills to producers for years and have gotten along just fine with JD markers. We have just purchased a Jd 1990 CCS 30'. We have been told the frame work for the marker system is good but the disc system on the end does'nt work well. Has anyone used a different disc assembly on the Deere arm and if so, what manufactureand how is it working? Tue, 20 Mar 2007 11:11:01 -0500 29549 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29443 Blumhardt offers some good products, we set up our JD1560 for liquid and we're pretty happy with the set-up. Just Google Blumhardt Equipment Sun, 18 Mar 2007 16:27:14 -0500 29443 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29509 The Schlagel is better than any stock ones but I prefer the Martin spading closing wheels. Simply small residue cleaners run the opposite direction. They till gently beside and above the furrow. Warmed the soil 10 degrees Tuesday when we tried the planter out again. Only took from noon to four to reach that temp, too. Fri, 16 Mar 2007 21:14:34 -0500 29509 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29547 Can anyone give me info on a John Deere 1500 no till drill. We want to get a drill for our hunting club. Is this a good choice. What is one worth in good condition. Thanks Charles Tue, 13 Mar 2007 22:58:16 -0500 29547 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29545 I remember seeing a sidress applicator w/ coulters for a john deere sp sprayer i think it was made in iowa can anyone tell me who makes it or where i can get one? Thu, 08 Mar 2007 15:28:32 -0600 29545 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29508 I'm also looking for closing wheel info. I was seriously considering the Schlagels especially since they have a money back guarantee, but now I'm not so sure. Can anyone be more specific on why they don't work well? Thanks. Tue, 06 Mar 2007 10:38:07 -0600 29508 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29507 Hello, I use the Martins with the chains and they do a great job. I did recieve a tip from the planter guy to weld the first 3 or 4 links and the chains won't flip up onto the wheels. I am Martin front to back and like them all Tue, 06 Mar 2007 06:09:06 -0600 29507 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29543 Brian, I have been using the Martin closing wheels for 3 years and love them. I run it with no down pressure and let the drag chain help smooth out. If you put to much down pressure on any spike tooth closer, it could damage the seed wall. I do strip till and I have great, even stands. I did attend a planter meeting with the Planter Man and he said to weld the first 3 or 4 links together. That stops the chain flipping up onto the wheels. Tue, 06 Mar 2007 06:05:08 -0600 29543 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29542 Does anyone have experience with the Thompson closing wheel vs. the tried and true Martin closing wheel? How do the prices compare and how long do they last? Thanks! Mon, 05 Mar 2007 08:02:14 -0600 29542 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29531 Buz, You'll be ok with 85Hp. I have a 6410 MFWD fully weighted on a 2pt 15' 1560 and the tractor has no problem at all on level ground. On slopes its a little more work but so far I have had no big issues. Sat, 03 Mar 2007 21:33:37 -0600 29531 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29540 Greetings everyone, I am about to undertake a new farm project, and want to buy a new tractor. I do not know what tractor to buy. Will be creating raised vegetable and culinary herb beds, and forsee some conservation tilling the first year, then no tilling after that. I am unfamiliar with most of your farming/notill lingo. John Deere comes to mind as a safe guess. Looking for a medium sized farm tractor that is compatible with most farm attachments (especially no till). It seems John Deere makes several types of tractors, including farming ones, and which one is good for this project, or any other tractor company/model? Regards, Chris Thu, 01 Mar 2007 19:07:43 -0600 29540 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29440 I have changed the row widths on half a dozen planters, from mildly (30"-28") to wildly (30" to 20") and it isn't terribly hard. Assuming you are relatively mechanical, have a good eye for backyard engineering your way around unexpected problems, and have enough fabrication ability to make any needed modifications it isn't too hard. Figure out how long it should take, then double your estimate because it is time consuming finishing up a project like that and tying up all the loose ends (lengthening or shortening hyd hoses, moniter harnesses, etc, etc, etc...) Hope this helps. Thu, 01 Mar 2007 10:51:19 -0600 29440 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29538 Has anyone put drag chains on a CIH 950. I have combo res. mang./ coulters, Keeton firmers, and JS Ag closing disks. I have thoughts of removing my press wheel and putting on drag chains, but I have yet to find any manufacturer that makes a chain kit for the Early Riser unit. I have also thought about removing the down pressure spring from the press wheel. I think the press wheel is compacting the surface enough to cause emergence problems. Any help would be appreciated. Thu, 01 Mar 2007 09:27:27 -0600 29538 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29536 Thu, 01 Mar 2007 09:17:22 -0600 29536 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29534 Hi Will Have you been on to the Yetter and Great Plains websites - both supply components. In my experience some of the no-till add-on suppliers are quite small and are not too interested in shipping kit out of US... Sun, 25 Feb 2007 10:32:56 -0600 29534 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29533 I farm in the UK and I'm just beginning to no till here. Growing mainly small grains and forages. Anyway I've got hold of a sukup/ marliss drill which I'm guessing is about 10 years old and have had to give it a bit of a refurb. and improve it on a budget. The drill has a coulter caddy and looks quite like a Great Plains from what I can tell. I have a couple of questions if you guys would be kind enough to answer them for me, as theres not too many no till drills running in the UK 1. After the caddy coulters opens up the slot the double discs are exactly opposite each other and not offset like a lot of new designs. Is this likely to cause a particular problem with clearing away the trash? 2. There is a fair bit of seed bounce in the bottom of the trench as the seed tube is quite short, from what I can tell schaffert rebounders may do a good job of keeping the seed in? Can you make a home made device or perhaps I should import some rebounders? Or do any of the seed lok wheels fit the sukup? 3. The depth control press wheel are rubber and are not that efficent at closing the slot, would something like martin spading wheels do the job for me as a retrofit, or does anybody have any farm built solutions. The harrow behind doesn't seem to do much but our soils are quite moist. 4. The double disc coulters are lacking a bit of penetration, where is the best place to weight down the drill? Thanks in advance. Will Sat, 24 Feb 2007 05:11:32 -0600 29533 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29530 Thanks Scott. Appreciate your input. Thu, 15 Feb 2007 07:02:14 -0600 29530 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29529 JD recommends a minimum of 85hp to pull a 10' 1590. I pulled a 10' last spring in Pennsyvania on 8-12% slopes with a well weighted JD 4000 and it pushed me around a bit. The power of the tractor was not an issue (96hp) but the weight of the drill was (a 10ft weighs 6900lbs empty.) The drill I used had the front dolly and the tractor gets no weight tranferred to it. I'd recommend a 10' for your tractor. Wed, 14 Feb 2007 08:03:19 -0600 29529 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29528 I've been looking at drills and was wondering if my 6415 (86 pto HP) was big enough to pull a 15'. Would 10' be better suited? Thanks. Wed, 14 Feb 2007 00:34:44 -0600 29528 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29375 Paul, Wonder what you have decided on? Ed Tue, 13 Feb 2007 14:03:20 -0600 29375 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29526 I have a customer that has 16-JD Single Disc Fert. Openers off of a 1770NT planter for sale. Openers are two years old and have Hyper Side Knife for liquid application and grease zerks installed in hubs. Blades measure 15 3/4"(New 16") Asking $480.00 ea. Located in SE Iowa. E-mail if you have further questions. Fri, 09 Feb 2007 08:10:45 -0600 29526 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29506 Thank You for answering my post. I have not made any purchases yet, and I'm still gathering infomation.Someone else responded wanting to sell me his used Schagels. I guess that tells me something. Ihave a neighbor that is going to try one Dawn and one original rubber closing wheel. Maybe thats the answer too. Iwish you the best for 2007! Thanks again. Mon, 05 Feb 2007 09:50:01 -0600 29506 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29522 In my area western Wisconsin, 80% of NH3 goes on in the spring, every farmer around here will wait at least 5 days before planting. Farmers have went in the next day but you need to keep the seed away from the NH3 zone, 3-5 inches or your seed could get burned. As for stubble and trash I've just used a NH3 bar with a good single coulter in front of the shank, has worked well in dry corn stalks, & bean stubble. Wed, 31 Jan 2007 07:51:46 -0600 29522 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29521 I am thinking about putting NH3 strips between my old corn rows for corn on corn this spring. How much time must this be put down before I can plant safely? I have a old DMI NH3 bar with just a shank and closing disk. What will I need to put on front to get through the trash? We graze cows so most of the leaves are gone. Can I put a row cleaner in frount or will a coulter work better? Thanks Mon, 29 Jan 2007 14:33:08 -0600 29521 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29518 I've seen the precision meters for corn and am giving them some serious thought, but what meters should I use for beans? Just go with Deere? , or is there something better? What would be used to plant milo? Thanks, Buz Brandes Mon, 29 Jan 2007 07:23:10 -0600 29518 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29510 We are going to put a set of martins with a drag chain on our planter. They work really well for my neighbor's. Tried a row of schlagels 3 years ago. Don't want to say anything bad about anybodys product, but they didn't work at all for us. The rubber wheels did a better job than them if that tells you anything. Dawn's aren't bad but they still try to close the row from the top down. We are getting martin's because we like the idea of closing the row from the bottom up. Compaction is a big deal for us here in kansas no-tilling in to wheat stubble.Use the info how you would like, my opinion is worth what you paid for it. Good Luck Sat, 27 Jan 2007 15:10:34 -0600 29510 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29500 I don't know I can't figure the drill out. I had just the opposite thought as what you recommended. The more I raised the coulters up the less the drill plugged up. We really liked to be able to really let the drill in the ground, especially if the farm had just been limed. It did a nice job working the lime in. My cell # is 785-562-7635 give me a call if you are interested in the turbo blades. Wed, 24 Jan 2007 17:46:43 -0600 29500 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29504 I'm looking for feedback form anyone using a different type of closing wheel for a JD planter. I'm wanting to no-till corn on corn. I've looked at the Schagel wheel and the T-whee featured in this months no-till magazine. Please HELP! They both look like the would work. Tue, 23 Jan 2007 18:18:26 -0600 29504 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29499 Eric I have a Great Plains 3010 No-till precison drill with turbo coulters. I have found that running them to shallow is worst than too deep. I love them in heavy ground because they do'nt throw up chunks of soil. I've used them since the first year they where offered. If you want to sell them, I'm interested. Tue, 23 Jan 2007 18:11:42 -0600 29499 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29502 Has anyone ever used the Salford RTS machine, i'm new to no till (been conventional all my career) I'm seriously considering going to no till, but i still would like a slight bit of tillage...maybe vertical tillage..This machine sounds and looks good, just wondering if anyone has had any experience with it. Thanks Wed, 17 Jan 2007 23:53:57 -0600 29502 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29194 The simplicity of the system & accuracy the eSet kit gave me the the best stands from my JD vac planter. This kit allows you to plant any seed size with any seed coating, & have the most perfect stand a person could ask for. I've tried all the deere plates, & the accu vac, none