No-Till Farmer

Reply to Sugar beet strip till

Wed, 21 Jul 2010 08:55:47 -0500

Hello Andrew, I'm french farmer from Normandy. In France, some growers are trying to plant sugar beets with strip till. We don't have a lot of experience but you can contact Duro France : contact@duro-france.com. They make a strip till ridge and have followed some farmers who did sugar beets in strip till. You can see pictures at : http://www.duro-france.com/materiel_agricole.php?id=16

Crop sharing

Tue, 20 Jul 2010 14:25:33 -0500

I farm with a crop share agreement for a family member, where i pay everything in full, except for the fertilizer bill, where I pay 2/3 and he pays a 1/3. Is there anybody that crop shares, that also splits the seed and chemical bill? Or is splitting the fert. bill only, the norm for crop share arrangements?

Row cleaners

Thu, 08 Jul 2010 12:07:00 -0500

Wondering which brand of row cleaner is best ? Martin? Yetter Shark tooth? An experience or advice would be appreciated Thanks Tim Fichtel �

Reply to New Planter What Brand

Fri, 25 Jun 2010 07:29:22 -0500

Matt thanks for the information. I have heard that Case IH has a real good product. At dealers that seel both Cash IH and Knize the red is now out selling the blue. � Tim Fichtel

Reply to New Planter What Brand

Tue, 22 Jun 2010 15:58:47 -0500

Tim, �� Would definitely look at the Case IH. It's a planter that properly calibrated is more accurate than even the Precision Setup is in most cases. The closing system does a good job of promotin seed to soil contact without packing the trench. Consistently in western Illinois the red plantes get the crop up two to three days ahead of the blue and green. JMHO the decision as always is yours.

New Planter What Brand

Mon, 14 Jun 2010 14:39:00 -0500

Looking at a new planter and wondering what brand? Leaning towards Kinzefinger pickup. But what are other folks experience with CaseIH? White? don't mention John Deere have one now hate it had Kinze before and� had good luck. Have the Martin Set up now on the John Deere would probably put that on any new planter I bought. So anyone have any advice or experience? Thanks Tim Fichtel �

28% sidedressing

Fri, 11 Jun 2010 22:33:09 -0500

Im building a toolbar for sidedressing 28%. Would like to here from anyone using the yetter magnum fertilizer coulters. Are they worth the price?

Yetter floating sharktooth trashwhips

Tue, 08 Jun 2010 14:17:20 -0500

I have the Yetter sharktooth trashwhips with depth wheels. Having trouble with them loading with soil. Thought maybe they had to scour off.After many times of knocking the soil off, they fill right back up.Some say I have to go to the straight teeth.I would like to make sharktooth blades work, being I already purchased them.

no till soybeans into cornstalks

Mon, 31 May 2010 20:39:25 -0500

clay soils -�I think I have all my beans in the moisture about 1-1.5 inches deep.� then the clay soils dry out and the seed is struggling. I have a 12-23 1780 jd planter wilth 13 wave coulters and seed firmers - pneumatic down pressure at 250 lbs

Reply to spading closing wheels

Sun, 23 May 2010 18:58:48 -0500

We use this arraingment on our planter and like it very much.We plant in every condition you can imagine. River silt bottom and stony gravel to no-till sod. We need to use very little down pressure and have never had a trench open on us. I do agree that sometimes corn plants dont line up perfect though. Love the Martins spikes

Reply to spading closing wheels

Wed, 19 May 2010 15:47:32 -0500

I have used this set up for the past three years and have never regretted doing it.� I use it on no-till and minimum till without needing to make any adjustments.� It seems to crumble the soil, rather than press it in hard.� Sometimes if the soil is just a bit wet, two solid wheels will set things up for the soil to crust over.� I followed the wisdom that the rubber wheel will firm up the soil and limit the chance for the soil to "wick" dry; but the spike will fracture the soil and allow easy emergence.� I set the down pressure on my Kinze's closing wheel arms to the first position, so there is little down pressure.� One thing I did notice is that the plants do not line up exactly down the row.� Maybe this is caused by the corn plant finding a fracture to emerge through or the seed being moved a tiny bit.� This is just an observation that has not made any difference to us.� We also added the Martin chains to run behind the closing wheels.� This has worked well and helps to leave the surface loose and maybe help cover any seeds that need just a bit more soil over them.

rolling soys

Wed, 19 May 2010 05:50:29 -0500

we would like to roll or cultipack� after drilling.� Am concerned that the residue might be to tight� and hurt emergence?? Would like to set stones some and breakup root balls. using CPH drill� Thanks Dick

spading closing wheels

Mon, 17 May 2010 15:42:33 -0500

I would like input on using one spading closing wheel and one rubber closing wheel for no-tilling. Any thoughts on whether to use them and how to set them up on my planter would be appreciated.

row cleaners

Sun, 16 May 2010 21:48:52 -0500

Looking at new planter. Have been using martin row cleaners with gauge wheels, like what they do but short life. What do people think of Kinze shark tooth verses martin floating cleaners

Reply to Planter For Seeding Into Cover Crops

Sun, 09 May 2010 10:40:47 -0500

What worked for me was to run a crop roller over the stalks to make them directional. This does not severe the stocks. A crop roller runs the same way you're planting and keeps them from jamming the equipment. This also saves the tires.

Reply to Sugar beet strip till

Wed, 05 May 2010 14:10:21 -0500

Dear Grant and Bogdan, thank you very much for your input and I will follow up with your suggestions and see where I get to. I would say that 235 HP for a 12 row tiller isn't too bad, 20 HP per unit is about where I thought we would have to be. We use an 8530 on Soucy tracks so 12 row would be no problem, we might be stretching it a bit to go to 18! Many thanks, Andrew Scoley

Reply to Will you accept lower corn yields with no-till?

Tue, 04 May 2010 19:59:07 -0500

I am after the bottom line but want good yields.� We averaged 209 dry with notill last year, our best ever.

Reply to voles

Tue, 04 May 2010 19:56:05 -0500

Turpentine helps but a mess to work with.� Coyotes doing a good job.� Did yours drown in all the rain?� The dog brought up some dead ones.

Reply to Pop up through Keetons

Tue, 04 May 2010 19:53:18 -0500

We put it down in the furrow with the supplied tube on the planter and the drill.

Reply to Sugar beet strip till

Tue, 04 May 2010 06:47:12 -0500

Hallo Andrew. My name is Bogdan Garalejic from Serbia. My collegue and I have strip till machine CASE DMI 5310 until 2006. We never works on sugar beet, �but we will try to do that. Try to find in German magazine Zuckerrube text with machine and planter from Koekerling and Becker which work on strip till. Striping and planting in the same time. I suggest you to speak with Mike Petersen from Orthman Manufecturing from USA who have experience with strip till and who is guru for this system. Maybe Orthman have his First riper, model, �with narrow rows. I wish you all the best, Bogdan Garalejic, Ag Extension Service Province of Vojvodina, Serbia.

Reply to case ih 1200 planter notill?

Sat, 01 May 2010 19:59:37 -0500

We have run yetter on Case IH 1200 series, had used thier sharks tooth but went back to spike ooth and went from rigid mount to floating bracket and for 2010 we added depth bands so we could let them float. have not looked at stands as of yet but the only conditions we found so far that they jumped a little to much were worked wheat stubble, We also use gerrinhoff roto disc and have done some soybean planting into standing cornstalks, disced cornstalks and into conservation tiled ground they seem to have handled all these situations, also tryed�into unworked soybean stubble seemed to work.

Reply to Will you accept lower corn yields with no-till?

Sat, 01 May 2010 14:03:20 -0500

Darrell,� I think that yields will be very close, but I think that strip-till definately increases yields. I do not think tho, that it is the tillage, but the placement of the fertilizer that doese it. I get best results when I can get the NPK banded deeper into the soil where roots can get to it when it is drier later on in summer.� I think tho that w/ deep placement of NPK there does need to be some N & P Banded rather close to the seed for a faster early start.�� Grant Corley

tag along liquid cart

Sat, 01 May 2010 06:19:30 -0500

Will the Yetter all steer work with a 12 row 3600 Kinze planter? A 3 wheel cart works well, but the turns are tight for a 4 wheel cart, it seems to me.� Are there 1000 gal + 3 wheel carts available?� What is your experience with the Yetter?� Does it have enough front axle pivot to navigate waterways?

Reply to Sugar beet strip till

Fri, 30 Apr 2010 13:50:31 -0500

Reply to Andrew,� I know nothing about sugar beet production, but I built a 12 row 20" striptill machine that works very well.� We knife in NH3 + dry 18-46-0 using a tow-between�aircart. The strip-till machine tows after the aircart w/ the NH3 tank behind that.� We use it for 20" corn & plan to to use it on some soybean acres to see how well it works.� We have used it on corn for 2 yrs.� w/ good results.� We do not quite till up an 8" wide strip, probably closer to 6", but we are� certainly getting our highest yields of corn w/ strip-till.� Power requirements in our soils are high.� We have a Front-Wheel assist tractor w/ 235 HP & it is loaded @ 5 - 5.5 MPH pulling the 12 row unit.� THat seems to be about the normal requirements to do the job in this area.� Grant Corley

Reply to Pop up through Keetons

Thu, 22 Apr 2010 10:44:34 -0500

I am using the splitter also. I like the idea of putting the fert. on either side of the seed.

Sugar beet strip till

Thu, 22 Apr 2010 03:59:05 -0500

I am a UK farmer who together with my neighbour and contractor will be using controlled traffic farming from this harvest. Whilst not a great fit to the system we would like to carry on growing sugar beet and I think a strip till system would work best for this. There are virtually no strip tillage machines here in the UK and I can see we will have to consider importing one from the USA. Do any of your readers have experience of strip tillage with sugar beet? I think we need a machine that tills an 8'' band, with the band centres 20'' apart as we grow beet on 20'' rows. This is somewhat narrower than corn bands which I understand are usually set at 30'', so is it possible to make a machine with rows this narrow? I want to find a 12 or 18 row machine, and would like to know what sort of power requirement we would need. We would like to band the fertilzer at the same time too.

Reply to Pop up through Keetons

Wed, 21 Apr 2010 20:27:00 -0500

We use the y to put it down both sides

Will you accept lower corn yields with no-till?

Tue, 20 Apr 2010 10:30:22 -0500

The No-Till Practices survey that No-Till Farmer conducted showed that the corn growers whose yields were among the top one-third conducted more tillage than the average reader. However, they saw their net income decline 4% vs. 1% for the overall average. That suggests that while tillage helped improve their yields, it didn't improve the bottom line. What do you think of this? What have you experienced?

Reply to case ih 1200 planter notill?

Thu, 08 Apr 2010 12:25:10 -0500

I have the same planter with yetters on the corn rows. They work great. We took off the coulters and run just the row cleaner. when we plant beans into corn we lift the cleaners. It is important to wait until the fodder is on the dry side and/or the ground temps are warm to plant beans. If you plant the beans early you run the risk of significant slug damage. Yetter does have row cleaner avaiable for the split rows but I don't think it is necessary. Here in South East PA we don't lose bean yeild until the 15 of May.

Reply to solid manure

Mon, 29 Mar 2010 08:06:40 -0500

get a knight or meyer spreader. both are very nice and eaven spread patern. �

Reply to no-tilling into CRP

Sun, 28 Mar 2010 19:11:38 -0500

Ben, � I converted 80 acres last spring.� You are on the right track with RR beans.� Don't forget to innoculate your beans. � I baled the grass the fall before.� I would suggest you burn off the residue this spring.� No-tilling into that heavy dead residue could cause some problems. � I yieled 75 bushels to the acre and lost some due to a few wet spots. � Good luck with your burn. � Norm Deets

Reply to 15" martin on kinze for beans?

Thu, 25 Mar 2010 00:24:39 -0500

I haven't seen that Jason but won't say it can't work.� Some people can make anything work.� Just finished putting the spaders on ever 15 inch row, those rows were so much better last year.� Maybe I can get a picture of it on here.

15" martin on kinze for beans?

Fri, 19 Mar 2010 07:42:09 -0500

need some help. Will a single stock closing wheel and a martin 15" spiked wheel work while planting soybeans? Concern is the difference in size of the two wheels. Seems to me that the spiked wheel will be runninng deeper than the seed. Thanks Guys

no-tilling into CRP

Thu, 18 Mar 2010 13:49:35 -0500

I am going to be turning 160 of CRP, back into crop production. What is the best way to do that? I am planning on planting soybeans. Should i no-till right into the thick grass residue, should i swath the residue off first, or what should i do?

Pop up for soys in furrow?

Mon, 15 Mar 2010 19:32:44 -0500

Any one running a pop up for soybeans? If so what is it� and the rate.

Pop up through Keetons

Mon, 15 Mar 2010 19:30:37 -0500

Those of you who run pop up through keeton's, are you guys using the tube with the� splitter to apply product on both sides of the seed furrow or the tube that puts product directly on top of the seed.

solid manure

Fri, 12 Mar 2010 15:44:38 -0600

What is the best or most efficient (to utilize fertility) method of applying cattle manure solids to no-till crop land. I pile it up and let it decompose for 3-4 years before hauling to the field (gets rid of hay and straw) usually in the fall, but still have large chunks after a light disking in the spring.

solid manure

Fri, 12 Mar 2010 15:44:37 -0600

Reply to John Deere 750 drill

Fri, 12 Mar 2010 13:38:15 -0600

The opening disk bevel is toward the seed boot. Another item you may want ot consider is the newer 60 and 90 series closing wheel bearing location. www.shoupparts.com or www.tsrparts.com , I fought the bearing in the cast iron closing wheel for years. Other than that I think it's a great drill. � �

Reply to Planter For Seeding Into Cover Crops

Wed, 10 Mar 2010 13:19:50 -0600

What can I put in front of my JD 7200 planter units to keep cornstalks from jamming into every bracket and moniter wiring on the planter while I no-till into standing cornstalks?

Yetter ultra narrow titan row cleaners

Tue, 09 Mar 2010 22:37:10 -0600

I have recently purchased a case ih 955 12\23 planter and I need to put row cleaners on every row for planting beans after corn.� I am concerned about blockage from the amount of residue that will be moved in the close quarters of the row units.� I have found a special unit by yetter that is made for 15" rows and would like any input from someone who may have used these row cleaners.� Speed will definetly have a huge impact on how well any row cleaner will work and the units are so close to each other on this particular planter that I'm concerned that I will have to run very slow for the row cleaners to work properly.� Thanks in advance for any insight.�� Greg

Reply to schlagel closing wheel

Tue, 09 Mar 2010 12:07:21 -0600

I'm looking for the best all around closing wheel setup.� I have bottom ground that is black and sticky when wet and mellow hills and a little red clay that is hard to close the gap on.� I'm considering the cast tapered closing wheels or a spiked closing wheel but don't have enough info other than sales pitches. Thanks for the feed back.

John Deere 750 drill

Sat, 06 Mar 2010 12:46:11 -0600

I just bought a used John Deere 750 no-till drill. the opening disks were worn down past the bevel. I'm am replacing all of the disks but I'm not sure which way the bevel should face. Sould the bevel be facing the seed boot or the gauge wheel or does it make any difference. Any advice would be appreciated.

GP TURBO coulters

Fri, 05 Mar 2010 12:25:18 -0600

Are the turbo coulters worth the extra money?

voles

Mon, 01 Mar 2010 19:20:18 -0600

does any one know of a seed treatment to keep the voles from eating newly planted seed corn ? Heard something a no-till conf years ago about using turpintine on seed corn ( sounds harsh to me )

Reply to voles

Mon, 01 Mar 2010 19:15:13 -0600

Is their any body that knows of�a seed treatment that can be used to control voles while after corn is planted?

voles

Mon, 01 Mar 2010 19:12:03 -0600

vole control in row crops?

Reply to fert. app/soil test levels

Wed, 17 Feb 2010 08:25:10 -0600

Your test levels for the top 3in are bound to be higher if you are broadcasting P &K.� Your roots are growing downward pulling nutrients from deeper in the profile.�� The nutrients will move down thru the profile slowly.� Some guys cut back or don't apply every year so in theory a layer of low fertility is moving down thru the profile.� In notill it is important to be appling every year to keep the nutrient levels in check down thru the profile.�� Where you are growing soybeans and wheat you have quite a few roots in the top three inches but fertility is still important deeper in the profile Hope that helps.

Reply to White 5100 Frame Mounted Double Arm Coulter

Mon, 15 Feb 2010 20:53:20 -0600

I had bought a used 6100 with the frame mount coulters. We had no problem with them this last spring. I did find that the previous owner had set them way to deep. It looked like he was dragging trash with the coulter. I have found that the coulter shouldn't run as deep as you plant in my soil type. A plus of the frame mount coulter are that they do not make the row unit ride up if they hit something and they do not wear out the linkage on the row unit.

fert. app/soil test levels

Mon, 15 Feb 2010 17:32:12 -0600

I have been basing my fertilizer applications on soil samples 6" deep. This on soils no tilled 15+ years. P levels 40#/a., K levels 210#/a. 90% of my fertilizer is broadcast, remainder is in-furrow. Soil samples @ 2"-3" are far, far higher. The question: Should I be basing my application rates on the 3" sample or continue to base it on the 6" sample? My primary crops are soybeans and small grains. Thanks for the help, Tom K.

Reply to No-Till Oats

Thu, 11 Feb 2010 14:32:01 -0600

Works very well for us in New York . Mostky forage oats

Reply to reseed same fields

Wed, 10 Feb 2010 14:37:19 -0600

Hi Rodney, On our farm we have been no-tilling pastures and hay ground for three years now. It can be done sucessfully where you live because we farm similar ground. The easiest way is to rotate to corn for one year. We have also no-tilled BMR sudangrass to help get rid of sod. Last year we sprayed a pasture with roundup. Did it again on month later. then we sprayed one quart roundup this spring thenspread on 5000 gallons manur per acre than no tilled one week later on May 10 . Excellant stand. Go on you -tube and search for" Angelrose Dairy"... They are my videos. ..Good day . John Kemmeren

Huckstep shoe

Tue, 09 Feb 2010 21:22:49 -0600

I was reading about the location of the fertilizer placement on these.� I guess they set just next to the seed tube.� Looks to me like that might mess up seed placement and make some vibration.� Just curious.

2x2 32%

Sun, 07 Feb 2010 17:46:20 -0600

I am wanting to put on 32% with the planter 2x2.� any suggestions-am I better off to knife it in with a coulter/knife setup, or will it be just as effective put on with a tube infront of my row cleaner.

Planter For Seeding Into Cover Crops

Fri, 05 Feb 2010 10:20:51 -0600

We want to purchase a no-till planter. We have been trying to find a source of no-till planters that transplant and seed through a killed cover crop. Do you have any suggestions? Posted on behalf of Walter J. Haas

Reply to trash whips

Thu, 04 Feb 2010 08:21:20 -0600

We are just converting to notill and we'll be doing it on corn, soybeans and wheat.� Looking to add trash whippers to an older 7000 John Deere planter.�� What do you like about the sunco?� Performance, reliability or maybe price?

Reply to Foliar fertilizer

Wed, 03 Feb 2010 19:27:34 -0600

What Foliar fertilizers are you currently using on Soybeans?� We have used Coron a foliar nitrogen + boron with some success on nitrogendeficient corn. Another grower used some on some sorghum will check with him for results

Reply to front mounted fertilizer tank

Tue, 02 Feb 2010 21:41:01 -0600

i�have a pull bar on my 8300 that bolts to the fram in the front, then the weights bracket�is bolted on to it.� For the past two years i have put a 100 gal tank on each side of the front and thats where i put my pop-up. i also take the weights off when i do this

trash whips

Mon, 01 Feb 2010 15:10:42 -0600

wondering if anyone has any coments on the shark tooth whips. we notill into corn, beans, and wheat stubble. Have been using martins with good luck. Getting a new kinze split row and am looking to put them on every row. I have been told the shark tooth is a good one but just wanted to see if i could hear some more about it or anything else out thare. thanks all

case ih 1200 planter notill?

Sat, 30 Jan 2010 19:53:05 -0600

We have a case ih 1200 planter. We use a gerringhoff rotodisk corn head. Are there any row cleaners that would work well for us? We'd like to go continuous no-till corn and beans alternating every year. Please help me with any info you may have. Thanks!

Reply to Strip-Till Setups

Fri, 29 Jan 2010 20:24:38 -0600

When you say strip till units are you talking about a strip till bar or a planter attachment?

Strip-Till Setups

Wed, 27 Jan 2010 13:29:16 -0600

Do you know who builds strip-till units with trash-cutting coulters mounted slightly ahead of the trash cutting wheels, similar to a Dawn 1572 combination coulter trash wheel unit? We have a lot of interest in strip-till among vegetable and pumpkin producers around Claverack, N.Y. Posted for Stu Kinne at skinne@columbiatractor.com

front mounted fertilizer tank

Sun, 24 Jan 2010 19:09:15 -0600

I have a JD 8420T tractor I use for corn planting.� I have two saddle tanks but would like to increase my capacity with a front mounted tank.� I know they say not to do it, but has someone done it successfully?

Reply to Trying some Finesse

Fri, 22 Jan 2010 12:32:30 -0600

�Where can I get a list of all the herbicides that have redisual carry over through the summer, and a list of the ones that dont, forboth corn an beans. �� thank you� jd4020

Reply to dry starter fert. on corn?

Fri, 22 Jan 2010 12:25:10 -0600

�I made two mistakes last year, first I cut back on my fertilizer. the second one is I spread urea and p and k all it once when you cut back on p and k you dont have enough material to carry the urea, so the urea goes in about a ten foot strip the p and k goes about thirty five feet, it sure hurt my yields The urea is heaver and more dense.� If I go with dry again I will make two trips , one with urea and the next with p and k.� jd4020

Reply to no-till row markers

Fri, 22 Jan 2010 11:58:09 -0600

� I HAVE A 7000 PLANTER, IT IS HARD TO SEE THE MARK NOTILLING BEANS INTO CORN STALKS, i put on martin weights, that didnot help much, then I bought deere notched blades, that did not help, then I added weights to them , that did not help much.�� Also Ihave one martin spiked closing and there drag chains,sometimes they get get caught in the spiked wheel.� With my yetter trash whippers, Ihave to put my dry fertilizer openers to far away from the row, otherwise they hit the whippers. I need some advice. thank you� jd4020

Reply to Which cover crops work best ahead of notill soybeans?

Thu, 21 Jan 2010 10:01:50 -0600

What I have seen is that if it is sunny and warm atleast sunny it is alot easier to kill rye.� I have seen it for my self two feild two days one is brown one is not.�

Reply to reseed same fields

Tue, 19 Jan 2010 20:42:52 -0600

I FARM IN THE SOUTHERN TIER OF WESTERN NY ALFALFA DOES NOT GROW GOOD UNLESS WE ARE ON GOOD GRAVEL� GROUND IN THE VALLEY WE ARE MOSTLY HILLS ON ARE FARM AND SOME WHAT WET GROUND� RED CLOVER REEDS CANARY TIMOTHY TREFOIL IS ARE MAIN CROPS� WHAT DO YOU THINK ABOUT RESEEDING ON GROUND� WITH WHAT IM DELING WITH

Reply to Which cover crops work best ahead of notill soybeans?

Fri, 08 Jan 2010 10:32:13 -0600

Big wheat and small rye are hard to kill. I've had WAY more problems killing wheat after it gets a foot+ high than I've ever had killing rye.�We used to get pretty freaked out about rye, and have dumped a couple of qts of glyphosate on it at a foot tall or less and had so-so results. I've taken 2 ft tall rye out easily with�1-2 pints of glyphosate the same year that 2 qts wouldn't kill 6" rye. � Wheat and rye are both grasses, thats where the similarity ends in terms of cover crops. I beleive that most of the fear of rye "getting away from us" is founded in the old days when rye was plowed down in the spring.

Reply to reseed same fields

Thu, 07 Jan 2010 07:58:15 -0600

Alfalfa is one of the easiest crops to no-till for us. We havn't worked ground for it in over 20 years here in sewi. Reseeding alfalfa into an old stand has never ever worked for us. We always plant another crop in between because it takes a year to alleve the alleopathic effect of the old alfalfa. We plant at 1 inch depth where most all of the residue has been removed. It is not too deep because the ground will not crust with no-till. We use 15 lbs of seed with a JD no-till drill set in the second notch and have never had a failure. good luck

Reply to Row Cleaners for JD7100 20" ?.?.?

Wed, 06 Jan 2010 21:29:52 -0600

Hey Joe, � I run a Kinze 2700 planter on 20" rows with the kinze coulter/floating row cleaner combo. My planter units are staggered 9" to allow for trash flow. It works well, but in heavy residue it does plug occasionally. Especially if you've had any trash floated into piles by standing water etc. I would take a close look at the martin narrow row row cleaner, I have not had the opportunity to try them but I have heard of others having good results.

Reply to reseed same fields

Wed, 06 Jan 2010 11:55:19 -0600

I was wondering that now with all the ECB and RW technology available in corn seed whether it still pays to chop�corn stubble in the fall before going in with beans the next sprin. GET in PAm7xgy8

Reply to reseed same fields

Sat, 02 Jan 2010 09:02:25 -0600

If i were you I would not reseed the same feild with alfala.� grasses would work. It does not matter no-till or coventional

Killing Cereal Rye

Fri, 01 Jan 2010 14:21:32 -0600

What are the best ways to kill cereal rye in the spring before no-till planting corn?

Reply to reseed same fields

Wed, 30 Dec 2009 23:57:32 -0600

i have been told triying to reseed on old hay ground with no till wont work

Reply to reseed same fields

Wed, 30 Dec 2009 23:54:30 -0600

sorry i ment with out plowing to reseed

reseed same fields

Wed, 30 Dec 2009 23:51:11 -0600

i only use balege on my farm i need to find abetter way to reseedmy fields with out tilling g

Reply to Which cover crops work best ahead of notill soybeans?

Mon, 28 Dec 2009 07:44:55 -0600

Gene, we got 125 ac of barley planted late October and it is looking good.� I think you might have the right idea.� Wheat is OK but it is so hard to kill here, took 3 quarts of glyphosate to really kill it here two years ago because it got out of hand, thus the fear of cereal rye.� Oats would have worked this year and would be dead by now like our radishes planted earlier.

Reply to Corn Stalk Tillage

Sun, 27 Dec 2009 21:04:52 -0600

Larry,

The Salford RTS is similar to the Turbo Till in that they are both considered vertical tillage tools, that is�working the soil from a vertical profile rather than a horizontal profile which conventional tillage tools do.� I would be more than willing to share my learning experiences with you.� My phone number is 231-937-4640.� Call my anytime from 8 a.m. 8 p.m.

Rick Toth

Reply to Corn Stalk Tillage

Sat, 26 Dec 2009 10:50:04 -0600

Richard, Not sure what the Salford is. Local dealer has suggested a Turbo Till are they simular? Also not sure how to find your email or phone#. Thank you for the reply and also thanks to Greg for his.

Reply to $ Value info needed

Mon, 21 Dec 2009 20:13:16 -0600

I would say that if yield data has been kept since going to continuous corn, any yield drag should be able to be estimated in the case of having to plant soybeans. Thats the only way possible to figure out future income loss I suppose.

Reply to $ Value info needed

Mon, 21 Dec 2009 14:23:46 -0600

I should have re worded my response. NO WAY would I agree to plowing it. Period. My point was that plowing might make things worse anyway from a herbicide carryover standpoint, so theres reason number 39 not to do it. � My reference to $ was that there may or may not be an income hit going to soys rather than corn in�Jeffs case. If Jeff does feel it'll cause some economic dis advantage to planting something other than corn, thats what needs to be settled.

Reply to Gps Lightbar guidance

Sun, 20 Dec 2009 08:34:28 -0600

How many rows and what spacing do you have?