have preformed the way this meter has. Tue, 16 Jan 2007 06:06:49 -0600 29194 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29498 I started out with new tubo coulter's. Couldn't stand them, so I put the old one's back on. I got them raised up so they were only running about1 1/2 -2 inches deep. That made the drill better but it would still plug up every know and then. I was drilling wheat into corn stubble , wheat stubble, and bean stubble. What really makes me scratch my head is when it plugs up in light bean stubble. I was thinking about getting a bubble coulter or something that isn't very aggressive. Looking for ideas before I spend any more money on it. If any one is looking for a set of turbo coulters I have 38 of them that only have 300 acres on them.. Price is right if any one is interested. Fri, 12 Jan 2007 08:55:04 -0600 29498 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29494 I went with the 13 wave coulter. Hope I made the right choice. Thu, 11 Jan 2007 17:50:55 -0600 29494 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29497 How about some more information. What coulters are you using? Turbo Coulter? How deep is it running? What kind of residue are you seeding into and how heavy is it? What have you done to try to fix the problem? Thu, 11 Jan 2007 01:31:20 -0600 29497 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29193 Jeremey Could you please expand on why you think the precision planting kit is the way to go. I have some knowledge of this system.What are the advantages and the disadvantages. Wed, 10 Jan 2007 16:46:14 -0600 29193 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29496 Have had nothing but grief, with my 2410 great plains no-till drill. Trash plugs up between coulters and opening disks. Any help or ideas would be appreciated. Tue, 09 Jan 2007 21:42:39 -0600 29496 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29373 Paul As along term no-tiller your ideas are great! Hang in there. The best peace of advice I can give you is to make contact with an outher no-tiller in your area. None of us need to reinvent the wheel. I am in northern IL if you are anywhere close I would help. Cade Tue, 09 Jan 2007 20:17:38 -0600 29373 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29372 I prefer the SunCo trash wheels over anything else I have seen. You really ought to give them a bit of your time and consideration. You might also consider a disc closing system. Good luck! Sun, 07 Jan 2007 21:15:18 -0600 29372 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29439 Do you have enough toolbar to extend things? By narrow row do you mean something like 30" ..and wide maybe 40"..?? If so, you would need 2 feet of extra toolbar to extend it. If this is not what you meant, my apologies. It should not be that much work. Just unbolt the row, and scoot it over. Sun, 07 Jan 2007 21:11:19 -0600 29439 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29493 I need new coulters for my planter as the current ones are worn down. I was plannng on the bubble coulter, but some of my reading is suggesting a 12-13 wave coulter. I can't recall my exact soil types but it's southeastern Ohio and the fields are gently rolling. Most with good drainage, some bottomland which is(Chagrin silt loam - I think). I'll be planting in corn stubble this spring. I don't have row cleaners. What other factors should you consider when choosing a coulter? Once again, rookie questions from a new guy just trying to do it right the first time. Thanks. Buz Brandes Sun, 07 Jan 2007 19:53:45 -0600 29493 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29488 The precision planting backing plate 3-4 years ago did wear out right away, but they fixed that problem. The new plate's are poly injected molded with high wear metal inserted, these plate's are flatter & wear longer then Deere or Kinze metal plates. Stamped metal plates are known to be warped to some degree from the stamping & heat treat process. also the precision plate has 2 screws to remove the bump area, Only this bump has to be changed not the whole plate. A little rust in your meter, can be cleaned with a wire brush, if you have rusted & pitted fingers, replace the whole finger set. If you only change the bad fingers, the others will fail when you least expect it. New finger sets are not that expensive Fri, 05 Jan 2007 08:58:28 -0600 29488 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29487 Thanks, Jeremy... I checked out the site and ans. some of my own questions. I'm in the process of going over this planter and I havn't pulled the openers to check the seed tubes. Saw the carbide tips on the bullseye, look good. I'll give em a call as I'd like to know what shape my stuff is in. Read somewhere else that there were some real wear issues with the plastic backing plate and that the metal plate was the way to go? Any experience? From what I've seen after breaking down 3 meters, the previous owner replaced the plates and brushes but some of the fingers are pitted and rusty? Should I replace the rusty fingers? will that rough surface trap the seeds? Thu, 04 Jan 2007 15:28:50 -0600 29487 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29486 IF you call (309) 925-5050 or go to, www.precisionplanting.com there is more info on the test stand, they can also tell you where the closest Rep is to you. In short if you take your meters, & a bag of seed corn that you intend to use. the Rep can test run your meters based on row space, population, planting speed, & show how accurate the meter is running at. The higher the percentage of accuracy, the better the your plant stand will be. The Re power kit has new: backing plate, finger set, Surefire seed belt,Skipstop back cover,Bullseye tube, This kit just Re powers your current meters, less the housing,bearing, & drive wheel. New meter is a complete new meter. The bullseye tube is stronger & more durable than stock tubes, these are designed to take more abuse & last longer, If your tube are worn thin at the tips, or have any kind of a crack its time to change. Thu, 04 Jan 2007 08:19:52 -0600 29486 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29399 Hiniker 6000 Thu, 04 Jan 2007 08:14:21 -0600 29399 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29485 What's a Metermax test stand? Where would I go to find this, ?local ag supplier? I've seen the Precision meters and Keeton firmers. What benefit do the bullseye seed tubes do? How do I tell if my current tubes are worn out? What's it mean to repower my current meters? I think my row units are pretty tight so I think the bushings are ok. Sorry for all the novice questions, but like I said, I'm new to this stuff. Love it! Thanks, Buz Thu, 04 Jan 2007 01:56:52 -0600 29485 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29192 The precision planting eSet kit is the best investment i have ever made. The stand are prefect and the spacing has never been better. any deere vac planting need to have this system. Rowekamp Planter Service rocrop@hotmail.com Tue, 02 Jan 2007 09:48:35 -0600 29192 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29484 If this planter has alot of acres throught it, check the parallel linkage bars on the row units. If there is more than a 1-1/1/2 inches of play when you lift up and down, and move the unit side to side. the bushings need some attention. As for your finger units, get them to a MeterMax test stand. If they are whorn at all spend the money & have them repower, or replace with new Precision Planting meters. Also Install the bullseye seed tubes, and keeton seed frimers. a repower plus/ seed tube kit is $90/row New meter/seed tube kit is $179/ row Keeton firmers are $33-35/row this set up will give you the best corn stand & is worth every penny you put in your planter. check there web site www.precisionplanting.com Rowekamp Planter Service rocrop@hotmail.com Tue, 02 Jan 2007 09:37:08 -0600 29484 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29491 What are some recomendations for chaff spreaders ? Our straw spreader does a nice job but still think our soybean chaff could be spread out more. Just wondering what others are doing to improve spring corn planting conditions, especially the area directly behind the combine. We have a Gleaner R65 Thank You. Sun, 31 Dec 2006 14:34:15 -0600 29491 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29483 I'm as new as they get to no-till farming. Just picked up a JD 7000 6 rn. As I've got time to go over this thing, what are the key wear areas to look at. I've ordered new openers and nt coulters . Where else should I look for potential problems. Seems like some of the depth gauge wheels are a little loose on the spindle and will need replacing - saw some neet stuff from Shoup Mfg. to improve those pins. I plan on taking my time and going over as much as I can think of. As I read the manuel more, I see potential areas to be worn out and need replacing. I think this might get a little more expensive than I planned. However, I want to do it right. I don't plant that many acres and I believe that if I set this planter up right, it will last me many more years. Don't know what shape the finger pick up units are in, I'm gonna go start checking some of them tonight. Any suggestions on where a new guy like myself would find lots of good info? Saw some of the publications on this site and looked real good. Just don't know where to start. Thanks for any help. Happy Holidays. Sat, 30 Dec 2006 21:56:55 -0600 29483 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29471 Hi Gene, Sounds like a good plan. I know where there is a really nice 7200 with all the right attachments for $15,000. It is better than new. It is a 6 row and that is what I use. I used an F2 for that acreage but sold it and trade with a neighbor now. He can cut more in one hour than nearly did in a day. Email me if you need help. Ed Winkle edwinkle@verizon.net Tue, 26 Dec 2006 20:45:28 -0600 29471 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29470 I will be no tilling 100 acres of corn/soybeans for the 1st time in 2007. My land has been in alfalfa for the past 7 years and is slightly rolling sandy loam in S.W. Mich. I work full time off the farm and have allocated $50,000.00 for used machinery. My tractors are o.k. What would you recommend for other machinery? I am 3 miles from a John Deere dealer. I am leaning toward 6 row John Deere. Should I go with a 7000 NT? Dry or liquid? Is a 6620 combine a good choice ? I have an old grain truck, but should I get a newer truck or grain carts? Should I think about on farm grain storage? Do I need anything else? Any help would certainly be appreciated . Thu, 14 Dec 2006 10:52:59 -0600 29470 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29468 12-13-06 Cameron Mills You might look to make a strip in between the old corn rows and then plant on the strips the next spring. That way you don't need a lot of tillage in front of the row unit on the planter. You could also put on your nitrogen or potash and phosphate at the same time. The planter would only need a no-till coulter and residue wheels on the row unit. Wed, 13 Dec 2006 16:22:23 -0600 29468 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29467 We farm poorly drianed, moderately drained and well drained silt loam soils in Ohio. Take a look at the Martin system, it is the best one I have found to work with in all situations. A standard no-till planter will work but you have to wait too long for the soil to dry enough to plant or run a harrow ahead of the planter which is a wasted trip for me. http://www.martinandcompany.com The CIH 1200 series planter works pretty well also. You asked, and there is my opinion. Ed Winkle HyMark Consulting LLC Martinsville, Ohio Sat, 09 Dec 2006 14:22:48 -0600 29467 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29466 What setup would work best for no-till corn on corn in sandy loam and poorly drained loam soils? I sidedress with a Hinker cultivator and have successfully planted on the ridge with a 3 coulter rawson system bucause there was enough hardware to knock the old stalks/roots out of the way. I do like the controlled traffic planting on ridges. However, I am replacing the planter without the rawson coulters. What would be a good alternative? Fri, 08 Dec 2006 08:11:44 -0600 29466 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29464 In Ohio, I pulled a 10 shank pull type chisel plow with straight points as deep as I could pull it with a 100 hp tractor. You need at least 10 hp per shank. We could break the disk layer but it was difficult to be able to break our plow pan at 7-8 inches. That was 35 years ago. Dad rented a White 5100 notill planter in 1976 and the rest is history as they say. I use a 5100 modified notill planter yet today. Ed Winkle Sun, 19 Nov 2006 11:27:57 -0600 29464 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29463 Hi John Here in the UK we gave up using chisel ploughs years ago, and now we use an Aussie invention called the "Shakerator" which take out the compaction without destroying the soils natural structure. My neighbour pulls a 10 foot 7 leg machine with a 7710 JD and we pull a similar machine with a JD 6900. We then do a surface cultivation with a shallow disc implement (2-3") It sounds complicated but we are then maintaining a more natural profile with the OM in the top layers. Sun, 12 Nov 2006 07:41:23 -0600 29463 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29462 Depends on how deep you want to rip,you don't have the freezing thawing effect of the U.S. Reckon you need 20 to 30 h.p. per tyne. Sat, 11 Nov 2006 16:44:01 -0600 29462 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29461 John my ground red loamy with a bit of gravel I plan to use fairly norrow points to try and brake thepan from years of shallow disking. Also have never used a moulboard Sat, 11 Nov 2006 04:33:05 -0600 29461 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29460 Well it depends on the type of shovel you use and how deep you want to go and how fast you pull the chisel, but my wild guess would be about 1.25 times the width of a moldboard plow or plough that you current pull with this tractor. Sat, 11 Nov 2006 00:02:01 -0600 29460 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29459 GdayI,m new to to this forum I live in south eastern victoria Australia growing lucerne /alfalfa for dairyfarmers I would be interested in suggestions on the size of chisel plough my 7700 jd will pull comfortably thanks John Smyth Fri, 10 Nov 2006 15:08:28 -0600 29459 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29436 Before I by a drill I would read the basic book with over 30 years of No Till research, especialy what the seed needs and what the effect of differant concepts of openers are und which conditions on the effect of crop establishment. The updated edition of this book should be availagle in November. Old title was: No Tillage Seeding by Baker, Saxton and Ritchie. Worth the read. Out of this research a drill was the consequence. have a look at www.cross-slot.com. Might be a option for you as well. York Berlin, Germany Tue, 24 Oct 2006 21:40:25 -0500 29436 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29435 That looks like it, have the old part number around here somewhere but it started in the numbers 10 I am pretty sure. I have seen two types. They are called Reduced Inside Diameter tires now technically because of patent rights etc. One is softer, goes on easier, costs less and has the same dimple but won't wear as long. The other is harder, goes on harder, costs more, has the same dimple but will wear longer. I can't tell you which is which but don't be afraid to ask when purchasing. I think you will soon learn who is telling the truth. Ed Sat, 09 Sep 2006 07:54:30 -0500 29435 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29452 I agree that a John Deere no-till drill would be your best option. Earlier models were the 750 and 1560. But JD's are all pull type drills and I think they may have made a 10' model, others are wider. A Great Plains no-till drill would work too. I think a pull type drill would be preferable to a 3 pt mounted unit. A no-till drill needs a lot of weight to push the openers into the ground and you are somewhat limited with 3 pt drill. Also depth control is not as good and you can not turn very short with the drill in the ground. Also, if you want to plant small seeded crops like clover you are going to need a small seed attachment/box on the drill. Tue, 05 Sep 2006 01:51:51 -0500 29452 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29451 New model is 1590,not sure of superseeded models. Tue, 05 Sep 2006 01:33:43 -0500 29451 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29450 What model J.D. is single disc. Mon, 04 Sep 2006 12:18:38 -0500 29450 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29449 In response to Tye v Atchison (Spelling). Atchison has 1" coil tynes with opening coulters and their distribution system consists of two rollers which rats love. In my experience I would buy a single disc J.D. as they will go through anything. Mon, 04 Sep 2006 06:39:09 -0500 29449 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29448 Thanks, I can buy the tye for 4k or less. We have never used one of these. Need something relatively small. Missed out on a Sunflower that was 10 feet. Do you recommend waiting for a different model, rather than buying the tye? If so, what model. Thanks again. Charles Sun, 03 Sep 2006 17:29:51 -0500 29448 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29447 I believe that the Atchison drill is made in New Zealand for pasture renovartion. And I think it has fixed shank or hoe type openers. This drill is apt to have problems if you seed into very much long residue. The Tye drill has disc openers and probably a leading coulter to open the seed slot and cut residue. The Tye drill is made in Texas by a company that is apart of the AGCO farm equipment group. The Tye is not a great drill, but I would sure favor it over the Atchison for both dealer support and residue handling. Sun, 03 Sep 2006 15:48:15 -0500 29447 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29446 I am going to purchase a small drill to use at our hunting club in AL (2000 acres, 100 in foodplots). Up to this point, we have plowed and planted every year. There is a used Tye and Atchison 3 point hitch 6' drills available in this area. The Tye is about 15 yrs old, in good condition. It has the additional small seed box. The Atchison is about 10 yrs old and has been used very little. I can buy it for about 1000 bucks less. We have never used one of these drills. We plant wheat, oats and clover primarily. We will plant corn and soybeans in the spring. Any help or suggestions will be appreciated. Thanks Charles Sun, 03 Sep 2006 15:01:17 -0500 29446 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29442 Does anyone know of anyone or company that builds liquid fer. applicators that mount on a JD 750 drill? Or similar drill. I bought an applicator in spring of 2006. Everything worked fine except the residue (mainly corn stalks) would bend the fert. tubes out of proper location, which was to drop the fert. behind the seed firming wheel and in front of the closing wheel. Which I thought was an ideal location. The way it turns out I am just top dressing my fertilizer. Any information or advise would be greatly appreciated. I had no luck with 'Online Supplier Guide'. Fri, 01 Sep 2006 16:51:02 -0500 29442 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29438 Can a 7200 6 row conservation planter be converted to a wide row instead of a narrow row? Dose it take a lot of work to do it? Fri, 11 Aug 2006 10:27:57 -0500 29438 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29434 Is this "famous" IH gauge wheel that everydoby are talking? It is not well know here in Finland. http://www.caseih.com/parts/parts.aspx?&navid=123&RL=ENNA&typeid=23&partid=213 I'm planning to by 13,5 foot Krause Air No-till drill here in Finland (?) and closing wheel that is good for cold and damped soil is what I'm looking. Tue, 08 Aug 2006 14:27:58 -0500 29434 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29424 I have never seen a used set I would put on a planter Mike, I would buy new. You might get lucky and find a set where something else went bad wrong on a 5100 but most of them here are being used or valuable enough to trade in or sell outright. I have looked high and low for the meter that holds the seed plate as a new one is about $200 and I have not found one. Good Luck! Ed Winkle Thu, 29 Jun 2006 19:53:12 -0500 29424 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29432 Here is Tye's link. If you call or email dealers who read email you might be able to find one. I have never seen one junked out and if it were it would probably need the parts you need: http://www.tye.agcocorp.com/default.cfm?pid=1.7.10 Thu, 29 Jun 2006 19:49:18 -0500 29432 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29431 I am in need of finding out the part # and finding 8 No-Till Coulter rods/assemblies to fit on a Tye Pasture Pleaser Model 104-3420 or 4420. If I could get these used it would be great as I can't afford a whole ton on them. Anyway, if anyone can please help me out, please let me know. Thanks, Warren Wed, 28 Jun 2006 18:12:20 -0500 29431 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29428 I was wondering if anyone has any experience using a valmar or gandy box to meter dry fertilizer on a 15' deere 750 drill. My drill currently has no fertilizer attachment, and I would like to incorporate a dry fertilizer system on it. Or maybe I should be using liquid instead? I plant soybeans wheat and canola with the drill. Any Ideas would be helpful Sat, 13 May 2006 22:27:39 -0500 29428 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29426 I changed a couple rows on my 5100 to the R.I.D. IH tires to try them. When the guage wheels raise to walk over clods, etc., the inside of the tires hit my OEM rotary scrapers. My soils are very sticky. What should I do? Thanks. Tue, 09 May 2006 12:56:19 -0500 29426 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29423 I am looking for a set of closing wheels for my 5100 8 row. I currently have the stock single rubber wheel. I like the looks of the Martin spaders that mount on to the existing bracket. Does anyone have a used set for sale, or know a good salvage yard that might have what I need ? Sat, 06 May 2006 19:29:59 -0500 29423 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29421 I have bought a JD Tru-Vee drill which has the planter row units set on 15 inch . It has bubble coulters on the row units they are 15 inch in dia. yet. I will be useing it to no till beans into corn stalks. Should i replace the bubble coulters with a wave coulter or run awhile . Is there a problem with side wall compaction in the seed furrow with the bubble coulters? Tue, 28 Mar 2006 21:45:32 -0600 29421 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29419 i think martin reccomends lightly tilling with the row cleaners. experiment with it and see what works best. i amm with ed though. i try to not move any dirt. Mon, 27 Mar 2006 19:47:27 -0600 29419 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29418 I don't remember reading that on my instructions but maybe it was there. I just move residue and don't try to move the soil. Ed Wed, 22 Mar 2006 19:01:52 -0600 29418 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29403 They break frequently. Some people have gone to thicker-walled tubing to add strength. Another useful trick is to install a second 'bearing' (hanger) in the center of the front rockshaft, which prevents the bolt stretching/breakage that often causes a single hanger to let the rockshaft move too much and fatigue. The 750s with separate hydraulic cylinders for each rank have less trouble, but the rockshafts still fatigue eventually. Thick-wall tubing seems to be the best answer for long-term. Short-term, patching the rockshaft can be quite successful. Tue, 21 Mar 2006 12:56:12 -0600 29403 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29402 The first drill that I purchased had a broken shaft. What I have noticed is that the front gang bounces when it is in the locked up position. I think that the torque of the bouncing causes it. What I do is remove the front gang when drilling on 15" centers. Tue, 21 Mar 2006 10:32:44 -0600 29402 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29417 I'm putting the Martin c-125s on my planter. I've had sources tell me just move the residue. Martin says run them within a 1/2 inch of seed depth. Which is best? Wed, 15 Mar 2006 20:07:26 -0600 29417 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29415 We are now putting pop-up in furrow and would like to place 2X2 beside the row. Can we do this using a Black Machine with Kinze units with no-till coulters? Sat, 11 Mar 2006 15:26:57 -0600 29415 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29413 My advise would be to take a very close hard look at the John Deere single disc, no-til fertilizer coulter. Mon, 27 Feb 2006 17:29:18 -0600 29413 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29412 I need to replace my double disk fertilizer openers on a JD 7200 planter. Was considering using Yetter 2995 series. Have read several comments saying don't use Yetter fertilizer coulters. Any comments suggestions or alternative recommendations appreciated. Thanks Chris Mon, 27 Feb 2006 03:42:59 -0600 29412 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29191 Has anyone looked at the new Precision Planting disk? The info they present is compelling, but I don't know what to believe. This is our first year with a vac planter- how much vac is too much w/o damaging equipment? I like the idea of not worring about constantly fiddling with vac settings... Fri, 24 Feb 2006 08:56:45 -0600 29191 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29410 We are looking to try some cover crops this fall. We recently traded off our JD 750 drill for a 1790 planter and are needing a replacement to seed waterways anyway. I would like the option of notill patching in bare spots in waterways and am thinking we would need a