Reply to Corn Stalk Tillage

Sun, 20 Dec 2009 07:23:54 -0600

Larry First let me start out by saying what works for one individual on one side of the fencerow may not work for the other individual on the other side of the fencerow.� That being said, I had a Phillips Rotary Harrow, a fine tool.� The Phillips had its drawbacks in my operation, however.� For the 2009 season I purchased a Salford RTS.� I worked the top 1-2 inches of the soil profile...very pleased.� I have no problem getting into further details either through this medium, e-mail or phone if you're interested. Rick Toth

What to do with residue

Sat, 19 Dec 2009 09:41:27 -0600

I will be no-tilling soybeans into milo stubble next spring, will the soil temperature warm up faster if i leave the milo residue standing until i plant? I usually run a flail shredder over the stubble during the winter to knock it down. Which is better? Thanks

Reply to $ Value info needed

Fri, 18 Dec 2009 05:55:30 -0600

They should pay for future income loss as well, because the loss is due to their negligence.� The benefits of 16 years of continous notill are priceless.� Bill them accordingly..

Reply to Weed Control In High Organic-Matter Soils

Fri, 18 Dec 2009 05:48:19 -0600

I understand your thinking behind the increasing rates thing, I've been there.� I have one muck farm that has organic matters as high as 50% in some areas.� Maybe I should call it a peat bog. lol� I use standard rates there, you just have to be diligent about scouting for outbreaks and reapply as needed.� Is reapplying the same as applying a higher rate?� No.� Think in terms of crop injury,,,� that may occur with higher rates.� I hope this is helpful.� Mark

Reply to $ Value info needed

Thu, 17 Dec 2009 23:52:52 -0600

If I remember correctly�Pursuit dissipates aerobically. If that is in fact correct (please double check that!) plowing will make the problem potentially worse. Not sure why the rep would recommend plowing, I'd sure want a second opinion from your extension service. As�far as carry over- any way you can go to soys next year? Should be no carry over issues then. � Wish I could help with a $ figure for you. But I really don't know what would be fair. If you have to plant something beside corn and feel you'll take an income hit, should be an easy calculation. Not sure that the ins co will settle for "future" income loss, though.

Reply to $ Value info needed

Sat, 12 Dec 2009 12:23:10 -0600

Local CoOp Contanimated the tote I got from them. Should have been HalexGT, which it was, but it had a full rate of Pursuit mixed in with it. Sprayed over the top of 20" corn late in june.

White 5100 Frame Mounted Double Arm Coulter

Fri, 11 Dec 2009 07:44:45 -0600

Just purchased a White 5100 planter that is set up by the previous owner for no till.� The planter has a Factory Mounted Double Arm Coulter with 13" Yetter Spiked tooth trash whippers.� I've heard people removing their Coulters on other planters because of hair pinning issues.� Should I remove the frame mounted coulters completely and switch to the Yetter pin adjust mounts?

Gps Lightbar guidance

Wed, 09 Dec 2009 14:57:25 -0600

Anybody out there having luck with lightbar guidance for planting (outback S2)?� Ordered one for next year.� How do you set the swath width, taking in consideration the guess row?

Reply to no-till row markers

Wed, 09 Dec 2009 14:24:00 -0600

Anybody out there having luck using lightbar gps for planting (Outback S2), using waas, not RTK?� How do you set swath width to take guess rows in consideration?

Row Cleaners for JD7100 20" ?.?.?

Wed, 09 Dec 2009 12:00:31 -0600

Hi y'all!� New to the forum.� I am thinking about no-tilling my beans in next year and am in the market for some row cleaners.� I am on 20's with a rebuilt 7100 JD.� I have heard varying advice on whether or not to use the double or single wheel row cleaners.� I was informed that the two wheel designs "teepee" too much trash in between and the single row doesn't do enough.�� Any advice would be much appreciated. ~Joe

Reply to Corn Stalk Tillage

Sat, 05 Dec 2009 18:12:38 -0600

I prefer to leave corn stalks standing and intact prior to�no-tilling soybeans. However the standing stalks are generally not the problem, it's the stalks and other corn residues that are on the ground that can become an issue.�Too much residue on the ground will slow soil warming and delay�drying.�When those situations occur we have a Phillips rotary harrow that is run 2 - 3 days before planting soybeans. The rotary harrow only disturbs the top inch of soil or less and fluffs the residue allowing the soil to warm and dry evenly. � However, �

Reply to $ Value info needed

Tue, 24 Nov 2009 07:27:10 -0600

What chemical was applied, and who applied it?

Planting Population

Mon, 23 Nov 2009 21:12:01 -0600

Hey Everyone. I've been no-tilling corn off and on for the last 4 years or so. I'm trying to find a program that really works so that I can stick with it continuously. I have an IH 800 Cyclo Air planter with Keeton seed firmers and Yetter liquid fertilizer coulter/knife setup. I apply 10 gallons of 10-34-0 in 2x2 placement and I'm on 36 inch rows. I am trying to figure out what population would be at the optimum level in my situation. Also, I am looking to find out what setups people have on their IH Planter for the best performance in no-till. Row cleaners? Coulters?

Reply to Breaking Down Corn Stalks

Sat, 21 Nov 2009 10:12:59 -0600

Yes, I applied 100 lbs of AMS to help break mine down.� I have used 28 and high fructose corn syrup with good results.� 25 lbs N seems to do the job for me.

Reply to No-Till Oats

Sat, 21 Nov 2009 09:34:00 -0600

I get feed oats from the mill and order some certified and plant away!� Very good cover crop!� I have never raised notill oats for grain.� That last time dad and I tried it it made 125 beautiful bushels per acre many years ago!

Breaking Down Corn Stalks

Thu, 19 Nov 2009 20:12:56 -0600

Do you apply nitrogen or any type of biological products to corn stalks after harvest to help them break down by planting time? Any opinions as to what works best?

Reply to The Passing Of Norman Borlaug

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 22:15:06 -0600

I met Norman and we had a good serious chat.� I think I paid more attention to cereal grains in my rotation thanks to him.� He helped millions of people and led a good life.

Reply to $ Value info needed

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 22:12:10 -0600

Aw, that is bad.� I would charge them $800 per acre if it were mine just off the top of my head.� Why not notill it into corn again???� Plowing, yuck, but if you have to...

Reply to chaff spreading

Wed, 18 Nov 2009 22:09:32 -0600

I think that is one of the biggest problems of farming.� Hardly anyone spreads the residue evenly and you end up banding the residue which contains fertilizer and affect the weed population.� We all need to do a better job.� Look at the Redekop as Phillip Needham says, anything but stock equipment.� No one does a good job.

Reply to John Blue Piston Pump

Tue, 17 Nov 2009 23:53:44 -0600

In any problem analysis, we have to specify the problem, check whether there is any deviation from the normal condition, identify the possible causes, evaluate the possible causes and then confirm the true cause. Pumps or other machinery will give tell tale signs when they are not working properly. An observant pump user will be able to avoid major breakdowns or damage if the problem is corrected early. In order to solve any pump problem, we need to notice the symptoms carefully so as to determine the most likely causes. Instruments like pressure gauges are very helpful and should be installed in the pumping system. Very often we do have to rely on our 5 senses to pinpoint the exact symptom. Normally, pump problems can be classified into Suction Related, System Related, or Mechanical Related. It can also be a combination of these. Most of the system related problems occur because of design flaw. For example, the designer may have chosen the wrong pump whose characteristic does not match the system requirement. Suction related problems are usually caused by air lock that are due to a variety of reasons... The effects of mechanical related problems could manifest themselves as suction related problems - air leaks in the system, worn out impellers, and mouth rings - but the most common symptom is the presence of vibration and abnormal noise in the equipment. DiagnoPump, pump troubleshooter has been created for pump users and sellers to help them find the solution quickly. Arranged so that the easiest (and often overlooked) causes are examined first, it could be a very useful tool. If you are a beginner, you can start the troubleshooting from the very first steps. More experienced users may want to start from the later stages in the symptom list. The symptoms have beenidentified to make it easy to zero in on the correct ones. The symptoms have been arranged as: 1. No Flow, No Pressure - No water delivered at all 2. Low Flow and Low Pressure - Pump does not deliver sufficient water or Pump does not deliver water after some time or Insufficient pressure developed 3. Short Lifespan of Shaft Seal or Packing - Shaft seal or Gland Packing does not last long 4. Short Lifespan of Bearings, Noisy Operation - Bearings do not last long or vibration and noisy operation or overheating of parts or seizure of bearings 5. Pump Trips - Pump stops by itself or Excessive power consumption With this easy pump troubleshooter, anyone could easily pinpoint the causes in a very short time.

chaff spreading

Mon, 16 Nov 2009 15:36:30 -0600

Our 9760 STS JD combine puts too much chaff in a 4-5 ft. strip directly behind the combine in wheat. The chaff escapes out the 2 grain loss moniter holes, the 2 side vent holes and the open strip on the bottom. A lot of it goes through the chopper and is spread but too much ends up forming a mat�in a 4-5 ft�strip. Any sugestions? Francis

$ Value info needed

Mon, 09 Nov 2009 21:55:38 -0600

I have a farm that has been in contious no-till for 16 years, the last 7 have been corn on corn,yields ranging from 235 dry land to 276 irrigated. Due to a herbicide miss application this years corn crop was destroyed, Also chemical MFG advised me that the field should be plowed and fit to help prevent carry over for the following year. There Ins. company and I are trying to put a dollar value on what that may be. Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks

Reply to No-till planter ?

Mon, 09 Nov 2009 14:30:48 -0600

Hi, we are interested in purchasing a used no till seed drill. We have seen a video on the Haybuster 101 and were really impressed. We have rolling terrain and want to reseed our old pastures for our beef cattle for rotational grazing. Would welcome any advice on different types. we thought 10' for width is enough. we are located� on the mid-coastal area of california. Thanks

Corn Stalk Tillage

Mon, 09 Nov 2009 07:35:37 -0600

If we are going to do some kind of tillage to corn stalks before soybeans what tool should we use that will have the least impact to the benefits gained by 15 years of notill

Reply to Notill soybeans-7000 planter needs??

Sun, 11 Oct 2009 05:35:20 -0500

For low-disturbance continuous no-till, we have a lot of experience which is set forth on these pages: � http://exapta.com/knowledge/tipplanter.html � http://exapta.com/knowledge/seed_placement.html � http://exapta.com/products/rethinking_seeding.html � http://exapta.com/news/nws_mar09.pdf (pdf might take a few seconds to load; longer if your connection is slow;�this particular newsletter�covers many details of planter setup) � best regards, � --Matt Hagny, consulting agronomist since '94, founder of Exapta Solutions ('99). �

Reply to Broad Casting "Potash"

Fri, 09 Oct 2009 11:41:33 -0500

To me it sounds like more of a problem with balance in the percent of base saturation of magnesium and calcium. Using an acid and a base together to keep from raising or lowering the pH may allow the potassium to be freed up and cause the "crops to explode." I would�something like gypsum may be beneficial without seeing the soil test results.

Reply to Notill soybeans-7000 planter needs??

Fri, 09 Oct 2009 11:32:32 -0500

Over the winter months this past year, our farm made an 8 row 18 inch bean planter on the frame of a 4 row planter with a second beam set across the rear of the wheels. We mounted all 8 rows on the rear beam and put together with Acra Plant notched opener�discs. It worked very well this spring in both no-till and conventional situations. Our biggest problem is creating the down pressure because we have not gained enough weight to spread across all 8 rows. Overall we are very pleased with the outcome and the stand of the crop though.

Weed Control In High Organic-Matter Soils

Tue, 06 Oct 2009 11:14:33 -0500

I have been no-tilling plus using cover crops for 10 years. I now have over 3.1 organic matter in one farm, 4.0 on another and 5 on a third farm just out of CRP. This year on some corn fields, the weed control was bad. I have heard you should increase herbicide rates when your organic matter gets above 3. Has anybody experienced this?

Cereal Rye

Thu, 01 Oct 2009 22:02:40 -0500

I would like to try seeding some cereal rye in to corn stalks this fall.� How many lbs. per acre do I want to drill if I use a 1560 Deere?� Should I use less if I try 15" rows with a Kinze planter?� The corn has a lot of Fall Panicum in it, should that be killed first.� If I plant the cereal rye in 15" rows, will the rows be to far apart to get the winter weed control?� Thanks for any responses.� Also, where can I get the backing plates for a Kinze meter to plant cereal rye, wheat, etc.?

Reply to Which cover crops work best ahead of notill soybeans?

Thu, 24 Sep 2009 09:59:18 -0500

Gene, what is your next crop?� As the season gets late, your options clearly go down.� We worry about rye getting away from us in the SC PA as well.� Many use wheat or barley.� Don't get much growth before winter, but, then it takes off in the spring to suck up excess moisture and get you in the field timely.� If you are planting corn the follwoing year, I would consider a legume like clover or vetch.� Both will not produce much in the fall either,but, will grow in the spring.� A reduced rate of small grain with the legume is a real nice "compromise".� I'm interested in tritical as an option.� It germinates like rye but grows more like wheat.� Might be a better option for those who are concerned about having 6 foot rye to contend with in the spring?

Reply to spraying

Wed, 16 Sep 2009 12:34:11 -0500

You would be wise to spray out these weed in the fall.� This will also kill� volunteer wheat which is apt to carry over disease to next years crop.� Fall applications of herbicides are also effective on weeds like bind weed, dandelioin and thistles.

The Passing Of Norman Borlaug

Mon, 14 Sep 2009 15:14:20 -0500

How do you feel the work of Norman Borlaug has impacted your farming practices today? Are there some practices you utilize in your operation today that reflect Borlaug's principles?

Reply to Red Clover

Sun, 13 Sep 2009 20:03:24 -0500

For more information regarding Red and Crimson Clover go to: "www.oregonclover.org"

Reply to No-Till Oats

Sun, 13 Sep 2009 19:33:41 -0500

We no-till oats in Oregon! What kind of information do you need?

Controlling Weeds In Areas Used For Waterfowl Habitat, Hunting

Fri, 11 Sep 2009 09:38:37 -0500

We plant continuous corn in ponds that we flood in the fall to attract waterfowl for hunting. The ponds we plant tend to be wet and the soil is heavy. Would it be OK if we let the weeds come up in the spring, spray them with Roundup, surface spread fertilizer and then plant the corn? Any distrubance of the ground results in poor germination. The emerging corn is picked off by blackbirds. Will planting deeper help us with this? Will the sprayed weeds assist in keeping the blackbirds out? We have a John Deere no-till planter with fertilizer boxes. Would it be better to run the fertilizer through these boxes instead of broadcasting? These ponds are from 2 to 5 acres in size. Submitted on behalf of Jim Scheer, La Grange, IL

spraying

Tue, 08 Sep 2009 16:37:08 -0500

Recently took my wheat crop off and now have some weeds starting to come in.� The question that I have is should I spray this fall to kill those existing weeds or should I wait until next spring and spray at that time, therefore, saving myself a spray expense.� Many of these weeds are annuals and will be around next�spring.� My feilds will be planted back into spring wheat which will be flood�irrigated.� Sometimes what happens in the spring you get a flush of weeds and you spray and plant.� However, if the rains don't come after you plant I have to�irrigate the wheat out of the ground and if this happens I lose about 30% in yeild because the weeds robed my moisture.��Anyone a good plan of attack for this problem?

Reply to Which cover crops work best ahead of notill soybeans?

Tue, 08 Sep 2009 14:50:44 -0500

I want to try cover crops after the soybeans are off this fall for the first time.� I'm in SW Mich.� The MSU extention�fellow told me to use cereal rye, but I can see having problems with a�wet�spring. Barley could be a good option, but will�It germinate and get a decent stand�if I drill it in with my JD 750 no till drill in approx. the end of October?� Should I look at something else such as hairy fetch?� Thanks in�advance for your input.��

Reply to Erobic vs. Anaerobic soil transition?

Sun, 30 Aug 2009 08:53:24 -0500

My apologies. I once again have failed to relate my intentions through written example. I take full respocibility for it. I was hoping to focus more on the "root bound" nature and unmaintained airiation. I thought maybe using a pasture would be more understandable as more people can relate to it than seed production. In a pasture situation that has had no airiation and poor drainage due to the lack of maintainence and very high root concentration, can fine clay particles fill in what remaining pores are left and slow or nearly eliminate respiration to the point that an anaerobic condition might result? During a wet time of year that is? I can airiate and make other changes both mechanically and nutritionally, but the question that still remains in my mind is whether or not, in the conditions given, anaerobic, or near to it, soil conditions can take place. ?? In my limited reading, I have the idea that anaerobic in a very basic sense is, extreme lack of oxygen intake and reduced or nearly blocked co2 expellation. Is that about right? This causes all sorts of bacteria changes etc., which is the result of no respiration. Thanks.

Reply to Erobic vs. Anaerobic soil transition?

Sat, 29 Aug 2009 05:41:22 -0500

I seriously doubt that drain tile will be economically advantageous, given what info has been provided. The key will be to extract more water via the perennial vegetation. I wouldn't blindly follow soil tests. Not on cropland, and not on pastureland either. And if you're even considering lime on pastureland, it had damned well better be true dolomite lime, or you will worsen Mg uptake and could have disastrous grass tetany in the cattle.

Reply to ? on rawson zone tillage cart/planter

Thu, 27 Aug 2009 21:35:04 -0500

That is a problem with the system. I had better luck with one pass notill so I stuck with it.

Reply to cover crops after winter wheat in wisconsin

Thu, 27 Aug 2009 21:33:34 -0500

I have tried a bunch and get the best results with www.tillageradish.com after wheat for corn or beans next year. There are many good options depending on your goals.

Reply to Erobic vs. Anaerobic soil transition?

Thu, 27 Aug 2009 21:32:26 -0500

YES, tile out the wet holes and lime and fertilize according to soil test and then tissue test the crop.

Reply to used drill

Thu, 27 Aug 2009 21:31:00 -0500

I have used haybuster, deere, great plains, tye, melroe, they are all fine. Crustbuster is pretty good if you get a 4000 model or newer. I don't have a favorite but I like Deere for Martinizing.

SM 500 Monitor For JD 1990 No-Till Drill

Thu, 27 Aug 2009 17:21:14 -0500

Does anyone out there have a SM 500 blockage only monitor on a 1990 no-till JD drill? We are having problems with the sensors getting wet and failing. Later, after they ride on my dashboard for a few days before I get John Deere to test them, then they test out okay. So at times, they are done for it; other times, I use them as troubleshooting replacements later when it rains and a few days later when we try to plant again, then for sure I'll have one or two act up again. We have tried sealants on connections, this helps alittle but not all the time. I finally complained enough on my newest 2nd machine that had the exact same problem and got the sensors all replaced with a newer version. So far, they work after a rain event. Time will tell, I really do not have much field time, yet. Norman Nelson Michigan

Reply to Erobic vs. Anaerobic soil transition?

Sun, 23 Aug 2009 09:01:45 -0500

Hi Matt. Yes, that might need addressed, but I am wondering for other reasons, if it is even possible given the little info I used as an example? If it can happen, reguardless of faults or reasons, THEN I definately want to find the reason(s) and fix it. If it is not likely possible that a soil can "go anaerobic" without surface flooding for extended periods, or if excessive root mass combined with soil makeup including fine clays, can bring on anaerobic bacteria, than I dont want to pursure it as possible reasons for the grass health failing. I'd rather pursue the more likely reasoning first. Does that make sense? There's a lot of traditional practices "here" that are extremely difficult to change. I'm using the pasture example as just that, an example. I think more folks can relate to it than to grass for seed production.

Reply to Erobic vs. Anaerobic soil transition?

Sun, 23 Aug 2009 05:19:17 -0500

The post ~ 3 minutes ago was mine. Forgot to login. ----- -- Matt Hagny, consulting agronomist since '94, founder Exapta Solutions ('99)

Erobic vs. Anaerobic soil transition?

Thu, 20 Aug 2009 08:17:03 -0500

Hi all. New guy on the board here. After reading several articles online and in a couple books I bought, I've found myself still quite confused about the transition between erobic to/from anaerobic soil. I'd like to ask an example question if I may, and see what your thoughts are. ? Let's say I have a small pasture that has been pasture for maybe 25 years. Livestock would be cattle. I'm in a 40" to near 60" annual rainfall and no airiation has ever been done to the pasture. The grass is getting quite weak and the roots are extremely bound. Its not a flood ground pasture, but the soil is higher clay content and low in the ph range. Etc., hope that gives you the idea I'm wanting to get across. Question is, even without standing water, if the soil is saturated with water and bound to capacity with roots, if we include the clay content and the cattle compaction, can this pasture possibly be in a anaerobic state? If yes, with the roots taking up near every port for respiration and the clay closing off the rest, if the water goes away for a while, can the soil return to erobic or will it mostly stay anaerbic till some sort of airiation is done? Basically, is it possible in a no-till situation in a wet climate with perennial grasses, to cause such a loss of respiration without flooding to turn soil anaerobic? Thanks.

Reply to Self-Propelled sprayer

Tue, 11 Aug 2009 16:26:16 -0500

The responses to the Survey have been very Helpful but i could still use more. If you have not all ready taken the survey please just click on the above link in the earlier post, the survey only takes 3 MINUTES its very fast. Thanks

Reply to used drill

Mon, 10 Aug 2009 14:44:14 -0500

HI Dave, On our farm we cover crop corn using a Great plains 1006NT drill that we bought used. Does an excellent job . We don't plow much of anything as we are trying to go 100 percent no-till. we just had a field of rye combined for seed and straw.We also do pasture renovations with excellent results. The machine is quite simple and rugged. Much less matienence and complex than a john Deere seeder. ours cover 10 feet and I can easily keep up with self proppelled chopper.John Kemmeren.. Bainbridge NY

used drill

Mon, 10 Aug 2009 12:45:50 -0500

My nutient management plan (dairy farm) requires me to cover crop 250/300A corn ground, both silage and grain stubble. Small grains will be used. I am strip and no-tilling all my corn now. I can't imagine tilling all that land for a cover crop so I want to get a no-till drill. Dairying being what it is this year I need to go used. Being able to use this to seed alfalfa on lightly tilled(to level out) ground would be a plus. What is the best machine and what do I need to look for?

Reply to RID tires and off row plants.

Mon, 10 Aug 2009 05:53:50 -0500

Matt Hagny of Exapta Solutions says don't use RID tires for just that reason. See http://www.exapta.com/knowledge/tipplanter.html I've never used RIDs myself.

RID tires and off row plants.

Sun, 09 Aug 2009 14:05:31 -0500

another thing i found with my test unit was corn plants out of row. i supose i can say my clay ground lifted enough to let seeds fall under the tires. i found this in planting conditons that were wet to adequate moisture. is it safe to assume that this was caused by soils with high clay content?

Reply to Self-Propelled sprayer

Wed, 05 Aug 2009 09:35:14 -0500

I translated the questionnaire into an internet survey website. Here is the site: http://www.surveymonkey.com/s.aspx?sm=cRQnfiUCo0icBkUvrzfo9g_3d_3d

Reply to not too happy with the test unit.

Wed, 29 Jul 2009 19:59:42 -0500

also, the row cleaners were the same across the whole planter. 13 wave coulters.

Reply to not too happy with the test unit.

Sun, 26 Jul 2009 21:52:40 -0500

im not sure if the combine would have been the problem, i do my best to chop and distribute residue as evenly as possible, and it does a pretty good job. if the residue was not spread or chopped, why would those two rows be replicated throughout the field, wouldnt you think it would show on other rows where the residue path "creeps" under different planter units as the field is traversed? i just dont see a "field' problem here, being on the same two rows in the entire field. thanks for the input. i guess i still need to do some more digging, eh?

Reply to not too happy with the test unit.

Thu, 23 Jul 2009 06:17:28 -0500

Yes that is true residue being enenly spread is very important. If their are just two rows dig up some plants and look what are you going to lose. Last year I planted some corn when it was wet. Had the down presure as light and had sidewall compaction. The corn roots grow in three derctions not free will. Just my two cents.

Reply to not too happy with the test unit.

Thu, 23 Jul 2009 06:17:27 -0500

Reply to not too happy with the test unit.

Wed, 22 Jul 2009 19:27:35 -0500

Ditto the fertilizer placement comment. I've seen corn like that when I had problems with a fertilizer unit. In my case it was a plugged unit. I've tried all sorts of placements from 2x2 to 0x5 and I don't see a lot of difference as long as the placement is something reasonable. I've also seen that with residue problems, either problems with a row cleaner or problems in getting the residue spread evenly behind the combine in the previous crop.

Reply to What Do You Think About Cap-And-Trade?

Wed, 22 Jul 2009 18:26:36 -0500

I approve of it in general. I wish industry, farmers, and individual consumers would all do the 'right' thing and this sort of legislation wouldn't be necessary. But we've seen time and again the free market focuses on short term gains, regardless of the long term consequences. I wish too it was part of a cohesive long term energy plan rather than a knee jerk reaction to the squawk of the climate change sky is falling crowd.

Reply to not too happy with the test unit.

Wed, 22 Jul 2009 11:01:17 -0500

wouldnt you think there would be less sidewall compaction over the regular deere wheels?

Self-Propelled sprayer

Wed, 22 Jul 2009 09:44:04 -0500

I am a student at the University of Northern Iowa. For one of my market research classes I need to collect information through the use of a questionnaire. I decided to make up the questionnaire about self propelled sprayers because my family has been in farming, and I had some previous knowledge about self propelled sprayers. The only requirements to fill out the questionnaire are as follows: own a family farm, use any brand of self propelled sprayer. If you questions about answering the questionnaire you can e-mail me at bkinze@uni.edu I translated the questionnaire into an internet survey website. Here is the site: http://www.surveymonkey.com/s.aspx?sm=cRQnfiUCo0icBkUvrzfo9g_3d_3d

Reply to not too happy with the test unit.

Tue, 21 Jul 2009 06:01:47 -0500

fert too close or too far away? ill check it this morning and see how different it is than the others, but i really dont think ill see a difference. one thing else ive noticed with that one row while cultivating.......plants growing off center of the row. could this be very well what exapta talks about with the bottom of the trench lifting allowing seeds to fall into the uplifted soil? possibly those RID wheels aint for me in wetter conditions. lighten up on the downpressure, let the weight of the boxes keep it in the ground and chop the dirt over the seed with the closers? would this be the way to combat compation issues without the RID tires? they do look cool, and it should work in thoery, just not in real life i guess. thank you for all the replies, your help with a new no tiller is greatly appreciated.getting no till to work is frustrating and addicting at the same time.

No-Till Field Days

Fri, 17 Jul 2009 17:51:39 -0500

Does anyone know of a good no-till field day that would be worth going to for someone new to no-till.

Reply to What Do You Think About Cap-And-Trade?

Thu, 16 Jul 2009 20:29:35 -0500

I have a lot of concerns of which one is increased fertilizer costs. Listing to our AG secretary saying this will be somewhat off set for no-till and keeping carbon in the soil. He stated that our farmers will be paid for doing the right thing. I do not think our government should be paying farmers or anyone for the doing the right thing.

Reply to not too happy with the test unit.

Thu, 16 Jul 2009 13:14:13 -0500

Hi, After looking at your photos, I can say that I have seen a lot of corn similar. Unfortunately it is almost always caused by improper fertilizer placement. This year being cold and wet has agravated the situation due to cold and wet and cloddy soils. I would look there first, because I cant understand why any of the improvements you made would hurt the appearance that much

Reply to not too happy with the test unit.

Mon, 13 Jul 2009 05:54:00 -0500

one thing, i ran no spring pressure on that one closer, looked like it was closing well enough after i dug some seeds.

Reply to not too happy with the test unit.