notil drill for cover crops, too. SO, what is the best drill to accomplish this? Looking used $5000 area. Prefer green equipment, but the old 8300 is too light I am told. Any ideas would be much appreciated! Fri, 24 Feb 2006 08:53:16 -0600 29410 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29408 I am looking for 6 used JD or Ausherman single disk openers for dry fertilizer. jactfrank@frontiernet.net Tue, 07 Feb 2006 09:56:30 -0600 29408 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29240 NuTill is a trademarked system by AgSpectrum out of DeWitt Iowa. They have a complete system which has generated a shift to notill. Contact them or any local reps for more information. Many of us are using the planter setup with variations of the fertility and other recommendations. Grozyme is an additive they use to enhance the soil microbe reactions. Many farmers are very pleased with their results. The Martin system they use and helped develop uses no notill coulter, just the double disk openers to do the tillage. The squeeze pumps are for GPM, using more 28 beside the row. Ed Winkle Sat, 04 Feb 2006 08:20:31 -0600 29240 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29239 Ed, I'm new to this. What is nu-till vs. no-till,CDS squeeze pump vs. John Deere squeeze pump and what is Grozyme? Fri, 03 Feb 2006 11:34:19 -0600 29239 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29238 I am ready to make the switch. In 2005 I went to Martin spiked closing wheels and drag chains with excellent results for corn. I switched back to regular press wheels for soybeans because our ground was getting dry and I was concerned about soil-seed contact. Thu, 02 Feb 2006 21:07:40 -0600 29238 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29406 I cannot help you on the drill setup but I can give you the inoculation results from Ohio State for last year and previous years: http://agcrops.osu.edu/soybean/ Good luck whatever you do! Ed Winkle Sun, 29 Jan 2006 12:55:44 -0600 29406 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29405 I am looking for a way to plant or drill beans in 15" spacing into standing corn stalks and still be able to stay in the old tractor tracks from the year before. I plant corn with a six 30" planter. I have a 15' Great Plains drill set up at 7.5" that I drill beans with now. I am moving the units to plant 15" beans and still drive in the tracks. I was wondering if anybody has done this, or does anybody think this would work? I'm wondering about the stand and how heavy I should plant? Also does anybody have good results inoculating beans, if so want do you recommend? Sat, 28 Jan 2006 20:05:35 -0600 29405 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29190 I have used the SI kit for 4 years. Before I purchased this I was ready to trade for a finger pickup. I traded from a 7200Vac to a 1790Vac. I tried the JD disk with the new planter and had to switch back to the SI disk. If you take the time to dial in the double elminators I can get the row to row variation down under 500 seeds per acre. I never have to change my vac presure regardless of seed treatment or size. It is set a 11 psi and has not changed. I am sold. Dallas Sun, 22 Jan 2006 12:58:06 -0600 29190 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29401 I've been looking for 2, 15 ft JD no-till drills on a hitch. I've locate a set of 750's with a JD hitch. On both drills the front rock shaft has been welded. On both drills the break is on the right hand side of the drill just inside of the linkage that connects the front and back ranks. I didn't think it would be possible to break the big square tubing that the openers clamp to, but it has happened. Has anyone heard of this, or know what could have caused the tubing to crack or break? Thu, 12 Jan 2006 23:13:57 -0600 29401 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29396 I strongly disagree w/ Ed on this. The RID/CIH gauge tire seriously impairs performance of the JD 50 / 60 / 90-series opener in many soil conditions. It allows sidewall lifting or tearing before the seeds are placed, causing some of the seeds to not encounter the firming wheel because they're in a fissure in the sidewall. Wed, 11 Jan 2006 08:50:05 -0600 29396 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29395 Great way to improve a John Deere no-till drill, also! We have no problems stomping them onto the other color rims. We used to put the rims in the freezer and let the tires swell in warm sunshine. Ed Winkle www.erinet.com/hymark Tue, 03 Jan 2006 19:57:13 -0600 29395 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29398 Can anyone recommend a cultivator that will work to cultivate sunflowers no-tilled into corn stubble from 150-200bpa corn? Need to find some way to control ragweed in the sunflower crop. Thu, 29 Dec 2005 19:34:04 -0600 29398 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29394 I just did it a couple weeks ago. Take the 2 halves apart-put some dishsoap on the rubber-buy 5 or 6 long bolts (4"+) or some all thread-pull the two together with the nuts on each side-easy as pie. Don't have to modify a thing. Wed, 28 Dec 2005 08:05:50 -0600 29394 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29393 Ed and Matt, Thank you for your input. Your knowledege at these topics is far greater than mine. I'll consider not using any coulters. Merry Christmas to everybody. Dave Sun, 25 Dec 2005 17:37:06 -0600 29393 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29392 A word of warning about the CIH/RID gauge tires -- they can cause some seed placement problems in some conditions, since the sidewall blows apart and doesn't guide the seed to the bottom of the furrow. Also, if using a Keeton or other in-furrow device for seed firming, it is imperative that all the seeds are aligned to the original furrow. For more on this topic, see http://www.exapta.com/knowledge/guide_seeding.html I agree that coulters generally cause more problems than they solve. Hope this helps. Cheers. Sun, 25 Dec 2005 10:26:48 -0600 29392 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29391 If there is a difference, someone let us know! I am sure this not one. I spoke about this at the Pa Corn Growers a few years ago and several have switched to the system without a coulter with excellent results. Guy Wagner, the President then of Pa Corn Growers was one of the first. Doug Bowersox said he had too many rocks to switch but finallydid and wondered why he didn't when I first mentioned it. You just gotta find out what works for you! Merry Christmas, Best Wishes, and Happy Holidays! Ed Winkle HyMark Consulting Sat, 24 Dec 2005 13:31:28 -0600 29391 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29390 So, the Case IH is just the rubber replacement tire and fits on the JD wheel. I did not know that. Thank you. I agree "the system" is the way to go. BUT, I live here in PA. Most ALL planters use frame mounted notill coulters ahead of the unit. (unit mounted coulters are frowned on) Part of this might be because some are trying to push rocks out of the way with the frame mounted coulter or because our soils might be harder due to 1. heavy traffic, ecpecially from manure tanks 2. many farmers are just switchin to notill and their soils haven't yet softened up yet 3. double cropping corn behind small grain or old hay fields. My biggest question that I am trying to answer as I'm getting ready to buy a planter is : what, if any, notill coulter do I need? Dave Sat, 24 Dec 2005 11:30:47 -0600 29390 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29389 I thought they were the same thing. I will never forget Paul Reed stomping the CIH gauge wheel tires onto Deere rims in the kitchen of the Hotel in St. Louis with his street shoes on no less! It is easy to do and the best notill advice I can give to any notill farmer. One of the best darn devices ever invented but don't forget to use the whole system! Ed Winkle www.erinet.com/hymark Fri, 23 Dec 2005 21:55:53 -0600 29389 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29388 1st Question: How hard is it to put IH guage wheels on a JD 7000 or 7200? Do you have to modify much? 2nd Question: Would the Martin RID (reduced inside diameter) guage wheel replacement work as good? Thanks! Dave Fri, 23 Dec 2005 14:01:27 -0600 29388 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29386 For anyone strugging with this: I tried jumping on them-no good, putting in the press-bent a rim and couldn't get straight, etc. I finally found a super easy way to to it. There are 7 holes in the rim for the little 1" bolts that connect the halves. Simple buy some 4" allthread or some long bolts-stick them throught both rims-put a little dishsoap on the rim-and tighten them down. Then when they halves meet remove the long ones and put the shorties in. Couldn't be easier. Takes about 20-30min per gauge wheel but it really worked slick. Tue, 06 Dec 2005 08:58:03 -0600 29386 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29384 has anyone tried the martin fert. attachments? Mon, 05 Dec 2005 20:06:30 -0600 29384 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29382 http://shopsmart.networkwcs.com/sloanex/cart.cgi?PRODUCT=109014&SPD=geY76272419lxww This one? I have found none better than the Case IH notill gauge wheel tire. They are easy to press on any rim, probably even easier on your JD than my White which is plenty big but it squeezes right on. Their patent explodes the compressed sidewall better than anything I have ever tried. If you do get some seed lifting, make sure you have the Keeton Seedfirmer and you might need the JS AgInnovations stainless steel seed tube holder. I wouldn't rebuild a planter without all of the above. Ed Winkle Tue, 29 Nov 2005 07:59:12 -0600 29382 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29381 Anyone tried the Offset Gauge wheel for John Deere planters from Sloans Express? Looks to be the same a CashIH wheel-but hopefully mounts to Deere a little easier. Any feedback would be appreciated. Mon, 28 Nov 2005 16:06:43 -0600 29381 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29371 My dealer finally sent my spring repair bill and you are about right on your prices! Won't be long until it is time to do this again! Set your planter up right! Ed Winkle Sat, 05 Nov 2005 08:34:15 -0600 29371 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29370 You will most likely need to replace the disk openers and scrapers, seed tubes, all drive chains, and possibly the closing wheels. Plan on rebuilding the drive clutch, too. With these items and those on your list, plan on spending $800-1000 / row besides the cost of the planter. Tue, 11 Oct 2005 11:18:29 -0500 29370 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29369 You are right on target. I am sure your planter would be a good one for you. Given that, I can't find a better N fert opener than the older JD single disk, it has less disruption, you can modify it easily. Don't forget to add your sulfur with your side by side N at planting. The IH gauge wheel tires make any planter shine in no-till when you should be planting in colder, damper soils, I would not plant without it. I prefer the Martin face mount row cleaner to every other, you can get off and adjust to your conditions, I have found none better for me. The more the soil improves as residue builds on the top the better it works. I would not forget the drag chains. They pull a cup of soil per foot of row over the seed trench, leaving it crumbly and even density for maximum vigor. Most of us use no down pressure springs or in a low tension postion as they oppose the system. They were designed for the cloddy tilled seedbeds that planter was engineered for and not the moist, damp, cool, loose seedbed we wish to plant in. Plant early and finish early, it will make you money. Ed Winkle Fri, 07 Oct 2005 13:27:47 -0500 29369 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29368 I am a 2nd year farmer, 1st post here. I have had my ground custom planted 1st two years. Have been no-till from the start. Now I need to get my own planter. I only have 250 acres so I am pretty set on a 6-30 JD 7000 (want to keep it simple so no vacuum) and 7000's are relatively cheap and easy to find. Corn/Soy rotation on med soils-some HEL-considering trying some continuous corn experiments. If I can find a decent one set up for no-till I will go that route-but I am pretty particular so I am thinking I may be better off buying a worn out one and completely rebuilding this winter. I don't have a ton of money (thus the 6 row instead of 12) I know it will cost a fair amount but I plan to keep it for several years and want to get it right-but don't want to waste money either. Here are my thoughts if rebuild: Yetter Titan Row Cleaner Keaton Firmers Spike Closing Wheels & Chains Precision Corn Meters Deere Bean Meters Replancing with Heavy Duty Down Pressure Springs IH Gauge Wheels Anything I am missing or off base with? Any input would be much appreciated. Paul Butler Tue, 04 Oct 2005 16:38:47 -0500 29368 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29365 I have a 2003 SDX 30 with about 12000 acres. This fall I've started breaking spindles on the coulter opener. Has anyone had this experience. I'm no-tilling wheat into soybean stubble. Sat, 01 Oct 2005 19:43:39 -0500 29365 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29363 Contact Rob Heyen in Nebraska, he is the only person I know using one and he seems to be pleased with it. Email me if you need contact information. Ed Winkle www.erinet.com/hymark Sat, 01 Oct 2005 18:44:44 -0500 29363 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29362 Is there anyone out there that has any experience with the pro planter. I am looking at one just looking for some imput. Mon, 19 Sep 2005 21:01:06 -0500 29362 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29237 Did you make the switch? I would recommend you do if you did not. Email me if you need help. Ed Winkle HyMark Consulting LLC 3308 Martinsville Road Martinsville, Ohio 45146 ewinkle@erinet.com Tue, 13 Sep 2005 09:25:48 -0500 29237 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29300 I would recommend the Martin setup on that planter if you desire to increase yields and spread your labor by planting earlier. We have increased our planting dates in Ohio by one month which has increased our yields, improved our marketing situation and given us more time in the fall for all the things you can do to improve your farm and fields. I have a link to this system on my page at www.erinet.com/hymark/nutill.html Ed Winkle Tue, 13 Sep 2005 09:16:42 -0500 29300 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29353 K-Hart in Canada makes a heavy duty aftermarket off-set double disk opener that you might consider. No leading coulter and off-set for better cutting and penetration. And heavyduty blades and bearing. Row cleaners are also available, but in 7.5 " rows I have my doubts about how well they will work. http://www.khartindustries.com/opener.html Fri, 26 Aug 2005 02:07:32 -0500 29353 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29352 James, As a rule I plant at 8 m.p.h. 12 or 13 gear in T.G.285 Regards, Greg. Thu, 18 Aug 2005 05:36:11 -0500 29352 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29351 Greg, How fast do you plant wheat with your 1890? thanks, Jim Wed, 17 Aug 2005 23:49:31 -0500 29351 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29360 Just purchased a JD 1890 with a 1910 cart. The previous owners only had one set of meter rolls, the "high rate", which they used for fertilizer and soybeans. Will this work for me planting wheat this fall, or should I go to the regular/medium, which I believe is 20#-130# per acre? thanks, Jim Sat, 06 Aug 2005 19:21:42 -0500 29360 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29358 K-Hart Industries in Canada has a "residue manger" for JD no-till drills. All I know about it is what you see on their web page. I am sure it was designed to work in cereal stubble. Corn stalks might be another story. Here is their web site address. http://www.khartindustries.com/residue.html Mon, 01 Aug 2005 02:23:58 -0500 29358 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29357 I have been no-till for over eight years and am currentlly using a JD1860 air seeder. Does anyone know if there are some kind of row cleaner for them, when i am running on 15 inch centers. Sun, 31 Jul 2005 09:14:24 -0500 29357 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29355 I help coordinate a Farmer-to-Farmer Program in Belarus and am searching for a no-till farming specialist to send overseas for approximately 21 days. This individual will be asked to assist a group of farmers transition into no-till farming. We believe through supporting their efforts, Kholodon-Agro Farm will be able to better utilize no-till methods and will become a model for others. Do you or do you know others who have practical experience in no-till farming and are interested in serving as a resource to farmers overseas? The entire trip is paid for as part of the Farm Bill and would be at no cost of the specialist. We are looking to send one qualified person by September 30th, 2005. Any assistance you can provide in locating a specialist for this assignment would improve the lives of farmers in Belarus while enriching the life of the specialist with a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to travel abroad professionally. I would be happy to send you or your colleagues more information if interested. Again, I thank you for your time and consideration. Best, Melanie Proshchenko Program Coordinator Farmer-to-Farmer Program CNFA, Inc. 1828 L Street NW, Suite 710 Washington, DC 20036 202.296-3920 phone | 202.296-3948 fax mproshchenko@cnfa.org | www.cnfa.org Mon, 11 Jul 2005 16:10:33 -0500 29355 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29350 Re. openers-Matt Cupps. I have been using an 1890 J.D. direct drilling for some 3 seasons and have seeded about 8000 acres with no major problems. If you avoid drilling heavy land when wet you will have no problems if you go slow over big stones. Sat, 18 Jun 2005 07:49:48 -0500 29350 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29349 my drills opener units are worn out, i they are currently a simple coulter/v opener/closing wheel design on 7.5 centers but the couters are worn down, im replaceing opener bearing on a regular basis plus there is a lot of distance between the coulter and opener on the current unit and i seem to always be bending units back into line. I have decided to relace the units. I am considering single disc opener, i need something that will withstand abuse of rocky conditions and cut praire roots and stubble. I am really looking for something that is a complete unit that is compact enough that i can actually place seed in the no till trench instead of of the opener running 1/2 inch beside the counter the first time i hit a rock. Thats why i am considering single disc opener. Ive been noticeing some mfg companys advertising them in magazines lately but cant seem to find any of the adds when i actually want to look at them I would appreciate any feed back on single disc openers vs coulter set ups and am interesed in any knowelge of complete units avalable on the market. Thank you Thu, 16 Jun 2005 23:13:48 -0500 29349 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29347 Truax has no-till drills as small as 4 feet wide and Great Plains has a mounted 6 foot and pull type 6 and 7' notill drills. I think Sunflower has a small mounted drill too. www.truax.com www.greatplainsmfg.com Thu, 19 May 2005 00:39:58 -0500 29347 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29346 Is there a good small acerage no till drill for interseeding grasses and renovating pastures? I work for a soil and water conservation district In a heavy small farm,mostly horse, area and lots of requests for drilling but our 10 foot haybuster drill is too big for most of these users? Mon, 09 May 2005 14:19:15 -0500 29346 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29335 Just found your query. My UFT drill is a 91 model. Main thing wrong is wheels are behind the openers and so some times beans dont quite get in the ground when crossing a waterway. I pull a chain drag behind that helps a lot with final covering. One other thing is adding or removing washers is kind of a slow way for depth control. I mostly get by using the hydraulic lift. It is a heavy unit if the heavy model. Rocks don't bother anything. On parts bearings are pretty standard from any bearing store. Their is a dealer in WI that seems to have any other minor part I have needed. Sat, 16 Apr 2005 20:38:01 -0500 29335 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29337 I have just bought a graham-hoeme no-till drill and I am trying to find any information about it that I can get, such as where I can get parts and manuals for it. Any help would be appreciated Fri, 08 Apr 2005 22:17:54 -0500 29337 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29334 Arts-Way in Iowa now makes UFT drills and flail choppers, so parts should be available. Don't know anything else about the drill. http://www.artsway-mfg.com/UFT.htm Sat, 02 Apr 2005 01:30:23 -0600 29334 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29333 Does someone know something about UFT No-Till Drills from around 1998? Are they reliable? Easy to get parts? Sat, 26 Mar 2005 14:30:52 -0600 29333 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29331 From my experience the disadvantages of the rear knife is residue catching on the blade. It needs to be adjusted to the back of the blade quite often but it does place the fert below surface and eliminates misting of fert on the planter which injectors might do. I am not too familiar with Ausherman setup tho. Good luck. Fri, 18 Mar 2005 08:32:20 -0600 29331 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29330 I was wondering if anybody had any experience with changing ther fertilizer coulters from injectors to knives. I have a 12 row kinze with auscherman coulters. Any help would be great! Thu, 17 Mar 2005 21:15:26 -0600 29330 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29326 Kevin, my opinion based on experience (you know there are enough opinions for all of us to have our own). I don't have tread design info with me tonight but for years until I retired in 2003, I ran 20.8x38 "field/road" inner tires paired with 30.5x32 "field/road" combine tire duals on my JD 4840. I used large cleated front tires "reversed" so they would roll rather than slide in wet spots. Conventional tri-rib or 5-rib tires tend to push debris & slide in wet areas. I even used this set-up when I was conventional farming to prevent compaction and tracks. Winter wheat in eastern NC will show wheel tracks in a cold wet spring by turning yellow, etc. We never saw tracks show up that way in my wheat with the large tire setup. I actually have my JD4840 for sale at this time and have some good photos that I will be glad to e-mail to you so you can see what I am talking about. My e-mail is jcnc5@hotmail.com. It will be Friday nite before I can respond however. Good luck to you! Jerry Farmers Feed The World....Thank A Farmer Today! Wed, 02 Mar 2005 21:30:03 -0600 29326 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29328 Would anyone know who manufactures the ALL-TERRAIN BANDERS? I am trying to find out who manufactures them. They have bristles around the bander that extend down to protect insecticide application from wind. Mon, 28 Feb 2005 12:14:29 -0600 29328 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29261 you might check out the Acra-plant retro fit disc kit and/or trash whippers, or zone managers. A new website shows these options. www.ken-leedistributing.com Thu, 24 Feb 2005 14:56:51 -0600 29261 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29299 Ryan, yes a white 8100 is a good planter for no-till, but you will need to add the Acra-Plant retrofit kit, this is the best way to convert a planter over, I found a place on-line. Go to www.ken-leedistributing.com Thu, 24 Feb 2005 14:35:51 -0600 29299 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29325 If you had to buy new rear dual tires for a tractor, what would be the best tires for no-till? We don't want to tear the ground up, which is what happens with the tires which came with the tractor. Brand, tread style, tread depth, ect. Mon, 21 Feb 2005 13:33:28 -0600 29325 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29220 I would recomend Acra-Plant Notched opener discs to cut through the stalks and keep your seeds in the ground. We have runthem on our Kinze with the Yetter coulter / row cleaners and they make a big difference. Here is a site to get information: http://www.ken-leedistributing.com Wed, 26 Jan 2005 09:51:33 -0600 29220 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29277 Have you looked at Acra-Plant V-slice inserts instead? They mount in front of the seed tube and keep the dirt from falling in before the seed to maintain depth. The inserts extend slightly below the disc openers and hold the side walls open unitil the seed falls which traps the seed in firm moist soil. We have used them on JD and Kinze planters for 20+ years and love them. Check this site for information: http://www.ken-leedistributing.com Wed, 26 Jan 2005 09:30:07 -0600 29277 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29305 Do you have the Case IH gauge wheel tires installed? If not, you may not be lifting enough soil for the wheels to work. The spading wheels should lightly till beside and above the furrow without moving the seed and anyone can make it do that if you troubleshoot your planter. You need the whole system, no coulter if possible, Martin row cleaners, brand new double disk openers, Case IH gauge wheel tires, seed tube protectors, Keeton seed firmers, trimmed back if necessary, Martin spading or spiked closing wheels and the drag chains. I have experimented for 35 years and found nothing that works better than this configuration in no-till, minimum till, conservation till, ridge till or full tillage. Ed Winkle Mon, 17 Jan 2005 07:33:33 -0600 29305 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29187 