Mon, 13 Jul 2009 05:52:04 -0500

all of the disks were within 1/4 inch of each other and shimmed correctly. i change odd ones out here and there as they contact rocks and dent. the field with the most obvious problem had adequate mosture at planting depth, good conditions. in some of the wetter planting conditions, the stunted rows dont show up as much, but i still have alot of land left to scout, so well see. anyone know how to post pics here? id like everyone to see first hand. thanks for the help. would be interesting to get to the bottom of this. i really dont suspect that it is the dawn trashwheel as it looked like it did a fantastic job crumbling the soil over the trench.

not too happy with the test unit.

Sun, 12 Jul 2009 16:23:02 -0500

ive got one unit that i set up for a test unit this year, i used a dawn trash wheel for a closer that was set up and worked well. i installed a keeton seed firmer on a new seed tube, new RID tires on the gaugers, new opener disks, with my original 13 wave no till coulters. this is a deere 1750 conservation, dry fertilizer. in my bean ground, the corn on those two rows together are considerably shorter. i seen no difference in corn on corn no till or conventionally tilled ground. what part of the system caused the shorter corn?

Reply to slugs

Sun, 12 Jul 2009 07:22:06 -0500

thank you for the replies. im not a big fan of NAT, because posting and replying the thread still stays buried.

Reply to slugs

Sun, 12 Jul 2009 05:30:05 -0500

Already discussed in detail elsewhere: http://talk.newagtalk.com/forums/thread-view.asp?tid=107891&mid=764154#M764154 ----- -- Matt Hagny, consulting agronomist since '94, founder Exapta Solutions ('99)

Reply to slugs

Sat, 11 Jul 2009 16:06:15 -0500

jonothan, here in central pa, we had horrible slug issues in corn...my guess the county i'm in is 50% notill and probably 90% of the slug issues were in notill. Some people are saying it was just a perfect storm of slightly higher than normal levels of crop residue and a really crappy spring. The only observation i have for you is that the row cleaners are a must, making sure you get the seed in proper depth and slot closed is vital, and around here guys who put 30% N on with the planter seemed to avoid some or all slug damage. Not sure why yet....but your not alone...good luck you have any more questions just ask. Kyle Supplee Thompsontown, PA ktstusc-vu@hotmail.com

Reply to slugs

Sat, 11 Jul 2009 15:06:55 -0500

I have seen slug damage in corn and sorghum sudangrass also. But the crop has always outgrown the damage with good growing conditions. Early no-till corn into trashy conditions were the worst. Spike closing wheels seem to help a lot do to the fact that slugs do not fall into partially opened trench.

Reply to slugs

Sat, 11 Jul 2009 13:24:29 -0500

boy i wish this site was visited more often. ive found evidence in conventional corn also..im going to walk some neighbors fields too to see if they have it in their intensive tillage. id like a responce here folks, lets get this no-till board moving. even if you have some remote experience with slugs id like to hear them, i think next year row cleaners instead of coulters would be a bonus, for now im going to trap them to grab the threshold, then if warrented, cultivate to see if it helps. if not then bait and spray.

slugs

Fri, 10 Jul 2009 20:05:58 -0500

ive got evidence of slugs on many lower leaves in some of my earliest planted no till corn on corn. i havent seen any in no till beans on corn. the upper leaves seem fine, should i be worried? how can i combat them in the future? thanks. jonathan teele

Foliar fertilizer

Thu, 09 Jul 2009 20:39:31 -0500

I've used foliar fertilizer on soybeans for the past few years, and have had good luck. Is there any foliar fertilizer out there that i can use on milo without severely burning the leaves?

Reply to cover crops after winter wheat in wisconsin

Wed, 08 Jul 2009 15:05:34 -0500

Forage radishes are a good cover crop helping alleve compaction, scavenge extra nitrogen and helps keep weed pressure low. Planting rates are 8-12 lbs per acre. They will winter kill after a few days of high 20's temperature. I think you'll see that in your area LOL. The radishes are not a legume so they will not make nitrogen but they do capture any there and release it pretty quickly the following spring. I would look at clover, hairy vetch or a winter pea if you want a legume to make nitrogen. Do a search for "SARE Managing Cover Crops for Profitability". It is a free download publication that gives a lot of good cover crop information and covers many different species to consider. I encourage you to consider your goal with a cover crop as you consider what to plant. Also, don't get caught up in all these different species and mixes. Planting something is always better than planting nothing ecspecially in a situation where the field will lay fallow for a long period of time such as will be the case with your wheat ground. Here in Adams County PA, I've see the most successful cover crop plantings in wheat stubble start with a clean field and planted as soon as possible after harvest. Good luck. Brian

Reply to cover crops after winter wheat in wisconsin

Wed, 08 Jul 2009 12:18:28 -0500

Thanks for the information. I have heard and been thinking about the forage radishes. Can anyone tell me a seeding rate? Will they survive the winter? If so will a burn down in the spring kill them? Tim Fichtel

Reply to cover crops after winter wheat in wisconsin

Tue, 07 Jul 2009 06:10:07 -0500

Last year I planted asterian winter peas with some clover. It was the first time I tried peas and the corn looks great. The stand is good and has looked great all year. The peas didn't make the winter but some did make it. The feild was much mellowere then in years past. This year we are going to try alafala and peas. We farm in centeral wisconsin.

Reply to cover crops after winter wheat in wisconsin

Tue, 07 Jul 2009 06:10:07 -0500

What Do You Think About Cap-And-Trade?

Mon, 06 Jul 2009 14:48:11 -0500

From what you've heard about cap-and-trade recently passed by the House and headed to the Senate, what do you think is good? What do you think is bad? Do you think it will be good for the overall economy? Do you think it will be good for the farm economy? We'd appreciate a healthy debate and we'd like to include comments in a future No-Till Farmer exclusive online article. Please leave your name and hometown. Darrell Bruggink Managing Editor No-Till Farmer

cover crops after winter wheat in wisconsin

Mon, 06 Jul 2009 12:38:27 -0500

I am looking for any information on cover crops after winter wheat. we farm in south central wisconsin. How long should I wait after wheat harvest? Burn down of weeds? Liquid manure application? What crops? I am looking for something to build the soil and add nitrogen as will no till corn the next spring Thanks Tim Fichtel

Fertilizer stress

Thu, 02 Jul 2009 07:54:31 -0500

I live in central Pa. and we've had a wet June. we are finally getting nice weather. After a week of dry weather my corn is showing signs of stress, leaf curling on all fields. I placed starter 8-24-4 @ 4gal. in the row and 26gals. of 30%N, 5" off the row X 2" deep @ planting. The rest of the recommended fertilizer was broadcast pre plant. Even after showers we received this week corn is still stressed. So far we ruled out compaction and herbicide injury. Corn varies from knee high to waste high. Any thoughts on what could be happening. Would tissue samples be able to tell me anything. Paul

Warren Buffett's son a no-tiller

Sat, 27 Jun 2009 18:25:12 -0500

There was an interesting article in the Wall St Journal dtd 6-29-9 about Howard Buffett who is the son of Warren Buffett, know as the Sage of Omaha. Howard Buffett farms 800 acres in Illinois but also help small farmers in Africa. The article tells about how he teachers farmers to use no-till to improve their crop productivity. They only farm a few acres and use a back pack sprayer to kill weeds, presumably glysophate.

Reply to Aerway

Sun, 21 Jun 2009 23:02:31 -0500

When the calender rolls to June with beans yet to plant as last year and this year we plant beans in wet ground and do not close the trench. This has worked extremely well as emergence has been almost perfect in horrible conditions(mud). That seed needs air to warm up and germ in mud. Placing seed in an unclosed, damp trench does this. This is not standard procedure! Desperate times only.

Reply to Aerway

Sun, 21 Jun 2009 08:05:50 -0500

Many years ago before I became a no-till tragic I had a 24 ft. Aerway with a Phillips Prickle Chain attached. It did a pretty good job of ripping up thatched pasture, probably a little too aggressive in corn stalks.

Reply to Aerway

Sun, 21 Jun 2009 07:58:11 -0500

The best practice that we have found around "here" is the leave the corn stalks standing in the fall. Then in the spring prior to planting run a rotary harrow over the stalks and a couple days later you are ready to plant. By leaving the stalks standing we have less residue on the ground in the spring. In the spring the soil dries quicker although not entirely even due to the stalks that are on the ground from last fall. The Phillips harrow takes care of that problem by only tilling the top inch of soil, shredding a lot of the remaining stalks (which are brittle) and fluffs the residue to promote even drying. Note that we generally will have sprayed a glyphosate/2,4d burndown in the spring several weeks prior to running the harrow.

Reply to Aerway

Sat, 20 Jun 2009 12:35:48 -0500

I tried out the aerway and am going to buy one it doesn't make a matt like the turbo till does so we can run sooner. I will check the genesis II but I live in western IL and don't know of a dealer. As far as running it in the spring you definetly know you were threw it, and it does cut the stalks. You can set the aggressivenes also, also the one I tried had a harrow and rolling basket on it.

Reply to Aerway

Thu, 18 Jun 2009 07:28:45 -0500

Your tool is also called Smart till?? Do you use it in the spring, fall, or both? If you run corn stalks in the fall--how much do you think it helps your spring drying? Thanks for your info. Bob

Reply to NH3 closing disks

Thu, 18 Jun 2009 05:57:02 -0500

They are just a straight notched blade. I'm not sure what other options are available. I purchased what the rep suggested. I also got one of the new down pressure units...didn't put it on because I didn't think I needed it.

Reply to Rotary Harows

Wed, 17 Jun 2009 19:53:21 -0500

I'd recommend a Phillips rotary harrow. They track straighter on a hillside. They fold entirely from the tractor seat. They are built sturdy. The tines of the rolling harrow are swept backwards slightly. If you remove the rolling harrow and reinstall it end for end (swap ends) the tines are then swept slightly forward. In this manner it will increase the aggressiveness of the unit without going deeper into the soil. Only the top inch of soil will be tilled like a garden. Run a day or two ahead of the planter you will have a level field with consistent soil dryness.

Cheatgrass Control In Winter Wheat

Tue, 16 Jun 2009 16:31:48 -0500

We have a South Dakota no-tiller who contacted me today wanting advice on how to control cheatgrass in winter wheat. Anybody have any experience with this? Darrell Bruggink No-Till Farmer

Reply to NH3 closing disks

Mon, 15 Jun 2009 19:14:59 -0500

What kind of blades do you have on those Blu-Jets?

Reply to Aerway

Sat, 13 Jun 2009 15:38:19 -0500

I didn't mean that it does not work. For the money I would rather use my drill and a cover crop. Three years into using winter rye. It plants like soy and with my great plains drill am getting some sizing of the corn stalks. It doesn't cost you that much to run. The aerway I ran pulled harder than I would have tought. I didn't see any cutting of the stalks.

Reply to Aerway

Fri, 12 Jun 2009 20:15:41 -0500

Ed, In a past dicussion you mentioned a person in Ohio who is an expert on Aerway. Anyway to contact him?

Reply to Aerway

Fri, 12 Jun 2009 19:48:32 -0500

I'm running into the same problem. BT stalks that don't break down over the winter. I'm in central Iowa so wet soil are a problem when notilling beans with a 1790 planter with interplants. I've seen Aerway's video on their website featuring their CCT machine. Looks like it will work but I'm still skeptical. I need to do something but don't want to make a $45k mistake on something that doesn't work. Genesis Tillage makes a similar product but also has a harrow. Go to Genesistillage.com.

Reply to Aerway

Thu, 11 Jun 2009 21:04:37 -0500

It sure leveled out my tile repairs and made a decent seedbed. One notiller nearby lives by the AerWay, another the Phoenix harrow.

Reply to Aerway

Thu, 11 Jun 2009 21:03:20 -0500

So you didn't think it was effective??? What I am really interested in is someone who has observed one for multiple years, but it not selling them. I need something to ding up the stalkfield in the fall so it will dry close to bean ground. However, want to maintain the soil structure of a no till field. Hard to have things just as I want, but I am searching. Thanks

Reply to nitrogen on small grain residue

Thu, 11 Jun 2009 21:03:00 -0500

I like a gallon of corn syrup with it per acre but that adds five dollars to the cost. Ammonium sulfate is good too, if you need other dry fertilizers and micronutrients you can mix it all together and spread it. It gave my corn a beautiful color and I had very little slug damage where I should have had damage.

Reply to schlagel closing wheel

Thu, 11 Jun 2009 12:24:03 -0500

Jerry, I may know of someone interested in your Schlegel closing wheels. Could you send me your contact info. Bob Cooper rjcooper@cvalley.net

Reply to Aerway

Thu, 11 Jun 2009 09:02:05 -0500

They should let you try it out. I used one this spring and they never chared me. It will fluf the corn stalks. It didn't cut them. About a half inch of rain and you don't know you did any thing.

Aerway

Thu, 11 Jun 2009 06:22:10 -0500

I'm looking for experience with a Aerway. My problem is getting corn stalks to dry enough to plant beans in a timely manner. I'm thinking running an Aerway in the fall will greatly speed spring drying while maintaining my soil structure, decaying roots, ect. Folks that I've talked to seem to think this will speed us along...only some of them are selling this tool. Any thoughts or experience appreciated. I'm located in NC Mo. We farm mostly, fairly flat prairie type soil. Thanks

nitrogen on small grain residue

Tue, 09 Jun 2009 21:56:05 -0500

I've had some further thoughts on handling wheat/oat/barley residue prior to the following soybean crop. Again the problem is cold soils and particularly slugs. How effective is the application of 28%N in accelerating the breakdown of residue, how effective will it be in suppressing slugs, and approximately how much actual N needs to be applied in order accomplish the job? I appreciate your response since this is an option that I may use in the next couple of months. Thanks in advance. Tom Koppel in Michigan

NH3 closing disks

Sun, 07 Jun 2009 22:48:59 -0500

Who makes closing disks or coulters that can be mounted on the shanks of my NH3 toolbar? I need to close the slot.

Reply to No-Till Kills Soil

Sat, 06 Jun 2009 16:38:52 -0500

Is Mihaly still around? I have tried to contact him many times. Ed Winkle

Reply to What's The Value Of No-Till Residue That's Burned

Sat, 06 Jun 2009 16:37:11 -0500

This is true but what is the true loss? No one really knows but it would be a huge loss to me! Ed Winkle

Reply to Combine Residue Management

Sat, 06 Jun 2009 16:35:36 -0500

Have him contact Phil Needham in Kentucky, Darryl. Phillip has worked with many of these problems. I thought his talk at the NNTC was one of the best money makers I ever saw on combine residue management. Factory setup won't cut the mustard. Ed

Combine Residue Management

Thu, 04 Jun 2009 12:55:34 -0500

We have a no-tiller with an 8010 Case combine with a 40-foot draper header. He says he is not getting a consistent a pattern of the straw out of the combine. He has a straw chopper on it, but the spreader just does not get a good spread on the straw. Any suggestions? Darrell Bruggink No-Till Farmer

Reply to Sprayer Decision

Thu, 04 Jun 2009 06:24:11 -0500

I would also like to know the cheapest sprayer to operate and maintain. Rogator dominates the custom app market here. My engineer friend at Hagie has been trying to get me to come to Clarion Iowa for a tour. John Deere is not compatible with anything else but it looks good and they sell a ton of them. One of my friends bought the STS 10 Hagie for his farm of 3000 acres. It looks oversized for his operation but he is a pretty shrewd buyer. I also would like to know the ins and outs of each sprayer brand and how to size one to an operation.

Reply to What's The Value Of No-Till Residue That's Burned

Thu, 04 Jun 2009 06:14:52 -0500

That will be proven in courtrooms and the verdict will vary across the country. I quit baling straw when fertilizer got so expensive I can't afford to haul it off my fields for less money that is worth to me. I figure mine is easily worth $100 an acre but a court settlement could be ten times that amount. The main thing here is neighbors agreeing on the amount of damage without going to court. That is the last place I ever want to be. Ed

Sprayer Decision

Tue, 02 Jun 2009 16:21:17 -0500

I am a small custom applicator who covers about 5000 to 8000 acres a year. I have been running a Spra Coupe 4640 for a while now and the hours are catching up. We plan on updating this year and I was looking for information on the different sprayers out there. The 4660 is really just an update to the 4640 same tank size boom width and all. Is a 400 gallon tank and 60 foot booms worth the 104k price tag? We love how easy the coup is to move around, and how early we can get in the field with the coupe. We really wish is had a larger tank and 60/80 booms. How are the Apaches? Are the 700s worth a little more than the Coupe, is a used 500 model a good buy? Do they hold up well? What other options are out there and what opinions do people have on them? Haggi, Wilmar, Miller?? Thanks for any information.

Buffalo planter parts

Tue, 02 Jun 2009 15:41:28 -0500

I'm looking for a place that has Buffalo planter parts. It's hard to get fast service from the factory in Nebraska. There are no dealers in Indiana that I know of. The closest dealer that I know of is 200 miles to the west in Illinois.

What's The Value Of No-Till Residue That's Burned

Sun, 31 May 2009 21:43:13 -0500

A Wisconsin no-tiller called in late May with a question as to determining the value of no-till residue. He had 50 acres of corn residue catch fire from a neighbor's yard and the residue is completely gone and the soil is black. The beans that were no-tilled earlier are apparently okay since they weren't yet up out of the ground. He wants to know what dollar value to place on the residue for insurance purposes. And any suggestions growers might have for dealing with insurance adjusters. We sent him our most frequently requested No-Till Farmer article called, "Fires Scorch No-Till Profits," (pg. 10, August 1996) but we're wondering what others have seen as a value for burned-off no-till residue. Frank Lessiter

fert tubes plugging

Sat, 30 May 2009 20:44:13 -0500

well ive been using my BILs single disk fertilizer openers this spring, and like most other areas in the country, its been a cold wet spring. im wondering if there are any aftermarket companies that make the plastic portion of the tube that mounts to the opener arm. ive been having trouble with them plugging with mud, much moreso than with my double disk openers. im applying 200 lbs of dry. is there a tube that will alleveiate mud problems? if i mount them higher i have more irregular fertilizer placement, problems burying it all. has anyone made their own due to this problem, possibly out of stainless? thanks in advance for any and all help, jon teele.

Reply to Spiked closing wheels and after-planting conditions

Fri, 29 May 2009 05:48:50 -0500

It's only crusted on the surface. Below that the spiked wheels still did their job and gained you better seed contact. I wouldn't plant with out them in any conditions.

Reply to NH3 applied w/single disc opener

Thu, 28 May 2009 03:40:17 -0500

JD single disk will work, I saw some in Iowa with a drag chain and they seal well with minimum disturbance.

Reply to David Brandt's cover crop mix

Thu, 28 May 2009 03:36:38 -0500

You name it, he tries it. I am interested in his split row radish pea mix, one pound of radish in one row and 15 lbs of peas in the other row. I will try to get you information. Ed

Reply to Tire spacing on tractor

Thu, 28 May 2009 03:32:48 -0500

I wanted to apply some urea to topdress corn and found I didn't have a tractor with the right wheel spacing! Wouldn[t you know the 3/4 inch tool set is missing too!

Reply to fert. for beans

Thu, 28 May 2009 03:30:28 -0500

Of course, cheapest N in the universe. I inoculate every legume every time.

Reply to Spiked closing wheels and after-planting conditions

Thu, 28 May 2009 03:28:27 -0500

Best way to learn is put them on a couple of rows and see for yourself. Ed

Spiked closing wheels and after-planting conditions

Wed, 27 May 2009 11:01:55 -0500

I read a lot about spiked closing wheels and their advantages in closing the slot in wet conditions. We've had the situation two years in a row now with ideal planting conditions, only to be followed heavy rains, crusted soil over the seed slot, and poor emergence. What's your experience been with spiked closing wheels in those types of conditions?

Rebounders ???

Mon, 25 May 2009 13:35:39 -0500

Problem w/ Rebounders. We installed Rebounders on 6 rows of a 12 Row JD 7000 planter. We were told that they were much better than "Keeton seed firmers" in that they did not have the mud buildup problems of "Keetons" in wet sticky clay soils. We have only planted corn w/ them so far as it has been & still is wet delaying planting. We are having a lot of trouble w/ them dragging mud, seeds, trash, & stopping the opener blades from turning & then causing the entire unit to drag & string seeds all along the seed trench. Where soils have been drier they have not scattered seed, but we see no differences in seed placement or speed of emergence both in time or uniformity. Some corn is up & some is coming up, & some is an inch from being up in both the rows w/ & rows w/o Rebounders. I am sure they must work somewhere, but we have not seen it yet. Are we expecting too much or what are we doing wrong? I know it is a little wet in places, but if we wait for all the terrace channels to get dry enough, either we will never get ideal conditions to plant or it will get too dry to get anything up in large areas of field. Three ft. of "Black on top" soil & they are dragging. The other 6 rows on this planter are working fine in the same fields. We have not yet taken them off the first six rows, but something good needs to happen before too long or they will come off. Is there anything I can do, or should I just take them off & charge it as a bad experience. Thanks for any help. Grant Corley

Reply to JD half speed kit for no till drills

Wed, 20 May 2009 22:18:13 -0500

I installed one on 2 different 750 drills & they worked very well on both of them. Biggenst advantage was in soybeans. It cracked fewer beans & did do an evener job of distributing them in the row. Leave seed cup setting same as for normal gears. They tell in instruction book to get rate by going to chart & finding double what you wanted to plant & use that setting. do not double the rate of the standard chart reading for that opening. I found that mine usually was very close to 45-46% of doubled setting. In other words, go to chart where it said 100 Lbs. & multiply that by about 46% to get 46 Lbs. seeded. Do not go to 46 Lbs. & double that number on the slide setting. That should also work w/ a 1560 or later drill. I now use an 1850 air seeder in place of the 750 drill. Hope this helps you. Grant Corley

Reply to Fin on 1890 Drill

Wed, 13 May 2009 06:58:41 -0500

Yes, everyone has trouble w/ the firming and closing bushings packing full of dust/rust/etc. Solutions are to either grease more frequently, or install a seal configuration (Deere has one now; previously R-K was the only seal offered). The springs do fatigue. But realize that the Fin in transport position sets low enough that little or no spring pressure is being applied. To check for spring fatigue, buy a new one and install it to compare against. ----- -- Matt Hagny, consulting agronomist since '94, founder Exapta Solutions ('99)

?john deere greenstar

Mon, 11 May 2009 20:54:07 -0500

considering trading 2600kinze for jd1790. tractor is not currently greenstar equipped but planter has greenstar monitor less display. i have display in 4700 sprayer to use, is their anything i need other than greenstar tractor harness from monitor to planter cable. does it automaticly recognize planter and change to from spraystar to seedstar or is their other software to purchase. salesperson says cable will do it all. not currently mapping and right now just want to know what i need to get monitor hooked up and working and what additional cost would be. also any 1790 owners, how do you like the planter?

Fin on 1890 Drill

Sun, 10 May 2009 21:02:42 -0500

I am going through my JD 1890 Drill and the Fin movement is not very good. I remove and clean around the bushing, then reinstall and grease and it still will not move correctly. Has anyone else had trouble with dust and grease locking up the firming wheel bushing? Do you think that the springs would fatigue this quickly? What do you suggest to correct this problem?

JD half speed kit for no till drills

Thu, 07 May 2009 11:27:36 -0500

I would like to know if anyone has instlled the half speed kit on their drill and if they do give better seed spacing. I've installed it on the 1560and wondered if anyone has any tips on rate settings or seed cup settings.

Reply to Spiked Closing Wheel - Which Side?

Wed, 06 May 2009 08:25:17 -0500

I think someone stated in a previous article that they put on the side of the fertilizer. I haven't tried yet but it seems to me that the side of the fertilizer , the ground would be loosened and would move easier with rubber wheel. that by placing spike wheel on other side might work better. I shall find out soon as it stops raining

Spiked Closing Wheel - Which Side?

Tue, 05 May 2009 13:58:38 -0500

If you replace one standard closing wheel with a spiked model, should you place it on the same side or the opposite side of your 2x2 fertilizer coulter? Does it matter?

Helicopter seeding in southern, IL

Thu, 30 Apr 2009 16:14:49 -0500

Are there any helicopter cover crop seeders in sothern, IL (Effingham area)

Reply to Martin spaded closers on a white 5100

Tue, 28 Apr 2009 20:46:45 -0500

Don't know why i thought you were from pa don...that's the eventual plan here as well...just getting along with the white til i can justify a new planter...either a kinze or 7240 or 1780 deere....

Reply to Martin spaded closers on a white 5100

Tue, 28 Apr 2009 10:25:34 -0500

We are in cental Wisconsin. We do not use our white planter any more do to the lack of a dealer. Never had put the drag chains on the white but we like them on our kinze. best of luck

Reply to Martin spaded closers on a white 5100

Mon, 27 Apr 2009 21:08:48 -0500

always thought it'd be nice to find some different options for a white but they seem very limited...you like yours in general donald v? by the way your in pa too correct...? Kyle Supplee, Thompsontwon, Juniata county, PA

Yetter spike colsing wheels

Mon, 27 Apr 2009 08:30:12 -0500

I was wondering if anybody has tried the spike closing wheels from yetter? We were looking at the ones to replace the rubber ones by just changing the wheels. They are much less expensive than Martins but I dont want to buy if they dont work well. Thanks

Reply to Martin spaded closers on a white 5100

Mon, 27 Apr 2009 08:15:50 -0500

On our white we had the martin row cleaners that were fixed and the martin spade closeing wheel. They are just like you are discribing. Also thought you should know that the bolt that holds the closing wheel on will break in rocky feilds.

Reply to Tire spacing on tractor

Mon, 27 Apr 2009 07:48:19 -0500

The tractor is a 3294. Thanks for the advice. Seems everyone has a different idea on whether tire tracks in planting row are a big deal. Old timers don't think it makes a difference as they drive on their 15 inch spacing for both corm and beans. It seems to make sense to do all you can in todays environment to do all you can. Thanks again.

Reply to Martin spaded closers on a white 5100

Sun, 26 Apr 2009 22:05:26 -0500

did you guys run the specific kind i'm describing or did you get the S & I adapter to go to a kinze or deere style? just a little leery of having too much pressure left on rubber wheel and undoing everything the spikes just did with smearing and compaction...also am running yetter sharktooth row cleaners on a frame mount coulter so corn stalks aren't a problem...generally either end up out of the way or in the transmission chain lol

Reply to Concord Air Drill Questions

Sun, 26 Apr 2009 20:29:07 -0500

i have a 60 ft concord air drill i am not sure but i might be able to answer some questions

TALL WHEAT

Sun, 26 Apr 2009 20:16:35 -0500

here on the high plains of colorado we usually plant semi dwarf wheat. but in recent years we don`t have enough straw residue so i was thinking of going back to tall varieties like scout or sage but having trouble finding them. if anyone knows where i might find some i would appreciate it . wind erosion has been a big issue with us also.thanks!

Martin spaded closers on a white 5100

Sat, 25 Apr 2009 19:02:07 -0500

Was going to hold off on adding spade closer for another year and just buy adapter to switch to a kinze style with drag chain but soggy conditions have made me think about throwing them on this year. For anybody not familiar with this planter, there's a single rubber closing wheel that the spades will sort of wrap around somewhat like a row cleaner. Very similar to the small diameter spikes on a CIH setup. Any one have any input good or bad on this , or have used this set up?

Reply to no-till row markers

Fri, 24 Apr 2009 06:57:34 -0500

where woud one find photographs of the twin disk openers? theres none on the website thanks, jonathan

Reply to Spra-Coupe engine

Fri, 24 Apr 2009 06:54:12 -0500

it may help to know what the motor is in the machine, as at first i was thinking it was a diesel. now that i know it is a gas engine, your symptoms sound very much like a governer problem. i would also suspect fuel and ignition, even timing. get a carb kit, inline fuel filter, make sure you have a good flow of fuel to the carb. new ignition componets, how do the plugs look? your timing may very well be off a bit. i would find someone in the know about that particular engine, possibly in that particular application. good luck, jonathan

Reply to Spra-Coupe engine

Thu, 23 Apr 2009 20:44:57 -0500

We got someone to look at ours just to see if the fuel is the problem. Some things that we were told to change or fix were the following. We changed the cap and rotor, tightened up both the foot cable and the throttle cable, replaced the spark plugs, and we tore apart the spring throttle mechanism and put some loosen all on it which helped immensely. Once we fixed all of these things, we figured out that it stayed at an even speed and had plenty of power. Even climbing hills. Now that this is fixed we are very pleased with our machine. Hopefully this helps you.

Reply to Spra-Coupe engine

Thu, 23 Apr 2009 13:01:02 -0500

When you figure out what the problem is, I would appreciate a little help also. I recently purchased a 216, which has the same engine. It idles rather rough, hunts around for a speed to settle in on, but never quite gets there, also, but when you crack the throttle, it gets w/ the program & pulls quite well. Would be interested in what you find out to get it to run right. Great little machine tho, as far as we can see so far. Grant Corley

Tire spacing on tractor

Mon, 20 Apr 2009 12:07:18 -0500

Anyone have any ideas of tractor tire spacing. I have been getting conflicting advice on whether it is all that important to keep the tractor tires out of the planting rows for compaction. Some say it makes no difference. Run 16 pounds on inside duals and 8 pounds on outer. I have a case front wheel assist, with the tires brought in to 60 inches for a 30 in planter I cannot turn. I bought spacers for the front to take them out to 90 inches but now I'm hearing that I will be taking out seals and putting to much pressure on the spindles.

Spra-Coupe engine

Sat, 18 Apr 2009 19:46:01 -0500

Hi, I just recently purchased a 1996 Spra-Coupe Melroe 220. I towed it home and started it up and noticed that it is putting alot. It wouldn't idle at a constant RPM, i took it out into the field and noticed that it was under power. One second i would be going 14.5MPH then i would be traveling 10MPH. I was just wondering if this is how the 220 usually operates or if it just needs a tune up. I would greatly appreciate more information on this situation. Thanks

David Brandt's cover crop mix

Tue, 14 Apr 2009 08:09:11 -0500

Inthe April issue of the No-Till Farmer (page 14 ) ,approximately how many pounds per acre does David use of Austrian Winter peas ,oilseed radish and hairy vetch into his wheat stubble ? Does he chop the stubble down ? How does he plant or seed it down?

Reply to keetons vs seed-lok

Tue, 14 Apr 2009 06:24:23 -0500

If you had seeds bunched over the course of 100 ft or so, I would guess there was a blockage that temporarily occured in the seed tube, or a major problem with the singulator mechanism. However, the mud on the bottom of the Keeton is pretty much eliminated by additional pressure on the Keeton. Our Mojo Wire does this. For more commentary, see our March newsletter: http://exapta.com/news/nws_mar09.pdf best regards, ----- -- Matt Hagny, consulting agronomist since '94, founder Exapta Solutions ('99)

Reply to deutz-allis 385 planter

Sat, 11 Apr 2009 05:18:00 -0500

They do pretty well, just watch your planter weight, especially on the rear of the planter. I am not sure if Martin closing wheels are available but I would adapt them if possible. I would talk to the Martin people and Dave Moeller in Keota Iowa to nail down the setup. You have the basics of a good planter.

Reply to need info on cover crop seeding rates

Sat, 11 Apr 2009 05:15:10 -0500

We overseed cover crops because we don't plant them at the ideal time or have the ideal equipment to do it with. Cover crop seed should be cheap to entice farmers to do it. Contact Steve Groff at www.cedarmeadowfarm.com for the latest in seeding rates and results.

Reply to fert. for beans

Sat, 11 Apr 2009 05:12:32 -0500

You need a good soil test to know the answer, backed up with a tissue test. Ca should be high or very high, p needs to be in balance with zinc and k needs to be balanced with boron. Sulfur and Manganese should be adequate. Contact me if you have any questions, I have spent a lifetime learning this.

Reply to single -vs- double fert openers

Sat, 11 Apr 2009 05:09:46 -0500

The JD single disk opener is about the best opener there is out there. It has the least disturbance for notill. If you have any trouble with it, contact Dave Moeller at Moeller Ag Service in Keota Iowa. He knows it inide out. I would trade.

Reply to start up no-till feild day

Sat, 11 Apr 2009 05:07:44 -0500

The easiest way is to choose your best field or fields. Field should be leveled, well drained and properly fertilized. Most fields I deal with are lacking on all three but especially on fertility. A good soil test balanced properly is rare in Ohio. The Martin planter setup is the easiest system to learn with less failures. Study it and mimic it to a Tee.

Reply to Spra-Coupe

Tue, 07 Apr 2009 21:58:34 -0500

Thanks Guys for all the help. Finally found one @ the right price. It has a little age on it, but is very low houred for its. Traced it back thru last 4 owners & all say it was lo hours when they had & none used it on many acres. Getting it all cleaned up up & ready to go to field. Will know more about it after a few days of use. It is a model 216 which I think is only a little lower clearance version of a 220. It is a 3 wheeler. I think that it is @ least a start. Thanks again, Grant

No-Till Oats

Tue, 07 Apr 2009 18:32:55 -0500

I am looking information on no-till oats, does anyone know where I could find information? I live in North East Ohio and no one in my area no-tills their oats.

Reply to soil bacteria

Sun, 05 Apr 2009 06:34:27 -0500

David, In your case, probably 'yes.' -- By far the most effective way of accelerating decomposition is to create a living canopy over the dead mulch. For instance, a brassica cover crop seeded after wheat harvest.

Reply to soil bacteria

Sat, 04 Apr 2009 06:02:09 -0500

Matt, For those of us at 45* North, do you feel the same applies. In eastern Ontario for example we only have 7 mos. frost free (ground froze) on average. Soil never gets warm enough (usually) to plant corn until the end of April.

Reply to soil bacteria

Sat, 04 Apr 2009 01:30:42 -0500

Saprophytic fungi are the ones that live on detritus and cause decomposition (they are also weak pathogens at times). They tend to do fine without any encouragement. You won't do a whole lot to influence the C:N balance in any particular stubble or mulch -- the microbes do this by themselves, by consuming the carbohydrates and releasing carbon dioxide. Supplying more N as fertilizer speeds the process by narrowing the C:N. Of course, legumes and most broadleaf crops have narrow C:N anyway. Generally, in the warmer regions, we have trouble keeping enough mulch on the soil surface -- I don't want the microbes to break down the residues any faster! ----- -- Matt Hagny, consulting agronomist since '94, founder Exapta Solutions ('99)

Reply to soil bacteria

Fri, 03 Apr 2009 19:47:14 -0500

I'm in Australia and we often find the native saprophitic fungi are in the soil and just need encouraging - often a mollassess/humate mix does the trick. Soil is no different to the rumen of a cow in that we actually feed the bugs then the energy and nutrients released by the bugs actually nourish the cow (or soil). The trick is getting the C:N balance right. Bacteria use roughly 10 x more N to consume stubble etc so encourage the native fungi. Hope this helps.

Reply to no-till row markers

Wed, 25 Mar 2009 17:14:58 -0500

im anxious to see how farmerGPS works for picking p the "lost" marker. every little bit helps. i had also thought of mouting a light down low to cast a shadow, but it would only work at night and close up anyway.

Reply to Covercropping/ arid areas

Wed, 25 Mar 2009 05:36:57 -0500

This article on Gabe Brown at Bismark, ND, might be a help: http://www.notill.org/LE_Articles/V5N3A1_Brown.pdf -- Not all his "cover crops" are grazed. The effects of cocktails/mixtures in the drought of '06 were remarkable. In Montana, I would expect that cover crops would be most appropriate to replace a chemfallow (summerfallow). On wet years, there might be some advantages after wheat harvest for fields going to corn the following year. I doubt a Concord shank-type opener would do very good with these small-seeded crops. best regards, ========== Matt Hagny consulting agronomist since '94, founder Exapta Solutions ('99)

Reply to no-till row markers

Tue, 24 Mar 2009 10:42:09 -0500

I can't see the marks without tearing up the field. We need a cheap GPS solution. I am going to try a Cruizer Light Bar with antenna for $1200. At least it is within a foot!

Reply to Covercropping/ arid areas

Tue, 24 Mar 2009 10:38:17 -0500

We all need to visit Dwayne Beck at the Dakota Lakes Research Farm. He can show us it works.

Reply to residue mats

Tue, 24 Mar 2009 10:36:35 -0500

Send some down here Chuck! We are dry enough to plant. They key to ponded areas is remove them for the future. Tile drain those spots and spread a ton of gypsum across them, really clears up ponded areas. Plenty of gypsum available in your area. We don't have any now.

Reply to Seeking New 14-Foot Drill

Tue, 24 Mar 2009 10:33:57 -0500

There are drills for sale everywhere in Ohio. Had a hard time getting a trade on a 15 ft 750, have seen them less than $10,000 but up to $16,000. Other brands normally cheaper. Saw plenty of drills the past year in your category for $5,000-$7000. I shop and trade on Tractor House. Good place to start. http://www.tractorhouse.com/listings/Manufacturers.aspx?catid=1122&etid=1&guid=E0C374D9C40547BDA895E5E9421136F2

Reply to pop up

Mon, 23 Mar 2009 19:46:59 -0500

hi every body...completely different direction but still on topic....my fertilizer dealer is very much against pop up on seed with keetons....he thinks its a waste of money versus a dry starter in row like i'm using now...but this seems to buck the trends of established no-tillers....and i have heard good things about the availability of the on seed popup...also...on heavily dairy manured fields with moderate high p and k is a pop up with p and k still necessary or just n...my crop scout and i say yes but just looking for input

Reply to fert. for beans

Mon, 23 Mar 2009 19:40:48 -0500

marlyn, i guess it would depend alot on soil tests of p, and k and whether the ground had beans before it went continuous corn. Some guys around here are finding virgin beans benefit from some manure or N to keep them going until nodules form and bacteria get to work. I've been trying to apply a light app. of manure on my beans. Mostly because they are double cropped with a small grain silage and we daily haul and that time of year is the only ground open....my crop scout claims the best beans he sees are on manured acres so fertilizer would do the same....

Concord Air Drill Questions

Mon, 23 Mar 2009 08:13:32 -0500

Anybody familiar with a Concord 3212 air drill? I have a few issues with mine, and being a new owner, I am looking for some answers.

Reply to Covercropping/ arid areas

Mon, 23 Mar 2009 08:08:12 -0500

Greg, I am in se Montana and I share your interest and concerns. We are typically even a little drier than you are (13" 100 year average). I've talked with nrcs about cover cropping and they're all for it, but I'm not sure about it. If we seed the cover crop in August behind the combine, there would be absolutely no moisture to seed into, and I have my doubts as to whether the old concord air drill would even go into the ground. Secondly, on a normal summer weather pattern, the seed may lay there for 60 days w/o any measureable precip. on it and wouldn't actually germinate and sprout until fall freezing season in upon us. At $20/acre for these cover crop cocktail mixes, I have my doubts as to whether cover crops would be a feasible idea in this environment. I'm going to try a few acres this year with grazing in mind, but it will be very few until I see results. The lady running the nrcs in Baker, MT is very knowledgeable on cover cropping, and she got a couple producers to do some over there this year. I'll be checking back with her to see how that is working outl It's hard to find fellow drylanders on this forum. I've found most producers on this forum are from the midwest, where their dryland will grow corn and soybeans. We are in a little different world, and it's nice to exchange ideas w/in my own environment.

Reply to residue mats

Fri, 20 Mar 2009 16:16:37 -0500

lol if one of the kids come home to late at nite give them a pitchfork in the morning lol good luck

Reply to oats and peas

Fri, 20 Mar 2009 16:10:33 -0500

i have jd 750 nt thanks for input

Reply to no-till row markers

Thu, 19 Mar 2009 05:08:47 -0500

do you have photographs of your markers? ill just follow the old rows also, but where theyre handy is point and headrows.

single -vs- double fert openers

Thu, 19 Mar 2009 05:03:15 -0500

BIL wants to trade his single disk openers from his 7000 for my double disks on my 1750 conservation. hes 100% conventional, and soon ill be 100% no-till. see any problems with this trade? this year ill be planting about 50 acres conventionally, mainly due to a wet harvest in that field. thanks jonathan teele

RID, how long have they been available?

Thu, 19 Mar 2009 04:58:42 -0500

im asking as i can get an 800 cyclo dirt cheap. ill be buying it for the toolbar, but will it have the RID tires? id like to set one row up martin style for a year and compare for my soils. thanks jonathan teele

residue mats

Wed, 18 Mar 2009 07:26:07 -0500

We had 6 inches of rain a couple weeks ago (NE IN) resulting in thick mats of residue around ponded areas, often 6 inches or more of densely matted soybean residue or corn stalks. Any suggestions on how to tear that up or get rid of it so we can plant through those areas? Some places we can burn it, but we also have muck soils where we can't burn.

Reply to Quackgrass

Sun, 15 Mar 2009 21:37:36 -0500

plant rr corn and spray max rate this should work great cause it sounds like roundup has never been used on this land good luck

oats and peas

Sun, 15 Mar 2009 21:32:26 -0500

has anybody notilled this in standing cornstalks I plan to drill 150#ac in mid april and cut and bale for feed late july or aug then drill winter rye in will this work or not thank for any input live in sw mn if need to know

fert. for beans

Sun, 15 Mar 2009 12:56:59 -0500

well it pay to put fert. 15 40 40 before i notill drilled beans iv got a feild that been corn on corn for 15 yrs but plan to put beans this yr iv cut back on cows so i dont need the corn in past its been corn combine chop bale spread munare thank for input and thoughts

Quackgrass

Thu, 12 Mar 2009 09:46:53 -0500

Two days ago, I rented my neighbors field. It hasn't been in crops for 2 years. He would disk the old corn field to keep the weeds down. Its sandy loam with lots of quackgrass. I just took the soil sample in, but my question is what should I use for pre and post herbicide application. I will be no-tilling corn. I'm located in SW Mich. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Reply to Kinze single disc fert opener beside the row.

Sun, 08 Mar 2009 09:14:05 -0500

Anonymous: To the contrary. Exapta works closely with many producers across North America as well as other continents, and I've personally inspected no-till seeding and stand establishment with a huge variety of openers and attachments on several continents and the gamut of soil types. The basics of what is required for rapid germination and maximum stand establishment is the same everywhere, regardless of crop or soil type. I try to constantly check and re-check what I think I know. Frankly I'm continually amazed at how much universality there is on this topic.

Seeking New 14-Foot Drill

Sat, 07 Mar 2009 08:12:52 -0600

I'm looking for a used no-till drill and don't know where to start. Only need a 14-footer. Can you point me in the right direction? Posted on behalf of Tebbie Heny at sheep@tctwest.net

Reply to Cover Crops and Strip Till

Fri, 06 Mar 2009 07:33:10 -0600

Don't be afraid to try. Maybe one field would be best to start. I know of a 2000 ac farm in ryegrass every year in Central Indiana, I don't know how he gets it done. Winterkill is a problem but you still have roots and cover. He plants right into it one pass. The radishes are the hot topic though and I think you will see more of them Any cover is better than none but hard to get it planted and most don't want to mess with it. It is the next net profit advancement in farming.

Reply to lime/calcium apllications

Fri, 06 Mar 2009 07:29:53 -0600

Yes it will. One ton of high calcium lime is a good thumb rule here every three years. Since that doesn't get done, we apply two tons and once in awhile 3 tons in one application. We never incorporate. Dolomitic lime will increase pH almost twice as fast as calcitic lime. These are soil basics observed and adhered to by farmers in the know.

Reply to soil bacteria

Fri, 06 Mar 2009 07:27:18 -0600

If you get your soil in balance, it will have the healthier soil bacteria active in a natural occurence. Fence rows are a good comparison. I would seek out someone who knows how to help you get your soil in balance. One lecture from someone like Dwayne Beck or Jill Clapperton will set you in the right direction. This is why the NNTC is so important.

Reply to Which new drill should I buy

Fri, 06 Mar 2009 07:24:45 -0600

I pull a 15 footer with a 70 hp tractor. It is all it wants and 105 hp would be much better. For resale, you can't beat a Deere. I don't like the cutting angle but it works. If you have to overseed with most drills and that is true with the Deere. The Krause is the heaviest made but needs the soil disruptors on the Sunflower. You can probably plant successfully at higher speeds with better depth control with the Sunflower If I chose the Deere I would want a used one and updated with the Martin system, then you have a superior drill.

JD 7200 rear hitch

Mon, 02 Mar 2009 21:27:54 -0600

Has anybody put a rear hitch on a JD7200 front fold flex frame 12rn? If so any how to info or pics would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Reply to Which new drill should I buy

Sun, 01 Mar 2009 21:35:35 -0600

Go JD and you can pull the 15' with that tractor. I pull 15' with 80 hp not MFD with dry fert. Get caster wheels and the 3 Pt. carrier. That will allow some weight to be transfered to the tractor.

Which new drill should I buy

Sun, 01 Mar 2009 15:12:44 -0600

Been looking at drills and came down to Krause 5250, jd 1590 and Sunflower 9412. The Krause is higher priced so I think it will be between the JD and the sunflower. 15' would be too big for me (I have a 105 hp tractor) so if I got a 1590 it would be a 10', however I liked the sunflower because it offered a 12.5' which I think would be a very good size for me. Please help me make a decision

Reply to soil bacteria

Thu, 26 Feb 2009 08:32:54 -0600

There is several thousand pounds per acre of carbon in crop residues (and cover crops). Spraying on something that contains a pound per acre of C would be trivial in comparison. There are plenty of organisms already in your soil that decompose plant residues. They have been there for millenia. No need to add them. ----- -- Matt Hagny, consulting agronomist since '94, founder Exapta Solutions ('99)

Reply to lime/calcium apllications

Mon, 23 Feb 2009 06:35:26 -0600

Many nutrients will be *less* available following lime application. These include Zn, Cu, Mn, and B. As for P, it will more available following liming if the pH is below 5.6. But there is no magic pH value where all nutrients have maximum availability. Liming to a pH of 7 has been largely discredited. ----- -- Matt Hagny, consulting agronomist since '94, founder Exapta Solutions ('99)

28-0-0 on plante

Sun, 22 Feb 2009 22:27:11 -0600

Has anyone tried the totally tubular or Schaffert disk for putting 28 down. Schaffert runs a disc but Totally Tubular has tubes shooting down behind closing wheels. The tubular system looks simple but you would have to drag hoses in wind. How many gallons max with either system. Tell me your experiences Thanks Bob

Best pop-up fertilizer system

Sat, 21 Feb 2009 22:42:42 -0600

I,m setting up a JD 1770NT with in furrow liquid fertilizer (10-34-0) and am wondering which systems work the best. Any help would be appreciated.

Best pop-up fertilizer manifold

Sat, 21 Feb 2009 22:36:59 -0600

What is the best liquid (10-34-0) pump and manifold system to use to put down 5 gal/ac of pop-up in furrow. Setting up a new 1770NT with pop-up and 2x2.

Reply to Kinze single disc fert opener beside the row.

Sat, 21 Feb 2009 02:08:24 -0600

Ed Winkle wrote: "Have been using the Martin system since 1995. Can't find a better system. Just do exactly what they say." -- And when will we be allowed to think for ourselves? Will you guys remember to tell us when you reach different conclusions, or shall we assume that this system will *never* be surpassed? From what I hear, plenty of people are finding better performance from setups other than the dogma espoused by Ed. (Egad!!) ----- -- Matt Hagny, consulting agronomist since '94, founder Exapta Solutions ('99)

Reply to JD 750 Drilling Sunflowers/ settings

Sat, 21 Feb 2009 01:53:32 -0600

Sunflowers w/ a drill will suffer significant yield losses versus using a planter. http://exapta.com/news/nws_AccuracySeedPlacement_jan09.pdf Use a planter, even if it means renting one or hiring one. best regards, ----- -- Matt Hagny, consulting agronomist since '94, founder Exapta Solutions ('99)

start up no-till feild day

Fri, 20 Feb 2009 17:26:59 -0600

We are planning a no-till field day in clark county WI on july 10 2009. I was thinking of covering some of the different attachments for planters. Like the martin and yetter row cleaners for example. We are also thinking about some vertical tillage tools like the aerwayor what the dealers will bring. What are the important things that should be talked about to inform them of how to transtion to a reduced tillage practice?

SFI products in starter

Tue, 17 Feb 2009 14:26:48 -0600

My question is has anyone used the SFI products in a dry starter blend. My current fert mix is 150#/ acre of 10-12-28-6s-.5zn. placed 2" along side the seed furrow in bean stubble. and 120# NH3 preplant I'm looking to use this mix on corn on corn, but replace the NH3 with AMS preplant and split the rest of my N needs between the starter and sidedress 28%. where is the best value with these products, and or in what form is it best applied in.

JD 750 Drilling Sunflowers/ settings

Tue, 17 Feb 2009 00:06:43 -0600

I'm going to double crop sunflowers after wheat this summer and wondering if anyone has used a 750 to do this? #3 Seed most likely. Any suggestions, 7.5" versus 15", Seed setting . I don't have a reducer sprocket as of yet, just bought the machine @ a dealer last fall and excited to use it this season. Will appreciate any suggestions. D.B.

Reply to 52' BLUMHART PICKUP SPRAYER FOR SALE

Mon, 16 Feb 2009 11:00:22 -0600

There was a guy looking for one at the notill conference. You can advertize it for free at http://talk.newagtalk.com/forums/forum-view.asp?fid=8

Reply to Cover crops planted with corn planter

Mon, 16 Feb 2009 10:57:59 -0600

Dave Brandt will be explaining this at the Conservation Tillage Conference in Ada Ohio next week. Ed

Reply to 2009 Conference - What Did you Learn

Mon, 16 Feb 2009 10:56:25 -0600

I was writng as fast as I could on that one Brian. Super good information, same he has been telling me for many years. I think we need more on the subject at Des Moines as so much wall board will not be manufactured this year and we should have a better shot at getting gypsum. I would apply it on every acre if I could get it. Great way to START notilling too. Looks like that and cover crops are mandatory for better soil and higher yields.

Reply to pre emerge herbicide

Mon, 16 Feb 2009 10:53:04 -0600

I used Sonic or Authority First in heavy wheat residue last year and it worked great. May have to go a little heavier on the rate but not much. Better get it bought, they are about out.

Reply to pop up

Mon, 16 Feb 2009 10:50:33 -0600

Hey if you are getting along well, why change? I like 28 and sulfur to the side and a little popup in furrow. To each his own! Soil tests and crop removal helped me get where I am. Ed Winkle www.hymark.blogspot.com

Reply to Kinze Planter

Mon, 16 Feb 2009 10:46:52 -0600

I have had no problems running mixtures through the Keeton tube. Just use the Martin system as they recommend. They have all the kinks worked out and Phil Needham is an excellent reference and travels the country on these topics as I do. Ed Winkle

Reply to Kinze single disc fert opener beside the row.

Mon, 16 Feb 2009 10:43:41 -0600

Have been using the Martin system since 1995. Can't find a better system. Just do exactly what they say. Farmers are hesitant on the cost and change of two spike closing wheels. No one has convinced me one is better than two. Just do it and plant early. You will be glad you did. Ed Winkle

Reply to Kinze Planter

Fri, 13 Feb 2009 19:52:29 -0600

Richard, what are you using for a pump and how are you driving it?

Kinze single disc fert opener beside the row.

Fri, 13 Feb 2009 19:50:21 -0600

Currently using Kinze planter with no-till coulters and no row cleaners and would like to put liquid fert beside the row. Looked at Martins setup at the farm show yesterday. They favor taking off the coulter, putting on the floating row cleaners and using a single disc opener behind the row cleaner. Does that work? seems like many feel the coulter does more harm than good. Are single or double spike closing wheels in style. Alot of new planters on the lot are only using one.

pop up

Mon, 09 Feb 2009 15:46:43 -0600

I've been using 5 gal of 28% as popup with a seed firmer. A few guys say I'm playing with fire. How much 28 can be applied in trench with seed firmer and also what are your thought on 10-34-0 any info would help.

Reply to Spra-Coupe

Mon, 09 Feb 2009 11:55:55 -0600

Grant simpsonfarm.com in Hays KS has a 1994 w/ 60' hydralic boom listed for 15,000. Larry

Reply to Spra-Coupe

Sat, 07 Feb 2009 19:36:33 -0600

Thank You for the responses. Still looking for the "right one" & am wondering what a good one should cost. I am seeing prices all over the map for machines that look very similar & have nearly same amount of hrs. & age on them. Thanks, Grant

Reply to corn head performance

Sat, 07 Feb 2009 19:32:24 -0600

If you are referring to my post as shredding the stalks, My corn head roller modification crushes them, but does not shred them to pieces. They are still fastened to the short standing stalk. When you plant todays high yielding BT hybrids, you have to do something w/ the stalks to get them to break down a little faster." They certainly do not blow or wash away, but the fluted coulters on the planter can sure do a better job of slicing them when they have rotted down a little bit. It is not an appearance issue, it is so the coulters can do their job w/ less downpressure, thus causing less wear & tear on the coulters & planter units, as well as tractor & planter tires. Grant Corley

Reply to corn head performance

Thu, 05 Feb 2009 06:38:48 -0600

Why do you want the corn stalks shredded? If it is lying on the soil surface, it slows springtime warming of the soil, plus the seeder must either cut thru it or move it to plant the next crop. Standing stalks are much better -- all you need then is a knock-down bar on the planter or drill, and secure the wires and hydraulic lines. But it plants so much nicer. Also, standing stalks won't float away or blow away.

Reply to 2009 Conference - What Did you Learn

Mon, 02 Feb 2009 12:43:45 -0600

I was fascinated by the discussion on gypsum and how it affects the soil's physical and chemical properties. Good job Frank, Darrell and your crew!

Reply to corn head performance

Tue, 27 Jan 2009 16:27:00 -0600

I can attest to the Calmer cornhead roll modifications for John Deere. We built a 12 row 20" corn this past summer & done the Calmer roller modifications. It totally changed the way it works & I would not go back to original for any reason. It breaks up the stalk a lot better, if you build the roller flutes up high enough, but the best thing is that if you remove the 2 flutes as they suggest it will save a tremendous amount of corn that normally goes over the front of the cornhead. It will spread the wear on the rollers & deck plates as well while doing a better job of saving ears. We do not even use ear saver flaps anymore & that helps feed in down corn better. It improves several factors & I see no down side. A total "win-win" answer to the problem of all the wear occurring just behind the spirals & flipping corn over the front of the row units. Everyone that saw it work agreed that it is a great improvement. Grant

Reply to 2009 Conference - What Did you Learn

Tue, 27 Jan 2009 11:23:28 -0600

It was easy to feel the optimism among the speakers and the attendees at the conference. I learned some new ideas on fertilizer programs and placement as well as utilizing cover crops. These ideas I can use on my farm. I had a good time, especially in the round table discussions .Everyone was willing to share ideas on successes and failures they had experienced.

Reply to Spra-Coupe

Mon, 26 Jan 2009 21:36:15 -0600

Good, Thank You for your response. I am needing a lightweight SP Sprayer to run in 20" rows in both corn & beans for post emergence spraying of about 1000 acres per yr. I have a 500 gallon 50-65' boom semi-mount sprayer that we do our burndown work w/ but w/ 20.8 rubber on the tractor, it is a tight fit in 20" rows on even very small plants. We will be using it on no-til work nearly all the time, & some yrs for fungicide work in wheat. We have a good nurse tank setup already. I am not sure whether I want a 3 or 4 wheel setup. Any advice on this decision would certainly be appreciated. Thanks again for any help or advice that anyone cares to share. Grant

Reply to deutz-allis 385 planter

Sun, 25 Jan 2009 11:42:14 -0600

It likes medium rounds! Other than that it is a good notill planter! Well built and handles residue pretty well for its age. Inexpensive way to notill!