I TRIED THE SI 40 CELL DISC. I WOULD NOT USE THEM AGAIN, ON LARGE SIZED SEED (1500 TO 1300) SEEDS / LB. THE VACUM MOTORS HAD TO BE RUN WIDE OPEN TO GET ENOUGH VAC. TO WORK RIGHT. WE HAD TWO VAC MOTOR SEALS BLOW OUT, THE FIRST IN 12 YEARS OF RUNNING JD VAC. THE AIR HOLE IN THE DISC IS WAY TO BIG. ALSO DID NOT SEE ANY BETTER SPACING OR ROW TO ROW POPULATIONS. IF ANYONE WOULD LIKE TO BUY A SET OF 16 SI UNITS USED ONE SEASON I WOULD SELL THEM. Thu, 13 Jan 2005 18:50:50 -0600 29187 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29284 Andy, Email me and I'll send you pics of my row unit mounted twin opener fert. application system. It places the fert. 3" from the seed trench-on both sides of the seed trench and about 2-2.5" deep. jeff Harmseed@prairieinet.net Sun, 09 Jan 2005 20:57:36 -0600 29284 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29188 I have only used the JD 40 cell plate one year, but I really liked it. After adjusting the singulator, I could get all the rows much clolser together on the pop. moniter than before. Adjusting the vac. would actually show the population go up or down. When all the rows stayed real close, I figuerd I had hit the right vac. level. Before this I could see row variations of 2000 seeds between rows. Now I can get them to 600 or less variation between row readings. Only one years experience though. Sun, 09 Jan 2005 08:20:22 -0600 29188 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29189 I am also looking at alternative seed disks and posted the following on Agriculture.com machinery talk Dec 21. Not much response and believe just not making contact with the right people. My big thing is not change disks due to seed size, when trying to target certain varieties to certain soil types. Maybe this disk will not fit that need either. I am wondering about replacing the seed corn disks, in a J.D. 7200 planter, to the AccuVac 40 cell seed corn disk. Their ads talk of better seed spacing, with fewer doubles, and less variation of vacuum due to seed size. They also talk of being able to plant mixed sizes of corn. Before I spend $60 per row, I would like some input from users. I am not sure, is there just one disk for all sizes of seed corn? I saw the ad at WWW.sidist.com. I wonder if they might be available elsewhere for less money. Any input from experienced users would be appreciated. Thanks Russ Thu, 06 Jan 2005 12:09:13 -0600 29189 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29303 Tom, As Lucas mentioned make sure that you have your spike wheels installed properly. The wheel marked TW3813R goes on the LH side with the writing towards furrow when you are standing behind planter looking forward. Also,you mention having heavier clay soils. Have you tried moving your closing wheels closer together? Try 2 1/4" between spike teeth to see if a narrower setting works better in your soil types. David Sun, 26 Dec 2004 09:10:36 -0600 29303 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29285 Thanks again, this is all great info and confirms my ambition to put N down at planting time. Wish a Merry Christmas to everyone. Wed, 22 Dec 2004 15:56:46 -0600 29285 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29154 I have a 30ft great plains air drill for sale if anyone is interested. Email ggotti@cox.net Fri, 17 Dec 2004 22:28:33 -0600 29154 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29286 I have customers that have put from 25 gals to 40 gals of 28% on with the planter at a distance of 3.5 to 4 inches from the row for more than 15 years without damage. We try to get it into the ground around 4 inches You should check to see what amount will give you the best response on your farm . We find around 30 gals placed this way is a good boost along with the savings over broadcast. Thu, 16 Dec 2004 07:56:30 -0600 29286 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29287 Thanks for the advice. How did this same trip application work for you this past year? Anything you would do different? Mon, 13 Dec 2004 17:09:25 -0600 29287 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29157 I have driven a 9280 CIH 4 wheel drive with Outback's steering and it woked well. The I rode in a big JD (450 HP) 4 wheel dive with the Raven 100 series antenna and a Rogator sprayer with the Raven with the 200 level antenna. The Raven with the 200 level autosteer was very good. I liked eveything I drove. I already have an Outback S and am looking at an AX4 from www.accutrak.ca for my Cat 75C Challenger if it will work. Mon, 13 Dec 2004 08:13:10 -0600 29157 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29158 I have driven a 9280 CIH 4 wheel drive with Outback's steering and it woked well. The I rode in a big JD (450 HP) 4 wheel dive with the Raven 100 series antenna and a Rogator sprayer with the Raven with the 200 level antenna. The Raven with the 200 level autosteer was very good. I liked eveything I drove. I already have an Outback S and am looking at an AX4 from www.accutrak.ca for my Cat 75C Challenger if it will work. I liked the Raven because they have a foot pedal to reengage the autosteer which disengages when you touch the steering wheel. The Outback fights you for a couple seconds until you turn the wheel enough to override it and then automatically picks up on the line of travel. It never disengages like the Raven. Mon, 13 Dec 2004 08:13:09 -0600 29158 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29288 Ed Winkle said to go one inch to the side and one inch down per ten gal. of UAN you plan to put. S.L. Brady Sun, 12 Dec 2004 18:52:38 -0600 29288 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29289 I am 2nd year farmer and I am planning on doing the same this for the upcoming crop year. How far down and to the side did you end up placing the N. Im also planning on adding 10 lbs of Sulfer and a N-serve type product to reduce nitrogen loss. I've been told that split applications are better, but I feel the ease of one trip across the field to be much more beneficial given Im planting on the contour. Input from anyone would appreciated. Thu, 09 Dec 2004 17:21:35 -0600 29289 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29156 Has anyone had experience with aftermarket autosteering?? I plan on installing on a Spra Coup. Thanks Steve Atwill Tue, 07 Dec 2004 14:34:25 -0600 29156 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29160 Do any of you have any experience with a Krause 5400 25' no-till drill. Will they do a good job no-tilling soybeans into corn stubble and wheat into bean stubble? I currently have a 750 drill which works great but is plenty small. Was wondering how these machines worked on your farms and compared to a 750, if you have experience with both. Thank you. Sat, 04 Dec 2004 20:13:44 -0600 29160 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29162 Sun, 28 Nov 2004 20:51:43 -0600 29162 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29168 Not sure about a 1580 Deere drill, but here in the US the 1560 Deere no-till drill can be updated to the 90 series openers. I think the parts cost about $US 100 per openers. Sat, 27 Nov 2004 12:47:48 -0600 29168 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29165 I doubt that your 5100 will notill wheat or buckwheat. The openers won't cut the residue very well and it you put very much down-pressure on the openers the endwheels will come off the ground and the seed meters stop. The CIH mulch till drills (5400?) with the offset disc openers might work if the soil is soft and residue is light. Deere 455's and Great Plains drills also fall in this catigory. You might consider a coulter bar like those sold by Yetter or others to run in from of your drill for a compromise. But that is almost like a light dicsing in front of the drill. Think the best bet would be trading the 5100 for a used no-till drill for better seed placement. Sat, 27 Nov 2004 12:41:02 -0600 29165 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29164 Hi everyone: Simple question,. Can I use a IH 5100 drill (with press wheels) to no-till grain like wheat or buckwheat? I fairly small acreage and a rather limited budget. I have set up my JD7200 for soybeans and corn, but would like to try buckwheat this summer,and would like to stay strictly no till. If not would one of the other HI's work 5200, 5400 ect? Thu, 18 Nov 2004 17:12:59 -0600 29164 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29167 Is it possible to upgrade the openers on a JD 1580 to the same spec as the new openers found on the JD 1590? At what kind of cost roughly? Wed, 10 Nov 2004 15:12:41 -0600 29167 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29171 A group of us did something similar to what you are trying a few years back in Michigan. Michigan State University has a bulletin # e-2738. At the time, Jim LeCureux was the extension director, his # is 989-658-8213. Greg Renn was the field manager,his # is 989-269-9540. Basically, there were 2 40 acre plots comparing tillage practices for a number of crops. Timing of planting was an issue at first, I feel that it was handled in our situation very well. Hope this helps. Sat, 16 Oct 2004 08:01:18 -0500 29171 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29170 I am involved in a farmer group who cooperatively conduct experiments to improve their farming enterprises. we have planted a number of no till plot trials where the plots were all planted on the same day. This allows us to sow the plots manually into rows prepared with our farming machinery with the press wheels deactivated, after manual seeding soil seed contact is achieved by rolling the plots with a quad bike. Works really well but only allows comparisons to be made about different possible enterprise sown on the same day. Not how a real farm works. What we want to do is establish a trial that better reflects farm management decisions that is establish the plots in the trial over time at the most appropriate sowing time for each crop option and cultivar, this means the trial will have multiple sowing dates. Does anyone have experience with a simple design that allows one or two rows to established no till in a trial situation? Tue, 12 Oct 2004 01:58:39 -0500 29170 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29304 Make Sure you have the tapered edge of the wheel in torwards the row I made that mistake last year, I flipped them and it seem to help. We also have some clay that just pokes and leaves the slit not close right I just put the corn in a notch deeper and let it go. It's still better than smearing it in with cast iron wheels. Lucas criswell Sun, 01 Aug 2004 08:09:57 -0500 29304 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29302 I have martin closing wheels on my jhondeere 7000 planter havinig trouble getting them to close the slot up. they just seem to poke holes in the side wall in wet soils. I have the spaceing at 2.5 inches between the wheels. Tried all differnt down pressures. they work great if the ground is a little drier. I have more of a clay base soil. Fri, 16 Jul 2004 19:39:41 -0500 29302 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29296 Not all of the soil moved by the opener will fall back into the seed trench so the seed row will end up being lower then the surrounding area. Your soil condition will be a factor and in moist sticky situations some slabbing of soil can occur. This soil movement around the opener will limit your speed to around 4 or 5 mph ( 7 to 8 km) would be my guess. There are other hoe or shank type seed openers available in Canada and the US that will move more or less soil. For minimal disturbance it is better to go with a single shoot opener that is just going deep enough to put the seed in the ground and is not concerned with placing fertilizer and keeping seed and fertilizer separate. Go to the Flexicoil.com site and check the page with the Stealth openers and you will see a cross section of how the seed row will look. Horsch-Anderson are now using free floating disc behind their openers to move more soil back to the seed row, and you can find them on the web too. Thu, 08 Jul 2004 15:44:52 -0500 29296 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29298 Is a white 8100 planter a good planter to buy for no till planting Sun, 04 Jul 2004 17:46:30 -0500 29298 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29295 I would like information about the Flexi- Coil Stealth 3- inch Single and Double Shoot openers. How do they work in no-till drilling? What is the correct working speed? Do they throw a lot of soil sideways and how does the furrow close? Thank you for the information and we do practise farming here in Finland.!!!? Mon, 28 Jun 2004 09:37:17 -0500 29295 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29291 We have a Wisconsin No-Till Farmer reader who wants to buy a 24-row no-till planter with 20-inch rows for use next spring. Since the red, blue or green planters that are available don't offer exactly what he wants and needs, he's wondering who else could build one for him. Frank Lessiter, No-Till Farmer Tue, 01 Jun 2004 15:14:46 -0500 29291 