Reply to Cover Crops and Strip Till

Sun, 25 Jan 2009 11:40:19 -0600

In northern Illinois I would think you would be challenged adopting cover crops to strip tillage. Aerial application before Labor Day would seem to be a must in my mind. There increased cost and questionable emergence is a given. If you have summer harvest acres like wheat or barley or oats it would be a cinch. The strips of Tillage Radish with Austrian Peas at Dave Brandt's farm in Lancaster, Ohio are exciting. 600 lbs of N, 20 lbs of P and 250 lbs of K and others given off is tremendous. Lots of work needs to be done. You might contact Joel Gruver at Western Illinois University for advice. There is 2 days on cover crops at the Conservation Tillage Conference in Ada Ohio Feb. 26 and 27. A google search will easily pull that up.

Reply to 2009 Conference - What Did you Learn

Sun, 25 Jan 2009 11:34:51 -0600

It was an HONOR to speak in the midst of Neal Kinsey, Dr. Mulvaey and David Hula. Good speakers with a great message. Neal and Dr. Norton verified and added to what I have learned. I came home with new enthusiasm. The Rulon's and Marion Calmer and Jeff Martin gave me much to ponder and add to my operation. They were right on about farm management, P and K returns, the value of no-till and how to simply use strip till to get tillers converted to less tillage. Best conference yet, good job Darrell and staff! Ed Winkle

Reply to lime/calcium apllications

Sun, 25 Jan 2009 11:31:17 -0600

Yes, most notillers just put the lime on. Dolomitic raises pH 1.7 times quicker than calcitic. Get the pH up near 7.0 for maximum nutrient release. That works well for me. The finer the grind the quicker it works. Watch pH sensitive pesticides like ALS inhibitors.

Reply to Very Low Ph-Best Way to Correct

Sun, 25 Jan 2009 11:28:50 -0600

If someone is paying the bill they don't want the cost spread out, you would be lucky to get it done once. You can do that and plant to beans and I wouldn't be too concerned. If you are planting corn, a ton now would be good or pellet lime and the lime put on at harvest. Tissue test and watch for all of the comments above! Good luck! Ed

Reply to swiching from 36 to 30" rows

Sun, 25 Jan 2009 11:25:29 -0600

Corn after corn? Slow down and watch what you are doing. Stop and get off the planter and check depth of each row, same as any planter. Row cleaners should chew through the rotten corn stalks but keep them high enough to not tangle in the old root balls. I don't think you will have much problem.

Cover Crops and Strip Till

Sat, 24 Jan 2009 20:17:45 -0600

I've been doing some research on the use of cover crops and like what I've learned about their benefits. I'm seriously considering the adoption this practice next year and getting away from conventional tillage on most, if not all of my northern IN corn acres. My biggest concern is cold soil temperatures at planting time. Has anyone out there tried strip tillage in a standing cover crop as a means of applying fertilizer and warming up the seed bed? Seems like a possible way of getting the benefits of a cover crop without sacrificing the soil temperature issue. Planting could also be easier if some of the fertilizer was already applied. Any thoughts about this idea would be appreciated.

NH3 culter on a no till drill

Sat, 24 Jan 2009 17:58:55 -0600

Does anybody have experience with putting a no till colter on an 1860 drill to put down NH3 when seeding wheat in seven and half inch spacing? I would like to use a colter such as the wako NTO to put NH3 on 15 inch spacing as I seed wheat. I like the 1895 drill but I do not like 10 inch spacing for spring wheat. Thank you!

Reply to Spra-Coupe

Sat, 24 Jan 2009 16:46:28 -0600

220 spray coupes work great for small gallonage applications (5-10 gal.). If you decide to put on much fertilizer at much more than 25-50#s you end up filling all the time. I drove one for a former employer then bought it when he retired. If they are in good mechanical shape they will run a long time. Don't know if you are looking at a three or four wheel model but the four wheel probably rides better but the three wheel turns tighter. Make sure it has hydraulic booms, power steering and the Ravin 440 monitor. The 75hp engine can be short on power if you are in soft conventional till ground other wise it does ok. Can spray at 12-13 mph easily in open stubble fields. If it's a three wheel the front wheel bushings and pins in the suspension need to be changed or at least checked around 700 hrs. I have since moved up to the 4440 but like the Spray Coupes because of their light weight and economic performance and simple design. Can get in the field earlier than my neighbors with thier big rigs. Larry

swiching from 36 to 30" rows

Sat, 24 Jan 2009 11:51:26 -0600

Looking for advise on making the switch from 36 to 30" rows for corn on corn in no-till. has anyone had experience with this? my biggest question is the few rows that will be running down the same rows as last year. I have a JD planter with hd down pressure and floating martin row cleaners. any help is greatly appreciated. thanks, Bryan

switching to 30

Sat, 24 Jan 2009 11:46:10 -0600

Spra-Coupe

Thu, 22 Jan 2009 14:14:36 -0600

We are interested in a Self-propelled sprayer & have been looking @ 220 Spra-Coupes. How well do they work & what do you look for as problems? Are they a good rig to invest in? Thanks Grant Corley

2009 Conference - What Did you Learn

Thu, 22 Jan 2009 11:10:44 -0600

Darrell Bruggink with No-Till Farmer here. First of all, to those of you who attended the 2009 National No-Tillage Conference in Indianapolis, thank you! Our attendance of 855 was just 19 shy of an all-time record! You helped make it a great event. I'd like to know one or two things that you picked up from the conference that you thought might really help you going into this 2009 production season, or at least might cause you to make some changes to your no-till operation. Please be sure to leave your name and hometown. Thanks in advance for sharing. Darrell Bruggink Managing Editor/Publisher

Reply to Very Low Ph-Best Way to Correct

Thu, 22 Jan 2009 05:19:03 -0600

Lime is mobile in the soil, moving down at the rate of several inches per year, depending on rainfall, texture, etc. Tillage moves it somewhat faster initially, but at a high cost. 3 - 4 tons in one application may be a bit much for reasons having nothing to do w/ pH stratification. Instead, I would be concerned about marginally low levels of soil Zn, Cu, Mn, or B becoming truly deficient as pH rises. You might want to catch one of my workshops sometime: http://www.agronomypro.com/crophealth08.html ----- -- Matt Hagny, consulting agronomist since '94, founder Exapta Solutions ('99)

Very Low Ph-Best Way to Correct

Wed, 21 Jan 2009 08:29:50 -0600

Rented a farm with Ph in the 5.3-5.4 average. Has a fertility clause for 6.3-as did the previous tenant who never applied any lime. Landlord is working with previous tenant to require him to pay for lime-we figure somewhere in the neighborhood of 4 tons. This farm has been no-tilled for 10+ years. 80% corn for 2009 so I am less worried about his year than next when it will be 80% beans. Am concerned that just dumping 3 or 4 ton of lime on top will cause stratification and still have low Ph at lower and good on top. I would like to space the application out over 2 or 3 years-and then maybe spread some pelletized or liquid lime (at my cost) ahead of beans next fall. I plan to continue no-tilling the farm. But landlord has said he would allow shallow field cultivation if it would help. Couple questions: 1) How would you address this? 2) If I put down liquid or pelletized in fall 09 will it do enough to help 2010 beans? Paul

Reply to corn on corn no-till

Mon, 19 Jan 2009 18:40:17 -0600

Until this year, we would just fall apply NH3 in chopped corn stalks and then plant without being indexed to the NH3 knife (this has been relativley flat ground and ths year will be 5th year no-till corn). We've moved to RTK this year and we'll see how it works out. The yields on the former method were very good, but I hope for better with new system. In response to your question, we had some class B/C soil with a 2-8% slope that was mis-sprayed with corn herbicide coming out of corn (supposed to go to beans). We planted the corn between the old rows (on a contour) and came back with 28% side dress. It turned out to be some of our best corn. I'm leery of being able to side dress in a timely fashion, but this approach sure worked well. Corn after corn no-till works well for us. It is like most things. You have to want to do it to be able to make it work.

Reply to in-line no-till ripper

Mon, 19 Jan 2009 18:33:13 -0600

A few years ago I ask this same question to Ray Rawson and he told me that since i had already been no tilling for some time it would not help. After 4 years of no till you have so many worm channels for the roots to follow and to move rain down that it would not pay. You would be damaging the soil structure that you have built up. John

in-line no-till ripper

Sun, 18 Jan 2009 15:15:55 -0600

I was wondering if running something like a dmi econo till or some sort of no-till in line ripper would be worth the investment, would it help with compaction or help with root zone?Any advice on what kind to run.

lime/calcium apllications

Sun, 18 Jan 2009 15:07:56 -0600

I've been no-tilling for about ten years.I've had some concerns with lime application on amounts more than a ton to the acre and how well it goes in the ground. I've also been doing some research on using a calcium base lime verses regular dolametic lime it seems the calcium base doesn't make your ph go crazy like the other i was wondering if broadcasting this will incorparate itself good enough without tillage.

corn on corn no-till

Thu, 15 Jan 2009 09:06:06 -0600

I have been no tilling corn bean rotation, chisle plowing for continous corn, I want to grow more corn on corn but don't have the time to work all of it, plus I don't want my soils being worked. I have strip tilled my bean stubble and it works real well but on the hills my erosion is worse than if I plowed it, the strips will wash right out. So now I am going to use 28% and straight no till. Can anyone tell me what I need to make all this work? I need more corn on corn(my beans are never real good, my corn on corn has been some of my best corn) UAN is so volitle when sprayed over top and not sure how to put on with planter(volume) I have combo units on my planter and keeton Y not split it seed firmers. Looks to me like no tiling corn into corn can be a disaster waiting to happen.

Reply to Kinze Planter

Wed, 14 Jan 2009 12:05:08 -0600

We run a kinze 3000 with infurrow fertalizer. It has worked great. A neibor has the tubes in front of the seed tube. They like to fill up with mud and dirt if it gets a little tacky. With my system we run five gallons of 9-18-9 with good results.

Reply to Kinze Planter

Wed, 14 Jan 2009 02:27:09 -0600

The wrap-around Keeton has a rather small space for the liquid tubes to pass thru the mounting assembly -- can be a bit of a PITA during installation. If installed correctly, they are relatively trouble-free. The Totally Tubular method drops the liquid ahead of the Keeton, which may result in more build-up of gunk on it. Please give our Thompson wheel consideration for your spoked closing wheel needs: http://exapta.com/products/thompson.html We have many very happy customers, many of whom had run competitor spoked closing wheels in the past and prefer the T-wheel. Running 2 spoked closing wheels per row is ideal, to break up the sidewall on both sides. Best regards, ----- -- Matt Hagny, consulting agronomist since '94, founder Exapta Solutions ('99)

Reply to Kinze Planter

Mon, 12 Jan 2009 06:23:35 -0600

Jim, we have set our 2300 kinze up with the Martin system, we only run 3 gal. fert through keetons so no problem. We run 45 gal through single straight blade with injecter tube 4 inches to the side. works great for us Dick

Reply to no-till row markers

Fri, 09 Jan 2009 15:57:56 -0600

I have a little experience with the orthman twin disc markers. They worked well enough that I fabricated something similar for my next planter.

Kinze Planter

Fri, 09 Jan 2009 15:30:53 -0600

I just purchased a Kinze 2700 planter. It is equiped with in furrow fertilizer and the Kinze combo unit coulter trash wheel setup. It currently has one spading closing wheel and one cast iron. It appears to have case ih gauge wheel tires (did kinze make an RID gauge tire?) I plan to add keatons, am considering a totally tubular setup for fertilizer placement, and am leaning toward martin spaders and drag chain. Has anyone had trouble putting liquid through keatons? Seems I read a few posts where guys had trouble, that's why I'm thinking tubulars. Any other tips, tricks, or suggestions? How badly does it need the setback kits on every other row? It is wider than I like for transport... Thanks guys

Reply to My dad wants to deep till

Fri, 09 Jan 2009 08:47:46 -0600

I had the same situation about four years ago.(I'm 24) I had done alot of studying on no till, and definately thought it was the way to go. But my dad was VERY sceptical. But he had seen how much i had been looking into no till, and how many classes i had been to. So i asked him to trust me, and let me try it out for a few years. So he let me give it a shot on 160 acres. Now, all of our acres are continuous no till and he says he'll never go back! He has never seen our ground be so productive. My advice is to get him No-till farmer magazine and let him read the articles. Thats a great magazine.

pre emerge herbicide

Fri, 09 Jan 2009 08:31:10 -0600

I have been no tilling for about four years, and have been using a pre- for soybeans every year with good results. I had pretty bare ground back then so spraying the pre down to the soil wasn't a problem. But now that i'm getting more residue it seems that the effectiveness of the pre is going down, i'm guessing because i'm not penetrating through the residue very well to get to the soil. I have been putting it down with my spring burndown with ten gallons of water. i could probably get it to the soil better with twenty gallons, but then i couldn't combine it with my burndown because of how much water i would be using. I'd rather not make an extra trip. I was just wondering if anybody else was using pre emerge herbicides in heavier residue. Thanks

Reply to soys following winter wheat

Thu, 08 Jan 2009 09:30:31 -0600

Strips could help but I make them with the planter at planting with the row cleaners. I don't use any coulter like the Martin system does. This works well for me and many, you will have to find what works for you!

Reply to soys following winter wheat

Wed, 07 Jan 2009 09:34:11 -0600

Thomas, in your situation I get the most benefit by planting soybeans early with my corn planter which has row cleaners, use a good treated seed and try to get the seed off to a good start. Otherwise I am planting or drilling too late for maximum yield and still could have slug problems. Ed Winkle

Reply to the FIN

Wed, 07 Jan 2009 09:31:32 -0600

I am not sure what the answer is for you Stanley but I would recommend you contact Phil Needham at Needham Ag. http://www.needhamag.com/ Ed Winkle

the FIN

Thu, 01 Jan 2009 21:23:43 -0600

Has anyone had experience with the FIN replacing the seed firming wheel on JD no-till drills. I am wanting to put them on a 1590 to apply liquid fertilizer in furrow. thanks Stan

Fertilizer mixed into row?

Mon, 29 Dec 2008 16:48:38 -0600

I am planning on making a Rawson 3 blade striptill rig behind my aircart to mix dry fert into the row. I am concerned about how much fert I can mix in just ahead of planting in the spring. Dawn has a rig that is doing just what I want and the sales man says they have no problems but I am still skeptical about burning the seed or small roots. Any insight would be appreciated. John

Reply to soys following winter wheat

Mon, 22 Dec 2008 15:45:08 -0600

Tom, the best pellet we find is a product called Metarex which is very small and gives plenty of baits to the square metre and is rain-fast, they cost about A$10 per kg. Spreading is usually done with quad-bike fitted with applicator. Regards, Greg.

Reply to soys following winter wheat

Mon, 22 Dec 2008 05:13:40 -0600

We have slug problems here as well in Tasmania with lots of different crops and we use plenty of slug pellets and that appears to be the best cure. Generally 5 kg/ha is enough but sometimes they need a double dose. I have read where some farmers in the UK use up to 30 kg/ha. Regards, Greg.

soys following winter wheat

Sun, 21 Dec 2008 21:26:06 -0600

I have trouble with slugs in my no till soybean seeding when sowing into wheat residue. Besides sowing into a cooler,wetter seedbed I have tremendous trouble with garden slugs. To date the only effective method I have found is to either run a disc over the stubble ground after harvest, or bale and remove the straw after harvest. I am not to fond of either of these options as one disturbs the soil surface and harms the environment I am trying to create, and the other sells fertility off my farm. Is there a better solution to this problem, something that will preserve my stand from the awful damage coused by slugs? Your help with this would be greatly appreciated. Tom K.

Reply to Greenvue

Sat, 20 Dec 2008 12:16:03 -0600

Thank you. I love farming. I could never get it out of my blood so my love for art and science led me to notill. My learning magnified by teaching for 31 years led to this. Together we can all help each other, that is just the way it is done. So many have helped me. Since I first got on the Internet in 1995 my life has changed for the good. I am willing to share and thank those who share with me. Don't forget a good soil test in each crop rotation and follow it up with a tissue test to monitor uptake and your progress. Old science still applicable today. Today's high input prices have made us all look harder. Best wishes to you and all in the New Year. Ed Winkle edwinkle@verizon.net

Reply to 750 seed drop

Thu, 18 Dec 2008 17:21:04 -0600

I won't put it back to 15 feet. If I do that, I would sell it and change out to something different. 15 feet is too blooming small even if all I have is 300 acres. I am looking for a replacement for it though in 5 to 10 years. My dad still uses his JD LZ hoe drill he bought new in 1963. It is a 6 foot 3 section unit. The nice thing is we only put $20 in new parts each year on it, if that. I want a unit that is good for no till and conventional till, prefer 30 feet. I was looking at a Great Plains but unsure right now.

Reply to Brazilian Planters

Thu, 18 Dec 2008 11:46:34 -0600

I have a friend in Brazil who can probably direct you to the information you are seeking. Email me at edwinkle@verizon.net and I will try to get your information. Ed Winkle

Reply to fertilizer openers for 1200 c/ih planter

Thu, 18 Dec 2008 11:44:31 -0600

I would second that idea. www.moelleragservice.com Ed

Reply to 750 seed drop

Thu, 18 Dec 2008 11:43:05 -0600

I can't help you with the modification Brent but I can tell you any wear adds up quickly. Most run them worn out or nearly worn out. It really pays to keep the boots in top notch condition as the drill is doing all your tillage and seeding in one pass. You might contact David Moeller at Moeller Ag Service in Keota Iowa. I haven't seen anything David couldn't make work or work better unless you really need to take the box back to original. Ed

Reply to JD 750 Liquid Fert.

Thu, 18 Dec 2008 07:31:01 -0600

We have a home made unit. It is pretty simple to do, and the cost is very small. We run a 5/16 tube in row for ours. I can email photos of how to set it up if you like. bharzman@ruraltel.net I have had this setup for 2 years now, and been very happy brent

750 seed drop

Thu, 18 Dec 2008 07:23:20 -0600

I have a 750 that has been extended to 20 feet. The outside 2 rows give me problems each year. I have tried about everything on this unit. I had bungie cords wrapped around the tube and then to the spring of the unit in front......no avail. This past year I went extreme. I lifted the whole box up 8 inches. That helped it, but still will get a clogged tube. It is not from dirt at the bottom, it is from the angle that the seed tube has to go to get to the bottom. I have several photos, that I can send to someone for advise. Mother Deere told me, that these units were not made to be extended out to 20 feet, and now I see why. We run apx 7.5 inch spacings on it, with in row liquid fertilizer. Also, how much wear is too much for the seed boots? We do apx 200 to 300 acres a year no till wheat. The other half is normal till. thanks for the help.

Rotary Harows

Tue, 16 Dec 2008 21:08:56 -0600

We are interested in adding a Phillips or Phoenix harrow to our operation. Would appreciate opinions on each brand and advantages of one over the other. We will probably purchase a used model, 45 foot or so.

Reply to no-till row markers

Sun, 14 Dec 2008 12:42:19 -0600

I am talking about corn stalks in a strip till setup. Has anyone tried Orthman Twin Disc Markers and have you had success following the markers?

Reply to Row Cleaners Reduce Soil Erosion

Sun, 14 Dec 2008 10:00:11 -0600

Our DVD shows how to set row cleaners, along with actual photos and video of what it looks like in the field: http://exapta.com/products/dvd.html Best regards, ----- -- Matt Hagny, consulting agronomist since '94, founder Exapta Solutions ('99)

Reply to 20 inch corn

Sat, 13 Dec 2008 12:16:17 -0600

Marion Calmer has a lot of experience at speaks each year at the NNTC sponsored by Lessiter. I would contact him at Alpha Illinois or do a search and you will find his website. An extension worked from Wisconsin gave a good talk on his narrow rows this week at the Ohio NoTill Conference but I don't have his name handy. I have another friend in western Ohio on 15 inch rows. You have to change your thinking a little with narrow rows but it is not hard to do. The benefit is quick canopy.

Reply to Haybuster Coulters & Disc

Sat, 13 Dec 2008 12:13:25 -0600

Not sure if ads like yours are welcome here or not but would be interested in your contact info. Email me at edwinkle@verizon.net

Reply to what is no-till

Sat, 13 Dec 2008 12:11:04 -0600

Amen! Been fighting this since the first White 5100 we rented in 1976. Almost gave up on notill until I met Paul Reed on the Internet around 95 and started mofifying the planter like his, he started in 92. Now it is the Martin system that is sold. One pass strip till is a better way to describe it. The aussies laugh at us with their limited disturbance slot planting. No wonder notill corn acres are so low in the states... Continuous notill is best for me and a lot of farmers I consider better than me... Ed Winkle

Reply to Soybeans and grass control

Sat, 13 Dec 2008 12:07:54 -0600

Fescue, orchard and the like are persistent. Which grasses Brian? I have had the best luck with a heavy rate of glyphosate in a tank of pH 5.0 or less water. We use citric acid to reduce water pH and AMS to reduce mineral effect. Knock em dead the first trip if at all possible, then clean it up.

Reply to Row Cleaners Reduce Soil Erosion

Sat, 13 Dec 2008 12:05:10 -0600

Fixed have less disturbance for me if I get off the tractor and adjust them. I better be digging every row of the planter too to see if I am getting every row the same depth and the same amount of crumbly soil on top of each furrow. You wouldn't believe the variation between farms and planters and operators.

Reply to Red Clover

Sat, 13 Dec 2008 12:03:04 -0600

Interesting thread! Thanks all for the good discussion! For some reason I am not troubled by slugs and I think it is just dry enough here to help the situation. But I really think healthy soil has a lot to do with it along with timely planting, harvesting, scouting and pest management. As far as southern Ohio is David we can plant 107 day corn and expect good dry down almost every time regardless of planting date which was late this year. I prefer the rugged 112 day hybrids that yield more but they also bring more water to the bin to deal with. I have planted 118 day corn with great yields but again the moisture content. Beans, 3.5-3.7 is early and best yields from 4.0-4.5. Ed

Reply to Which cover crops work best ahead of notill soybeans?

Wed, 10 Dec 2008 12:46:05 -0600

from the test going on in our area, we're going to be using Barley next year for our cover crop of choice. Apparently you get the same root mass as annual rye, but with less risk of hight growth in the spring if you can't kill due to wet weather.

no-till row markers

Sun, 07 Dec 2008 10:05:23 -0600

I don't farm enough acres to justify auto-steer GPS. I have trouble following planter/strip till markers in high residue fields. Any solutions?

what is no-till

Fri, 05 Dec 2008 09:46:07 -0600

I resently whent to a central Wisconsin forage council meeting that had a speeker from UW-Madison. He presented some information from the plot on no-till, strip-till and chisel plowing. What I realy had a problem with is what they call no-till. They are defing no-till as just taking the planter out to the feild from the show room floor and planting. no-till with no modifications. That a planter with row cleaners is considerd a strip-till planter and a drill that has a colter in front of the double disc openers is also strip-till. The planter that they use has row cleaners on it but the disengage them when they do no-till research. To me it almost souds like they whant "no-till" to fail. Plus now I don't know if I am a no-tiller as I have thought for the past eighteen years or a shallow strip tiller.

Soybeans and grass control

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 13:05:16 -0600

Producer having problems with grass control in old hay fields going into soybeans. Beans are RR, but even after three passes with roundup the old hay keeps coming through. Anyone have some good advice on other herbs to take out this old established grass?

Reply to Red Clover

Mon, 01 Dec 2008 12:47:19 -0600

I've seen/heard of slug problems in varying no-till situations with and without cover crops. Certainly the residue from cover crops make a good habitat for slugs and they will most likely be a problem for you from time to time. No one has come up with a really good, cost effective way to deal with them that I've heard about. On top of that they always seems to hit a field or section of field that is visable from the road! No one here that I know of has seen/experienced a bad enough slug problem to scrap the whole notion of no-till and cover crops yet. Expect them and adjust your system if they become a problem.

Kinze 2300 16 Row

Sun, 30 Nov 2008 16:12:58 -0600

Does anyone have any advice on putting a rear hitch on a Kinze 2300 16 Row to pull a 1,000 to 2,000 gallon tank. I think I have some good ideas but wanted to know if anyone has done it.

Reply to dry starter fert. on corn?

Sat, 29 Nov 2008 05:45:50 -0600

Yes, any granular that flows like granular insecticide would be easy to apply. 5 gallons of 18-46-0 is safe in liguid so do the conversion. I am sure the planter could be modified to apply the fertilizer granule you have available also.

Reply to Cover crops planted with corn planter

Sat, 29 Nov 2008 05:42:40 -0600

Contact your dealer or aftermarket dealers on plates for small seeds like you are wanting to plant. I am sure it can be done! Ed Winkle

Reply to No-till wheat in 15" rows

Sat, 29 Nov 2008 05:40:43 -0600

I have seen Deere and Kinze planted wheat in 15 inch rows. There must be a plate. I can put you in contact with a farmer who does this if you email me at edwinkle@verizon.net Ed Winkle

Reply to best no-till options

Sat, 29 Nov 2008 05:38:06 -0600

I would also recommend the Martin system. It has the closest effect to your strip tilling system with one pass. I also can be reached at edwinkle@verizon.net if you have questions. Ed Winkle

Cover crops planted with corn planter

Wed, 26 Nov 2008 20:28:01 -0600

In the Dec 08 no-till farmer they talk about using a White planter to plant oilseed radishes and winter peas. Are John Deere planters capable of planting the small seeds. Also looking at maybe planting wheat with the John Deere planter. Is anyone currently doing this or know where I could find more information on it?

Reply to Red Clover

Mon, 24 Nov 2008 12:11:46 -0600

I wanted to make an addition to this discussion. Speaking with an agronomist this week, he was concerned about slugs in the red clover eating my corn once it's planted. Has anyone encountered this issue? I haven't seen any talk of this in my research.

Reply to Red Clover

Mon, 17 Nov 2008 11:22:05 -0600

So far a 2.4D and roundup mix or gramoxone has killed the clover. Well, let me clarify that a little, no one has complained that they didn't get a good kill with these products. I haven't been in contact with every single farmer that has used clover cover crops, but, I am pretty sure I'd have heard if they didn't kill it! An active healthy plant should take in the herbicide of choice very well. Don't beleive it? Just try it on a small field or a portion of the field OR grow some RR corn and experiment in that. At least with the RR corn you can spray again if you don't kill it. Farmers here have voiced the same concern you have and it appears to be an unfounded fear. I've ssen some very healthy and very tall clover (18") get sprayed and corn no-tilled with no clover regrowth (or at least any that caused a problem). The resdiue that it puts down and the moisture that can be retained is really, really incredible. However, the only way to be convinced though is to do it yourself.

Reply to Red Clover

Fri, 14 Nov 2008 15:04:23 -0600

Hello Joel, to respond to your question, the reason I burned down the clover in the fall, I was worried about a wet spring. My concern was that if I was delayed in the spring to do my burndown, and the clover really took hold and started to grow, would I have a harder time killing it? That was mainly my primary worry. We used a Roundup/ 2-4-D mix to kill it. It did a great job, and entire stand is crispy. My research tell me it'll hold its Nitrogen, living or dead. I still spread Potash this fall, maybe I really didn't need to. Brian, with regards to your post, we have the same issue in SW Ontario Canada, with a wet spring. If the clover really starts to grow, do you find a tougher time killing it in the spring? Thanks for the responses everyone, much appreciated. South Western Ontario climate seems very similar Ohio's probably a little milder. We're in the 3200 heat unit range, with clay loam soils.