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29265 Vernell : Í use Keeton´s and yes you have to remove the press when you install them. Carlos van der Straten Argentina Sat, 22 May 2004 13:44:15 -0500 29265 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29236 Nu-till the way to go! We run a Kinze had to put everything on to convince my dad that it was a great idea this year we put the drag chains on! Big difference,put them on! Breaks the lumps up when it is wet and knocks the air out when it is dry. Sun, 02 May 2004 17:53:36 -0500 29236 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29203 lucas, plows are getting popular around my area. i personally trust a wheel machine more. will a plow ride over a rock and ruin the fall of the tile line? i dont know. if a wheel hits a rock, at least you can see whats going on. sometimes they slide off to the side, if they hit dead centre youll need to pull the shoe and get the back hoe out, but you will know positively what the situation is down there. wheels are slow and youll have the extra expense of hiring the operator. plows, on the other hand take a bit of horse power to put the tile down where they belong. at least that is the case on our heavy soils. Fri, 30 Apr 2004 19:55:12 -0500 29203 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29235 john, ive not had experience with rawson, but did run the martin setup for first time this spring. floating row cleaners, spiked closers, drag chain, rid. tires. supremely satisfied on our cool dark nw. ohio soils. tons of loose dirt. great seed/soil contact. dont underestimate the need for drag chains. you can make some yourself or buy from martin. martin makes a fine product. Fri, 30 Apr 2004 19:44:06 -0500 29235 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29254 Iowa Farmer, Just Spread it on top and use a rotary harrow to incorperate or Turbo till. When you stick disk's or injecter's on your spreader you narrow up your spread pattern becauseyou aren't spreading 40' now your down to 10-12' so you have to make more passes and more compaction. I surface spread 3 Million gallons of dairy manure and I think it's a waste of time. I'm 100% no-till on1000 acres with all of that manure. With the manure on top it just makes a seal and holds moisture . It also feeds my most important livestock, THE WORMS. Tue, 27 Apr 2004 21:44:54 -0500 29254 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29283 Going to put 35 gal per acre beside thre row. How far to the side and how deep should it be placed? If that is to much to safely use , how much can i place beside the row. S.L. Brady Mon, 12 Apr 2004 12:59:52 -0500 29283 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29281 need to incoporate chemical while maintaing lots of residue(stripper harvested wheat), onextremely sandy soil for milo . does anyone know if a rolling stalk chopper would accomplish this? thanks. Sun, 11 Apr 2004 10:00:11 -0500 29281 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29260 This depends what the previous crop was. I am assuming these would be grown for commercial production for a canning factory. If you are no-tilling into corn stalks then you are going to create big problems for the processor. The ground has to be level because if there are any hills/valleys in the rows the pods will fall and stay there during harvest. The stripper heads on the bean pickers cannot pick pods up off the ground. Also, with corn stalks there will be a lot of foreign material (corn stalks and cobs) which will show up as tare and you will most likely be docked weight. However, I have seen and notilled snaps into soybean stubble and rye stubble that was killed. I agree that putting snaps on soybean stubble is not the best cultural practice. The majority of the ground that I work on is sand so penetration is pretty easy. Usually my growers just have a row cleaner. Some have a row cleaner/culter combo. If you are in heavier ground then I think 1,2, or 3 coulters with a row cleaner may be needed. farmerjon52 Tue, 30 Mar 2004 06:59:04 -0600 29260 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29196 I am looking to buy a 1590, 1560 or 750 drill in excellent condition. I am from Missouri but am will to travel. Mon, 29 Mar 2004 20:42:30 -0600 29196 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29276 I am have been using keeton seed firmers and am having trouble with mud build-up on them. I have the original style but have cut them down to mimic the low profile ones. Am still having trouble with some mud build-up. Any suggestions? Mon, 29 Mar 2004 12:22:55 -0600 29276 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29274 has any one tried 15" spike wheels on the martin floating row cleaner set up? they come standard with 13" wheels. i wondered if the larger wheels made a wider strip, or do they move more dirt than wanted. Sun, 28 Mar 2004 13:53:23 -0600 29274 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29257 phil, i used to run yetters on my 7000 planter. same problem. some of my trash wheels barely intersected, some were quite a distance apart. the accuracy of their manufacture did not impress me. i bought a set of martins for my white planter this winter. they look to be made with quality and accuracy. i havent run them yet so i cant say how they will perform. i got the floating type with gauge wheels so they shouldnt skip or furrow, theoretically. they can be set to intersect or not, or run offset from each other. the model i bought is made to accept my old coulter setup or not. i dont anticipate running the coulter but like the idea of having the option. the martins are not cheap. Sun, 21 Mar 2004 13:09:25 -0600 29257 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29264 Verdell, Yes you need to remove the press wheel from the arm and then tie the arm in the up position when installing Keetons on A JD 750 drill. David Thu, 18 Mar 2004 23:34:38 -0600 29264 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29267 I operate an older White 3407 air planter and would like to know if the Case lead-cutting disc blade openers will mount up and work, as I am going to replace all the discs. Thu, 18 Mar 2004 12:44:17 -0600 29267 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29263 do we remove the little press wheel on750 drill,when you install the keatons Mon, 15 Mar 2004 15:09:32 -0600 29263 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29202 g'morning lucas, we tried a wheel years ago, had too many big rock down deep and ended up with a back hoe and made better time, I don't know how a plow would work, but you may have the same problems Thu, 11 Mar 2004 07:22:43 -0600 29202 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29259 I'd like any comment on growing snap beans no-till. please include residue management, processor concerns, etc. Thu, 11 Mar 2004 07:19:37 -0600 29259 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29253 Iowa Famer, Have worked with several Houle spreaders that have toolbar on the back that carry Yetter Avenger single disc coulters. This unit works very well for application of 3000-5000gal..We are working on a closing system for this single disc set-up so you don't have to use the disc closer which move too much soil. We are using a closing device similar to what is being used on planter configurations.In fall applied manure it is hard to tell where you have been the following Spring.If you have interest,let me know and I can e-mail some pictures. David Tue, 09 Mar 2004 23:23:25 -0600 29253 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29256 On a JD 7200 planter, I have a Yetter residue coulter combo. I have had trouble with the unit making a furrow. If I pull it out, too much trash goes into the row. I'm thinking of taking the coulter off but the trash wheels have too big of a gap that would let too much trash go through. Can I rig something up to move the wheels so they would cover the gap or do they need to run at a certain pitch or angle? OR should I take these units off and put on the Martin 125 units? I also read an article of someone putting on cultivator sweeps ahead of the double-disc blades, would this work? Thanks for your help. Phil Sun, 07 Mar 2004 14:26:07 -0600 29256 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29252 I would have to suggest a Aerway as your best bet if you are doing it in the fall, we are trying to find a good way to avoid the compaction issue, haven't suceeded yet. Sat, 06 Mar 2004 08:34:43 -0600 29252 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29230 Once the bevel is worn significantly (compare to a new blade), the residue-cutting performance is much reduced, and soil penetration ability is also reduced. The bevel is largely gone by 17.25-inch diameter. Some people choose to continue using them long after that time, and the opener will continue to work reasonably well if the residue is dry and not too heavy. It is often necessary to move the seed boot to the upper hole to make everything work right if blades are worn substantially. Sat, 06 Mar 2004 07:08:23 -0600 29230 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29251 I would like to inject manure behind a 6000 gal. tank. I would like some ideas on different manure applicators to use. I would like one that doesn't disturb the top soil, so i can plant right behind it in the spring. Thu, 04 Mar 2004 19:51:53 -0600 29251 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29249 I would remove the wheels but I have my fertilizer tubes mouted on the firming wheel brackets. Thu, 04 Mar 2004 00:01:32 -0600 29249 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29248 Just passing this on, but Matt Hagney claims that switching to the SDX wheels will help this problem and actually work better than the Deere wheels. How about just taking the seed firming wheels off?You obviously have plenty of moisture. Wed, 03 Mar 2004 11:41:46 -0600 29248 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29247 I am trying to plant spring wheat into Perrenial ryegrass sod and my openers keep plugging. usually it is the gauge wheels getting packed full. It appears that the firming wheel is packing mud up to the gauge wheel. Would the SDX wheels prevent this? Any other ideas? I have ran this drill about 1000 acres in all kinds of conditions,without much trouble, but today it was unbearable. TIA, Garth Tue, 02 Mar 2004 23:32:29 -0600 29247 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29229 John, 16 inches is the recommended changing point. Tue, 02 Mar 2004 18:47:10 -0600 29229 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29245 Check with Jim at Dawn Equipment. He is very knowledgeable about row cleaners and has worked with narrow row situations. He'll try to sell you his row cleaners, but that is ok. http://www.dawnequipment.com/ Fri, 27 Feb 2004 11:19:13 -0600 29245 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29244 I am looking for input from other producers on different residue managers. I am considering buying new Martin 1320N residue managers. I am in 22 inch row so that complicates matters such as residue flow between row units. Looking for someone who has used this style or is happy with a different brand for narrow rows. Thu, 26 Feb 2004 16:24:00 -0600 29244 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29242 Has anyone had experience with the Shoup row cleaner which attaches to the John Deere single disc fertilizer opener? Thu, 19 Feb 2004 20:48:41 -0600 29242 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29217 I agree fully with Matt but if you insist on Keetons I have set off of a 1560 that have only covered about 300 acres that are for sale. Thu, 19 Feb 2004 01:19:19 -0600 29217 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29234 Considering switchin to nu-till type configuration for my planter with row cleaners, single disk openers, seed firmers, in-furrow fertilizer, and spiked closing wheels. Currently using Rawson 3 coulter setup with double disk fertilizer openers, Case/IH gage wheel, and regular packer wheels. Want to be able to plant earlier in our cold wet loam soils and have better penetration if it gets dry. What haave been your experiences with such a change? Or what are your thoughts? Thank you. Mon, 16 Feb 2004 09:07:31 -0600 29234 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29232 SEED FIRMER vs REBOUNDER Have any of you out there had the opportunity to compare the Keeton Seed Firmer with the Schaffert Y-Not Seed Cover for applying micro-nutrient starter fertilizer and also in regard to the action on the seed in the furrow? We are equipping a new planter and would really appreciate your input on making this decision. Porter Farms porter@ruraltel.net www.portersfarms.com Sun, 15 Feb 2004 13:11:54 -0600 29232 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29228 Just wondering how much wear I can get out of the opener blades . We are down to 16.5 in. on ours with almost no wear on seed boot. Wonder how small blades can get before they need to be replaced. Don't want to put extra wear on seed boots. Thu, 12 Feb 2004 17:23:45 -0600 29228 