Reply to Red Clover

Thu, 13 Nov 2008 09:31:49 -0600

We have several growers using clover (red or crimson) as a cover crop. They are planting into wheat stubble or corn silage stubble in the fall/late summer. The clovers are then burned down in the following spring prior to corn planting. Are they getting additional N from the clover? YES. How much? A little harder to answer. We are probably getting between 40 and 80 lbs of Nitrogen. A couple of things "here" (South Central PA), a cover crop growing in the spring is preferred in order to "grow out" the excess moisture we have. We have folks planting into the cover live or crispy dead. Neither has experienced any real problems into the clover. In fact, we've had only positve responses to planting into it. The issue this past spring was moisture. For those that killed w/ RU well ahead of planting (7-10 days), rains after kill severly hampered the ability for the soil to dry out for planting. That dead residue really held the moisture and planting was severly delayed. I've encouraged most to consider spraying at planting or using gramoxone for a quicker kill and a smaller window for weather to cause problems. All are very happy with the results of cover crops in general and specifically clover has become the species of choice for fields going into corn. I fully expect cover cropping to become a necessity "here" to making no-till work.

Reply to Red Clover

Wed, 12 Nov 2008 14:38:45 -0600

Coincidence? Providence? I was just thinking about this very thing. Yesterday I asked a seed supplier what he'd recommend as an N-fixing cover crop. He recommended red clover broadcast in late winter (so there would still be some freeze/thaw action to work the seed into the ground). I asked if there was a danger it would grow too tall and interfere with wheat harvest, and he said only if the wheat stand is thin. I guess I would rather do it early rather than wait till after harvest due to concerns about adequate moisture in mid summer. Also, I want to plant corn about mid April, so I wouldn't have as much time for spring growth the following year before a burndown. David, did you burn down now to control volunteer wheat and prevent a green bridge for mites to neighboring wheat fields? Or why not let it go until next spring and burn down several weeks ahead of planting? Would the same thing work with hairy vetch? In order to let it (clover or vetch) grow through the winter, would it be advisable to spray with some sort of grass herbicide in early September to kill any volunteer wheat and prevent the green bridge effect? BTW, my location is central Kansas. Scott or David, did you have any problems planting through the residue? Do you use row cleaners?

Red Clover

Tue, 11 Nov 2008 15:25:38 -0600

I'm trying something new for next year. I've seeded red clover in my wheat field last winter, and let it grow all summer. This fall, I've performed a burndown, and will no till corn next spring. From what I've researched, legumes (red clover) provide nitrogen for the following crop, especially when has not been tilled into the soil. Is anyone currently doing this? What has been the success rate?

Reply to What are your top tips for notill soybeans?

Wed, 05 Nov 2008 07:23:41 -0600

First Mark I would start by tissue testing those fields and look for uptake balance. P needs to be in balance with Zn in corn and K needs to be in balance with Mn and B in legumes. They all need to be in balance over the years in all crops and most new tissue tests show inconsistencies. I would try some new varieties, I am always looking for that next good variety or two that works best on my farm. Foliar feeding with a complete liquid fertilizer plus fungicide paid here this year, made up to 10 bu difference, not so much in poorer fields that have bigger issues. You might talk to the guys at AgraWarehouse in Spencerville Indiana, they have some good results in your area. If you notill early, look at seed treatments. If you don't, they may not pay. Make sure you have your weeds controlled, that is the number one issue on some local farms. Sounds like you are on the right path but a few adjustments could pay good dividends. Anyone can feel free to email me questions or answers or pictures at edwinkle@verizon.net Ed

Reply to No-till planter ?

Sat, 01 Nov 2008 19:24:07 -0500

Has anyone tried Phil Needhams new rolling seed firmer in soybeans? www.needhamag.com Ed Winkle

Which cover crops work best ahead of notill soybeans?

Sat, 01 Nov 2008 19:18:18 -0500

Annual rye? Cereal Rye? Oats? Wheat? Others? What do you use and how do you do it? If you haven't tried them, why not? If you have, how have you improved your soybean profits? Thanks, Ed Winkle

What are your top tips for notill soybeans?

Sat, 01 Nov 2008 19:10:11 -0500

Drainage Fertility pH weed control insect control disease control Do you use treated seed? Do you inoculate? Do you fertilize for soybeans? Do you foliar feed? Tell me what you do and what you are considering doing or would like to know more about more profitable notill soybeans. Thanks, Ed Winkle

What is your preferred notill setup for soybeans?

Sat, 01 Nov 2008 19:07:23 -0500

Drill, planter, coulter, no coulter, modifications? What would you like to know to improve your notill soybean planting equipment that you don't already know? Do you feel some tillage is needed in heavy ground or do you notill directly into anything and everything? Thanks, Ed Winkle

need info on cover crop seeding rates

Thu, 23 Oct 2008 20:42:55 -0500

putting out cover crop test strips on the following- hairy vetch, australian winter peas, sweet clover,and turnips. located in so. ky and will be notill drilled after doublecrop soybean harvest app. last week of oct-1st nov. will be killed down middle of mar in the spring and notilled in corn. what is the min seeding rates of each should be used? any other info or suggestions would be welcomed.

Reply to In furrow fertilizer

Thu, 23 Oct 2008 11:49:39 -0500

I am using Agro culture Liquid Fertilizer and we put don't all our N, P and K down with the planter. Our P is 9-24-3 and K is 2-1-6 and we put down 3 gal of p and 7 gal of K down in row. We don't spread anything else. I think that is the best way to go.. They are a sponsor so go on there website and learn more. I am you will like it

My dad wants to deep till

Thu, 23 Oct 2008 11:40:09 -0500

I live in Northeast Iowa and a lot of people around me don't no-till. We had a lot of rains this spring with the flood here. So the ground is really hard. This is my first year no-tilling but i would like to do it the rest of my life and i am only 23 so that is hopefully a long time. So how do i make my dad go no-till and tell him not to deep till and let the soil do its thing???

Which Legume Should I Use?

Thu, 23 Oct 2008 09:30:28 -0500

Recently, I've begun planting Japanese millet in June into corn stubble as a feed source to pasture my dairy cattle. I'd like to know if there is a legume I could add with the millet that would be a great additional source of feed for cows, but also might help fix some nitrogen that would be beneficial for the millet or a following crop? Wally St. Onge, Little Falls, Minn.

Drilling Cover Crop After A Freeze

Thu, 23 Oct 2008 09:26:52 -0500

I'm located in central Minnesota and am considering no-till drilling a cover crop into corn stubble even though we've already experienced a freeze. Is that feasible? I'd like to get some roots established and growing, but don't know if it's too late. Any thoughts on what cover crops would work best in this situation? Wally St. Onge, Little Falls, Minn.

opener for heavy soil

Sun, 19 Oct 2008 16:58:37 -0500

I'm a farmer in Sweden and are looking for a double-shoot paired row opener witch can perform a god job in heavy soils. Could anyone give me a tip or tell me about own experiences. I have read a lot about the Anderson opener, but will it work in my soil witch often is moistly ?

winter rye and spring manure

Thu, 16 Oct 2008 10:14:13 -0500

What is the best way to control winter rye after the manure is spread in the spring. How hard is it to plant corn into after the manure has been applied.

fertilizer openers for 1200 c/ih planter

Sat, 11 Oct 2008 18:39:32 -0500

I purchased a C/IH 1200 planter and have ran it one year, they sold me a fertilizer attachment that replaces one of the closing discs with a straight one and injects the fertilizer in the slot made by the straight disc. I am not happy and was wondering what others no-tilling with the C/IH planters were using to put their fertilizer on with. We are putting a fertilizer with a fairly high salt content so in furrow is not an option.

Corn Silage and JD 7550 forage harvester

Mon, 06 Oct 2008 14:03:12 -0500

Hi All Im about to start up a dairy farm in South Africa. Im looking at a John Deere forage harvester model 7550, with a Kemper 455 head. The corn will be irrigated, and planted at 45cm / 18 inches. Normal seed yields would be around 10 tonnes / hectare. Unfortunately I cant tell you yet how many tonnes of silage I'll get / hectare! Can anyone tell me roughly how many hectares / acres or tonnes per hour I would be able to harvest with this combination? Even a rough guesstimate would be great to point me in the right direction. I need to work out how many 30m3 trailers I'll need to transport the silage back to the yard. Thanks all Best Ryan

Reply to fall chemicals for spring wheat after soybeans

Fri, 26 Sep 2008 17:41:42 -0500

My choice would be glyphosphate and 2,4-D. I'm surprised you have thistles and giant rags in soybeans. Mark

fall chemicals for spring wheat after soybeans

Thu, 25 Sep 2008 15:09:00 -0500

What would be a good fall burndown for thistles, giant ragweed on soybean ground this fall with spring wheat planted next spring with the possibility of alfalfa underseeded?

Reply to accurate NH3 controller

Wed, 24 Sep 2008 20:52:46 -0500

Thanks for the link. It sounds like a good system, based on what I read there. However, I didn't have in mind to spend $12,000 to $18,000..... Maybe I better re-think exactly what I'm needing. Mark

accurate NH3 controller

Sun, 21 Sep 2008 22:18:55 -0500

I recently bought my own toolbar to apply NH3, instead of waiting in line for the fertilizer dealer to have one available. I want to look into buying some kind of accurate rate controller. I don't have any of the fancy electronics now, (GPS, light bar, radar, etc. ). Most of those electronic terms I don't even know what they are. I just want to accurately control my rate, not do variable rate. Any body have any input? Mark

Reply to 750 closing wheel rebuild/redesign

Thu, 18 Sep 2008 04:42:48 -0500

In all seriousness, the Thompson wheel solves the bearing problem on the 50-series drills. Have a look on the Testimonials page of the Exapta site, or look up Jon Hagen's posts on AgTalk -- he has been running T-wheels for about 6 yrs now on his pair of 750 drills. Ed, when you're ready to upgrade to Exapta's Thompson wheel, give us a call !

Reply to 750 closing wheel rebuild/redesign

Wed, 17 Sep 2008 15:32:22 -0500

Patrick has an excellent question and I agree. If anyone has experience with the modification I would be interested to learn. We use the Martin spiked closing wheel instead of the Deere closing wheel and it is just as hard on the bearing as the standard wheel. Ed Winkle

Case IH 1250

Tue, 09 Sep 2008 15:35:18 -0500

I recently purchase a Case IH 1250 16RN planter and was curious if anyone on the board had any experience no-tilling with the newer models. We had a 950 12RN vertical fold with combo units, seed firmers and spiked closing discs (JS Ag). This one will have Yetter floating shark-tooth managers and the JS closing discs. I'm told the seed firmers are not available for the newer models. I would really hate to go to the field with out them. Does anyone know where to find them? We are also doing VRA seeding based on soil type and installing point-row clutches on every 4th row. Does anyone have experience with either of these. And for my final question (this post turned out more log winded than i would have liked), this planter has pneumatic down pressure and I wonder if anyone had any suggestion or recommendation for using them.

Reply to 750 closing wheel rebuild/redesign

Sun, 07 Sep 2008 06:43:27 -0500

Patrick, I could be under a false apprehension, but it runs in my mind that somebody (one of the supply houses -- Shoup perhaps?) sells a kit to convert the 50-series to the 60/90-series closing configuration. Maybe it was mother Deere. Anyway, I vaguely remember it being discussed on NewAgTalk (I think) in the last 6 months. Another option would be to go to an aftermarket closing wheel with a truly robust bearing, for instance our Thompson wheel: http://exapta.com/products/thompson.html Dawn Equipmt also makes 50-series closing wheels with durable bearings, although the weight of the wheel and shape of the spokes may not be optimal in some conditions. Hope this helps. ----- -- Matt Hagny, consulting agronomist since '94, founder Exapta Solutions ('99)

750 closing wheel rebuild/redesign

Fri, 05 Sep 2008 22:06:11 -0500

Getting tired of the having to replace the bearings, dust seals and bushings on my closing wheels. Replaced all of them prior to spring planting this year, and made it with pretty good luck about 2000 acres and then they started going out with a vengence. The field too far as I named it. Plain and simply the design sucks, there is a recess to catch dirt and nowhere for it to go except through your seal and into the bearings and viola, locked up closing wheel. Noticed they redesigned the wheels for the newer 1590 drills by turning the whole deal upside down so that the spindle turned with the closing wheel and the bearings were located on the closing wheel arm. Have concocted up some sort of idea how to pull that off using existing spindles, wheels, and such by machining a piece of pipe that would be welded to the closing wheel arm, that would hold bearings dust seals and cap, witht he spindle reversed. Only thing is I'm sure I'm not the first person to ever think of this...and probably somebody has already manufactured such a thing...and it would save me a lot of trial and error. If anybody knows of such a thing...would really appreciate a steer in the right direction thanks.

Reply to Dry fertilizer application on a 750 drill?

Fri, 05 Sep 2008 21:55:32 -0500

Have 750 drill that I put keatons into for liquid,,,and didn't really like the mess. One thought for dry fertilizer is to blend it with the seed and run the whole mess through the seed meters. Don't know how it would work for soybeans or canola because of the different seed sizes but it works pretty decent for wheat and is a fairly common practice where we are.

Reply to Corn into ysb 1st time

Wed, 03 Sep 2008 18:03:44 -0500

Best advice I can give you is pull some soybean tops every acre or so and get them tested for your nutrient load. About $20. Soil sample and send to lab and mark your yield goal. They will tell you what you need. For 200 bu corn for me it is 135 lbs N, 100 lbs P, 200 lbs K. 80 bu wheat was 100 N, 100 P, 100K, one pound Boron, Copper and Zinc. 60 bu soybeans was 100 P, 200 K, one pound Boron and one pound Manganese. Varies greatly on past practices.

Reply to Row Cleaners Reduce Soil Erosion

Wed, 03 Sep 2008 17:58:23 -0500

I don't understand your question, Rick. Ed Winkle

Manure Applicator Needed

Wed, 03 Sep 2008 12:57:56 -0500

Posted on behalf of David Holste, Effingham, IL, 217-739-2491 Going to no-till is one of the best things I have every done, but I need to find someone to apply about 1 million gallons of hog manure with a no-till applicator in the Effingham, IL area so I can be 100% no-till. If you happen to know of someone, my phone number is 217-739-2491 or email me at holste@wbnorriselectric.com.

soil damage

Mon, 01 Sep 2008 18:27:24 -0500

I have no-tilled for years in west central Illinois among neighbors who work it wet to plant and rip it deep in the fall to "relieve compaction". My concern is, that in order to get a crop planted this year I had to no-till my corn, in strips, and beans in very marginal conditions, meaning to wet. Have I damaged my soil to the point that I should consider fall tillage like my neighbors.

No-till wheat in 15" rows

Sun, 17 Aug 2008 15:20:52 -0500

Does anyone have any experience using a John Deere Maximerge planter to plant winter wheat in 15" rows? I have a 7240 vacuum splitter planter and would like to know about what plate to use, seed setting, etc. Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Reply to spaded closing for GP1625 planter

Sat, 09 Aug 2008 17:52:34 -0500

Mike did you take the spacers out when you put the martins on? I have a 1225 twin and I had to take the spacer out of both sides.

spraying UAN

Sat, 09 Aug 2008 07:01:48 -0500

I would like to put more N down at planting, but my current equipment limitations make that difficult. Has anyone tried spraying UAN on the field pre plant or pre emerge? Can I use 10-15 gals of 28% as carrier in my burndown? (which typically consists of glyphosate, 2,4D, and Resolve) Will it help control of those tough weeds like dandelions, marestail and wild carrot, or hurt it? Would like to hear your experiences with this, I know someone has done it....good bad or indifferent. Any other considerations with this? Suggestions? Thanks

NW Indiana No-till Field Day

Mon, 04 Aug 2008 08:36:06 -0500

The Carroll, Clinton, Howard, and Tippecanoe County Soil and Water Conservation Districts will host a No-Till Field day on August 27. This event will be held at the Purdue Beck Agriculture Center located on US 52 in West Lafayette, Indiana from 9:00a.m. to 2:30p.m. Guest speakers will cover the economics of no-till, corn-after-corn rotation implications, weed control/wellhead contamination prevention, and soil quality. An equipment demonstration will also take place. Credits for Pesticide Application Re-certification and Certified Crop Advisor Continuing Education Units have been requested for the day. This event is open to the public and a free lunch will be provided. Pre-registration is required and can be made by calling the Clinton County SWCD office at 765-659-1223 ext. 3, Tippecanoe County SWCD at 765-474-9992, Carroll County SWCD at 765-564-2849 ext. 3, or Howard County SWCD at 765-457-2114 ext. 3.

Row Cleaners Reduce Soil Erosion

Tue, 22 Jul 2008 13:17:17 -0500

Some of the row cleaner literature states that with floaters the row cleaners will reduce soil erosion. Mostly because less residue is moved and the furrow in the planting row is not as deep as typical no-till planting. Does anyone know of any data to support this claim?

Corn into ysb 1st time

Mon, 21 Jul 2008 21:56:50 -0500

First year farming, We have 100 acres of high quality bottom ground that is in beans. I am VERY short time to plant as a day job calls. What fertilizer route would you recommend? Ground is well drained and not subject to flooding.

1990 ccs air seeder

Fri, 18 Jul 2008 13:25:53 -0500

Anybody have a good way to put phosphorous on with jd 1990 ccs air seeder?

Reply to Bean Cups/Meters Worn out? How to tell?

Thu, 17 Jul 2008 12:34:42 -0500

That is good advice based on what I see on various boards. Still would like to know how to tell when a meter is past its prime /worn out and need to be replaced? Or is it the cups/plates that accompany them usually the problem/issue?

Jerry Anderson

Mon, 07 Jul 2008 19:13:53 -0500

Jerry, I would like to talk to you about your Schlagel closing wheels if you still have them. Thanks.

Bean Cups/Meters Worn out? How to tell?

Tue, 01 Jul 2008 14:22:50 -0500

Hi, New to NT and just put in bean with our new JD 7000 NT planter. This is a converted pull planter to 3 point hitch that we use for food plots of 1 to 5 acres. I have seen references to the JD bean meters/cups "slobering" beans out and that is what I am seeing. How can one tell if the cups (and or other parts) need to be replaced or should I just go with kinze bean meters as others recommend?

Case IH spiked closing wheel

Mon, 30 Jun 2008 23:59:02 -0500

I am running shoup spiked closing wheels instead of original disks and am thinking about also replacing the press wheel with spiked wheels to help close slot and break up side wall. What options are available for the 950 planter.

best no-till options

Sat, 28 Jun 2008 14:24:08 -0500

I am a 3 yr strip tiller who wants to go on to no-till. I am pricing Kinze 3000 and Deere 1750 6r's. My central NY valley soils can range from clay/silt loam bottoms to coarse gravel and everything between, often all in one field. I am thinking frame mounted coulters to keep the seed units from bouncing so much in tough gravels and upland shales, as well as the usual Martin type options. I'd like to hear suggestions. Not much no-till here to look at.

Reply to Kinze no-till??

Fri, 27 Jun 2008 20:14:17 -0500

The 3000 unit is very strong and heavy, they use up to 4 of the regular springs. I have been using a 3000 for many years with great results and I only us 2 springs. John

Reply to schlagel closing wheel

Wed, 25 Jun 2008 22:06:01 -0500

I'm new to this site, and no-till. I would like to try no-tilling some corn and I like the looks of the schlagels. Will they work in conventional till also? I really hate to try no-tilling without the right equipment but don't want to spend money on iron if it wont work for my conventionally tilled corn also. Thanks

Reply to wild onions

Mon, 23 Jun 2008 22:39:49 -0500

Tom, Even though it is a year later than my original post, I want to Thank You for your advice about using the Harmony. We sprayed it this spring at the .6 oz rate. It was a little slow working because of the cool wet weather I suppose. However, there isn't an onion or any garlic in sight. Thanks again. Mark Brubaker

Reply to weeds

Sun, 22 Jun 2008 07:21:06 -0500

I think c wieb is talking about marestail (Conyza canadensis). FirstRate will likely kill them. Don't skimp on the rate or adjuvants. Don't delay spraying either. This topic has been discussed extensively at NewAgTalk -- do a search over there, and a Google on the web itself. ----- -- Matt Hagny, consulting agronomist since '94, founder Exapta Solutions ('99)

weeds

Sat, 21 Jun 2008 22:34:20 -0500

i have a weed that looks like a small evergreen tree...some call it mares tail....i do not know the scientific name....it gets about a foot high and is so thick it smothers out my soybeans.....according to my local elevator ,nothing kills it , and they think its from no tilling.... if any one has any insight of how to rid my fields of it , or why it loves my farm ,i thank you in advance.....if this forum has discussed this weed in the past , could someone direct me to the thread.....

Reply to Great Plains no-till drill

Thu, 19 Jun 2008 22:19:51 -0500

I have a Great Plains 1500 CPH drill. This year on the advice of the GP rep at the conference I made some changes. I put 6" of spacers on the main lift cylinders. This put some weight onto the transport wheels when the drill was full. This keeps the drill from planting too deep when it is full. I also added 1000# of tractor weights to the brackets on the coulter cart. This kept the drill in the ground when it got low on beans. Now a question. My drill needs to be rebuilt. The coulters, openers and bearings need to be replaced. Anyone have any thoughts about widening out the row spacing to 15" rows. The advantages are: 1. less cost for parts 2. less down pressure springs pushing up on the drill so better penetration when the drill is low. 3. I can plant lower populations and still have beans push through any crust as they will be closer together. please forward any thoughts.

Reply to Kinze no-till??

Tue, 17 Jun 2008 04:53:36 -0500

I wonder what "moderate no-till" is? Seems to me it's either no-till or it isn't. Mark Brubaker

deers

Mon, 16 Jun 2008 18:16:27 -0500

I have been notilling for about 4 years. this year i have had a treamendous problem with deers eatin my soybeans. my neighboring farms soybean field are not being demolished like mine. The only difference between their beans and mine are that they are discing their land. I guess their beans are growing quiker due to the warmer soils. I need type of advice.

Kinze no-till??

Mon, 16 Jun 2008 16:50:55 -0500

I am looking to update planters and while researching kinze planters I noticed in their brochures they only advise their planters for moderate no-till, does anyone have experience using these twinline planters for all no-till applications? I am not sure if the kinze down pressure system is adequate.

Reply to JD 1750 Planter down pressure

Wed, 11 Jun 2008 14:03:13 -0500

I was told that they are very nice. But they are just like air bags on trucks and will dry rot and blow out.

Reply to Finger or Vaccum Seed Meters

Wed, 11 Jun 2008 13:59:57 -0500

I like the finger pick up. They are very simple and eazt to repair. If they are maintaind will work just fine. Plus you don't have to worry about the vac system problems.

JD 1750 Planter down pressure

Wed, 11 Jun 2008 12:20:22 -0500

Pricing a new planter and was looking for opinions on the pneumatic down pressure system vs the springs on a 1750 John Deere conservation planter. What are everyone's experiences? Tim Fichtel

Finger or Vaccum Seed Meters

Fri, 06 Jun 2008 23:12:18 -0500

I am looking for a different corn planter and wondering which type of meter will work better. Currently I am using a finger metering system. We have rocky soil so the row units do some bouncing.

no-till good or bad

Fri, 06 Jun 2008 11:26:48 -0500

I have been around farming all my life (36 years) and watched my dad go from working ground to all no-till about 8 years ago. I farm on my own and see how it has worked for him, so I have no-tilled half my corn the past two my years with some success. Last night I was ready the Indiana Agri news and they had two articles about no-till and the moral to the stories was it will not work. They stated that less arobic activity was happening, more erosion, and nutrient stradification was taking place. This was very concerning to me for I am trying very hard to go to no-till totally in my operation due to many reasons, fuel, labor machinery. I hope I'm going down the correct path for success in my operation!!!

Maple Trees

Tue, 03 Jun 2008 11:58:50 -0500

How do you get rid of small maple trees in your fields?

Reply to Dandelion Control

Mon, 02 Jun 2008 13:57:34 -0500

On our farm we run one quarts round up and one pint 2,4D. This has worked very well for burn down. In some cases we have used aim instead of 2,4D. This kills them dandelions fast. We also use Raptor with the post application of round up this has worked very well and gives use some residual.

Liquid starter placement on 750 jd drill

Mon, 02 Jun 2008 00:00:50 -0500

For a couple of years now I have been using the steel liquid tubes from blumhardt to put down starter on my 750 drill, I'm not happy on the placement and the fact that the starter splatters all over the place. the tube puts the starter down right through the back of the boots and I have had some issues on plugging the boots If I stop and forget the liquid pump on. I have the V6 firming wheels from needham ag, and they are great for my soil so taking off the packer wheels is not an option, any help would be great!

Reply to coulters yes or no

Sat, 31 May 2008 07:47:29 -0500

The post above is mine. For some reason, I was allowed to post without logging in. ----- -- Matt Hagny, consulting agronomist since '94, founder Exapta Solutions ('99)

coulters yes or no

Fri, 30 May 2008 12:55:19 -0500

I keep reading that people are taking coulters off there planters. and I don't understand how there getting the seed into the ground. what type of planters are you using to plant with. what type of opners, anything to help would be great. for soybeans we plant with a 7000 jd corn planter on 15'' rows

Carbide tip boots

Tue, 27 May 2008 11:03:16 -0500

I have read a lot about carbide tipped boots for a 750 drill, however I am looking for a supplier, if someone could help me out.

Reply to Dandelion Control

Sat, 24 May 2008 19:10:31 -0500

I sprayed Basis on a field with dandelion problems last fall that was going to corn this year. Planted it today and the Basis has nearly totally eliminated the dandys. Also had a lot of chickweed in that field and it did a good job on it too.

Reply to corn and dairy manure

Sat, 24 May 2008 07:49:10 -0500

Donald, Apply the manure onto a living cover crop. That solves several problems at once.