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29224 I think, if I remember my high school physics, that by raising your tank you could have left your hose routed under the platform. The weight of the fertilizer go down under the platform will push it back up on the other side. Wed, 11 Feb 2004 16:21:35 -0600 29224 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29226 I recently purchased a Krause 5255 with the pro seed units and was wondering if it would be advantages to add rebounders or keetons, and which would be better. It has the single rib press wheels. I'm doing soybeans in corn stubble in mostly clay loam. I have a double frame Kinze with Rawson zone till system for corn on soybeans. Again, Rebounders or Keetons? I've heard of problems with keetons in wetter conditions. Also, anyone have Experience which would be better on the Rawson system 8 wave or 13 wave coulters? Tue, 10 Feb 2004 16:11:54 -0600 29226 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29223 I have a 750 which I bought from a neighbor 3 years ago. It has a 200 gallon tank mounted on the frame on the rear of the drill, behind the platform. The supply line runs to the front of the drill where a squeeze pump is mounted. When I bought the drill, the supply line ran under the platform and traveled slightly uphill to get to the pump. Consequently, when the tank got below 100 gallons, the rate of application began decreasing. We raised the tank up a few inches, ran the supply line on top of the platform so that the pump doesn't have to pull the material uphill and it has worked better. Just be sure to install some sort of cover over the supply line to keep it in place, and more importantly, to keep from tripping over it! Sat, 07 Feb 2004 08:28:16 -0600 29223 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29222 Im wondering if anyone has put a fertilizer tank on a 750? If so how big? And where do you mount it? We have a 97' with dolly wheels. THANKS Fri, 06 Feb 2004 21:16:13 -0600 29222 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29211 I put SDX wheels on a 1560 last year using the JD arm and existing bolt. Everything lines up the same (or should). If it doesn't you can use washers to shim it. Works great! Thu, 05 Feb 2004 14:13:31 -0600 29211 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29210 Matt just a question on the SDX closing wheel. Do they mount on the Deere bracket or does it need too be modified,ifso,how is it mounted? Thu, 05 Feb 2004 08:19:38 -0600 29210 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29219 I have Martin row cleaners and 13 wave coulters on a Kinze 2600 with push units. In the past I've taken the row cleaners off to plant soybeans into corn stalk ground. In the last few years the population has gone up and I'm using BT corn that doesn't deteriorate as fast. When the coulter drifts over onto the corn row it isn't able to cut the stalk so the beans are left on top of the ground. I asked Martin what they thought I should do. They said to take off the coulter and put the row cleaners on. This will probably work but then all the stalks are ripped loose to be taken by the first wind or hard rain. Would a straight coulter cut thru the stalks or is there another way? I hate to have the fences and ditches full of corn stalks. Thanks Steve Tue, 03 Feb 2004 15:13:30 -0600 29219 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29216 The SDX wheel is from Case-IH. It is only 5/8-inch wide, where the Deere firming wheel is a full inch wide. Doesn't sound like much, but when it comes to fitting down in the furrow, it's a huge difference. Tue, 03 Feb 2004 01:38:50 -0600 29216 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29215 MATT------Please give a run-down on the sdx wheel, I'm not familier with it. Thanks in advance Mon, 02 Feb 2004 19:05:05 -0600 29215 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29214 The SDX firming wheel is much superior to a Keeton on the the 750-type drills. Buy or build a bracket to squirt the liquid fertilizer behind the firming wheel. Sun, 01 Feb 2004 22:57:43 -0600 29214 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29213 I had a 750 with keetons. I put them on the drill to firm the seed in the bottom of the seed trench but also to put on liquid fertilizer. I didn't like them very well for either job. First the keeton does not fit the full width of the seed trench so a lot of the seed would go around either side of the keeton without being firmed in the bottom of the seed trench. Second the fertilizer tube has to go into the seed tube just below the rubber seed boot and continue through the seed tube to the seed boot with the seed. The fertilizer tube then exits the seed boot with the seed and goes into a hole on the front of the seed firmer and exits the seed firmer on the top. It then follows the slot on the top of the seed firmer to the back where it dumps the fertilizer. If you develop a leak at the fertilizer manifold this fertilizer will follow the small fertilizer tubes down and into the seed tubes making a huge mess and plugging the seed tube. I found a garden hose is the only way to clean this mess out of the seed tubes. You will also wear a hole in the fertilizer tube where it exits the seed boot before it goes into the seed firmer. This lets the fertilizer out into the bottom of the seed boot creating a big mess and plugging the seed boot. I found that 1/4 inch plastic air line hose used on large trucks is much tougher, works better, and lasts about twice as long as the plastic tube that came with the keetons. I have not had any experience with the rebounders. Fri, 30 Jan 2004 14:51:08 -0600 29213 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29212 We are running keetons on our kinze planter and have run them on deere planters. We have been completely satisfied with the performance in vastly different soils that we have from farm to farm. The theory of firming the seed to the bottom of the trench that you have deliberately opened just makes sense. Fri, 30 Jan 2004 12:55:08 -0600 29212 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29209 I'm using a JD750 drill to no-till soybeans, wheat and oats. We have a wide variety of soils ranging from heavy clay to sand. I want to equip the drill with either keetons or rebounders. Was wondering which might work better Fri, 30 Jan 2004 08:23:29 -0600 29209 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29206 All responses you have received are probably correct on their farm on a given year. I would check with a successful no tiller in your area. Generally speaking if you can move the residue you will have a better stand. I would highly reccomend keeton seed firmers and spading closing wheels with drag chains Coulters depend on your ground at the time of planting ie. early spring versus summer double crop. There is no magic formula that works for everyone everytime. Here is a web site for Dave Moeller who probably knows more about setting up a good no till planter than anyone www.moelleragservice.com Thu, 29 Jan 2004 11:04:25 -0600 29206 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29205 Hi, I am converting an 8 row wide (36) front fold 7000 planter with a 7 row splitter behind. Theres a lot of room between planters. Im planting into standing cornstalks mostly, in the black soil of cen.Il. Some say I just need coulters, some say coulters with trash wheels, some say you dont really need anything but heavy closing wheels! What about the closing wheels, are the JD regular closing wheels enough? I need some expert advise!! I bought 8 used dawn floating adj. trash wheels with coulters cause they were a good buy, but wonder now if the throwing trash will be a problem? Could use all the help I can get!! THANKS!! Thu, 29 Jan 2004 08:48:52 -0600 29205 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29201 I'm looking at possibly buying a tile plow to do some drainage work. Any recommendations ? Are they worth there money or should I just get a contractor in? Does any one have one to rent? Thanks Lucas Criswell Sun, 18 Jan 2004 19:57:51 -0600 29201 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29176 I think you need to look at Redball. We bought a 12 row/ 30 inch 1200 gal liq rig and are very happy with the construction and durability of the machine. We have placed up to 60 gal / acre and had no problem. If you have more specific questions, let us know. ps. we don't sell them, but we're sold on them Sat, 17 Jan 2004 16:06:00 -0600 29176 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29199 We have been listening carefully to your comments, and -- as promised -- we are responding. Please note that the type size already has been enlarged so it is easier to read. We also understand the need for more explicit instructions about logging in and navigation, and those revisions are in the works and will be appearing soon. For the time being, please be aware that you can always use the "Back" button, and the so-called "bread crumbs" navigation tools are also available. Those are the "Farmers' Forum" and "Equipment" text links immediately above the first message. Click on either one and you will be taken back to that respective page. As for the navigation itself, it is the same as the great majority of message boards out there. It's even less complicated then some. I could find only one ag message board that still uses the same, "all at once" format that we used to, and that site is apparently plagued by software problems. Lastly, please understand that we sincerely want to make this site as easy to use as possible, and we care what you think. The more detailed your critiques of the site, the more insight we get. Thanks for staying with us. Regards, Ron Perszewski No-Till Farmer Wed, 14 Jan 2004 09:06:55 -0600 29199 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29198 Welcome to the new Farmers' Forum. I know there's some confusion out there, so let me take a moment to explain a few things. First, to post on this bulletin board, you need to register as a user. You can do that by going back to the home page and clicking on the "Register" button on the left side of the screen. That will walk you through a registration process in which you'll pick your own password. Once you've done that, you'll be able to log in any time you want to and post your messages on the Farmers' Forum. Registration allows us greater control in the event some users abuse this forum. It's rare, but it happens. If you don't register and log in, you will still be able to view the forum, you just won't be able to be an active participant. You'll also notice that we've divided the Forum into subject areas. We've done that to allow users to more easily find the topics that most interest them and also to speed the loading of the pages, particularly for people who have slower connections. Please remember that we've always emphasized that we want this to be your site and your forum. If there is something you don't like or a way you think it could be improved, send me an e-mail at perszewski@lesspub.com and we'll see what we can do. For example, I'll look into the size of the type, which was one visitor's concern. Meantime, please stay with us while we try to make this a board you really want to use regularly. Thanks for your patience, Ron Perszewski, Associate Editor, No-Till Farmer Tue, 16 Dec 2003 17:25:20 -0600 29198 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29186 Does anyone have any information on either the SI 40 cell flat seed disk or the JD 40 cell sweet corn disk? The JD disk's come in two sizes. One has a larger hole diameter. Has anyone used any of these disks? And what is your opinion of them. Thanks Tue, 09 Dec 2003 14:15:31 -0600 29186 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29175 We may be looking for a liquid fertilizer applicator with 35 foot tool bar that will cover 16, 30 " rows. Capacity from 1000 to 1600 gallons and use a twin piston pump. I have looked into DMI, Fast and Dalton. Are there any others or comments about these machines? Sat, 06 Dec 2003 08:41:32 -0600 29175 http://www.no-tillfarmer.com/pages/forum/Equipment.php#post29173 We introduced a tool last fall that was originally thought of as a tool that would assist with the management of manure in no-till situations. We named it the RTS - Residue Tillage Specialist It has become much more. Here is a list of functions that it is being used for to date. Aeration and early warming of seed beds in no till and conservation tillage. Incorporation of fertilizers, herbicides and manure. Incorporating wheat seed following soybeans, corn and tomatos. Insect (slug) control. Incorporating cover crop seed. Stalk chopping. Crust opening after heavy rains. Seedling weed control - up to 2" in height Residue management - uniform distribution, conditioning and sizing. Erosion control. Moisture control. Stale seedbed preperation. Residue management on frozen ground. Leveling of applicator and harvest equipment wheel tracks. Can be seen at http://www.salfordmachine.com For more information - salford@mdirect.net Thu, 04 Dec 2003 16:54:14 -0600 29173