Reply to MANURE spreading

Tue, 20 May 2008 16:12:27 -0500

We have used liquid hog manure for several years as our only source of fertlizer. For years our problem with not going to 100% no-till was the recommendation that we need to incorporate manure. After trying some without incorporation we saw no difference in the PSNT's that we take to assess if we need additional N. Last year we did side-byside tests where we incorporated and did not incorporate and later did PSNT's and we did not find any difference. We apply 6000 gals per acre and have seen PSNT's of 50-100ppm, anything over 22 is considered adequate for a corn crop. The only N we use is about 25 units at planting. We have had yields of 200bpa which is very good for our area of PA. I believe that the very thin hop manure is being absorped quickly and we are not loosing N into the air. 5

colters on lilliston drill

Mon, 19 May 2008 14:51:17 -0500

Hi, I recently purchased a used Lilliston 9680 no till drill. It has a straight disk to open the ground ahead of the double disk openers. A complete set of ripple disks came with the drill. My question is, would the ripple disk work better in old sod than the straight disk? Our soil is loam, not light and not heavy.Will be planting oats, barley and millet. Also alfalfa/ pasture mix. The sod would be killed with round up ahead of planting .Preferably the fall before. Thanks in advance for any help you can give me. Rob Young

Reply to rjh

Sun, 18 May 2008 13:02:06 -0500

May we help you Roger? If you are having problems contact Darrel at NoTill Farmer. Ed Winkle

Reply to Dandelion Control

Sun, 18 May 2008 09:09:14 -0500

Dandelions have been one of my most troubling to control weeds the last few years. Partially because of 2-4-D resisistant bio types. Partly because, as Jim mentioned, late harvest dates sometimes. Our first experiance with Valor was a spring premerge application. We knew we weren't going to be 100% effective, but it was far better than anything else we could use. That, followed by Classic post (if you can use it), gave us satisfactory control. Spring Valor gave us season long control, but I really want more than that. Really, any dandelion control measures on the front end of their life cycle is for revenge anyway. They need to be controlled on the backside (fall) of their life cycle if eradication is your goal. When we have the opportunity, we liked fall Valor/2-4-D. Haven't seen a real responce to RU with dandelions regardless of when it was applied. The downside for us with Valor is that we have to decide if we're going to fall spray, or use cover crops in a field. Valor and cover crops, particularly cereal rye, don't mix well at all. Valor won the battle every time we tried. Last fall, we tried Autumn for dandelion control ahead of both corn and soys for this year. So far, it looks pretty promising. We did make a pass with the sprayer over some established rye last fall, didn't seem to harm the rye. That opens up a lot of options for me if I can apply Autumn on established cover crops. Autumn was touted as a thistle control chem as well, but I still saw some this spring at planting. Dandelions are almost non existant. We like to spray both Autumn and Valor the same as we do glyphosate- low water, heavy NIS and any other spreader/sticker/snake oil you think will increase uptake. Be careful with any additive that'll burn the foilage too fast. Its gratifying to burn the top foilage off in a day or 2. Doesn't kill the weed generally speaking, but makes you feel good. Right up until it becomes apparant that your problem is growing out of your chem application again.

chem fallow info

Wed, 14 May 2008 21:53:21 -0500

Being a new owner of an older Concord air drill, I have decided to ease into the direct seeding business. I am currently in a 60/40 farm/fallow rotation. This will be my first official year of chem fallow as opposed to my old tillage methods of controlling weeds. I just have a few issues / and or questions. I am currently spraying my first pass with 16 oz of rt3 TO kill cheatgrass, volunteer wheat, and some very small broadleafs. The problem I am having is that the field yielded 67 bushels/acre winter wheat last year, and the stubble was left very tall. I don't know if my 10 gallons per acre of solution is going to cut through all that straw and get a good kill. Any suggestions? I've waited as long as I dare for the grasses to poke through, for the cheatgrass is thinking about heading out. Will this mass of straw deteriorate throughout the summer or will it always be an issue? There's also a few small piles of russian thistle carcasses. Am I going to have a mess after the next rain? I've seen a lot of chem fallow fields have these same issues, so there must be a secret. The second question is; In this day and age of high fuel prices vs. climbing glyphosate prices, will somebody pencil this out and convince me that chem fallow is as cost effective as tillage. I usually kill fallow four passes to get to winter wheat and five passes to get to spring wheat. I am told that the next pass in late June or early July usually requires the addition of 24d ester as well as glyphosate, raising the spraying bill even more. My tractor and chisel plow burns .75 gallons/acre ($3/acre fuel cost) diesel fuel and it gets 100% kill every time. What is soil moisture worth, and do I really have to lose money for seven years until the soil structure benefits of no-till reach their potential? By the way this is dryland, south east Montana, 13 inch precip. zone, and one the earliest growing seasons in the state.

rjh

Wed, 14 May 2008 16:28:15 -0500

Reply to gypsum

Wed, 14 May 2008 08:27:19 -0500

Interesting, especially this spring as it seems like it rains everytime the fields are just getting fit. Do you have a source for more detail on the numbers you present? For example, I have a problem field where the % base sat. is 20% Mg and 62% Ca. So is it likely to see improvement from applying gypsum?

Reply to Grazed alfalfa compaction

Mon, 12 May 2008 13:26:20 -0500

Did you graze the field hard this winter? Have you burned down the alfalfa already? I'm no expert--just my two cents worth here: I read somewhere that when there is a living root system underneath, compaction not much of a problem. With this past winter being so wet (at least here in SC Kansas), it was not conducive to having cattle out on the fields. If you did have the livestock out there this winter and then allowed the alfalfa to green up before burndown, the roots may have been able to alleviate some of the compaction. Last year I burned down alfalfa with 48 oz. of 4# glyphosate after 2nd cutting. I had grazed it fairly hard the fall before but moved the cows to wheat pasture for winter. Planted sudan 2nd week of July 2007. Starting about mid-August I grazed it hard until frost. I grazed it too hard in fact. I should have left some residue, but it was just nubbins when I took the cows off. (It was either that or break into my stockpile of hay sooner.) I planted corn in that field on April 22 and seem have a good stand. I'll find out at harvest how well it does. You may want to take a steel penetration rod and poke down into the soil and compare your alfalfa field to some of your other no-till fields.

Grazed alfalfa compaction

Fri, 09 May 2008 13:07:46 -0500

Im still wondering what you all think about planting milo into 5-6 year old alfalfa that we have intensively grazed every winter. Im concerned with the compaction issue. Good black soil in NC Kansas. JD 1590 Notill Drill w/ liquid.

Reply to No-Till in Sand

Thu, 08 May 2008 21:54:45 -0500

In light sandy ground the keys to getting notill to work are residue and fertility. I have used cereal rye as a cover crop to help build organic matter and have tried and really liked some pop up fertilizers containing humic acid such as Black Label (from UAP). The biggest challenges you will have are not specific to no till but to the soil itself, building up organic matter and fertility and of course sufficient moisture which will be MASSIVELY enhanced with a good residue cover. Notill is the ONLY way to farm on sand. Good luck

Reply to Dandelion Control

Thu, 08 May 2008 21:39:50 -0500

I have the same problem, and have had mixed results with glyphosate and 2,4D. My best results are with fall burndown but since I am in Michigan by the time the crops come off I don't get much chance to spray. I have been told the ideal timing is just after a light frost but I often don't finish harvest until the ground is fully frozen. There are two chemicals that I would recommend though....to mix with your post emergence spray....classic and valor, either (not both DO NOT combine them) will help to further suppress the dandelions that escaped the burndown.

Reply to Case IH double-disc closing wheels

Thu, 08 May 2008 21:18:16 -0500

I run a 900 series caseih planter equipped with both the shoup notched closing discs and the notched marker to plant both beans and corn in continuous (8 years and counting) notill. The notched closing wheels work great in most soil types and I would recommend them to anyone with two potential difficult areas. Those are excessively wet soils where the martin spiked wheels tend to work better and extremely dry (hard and crusty) conditions where you may also want to consider the caseih optional heavy duty closing disc spring. if the ground is wet especially clay or clay loam soils it tends to "ribbon" the soil when closing the trench and when it dries the seed trench can reopen and leave your seed exposed. In extremely dry and hard soils run the notches backwards in the aggressive setting and they will close the trench but they tend to "lump" the soil if it is really dry and it can take significant rain to get the crop to emerge. But both of those problems are extreme examples in extreme conditions. I have run them for going on three years and would highly recommend them. The notched marker discs....well, they are better than the factory caseih discs to be sure. In sandy soils or where moisture is adequate they work well. If the soil is hard or dry or if you happen to plant with the row of corn stalks they don't penetrate well (similar to the original discs) also, they are a "push" marker so if your planter has folding markers it will "walk them in" unless you disassemble the disc and reverse it. I tried them for a year or two, then built a double disc marker setup (email me for pics on how I did it) that worked much better. I still am not satisfied and am strongly considering purchasing the disc, depth band, bearing and bracket assembly from my jd dealer for a 1590 notill drill which is a larger 16" instead of 12 1/2 diameter and has a depth band. I have tried wheels and weights and even considered trying a foamer....markers seem to be the one thing on my planter I am not satisfied with. Anyone else have any suggestions? If anyone has questions about setting up a caseih planter to notill or for narrow rows email me at jdafarms@airadv.net I have been using them for over ten years and notilling with them in every soil type for 8 of those.

Reply to first time 750jd drill for beans

Mon, 28 Apr 2008 12:07:55 -0500

Make sure to set the meter clips in the more open position! I would suggest setting the meter adjustment for 2 marks more than the chart. I use a depth setting of 1.25". In here a no-til drill, tractor and operator is $20/acre.

JD 1550 v GP 1006NT

Sat, 26 Apr 2008 14:44:41 -0500

I can buy an older JD 1550 in good shape right now, or wait a year and buy a newer model drill like a GP 1006 NT. I need something to use planting at our hunting club, mostly level fields with some old pine stumps in places. Primarily plant wheat, oats, clover, rye. Any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks CC

Reply to first time 750jd drill for beans

Wed, 23 Apr 2008 23:05:10 -0500

The 750 JD drill is tough to beat in my opinion, Up here in north central MN the going rate for bean or wheat planting is 18.50 acre, but hardly any one has a no till drill around here. 5 years ago when I bought mine all the neighbors thought I was crazy, now they all want me to custom seed their fields.

Reply to marlyn debeer

Wed, 23 Apr 2008 07:39:19 -0500

Depends on the field layout. Mine are layed such that is more time consuming to plant at an angle but many do. I plant, drill with the rows but it looks better when I go the direction of the stalks. That is not always easier either. If you have any row humps, it is bumpier to drill at an angle. Otherwise I drill with the rows. Don't forget to inoculate your beans with one of the new inoculants and don't over populate in good soil conditions which is what we have in Ohio right now. I am sure you will find what is best for you. My best notilled drilled soybeans come from 100-140k final populations and that is more important than drill direction. Get them about one inch deep.

marlyn debeer

Wed, 23 Apr 2008 06:20:39 -0500

first time notiller what is the best way to plant in standing corn stalks? do i go straight up and down the rows or at a little bit at an angle ill be drilling beans with jd 750 notill drill. I know this mite sound like dumb ?s but never notilled before and need all help can get so dont make costly mistakes lol. thanks

corn and dairy manure

Tue, 22 Apr 2008 16:30:25 -0500

We are a 100% no-till in our crop rotation. It has worked out great. but we have trouble with the second year of corn. We apply about 95000-12000 gallons per acer. The corn on soy has always bean great corn and is treated the same. I have noticed that it seams to be a bigger problem in spring applied then in fall applied manure. I am looking for any good ideas on how to handle the manure without injecting.

Josh Biggs

Tue, 22 Apr 2008 12:18:26 -0500

We have just purchased our first no till drill JD 1590. What do you think of notilling milo into 6 year old alfalfa that we have grazed every winter? Im afraid of the compaction? Any thoughts would be appreciated

easy guide plus wiring

Sun, 20 Apr 2008 10:53:58 -0500

does anybody know an easy inexpensive way to connect a implement switch along with the remote without purchasing the cable from trimble? I was told pins 4 and 5 were the trigger wires but i have had no success?

Reply to first time 750jd drill for beans

Sat, 19 Apr 2008 07:52:28 -0500

This should get you started: http://exapta.com/knowledge/tipdrill.html -- the DVD has still more info.

first time 750jd drill for beans

Tue, 15 Apr 2008 07:14:35 -0500

Reply to schlagel closing wheel

Sun, 13 Apr 2008 21:42:02 -0500

Jerry, Thank you for info.I got a JD1750 and right now no one that I know has a JD7000 planter.

spaded closing for GP1625 planter

Sun, 13 Apr 2008 21:15:25 -0500

I have a Great Plains 1625 planter (2 years old), and am not happy with the soft wedge closing wheels that came with it. I have Martin Spaders on my Kinze corn planter and love them, but they dont do much good on the Great Plains that I plant beans with. Does anyone have any knowledge or recommendations for this problem?

schlagel closing wheel

Fri, 11 Apr 2008 09:04:36 -0500

I was wondering if anyone has the schlagel closing wheels? Do they work?

Reply to keetons vs seed-lok

Thu, 10 Apr 2008 07:44:02 -0500

Seed-lock wheels were all the rage in the early and mid-'90s. The gum up with mud/straw badly in damp clay soils because the wheel's axle is so close to the soil surface. In arid climates or sandy soils, they work nicely.

keetons vs seed-lok

Thu, 10 Apr 2008 00:28:22 -0500

I bough a bunch of brand new seed-lok wheel kits that fit my planter for next to nothing and put them on a few rows of my planter today in place of keetons and so far I think I really enjoy them. They really get the seed to the bottom of the trench and firmed I also like how the pressure can be ajusted from who knows how many tens of pounds ,to a light tuck (I think my problems with keetons might have been my "not so heavy duty" opener blades flexing to the point that I have a narrow trench) I was just curious if anyone else had any information on seed-lok's vs keeton's and why keetons seem to be so popular and seed-lok wheels dont seem to be. I guess Im just worried they are flawed in some way and I have yet to figure out what the problem is. ( Matt H. this might be a question for you, because you mention seed firming wheels when discussing the mojo wire but I cant seem to find any other information on them) Thanks, Matt

Reply to Nitrogen at planting

Mon, 07 Apr 2008 05:35:18 -0500

Richard, I have now been doing this type of application for several years with great success. The biggest difference is that I strip-till. In the fall I apply all my P & K with 20 lbs of N. When I plant I put 120 lbs of N , 3" over and 3/4" below the seed, along with starter. Before emergence, I go back over and apply my herbicides and 40 lbs of N over the top. From what we have tried, I am not sure you would want to apply any more N or be any closer to the seed. I have been corn on corn for the pass 4 years and last year was my best ever overall bu per ac avg ! My overall usage of N has dropped by 40 lbs per ac and my yields are up ! In my opinion, I feel it is very important to apply some N over the top as it serves in many different ways. Denny

Reply to Coulters VS Row Cleaners

Sat, 05 Apr 2008 07:24:03 -0500

Matt C, That is a very insightful comment! -- Maybe instead of repairing the gauge-wheel pivot points, and carefully shimming gauge wheels to the blade, we should instead move the gauge wheels out a couple inches away from the blade! (Facetious Suggestion)

Reply to Coulters VS Row Cleaners

Fri, 04 Apr 2008 17:21:03 -0500

Row cleaners w/o coulters. Root bound sounds good to me. If our ancestors had Roundup instead of John Deere's moldboard on our prairie soils---

Reply to Notill soybeans-7000 planter needs??

Fri, 04 Apr 2008 17:10:22 -0500

row cleaners set to just move trash, if they don't turn all the time they are set about right. No coulter but new disc openers set at 2 inch touching in front, down pressure springs for dry weather, spading closing wheels w/drag chain

Reply to Spike closing wheels in no-till & conventional tillage

Fri, 04 Apr 2008 17:02:16 -0500

I run both sides w/Martin spike wheels in all types of conditions on my JD 12 row. Make sure that you use the drag chain offered by Martin. That's the key. No down pressure on the wheels.

Reply to Great Plains no-till drill

Fri, 04 Apr 2008 16:54:42 -0500

here's what we found: GP is good for wet years as it fluffs and airs out the ground. You need to plant a little deeper b/c of that. The seemingly bad thing is that when you lift it, the whole unit raises, seed box and all. This weight makes variances on planting depth. When the seed box is empty the penetration is lessened ,thus the seed is shallower. We can always tell where we run low on seed, the emergence is slower. Deere's units are high maintenance but seeding is unaffected by weight yet the guage wheel will raise the seed depth when it travels over residue and root balls. Using GP is like having a disc running ahead of you. If it rains right after you'll replant. if it doesn't you better had planted deep. I'd like a JD drill w/row cleaners if I could

spiked closing discs on case ih

Fri, 04 Apr 2008 16:23:22 -0500

This is my second year no-tilling beans into corn stubble. We have sandy loam soil here mainly. I retrofitted a 950 Case IH planter to 21" rows and added a unit mounted 8 wave coulter from yetter. I have determined the opening discs and closing discs are worn out and i am seeing plenty of aftermarket closing systems available for these planters. Should I change systems or stick with the old one? Has anyone had any experience with "Shoup" replacement parts and notched marker discs?? Has anyone had any experience with the shoup spiked closing disc system?. Any thoughts?

Reply to Nitrogen at planting

Fri, 04 Apr 2008 08:05:52 -0500

Hi, my name is Richard, here's my question: By banding urea, is it possible to cut the rates of nitrogen usage if you're banding all your fertilizer next to the row? Not doing any broadcast, banding only. I'm putting this all on with the planter. And, how far from the seed would this all have to be so it doesn't burn?

spiked closing wheels

Thu, 03 Apr 2008 13:23:00 -0500

Has anyone had any experience with the shoup spiked closing disc system. Any thoughts

Case IH double-disc closing wheels

Thu, 03 Apr 2008 13:15:27 -0500

Reply to Applying NH3 w/and ausherman vantage II fertlizer disk

Tue, 01 Apr 2008 22:57:32 -0500

I'm curious about trying the same thing. thinking about building attachment to go on a planter or just on a toolbar to apply nh3 using a disk opener instead of a knife mounted on a shank. if you have some ideas I would be interested in hearing them.

Great Plains no-till drill

Tue, 01 Apr 2008 07:30:12 -0500

I'm looking at a Great Plains CPH 1500 no-till drill. There are numerous GP drlls in my area but seems no one is no-tllling. I'm looking for feedback on this type of unit. Thanks!

Reply to What are you doing differently this sping?

Mon, 17 Mar 2008 04:21:45 -0500

I'm just trying to fine-tune, I guess you'd say. I'm double checking all the planter and drill parts to try for that perfect stand, replacing a lot of worn coulters. Stepping up the 28% in my row starter. Selected more BT/RW hybrids instead of just BT, as in the past. Gonna try to plant earlier if conditions are right. Especially beans. Also, it may not be a factor this spring but I bought a no-till ripper to help complete my soil transition to total no-till. This is my third crop year as all no-till. Mark

Reply to What are you doing differently this sping?

Thu, 13 Mar 2008 21:27:20 -0500

I haven't had much success growing soybeans here in central Kansas. Last year they looked good most of the summer, but I missed several rains in August that came within about five miles of my place. I was disappointed with my yields. I had planted a longer season bean and they didn't dry down until mid-October. My normal rotation is to plant winter wheat on bean ground about October 10-15, but a late bean harvest meant a late wheat sowing date. I had what I felt was success with double crop sunflowers (after winter wheat), so my plan is to divert some acres from beans to 1st crop sunflowers. The input costs will be a bit higher, but the flowers should withstand periods of drought better than beans. The last time I checked (last week) I could contract NuSun sunflowers with an "Act of God" contract for just over .30/lb. With an AOG contract I contract acres, not bushels. If I lock in a price on xxx bushels of beans, then I need to raise xxx bushels to deliver. With an AOG contract I deliver whatever those acres produce. The contract maxes out at 1200#/acre. Anything over that I can either sell for the current price at time of delivery or I can store them and sell at a later time, like any other grain crop. The biggest problem is that sunflowers are such a minor crop around here that the local elevator manager doesn't like to mess with them. He told me today that he hopes by the middle of September his facility will be full of corn, so he won't have any room for sunflowers. Another thing I've done more of this year than ever before is to lock in input costs. I hate to put out the money now for these high prices, but I have no reason to believe prices for fuel, fertilizer and chemicals will decline substantially before I need to use them. Most of my suppliers have told me if prices go down I will get the better price, but I trust that I have put a cap on these prices. I feel reasonably sure they will deliver the products when I need them unless there is some catastrophic event to disrupt the delivery pipeline. At the No-Till On the Plains Winter Conference in Salina, KS in January, there was much discussion about cover crops. I am considering putting out some cover crops after wheat harvest, rather than doublecropping all my wheat acres as I have done in the past. Some of the presenters spoke of planting a "Cover Crop Cocktail" using several species. Mother Nature never plants just one specie of vegetation in a field. It was suggested that after wheat, one should plant a mixture of warm season grasses and warm season broadleaves with one or two of the broadleaf species being legumes to fix nitrogen. (After fall harvest one should plant cool season grasses and broadleaves.) One presenter said to start by cleaning out the seed shed to use up any leftover seed. Just be careful not plant something that could interfere with next year's crop and be sure to burn it down before it makes seed. The goal is to increase organic matter. I had one neighbor that planted a mix of sudangrass and sunflowers late last August. The sudan didn't die until our first freeze in the first week of November (about 2-3 weeks later than normal). The coffee shop talk was abuzz with what he was going to do with that tangled mess. He had offers to have it grazed or chopped for feed, which he didn't accept. He felt there was no more residue than what is typically left after a 100 bushel milo yield (which is good for this area). He made one pass with a drill (no seed) last fall just to see how the drill would handle the residue. It worked just fine. He does have a potential problem in that we have had a wet winter, and the residue may prevent the ground from drying out by the time he wants to plant soybeans there. That is where a green winter cover may have been a better option for him. This response is quite lengthy. Sorry, I don't know how to be brief. That is what several of us are doing in central Kansas.

Reply to controlling trees

Wed, 12 Mar 2008 20:46:17 -0500

Been no tilling since 1971 in EC Ks. & trees can certainly be a problem. Spike the glyphosate w/ 2-4-D, wait @ least 3-5 days before planting & that should bring the little tree sprouts down, if they are leafed out good.

Reply to What are you doing differently this sping?

Wed, 12 Mar 2008 20:42:54 -0500

Ed, I have not been farming long on my own (this will be my fourth crop year), but I guess that I am really not doing anything different this year. I have tried to be diligent about soil sampling and fertilizing at the recommended levels. I know of some guys that are cutting back on fertilizer becasue of cost, however, with the high crop prices, the cost-benefit ratio still says to fertilize at recommended levels. Each operation is different, hopefully, we will all benefit come fall. Speaking of high input prices, heard today that DAP hit $825/ton at the local coop; makes my $618 in January look like a real bargain. Maybe I should sell mine.(LOL)

Reply to In furrow fertilizer

Wed, 12 Mar 2008 20:34:59 -0500

Should be or instead of & between 10-34-0 or 18-46-0 in drill furrow.

Reply to In furrow fertilizer

Wed, 12 Mar 2008 20:32:57 -0500

Been putting 5 gal. liquid 10-34-0 in planter furrow w/ the seed & 65# 18-46-0 in seed furrow along w/ seed for 25 yrs. & it works. Still the most efficient way to apply fertilizer. Just let one row plug up & go look later, Never have any trouble finding that row by looking @ crop. It just works, believe me.

Reply to Spike closing wheels in no-till & conventional tillage

Wed, 12 Mar 2008 10:42:19 -0500

Shawn, farmer here with double martin wheels has planted into conventional ground (actually it was apple orchards that were torn out and ground worked) with no problems. As Russ says, don't have down pressure. That being said, most farmers here run one spiked and one rubber mostly because I think they just couldn't take that leap. I expect most will switch to two spiked next time they need to replace.

Reply to Spike closing wheels in no-till & conventional tillage

Sun, 09 Mar 2008 09:02:50 -0500

I think you have it figured out, Shawn. The Martin is a good one. I prefer a pair, especially in early notill. I wanted it planted before the ground gets hot, dry and hard. Some prefer other wheels closing wheels but that one just what you said. It tills gently beside and above your seed trench, leaves it in garden like condition. Some use a non spiked wheel beside it but I prefer two in my conditions. The whole system is very popular and successful across the country and even other countries.

Reply to Spike closing wheels in no-till & conventional tillage

Sat, 08 Mar 2008 17:14:57 -0600

It is doable, just remove all down pressure from closing system.

Spike closing wheels in no-till & conventional tillage

Sat, 08 Mar 2008 15:08:11 -0600

I have been looking at trying a set of spiked closing wheels for this year. I have read the various threads on this topic and have looked at the products offered by Dawn, Martin, Schagel, as well as a couple of others. I have decided that I like the Martin closing wheel system the best. It appears that the spike penetrates and crumbles the sidewall and that the slot should close in less than ideal conditions. My question is can this closing wheel be run in conventional till as well? Would you run one spike and one rubber closing wheel or can I run two spike closing wheels per row? While I am moving more toward no-till, we have some bottom ground that still needs to be tilled each spring and would like not to have to change the closing wheels over each time we switch. I realize adjustments would need to be made, however, I was wondering if anyone has had any good or bad experiences and/or tips in switching from one tillage system to another.

Reply to Broad Casting "Potash"

Sat, 08 Mar 2008 08:30:51 -0600

Ed Winkle wrote: "they are really balancing their anions and cations and causing a soil energy that just makes their crops explode." -- Got any science to back up this statement? -- I am not aware of any chemistry or plant physiology that allows this to happen. ----- -- Matt Hagny, consulting agronomist since '94, founder Exapta Solutions ('99)

What are you doing differently this sping?

Fri, 07 Mar 2008 17:07:35 -0600

Feeling a little smug we put on more than enough P and K and micro's the past few years. What are you doing differently this year with the high input prices?

Reply to conventional tillage neighbor thinking

Fri, 07 Mar 2008 16:15:50 -0600

Joel, You could have been in one of my classes but you were not. Great post. Sadly, fuel and machinery cost might be our greatest driver to get farmers to want to notill. Education will never be more important than it is now. I am serious when I say if I can do it, anyone can. Ed Winkle

Reply to Broad Casting "Potash"

Fri, 07 Mar 2008 16:11:55 -0600

Hi Steve, This should be under soils and crops but that's OK. My friends in Iowa started finding potash deficient corn some years back in notill. Soil test said OK, tissue test said deficient. It was worse on the edge of gravel roads where the lime dust blew into the field. We started pulling samples at 2-3 inches with the plow depth samples and found good K levels but the plant couldn't get it, tied up with high lime. Lime, particularly calicium is wonderful spread across your soil profile. Jammed or layered in any one area is bad. They used an acid and a base to buffer their soil and had good results. In their case, 100 lbs. potash with several tons of liquid hog manure. This is basic chemistry if you can figure out how the pluses and minuses you are applying are doing to each other. When you hear these outrageous successes some farmers are having, they are really balancing their anions and cations and causing a soil energy that just makes their crops explode. I have enjoyed it a few times but just as prone to follow the leader and go down the wrong path. If you need potash, spread potash. It is $600 per ton here. If you need lime, spread that first. Get a good soil test and go over it with someone who knows what they are looking at. The higher the clay or CEC of your soil the more potash you will need. Ed Winkle

Reply to conventional tillage neighbor thinking

Mon, 03 Mar 2008 17:02:50 -0600

Try this: Dig up some soil from your no-till field and then dig up some from your CT neighbor's field (with his permission, of course). Take a clod about the size of an Oreo cookie from each sample and put each in a separate jar. Cover each with about 2-3 inches of water. Let each sample set for about 15 minutes. The sample from the no-till field will still resemble a clod while the clod from the tilled field will have "melted" into a layer of silt on the bottom of the jar. Which will be most likely to be washed off the field? Another interesting experiment is to take two empty plastic ice cream buckets and drill a few holes in the bottom of each. Carefully dig up a chunk of soil from your NT field that will just fit into the bucket leaving about 4 inches of open space at the top. After your neighbor has tilled his field, fill the other bucket with tilled soil from his field, again leaving about 4 inches of space at the top. Pour equal amounts of water (about a quart each) into each bucket at the same time. Watch how much water drains out of the holes in the bottom. Most likely the tilled soil will seal over and very little will run out the bottom. If you'd get a rain comparable to the amount of water you poured into the buckets, the tilled field would experience much more runoff than the NT field. One other thing you could do: After a big rain which results in runoff from both yours and your neighbor's fields, take a yardstick and put it into the running water where it is leaving the fields. See how many inches down you can still see the end of the yardstick in the water coming from your field and compare that to the murkiness of the water coming off your neighbor's field. I've seen the first two experiments done at no-till meetings. I've done the yardstick experiment on my farm. Your neighbor may change his mind after seeing the results--if it is open to change. "If we always do what we've always done, we will always get what we've always got." I don't remember where I heard that, but I'm always looking to improve my operation.

Reply to Broad Casting "Potash"

Mon, 03 Mar 2008 07:31:53 -0600

Surface broadcast in no-till can be effective in moist climates, just not quite as consistently effective as shallow (1 - 3") subsurface application. Since it is less costly, maybe it's not a bad trade-off. For an exhaustive research review and discussion, see: http://www.notill.org/LE_Articles/V6N3A2_Stratification.pdf ----- -- Matt Hagny, consulting agronomist since '94, founder Exapta Solutions ('99)

Reply to No-till corn into alfalfa

Mon, 03 Mar 2008 07:22:39 -0600

Seed-to-soil contact: be sure to run a Keeton with plenty of tension on it, or a seed-lock wheel. ----- -- Matt Hagny, consulting agronomist since '94, founder Exapta Solutions ('99)

Reply to No-till corn into alfalfa

Sun, 02 Mar 2008 19:40:58 -0600

Hay field compaction is an over-rated worry. I have had excellent results going into 25-30 year old hay stands. Be very much aware that just because the top of the "slot" is closed does not mean you have seed to soil contact, make very sure that the seed trench is bottom closed.

Applying NH3 w/and ausherman vantage II fertlizer disk

Sun, 02 Mar 2008 11:08:32 -0600

Can you apply NH3 with an Ausherman Vantage II fertlizer disk? I have been reading on your website and found a person who has been doing this for 5 or more years. I was unable to contact him. I am thinking about trying this and would like some feed back. Thanks.

Reply to No-till corn into alfalfa

Sun, 02 Mar 2008 08:27:23 -0600

I'm not so worried about the insects & getting the alfalfa-sod killed as I am about the ground being compacted from 6 years of haying & in places there like pot holes inbetween the alfalfa plants. I am planning to use Poncho 250 and maybe some Capture LFR. Thanks for all the replies!

Reply to conventional tillage neighbor thinking

Thu, 28 Feb 2008 21:42:16 -0600

Ed, " you can lead a horse to water, but you can't make him drink" or something like that. THe ones who care about things will watch to learn, the rest won't .

Reply to contact drive ?

Thu, 28 Feb 2008 20:54:35 -0600

jeremy, Jamison Ag Repair in Colo,IA makes a kit for contact wheel drive. Their phone number is 641-377-2627. $1600.00 list for a 7000 Deere. David Moeller

contact drive ?

Thu, 28 Feb 2008 10:43:18 -0600

In 2006 I was at the Nat. Farm Machinery Show and got some info on planter contact wheel drive for 7000 JD planter and have misplaced it. Does anyone know who the company is or a web site? Thanks for any help.

Reply to Broad Casting "Potash"

Wed, 27 Feb 2008 21:59:37 -0600

Steve, We use liquid 10-34-0 thru pur 12 R- 20" 7000 planter. We place potash down w/ a 20" strip-til unit. Potash & Phosphorus broadcast is not a very efficient way to apply it, in our soils, anyway. Broadcast P2O5 is tied up in our soils. Bands of somekind work much more efficiently. Grant Corley

Broad Casting "Potash"

Wed, 27 Feb 2008 12:08:32 -0600

I recently read an article by a Midwest University crops and soils instructor. The article was about the application of "Potash" on no-tilled corn ground. He stated that broad casting Potash on no-tilled corn ground prior to planting beans was not a very effective way of applying Potash on no-tilled corn ground. The article stopped me in my tracks a bit... I will be no-tilling beans into corn ground this spring. My soil samples call for 100#s of Potash per acre. I have a modified John Deere 7000 8 row (30") corn planter that is now an 8 row (19") no=till bean planter with no fertilizer attachments. My plan was to broadcast the Potash. I'm looking for some advice, testimonials, experience etc. Thanks a bunch...

Reply to sidress on planter

Wed, 27 Feb 2008 06:47:00 -0600

Dan, I have been running an all Martin set up on my planter. I run the floating trash wheels and just behind them, I use the Martin fertilizer coulter. It comes as a unit, I run the coulter 3 " to the side and and 3/4" below the bottom of the seed trench. I use Keeton seed firmers appling my starter in furrow and followed by the spiked closing wheels and drag chains. I use 1000 gal tanks on the tractor for the nit and 400 gal tanks on the planter for the starter. The one thing that we have been doing now for several years is strip till in the fall. We apply the P & K with some N in between the row, which leaves a very nice seedbed to plant into next spring and all my nutrients are in a zone where they need to be. The yeilds will speak for theirselves. I bought my martin equipment from Dave Moeller, a great guy to work with. Good Luck ! Denny

Reply to No-till corn into alfalfa

Tue, 26 Feb 2008 18:37:10 -0600

I have been doing corn into sods for over 25 years now. Watch insect pressure closely, it might be very much worth while to just plan on a good wide spectrum soil insecticide. Wireworms, sod webworms, and various minor pests can just make life interesting. Poncho 250 on seed is a given. Grasses can be tough to take down in spring as they are growing from root reserves and you will need a good soil active herbicide.

Reply to No-till corn into alfalfa

Tue, 26 Feb 2008 15:56:53 -0600

Here is one reply for you: "KILL SOD ASAP, do not play nice, 2 qts generic glyphosate, 1 pt 2,4-D, 1 # atrazine, 20 gpa carrier, flood it lots of coverage. Use a RR, LL or CL hybrid, trash whippers are good, finger closing wheel well worth the money. 15 gpa of 30% N beside row, decomposition of grasses will eat up a pile of N early in the growing season."

Reply to No-till corn into alfalfa

Tue, 26 Feb 2008 13:36:02 -0600

If you get it killed you should have no more problems and probably less than corn after corn in my experience. Lots of guys have done this and I will try to get an answer from them to you.

2008 Conference PDF file

Tue, 26 Feb 2008 13:33:37 -0600

Got mine yesterday and looked at my presentation again to see how it looked. I could not get out of the PDF file when done viewing my slides. Did you get your CD yet and what do you think of this new additon to the NoTill Conference? I am sure there were many requests for this new offering.

Reply to conventional tillage neighbor thinking

Tue, 26 Feb 2008 13:30:27 -0600

That is generally what we experience but sounds like you got a good response quickly Matt. Your soils must have already been in pretty good shape, not tilled to death like some.

Reply to sidress on planter

Tue, 26 Feb 2008 13:28:29 -0600

Most use the JD single disk opener on the front of the planter to apply let's say 20 gallons of 28 and 5 gallons of thiosulfate to the side of the row, most use 2 inches. Martin has good products so call them about their knife, I don't have any experience with them. Dave Moeller makes a good one too so you can call him about his. All three could do what you want to do. Sidedress to me means sidedressing small corn so I am sure you mean on planter application of N.

No-till corn into alfalfa

Sat, 23 Feb 2008 15:23:33 -0600

I am looking for suggestions on how to do a great job of no-tilling corn into 5-6 year old alfalfa stands with some brome grass. I have heard that no-till can work in this situation but I'm having a hard time convincing myself to try it. We have sandy to clay soils on rolling to steeps hills. In past I typically deep chisel then disk once before planting. My tillage method has worked well for me yield wise but with high fuel prices has become expensive. I have a JD 7200 planter with Dawn coulter/whipper combos that I've used for no-tilling corn on corn. Any comments or suggestions? Thank You, Rex Cargill

Reply to conventional tillage neighbor thinking

Tue, 12 Feb 2008 21:28:54 -0600

In soils that have been no-tilled for only 2 years on my farm I can see better structure already. Last fall we had 10 days of wet weather. I was able to shell corn if the corn stalks got dry in the afternoons while the neighbors were sitting idle in their conventionally tilled fields because they had a slop hole. Even the semi was able to drive IN THE FIELD without a problem.

Reply to In furrow fertilizer

Tue, 12 Feb 2008 21:23:28 -0600

Currently I am only able to run a 2x2 placement of liquid fertilizer on the planter, other than that I have a liquid tool bar to side dress with and some pivots to put fert though. I would love to try some strip tillage. We have sandy soils so I would do it in the spring with some polymer coated urea and some P, K and S. I have been trying to get a demo of a strip till unit up here but I havent had any luck for two years. Our soils are very shallow. The A horizon is only about 6-8 inches deep, so I don't think I would go much more than 5 inches deep.

Reply to Dandelion Control

Tue, 12 Feb 2008 19:19:42 -0600

Correct answer. Fall is by far the best time to get those nasty pest's. Before we understood them better we on ocasion used 3 qts. glyphosate in the spring and only moderatly took care of them. But with a qt.+ and 2-4D in the fall it just wipes them out!!!!!!!!!!!! Have to remember, in the spring things are coming up and in the fall they are going down. Donn E. Branton

Reply to conventional tillage neighbor thinking

Tue, 12 Feb 2008 19:12:31 -0600

Wow is right Ed, My nieghbor who is 89 and farmed all his life until i started renting his land 23 years ago thought i was nuts doing reduced till and no-till. But, one day he came over and commended us because his garden does not get flooded any more when we get heavy rains that used to run out of the fields. Now when we get heavy rains it seems that the neighbors who still use conv. till have all the ponds, and the veg. processor has even noticed that they can harvest on reduce tilled ground quicker and easier than conv. groung. So-- finally some others are starting to see some perks beside ourselves.

Reply to In furrow fertilizer

Tue, 12 Feb 2008 19:02:35 -0600

Hello Matt, What other application methods do you have to apply your nutrients to your crop ?? By banding your fertilizer you gain increased efficiency. We have been applying our starter/pop-up in the seed furrow for a number of years and yes we only use 5 gpa. Have been using different fertilizer blends, 10-34-0, 9-28-5 , 7-25-3 and a 6-24-6 with the last two being clears. We have done strip trials and so far have seen little difference other than cost. Also have had strips with out any row applied starter on sweet corn and even with very high phos. soil test have seen about a 5 day lag in tassel emergence. We have our planter set up to apply the product in the bottom of the seed trench before the seed is dropped in place and don't put it through our seed firmers. Donn E. Branton

In furrow fertilizer

Mon, 11 Feb 2008 20:29:34 -0600

I just got my first issue of NTF. I was reading one of the articles and it mentioned in furrow fertilizer. Personally I have a real hard time putting fertilizer right in the seed trench. I don't think that a safe amount (up to 5 gallons/ac for me) would do that much for my crop, personally I think it would do more harm tahn good under the right conditions. I am talking about clear fertilizer, not the green stuff. Could someone try to convince me otherwise? So far this has been one of the best magazines I have read.

Reply to Dandelion Control

Mon, 11 Feb 2008 10:21:01 -0600

I agree, fall spray is best. If you have dandys in spring hit them harder with glyphosate and 2,4D when they are small. Do not go light on rates on dandys, you won't get them.

Reply to Last chance farmer.

Mon, 11 Feb 2008 07:57:14 -0600

Paul is right, get it level. Send a soil sample for testing to www.midwestlabs.com and ask for yield recommendations for the crops you want to plant. Lime and fertilize accordingly within your budget. Leveling and a cover crop would have been great last summer but you have to start somewhere. Ed Winkle

Reply to Phoenix Rotary Harrow

Mon, 11 Feb 2008 07:38:46 -0600

Here is a start: http://www.tractorhouse.com/listings/forsale/list.asp?catid=1131&man=PHOENIX http://www.npend.com/salespl%20phoenix.htm http://www.google.com/search?q=phoenix+rotary+harrow+dealers&hl=en&rlz=1T4SUNA_enUS245US246&start=10&sa=N

Reply to conventional tillage neighbor thinking

Mon, 11 Feb 2008 07:34:24 -0600

Wow, one to two tons notill erosion versus ten or more tons with tillage? Do some farmers really understand science or just refuse to change? Data is everywhere, Lessiter has tons of publications. We try to lead with our fields. I have less erosion and better soil health of anyone around here. Several people visited again this year and they all said, you can just see you are going to Ed's place by the crop, the color and the soil. You probably can't help him until he sees your fields are better and starts asking questions. That is my experience, Ben. Ed Winkle

conventional tillage neighbor thinking

Fri, 01 Feb 2008 19:37:23 -0600

I have a conventional tillage neighbor that says he will never notill because it causes more flooding and run off making more erosion. He thinks that the notill soils are already full with moisture and can't hold as much water as conventional tilled soil. I've always thought the opposite. Is there any truth to what he says? What information can i give him to convince him otherwise.

bt corn

Fri, 01 Feb 2008 19:16:28 -0600

can anyone tell me if bt corn will hurt my earthworms if they touch the corn roots..this would also apply to poncho250 poncho 1250. i noticed no deer damage in all my bt corn acres. help would be apprecated

nitrogen at planting

Thu, 31 Jan 2008 00:35:31 -0600

For Todd West, my correct home page that shows how we are puting down nitrogen at planting time is bigrivertel.net/~planpher sorry for the mistake, Paul Lanpher

Reply to JD750 update

Tue, 29 Jan 2008 18:28:40 -0600

You could probally do a search on the web,but If I remember right SI distributing sells a kit that you can take your 15' 750 with 7.5 spacing and transform it into a 20' with 10" spacing and you don't need and additional openers.

sidress on planter

Tue, 29 Jan 2008 17:53:59 -0600

Last year I went to nutill/martin setup on jd7000 6-30 planter that used to have dry fert. I put liquid starter on through the keetons. My question is what is the best way to sidress 28. Do the martin fert coulter work or is there a better system. One other thing switching fert dealers they told me to stop fall broadcasting p&k said it will never get down into the soil is this true or bull thanx dan

Cast Iron Closing Wheels

Sun, 27 Jan 2008 23:38:39 -0600

For Sale: 31 lightly used JD Cast Iron Closing Wheels for JD Planter. Purchased planter with them installed and don't need them. Will Consider offers. Thanks 507-360-3119 - cell

Reply to Coulters VS Row Cleaners

Sat, 26 Jan 2008 19:30:12 -0600

I have another question, everyone talks about using RID gauge wheels and then on the other side of the spectrum, there are countless kits to fix worn out gauge wheel control arm bushings so that the gauge wheels will stay right next to the opener, Why would a gauge wheel with a worn bushing that is running away from the opener, theoretically not give the same sidewall lift as a RID wheel?? I actually have SI distributings ajustable bushing on my planter so I could set the gauge wheel away from the opener if I wanted??? Im just being Curious!

Reply to Coulters VS Row Cleaners

Sat, 26 Jan 2008 19:12:12 -0600

I havent decided on the RID gauge wheels yet. Ive heard good and bad about them ( air pockets and the seed getting beside the firmer) and probably am only going to put them on a couple rows for a test plot this year to see if they will make a difference in my conditions and are worth the hastle of changing or not. We usually dont plant over 5mph though depending on seed size because we are using finger meters, What speed did you have in mind when you said slow?

Reply to Martin Row cleanersVs. Yetter

Thu, 24 Jan 2008 07:18:14 -0600

I agree with you Ed. We took no-till coulter off as we were getting double bump as well as having trouble getting row unit in ground when it got hard and dry. We are completely martin from front to back. floaters,double disk,rid tires,keetons,spiked closers,drag chain. Love the system benn this way for 6 years. . West central NYS have evertything from blue clay. to gravel Dick

Reply to Coulters VS Row Cleaners

Wed, 23 Jan 2008 07:09:00 -0600

Matt C, You might want to go slow with the RID gauge tires -- they often cause more problems than they solve. http://exapta.com/knowledge/tipplanter.html (scroll down the page)

Phoenix Rotary Harrow

Tue, 22 Jan 2008 20:45:08 -0600

Does anyone know a dealer in the upper midwest that sells the Phoenix Rotary Harrow? I saw on a newsgroup that someone just purchased a new one and I am interested in pricing one. Thanks for any help!

Reply to Coulters VS Row Cleaners

Tue, 22 Jan 2008 18:28:39 -0600

Matt I did that this spring for a neighbor with good success. I used martin floating row cleaners and no coulters. We deep placed NPK in the fall then I planted part of it at an angle to the fertilizer rows and split the rows with the rest. I also had two martin closing wheels on the back.

Reply to Martin Row cleanersVs. Yetter

Tue, 22 Jan 2008 08:35:22 -0600

Ed are you at all concerned about compaction? Tim Fichtel

Reply to John deer disk

Tue, 22 Jan 2008 06:47:49 -0600

At 16.25 inches, they needed to be replaced awhile back. Look carefully at the seed boot, too.

John deer disk

Tue, 22 Jan 2008 02:18:23 -0600

Looking to buy a 750 JD drill, disk openers measure 16 1/4. I need to know how small the disk can be worn before needing replaced.

Reply to No-Tilling CRP Ground

Mon, 21 Jan 2008 20:49:05 -0600

Thanks for the responses. Since my original post I have decided to go with beans; Pioneer 94M80. The local coop applied a burndown of touchdown and 24D in the latter part of November; I was a little worried that it was too late to be very effective but it has died down nicely. I received the results from my soils tests; most of the acreage has a ph in the 6.2-6.5 range with two fields testing low at 5.8. At this stage I am going to wait to apply lime since the ground is too soft right now. In the past I have used an innoculent called nitra-stick(sp?); seemed to work well, however, I have not done any side by side yield comparisons. Again, thanks for the help.

Coulters VS Row Cleaners

Mon, 21 Jan 2008 20:05:02 -0600

I raise fescue for seed production and, this spring I will be notilling corn into fescue grass sod for the first time. Everything I have heard suggests straight row cleaners over both coulters or coulter/row cleaner combinations ( which is also my experience in residues such as corn on corn or into full wheat stubble, where there is a lot of residue on the surface but the soil has some tilth underneath). My situation is: I will have very little surface residue, but the ground is completely root bound with the remaining crowns of dead plants, I was wondering if anyone had any experience with notilling into killed perennial grasses, and if so would they recommend row cleaners or coulters for getting through the root masses?? (On the back I have keetons with a mojo wire, being closed with one martin closing wheel and one dimple wheel, with a drag chain, and plan to have reduced inner diameter gauge wheels by spring) any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Reply to Martin Row cleanersVs. Yetter

Mon, 21 Jan 2008 15:44:47 -0600

I know what you mean. I used to wait for the ground to dry out and I missed my good planting dates. When I listened to Paul Reed I took the coulters off and now plant when it is damp, almost tacky, get much better yields. If you are dead set you need coulters, keep them. Can you lift them up or take them off and try some early beans? When I need them now after 13 years I missed my good planting yield window. Best advice I can give you but do what you feel comfortable with.

Reply to Martin Row cleanersVs. Yetter

Mon, 21 Jan 2008 12:02:42 -0600

one follow up to this we have the not till coulters on the planter ( JD 1750) would you leave them on. They saved our skin last spring as it was dry and the ground was hard making it extremely difficult to get the seed in the ground Thanks Tim Fichtel

Reply to No-Tilling CRP Ground

Sun, 20 Jan 2008 13:32:43 -0600

I think you will do well with either with the right planter setup. The soil test results could tell you a lot. Typically I prefer a legume after a grass crop but you can make corn work well there depending on your marketing and management. Be sure to inoculate well if you notill soybeans.

Reply to Martin Row cleanersVs. Yetter

Sun, 20 Jan 2008 13:29:49 -0600

Martin cleans better because of its patented diamond tooth hard steel, and lasts longer in my opinion. I don't see how you can beat their wheel compared to the ones I have seen.

Reply to Martin Row cleanersVs. Yetter

Fri, 18 Jan 2008 07:09:59 -0600

Hello ! I have the Martin Floating Row Cleaners on my planter. I had the rigid row cleaners but when I went to strip till and added the fertilizer coulters, I needed the row cleaners to be able to float, to give the near perfect seed bed throughout the field. I have been 100% corn on corn for couple years now and they have worked great. One down fall is if you had to work the ground, to take out some ruts, they will dig in. Do that work in the fall if possible, then no problem. Before I always set the cleaners so they would only remove the residue and very little dirt. With the floaters, the way they are designed, you will move more dirt but, it does make a very nice even smooth spot to plant into. I am Martin front to back and very happy with everything.

Reply to No-Tilling CRP Ground

Thu, 17 Jan 2008 13:02:18 -0600

I have had good luck with beans in the past. I have seen some people go with corn but you need more luck and more rain to make work out . corn the year after beans works very well to

Martin Row cleanersVs. Yetter

Thu, 17 Jan 2008 12:39:58 -0600

Does any one have an opinion on Martin Floating Row Cleaners vs. Yetter Shark tooth. We are 100% notill and currently have fixed yetter row cleaners. want to update and need to decide soon. Thanks Tim Fichtel

Reply to Ih guage wheels

Tue, 15 Jan 2008 16:49:49 -0600

I wouldn't try that but if you do, tell us your results. The Martin wheels till gently beside and below the seed to give the trench a garden like, crumbly result. They are merely 13 residue wheels mounted backwards which makes perfect sense once you see them work. Non RID tires were designed for tillage so in true one pass strip till this system works best together. If you set your planter or drill up correctly, they won't spit out seeds. You may need to shim the wheels farther apart or move them closer to each other for more tillage. I don't see any advantage to the Curvetine Wheels, I would rather have the rubber. They do little in my observerations compared to the true spading wheel. They are like using a 4 hp tiller when you need a 10 hp for your garden. If you like them, go for them but I don't see combining wheels when a set works best. Ed Winkle

Reply to Phos &Potash In Notill

Tue, 15 Jan 2008 16:42:27 -0600

Start taking tissue tests and see what your crop is uptaking under your weather, soil and management conditions. I have bumped my yield quite a bit doing this and being rewarded with nice soybean prices. Makes that $18 test quite a nice investment. Sample early if you want but sample again at the right time, first flower to pod set. Walk your fields and pluck the top trifoliates or cut the whole plant for analysis. Labs are pretty consistent on tissue test results.

Reply to Dandelion Control

Tue, 15 Jan 2008 16:34:39 -0600

Fall control works best. They have wintered over when you hit them in the spring, hit them with the same in the fall before it gets real cold. I wiped mine out, you can too.

Dandelion Control

Mon, 14 Jan 2008 18:57:27 -0600

How do I control dandelions in soybean fields? I have a couple of fields in which I can't seem to control them. I have been using glyphosate at 3 pints per acre and 2,4-D ester at 1 pint per acre as a burndown. In one field I did a small plot with the same spray a couple of weeks later and the dandelions survived although they were burned. Thanks.

Reply to Ih guage wheels

Sun, 13 Jan 2008 07:54:29 -0600

Wally, I forgot to respond to your last item. Yes, some spoked closing wheel designs have a tendency to pull seeds loose. These are predominately the ones with long slender spokes. You can chop the ends off the spokes, or go to wheels with more appropriately shaped spokes. ====== Matt Hagny, consulting agronomist since '94, founder Exapta Solutions ('99)

Reply to Ih guage wheels

Sun, 13 Jan 2008 07:50:09 -0600

Wally, Not everyone agrees that the indented gauge tire is an improvement for the JD/Kinze/White planters. This topic has been discussed heavily in this forum and others (search the archives). For a quick synopsis of the troubles with indented gauge tires, see this page (scroll down): http://exapta.com/knowledge/tipplanter.html As for the firming and closing actions, you really are better off to keep those separate. Seed firming is best accomplished at the seed location. Then you can have loose soil over the seed, which is desirable. Best regards, ====== Matt Hagny, consulting agronomist since '94, founder Exapta Solutions ('99)

Reply to Ih guage wheels

Sat, 12 Jan 2008 22:04:13 -0600

Has anyone used a martin on one side and a dawn on the other side? Are they even the same size? I am thinking that would give some seed firming as will as the closing from the bottom up with the Martins. I do some planting for the guy next to me, he likes to disk 1st. Would the set up of both of them give me good preformance in both my no till and his disk fields? I have some contours to plant on all my ground, kind of thinking the Martins might pull out some seeds if I put them both on?

Reply to Phos &Potash In Notill

Thu, 10 Jan 2008 09:29:23 -0600

pH won't have any effect on crop N-usage efficiency, unless the pH is at such an extreme that the plants are outright unhealthy from iron chlorosis (high pH) or aluminum toxicity (low pH). As for P efficiency, again the range of tolerable pH is fairly wide. There will be a small advantage to pH of 6 - 6.5 as opposed to 5.5 or something. Raising the pH even slightly is detrimental to most micronutrient uptake. It can be disastrous for Zn uptake, in particular. Summary: There's probably more profit to be had from managing each nutrient than there is from trying to obtain some magical pH value that someone claims will unlock your soil's fertility or biology or whatever. ===== Matt Hagny, consulting agronomist since '94, founder of Exapta Solutions ('99)

Reply to Planter Closing wheels

Thu, 10 Jan 2008 09:17:44 -0600

Ed, With all due respect, many producers were doing low-disturbance NT before it was called "nu-till" -- the components (low-disturbance fertilizer opener, row cleaner, Keeton or seed-lock wheel, pop-up fertilizer delivery, and spoked closing wheel) have been available since the early 1990s from a number of manufacturers. Martin has been on the scene a long time and commands some market share just because of that early presence, plus their relationship with AgSpectrum and other dealer networks. Doesn't mean their stuff is best, just marketed heavily. I realize they have a lot of happy customers. So does Exapta. I would encourage everyone to evaluate all products (OEM and aftermarket) on the merits. Respectfully, ===== Matt Hagny, consulting agronomist since '94, founder of Exapta Solutions ('99)

Reply to Ih guage wheels

Wed, 09 Jan 2008 06:23:42 -0600

Gee Wally, I used to have that part number memorized but that was years ago! The patent went off so others make that tire now too. There is a heavier rubber that last longer and there is a softer rubber that does a better job in the Martin setup. You can contact Howard Martin at Martin Industries in Ky or his top dealer at Moeller Ag Supply in Iowa and they can explain this and get you what you need. Frank calls Dave Moeller "Doc" because he and his cousins and Howard and his sons pioneered this advanced notill setup and have advised thousands of farmers how to plant better without tillage. They are both listed on Tim Reinhart's Ag Links: http://www.agri-links.com/link.html Discount houses like Shoup and R E Skillings carry whatever they can get the best price on. I see the Keeton is over thirty dollars now. http://reskillings.com/ Hope this helps and happy notilling! See you guys at NNTC today in Cincinnati! Ed Winkle

Reply to Ih guage wheels

Tue, 08 Jan 2008 12:16:33 -0600

Would someone happen to have the part number for the IH guage wheels. I talked to the IH dealer today, but he was not sure one the wheel that would fit on the JD planter. Thanks again Wally.

Ih guage wheels

Mon, 07 Jan 2008 11:13:27 -0600

Will the IH guage wheels fit on the JD 7000 hub? If so what's the best way to put them on? Thanks, Wally Kuntz.

Reply to gypsum

Mon, 31 Dec 2007 18:21:08 -0600

I have had excellant results using qypsum at 300-400lbs per acre in low heavy areas. This is small areas that we tried to deep rip, patern tile and it was still tight, cold and weedy. These are areas where your soil test shows a higher mg to ca ratio. The mg attaches tightly to clay and the sulfer in the qypsum will bump off the mg and allow the soil to loosen. I have been doing some areas for 7 years with excellant results. Look at your soil test and if base saturation for mg is around 30% and ca is down in the 60's you will have tight soils. If mg to ca ratio is 1 to 4 you will have loose soils. John

Reply to gypsum

Sun, 30 Dec 2007 19:38:35 -0600

Stockton, Iowa and northern Indiana are not in South Dakota. Different soil. There is something about internal drainage within the soil required for gypsum to work. In my part of South Dakota almost all rainfall entering the soil leaves through the plants or by evaporation, not internal drainage. Gypsum would benefit the fertilizer dealer, but not my farm. 1500 pounds per acre of gypsum would not be totally destroyed by a little field cultivation. I will buy that lunch if you can point out research proving dryland soils in Lyman County, South Dakota will respond to 300-1500 pounds gypsum per acre. I don't know what type of soils Mr Brubaker farms. Apology's for late response.

Reply to Nitrogen at planting

Sat, 29 Dec 2007 21:52:16 -0600

I agree with your fertilizer rep and Mr. Hagny. That is too far away to accomplish what you want to do. We do some weed and feed but that can be iffy. Without spending money on a different planter or modifications, I can't give you a better answer. Ed Winkle

Reply to Planter Closing wheels

Fri, 28 Dec 2007 00:24:08 -0600

Are the square-edged chains necesary or would a good heavy smooth chain work for drag chains behind the rows? Thanks!

Reply to cover crops after wheat harvest

Thu, 27 Dec 2007 07:25:51 -0600

We are seeing 30-40 bushels more notill corn yields planting forage radishes after wheat, over ryegrass, oats and combinations of radishes. They are being called Tillage radishes in our region and give great tilth and energy for the following crops after wheat. This is where wheat in rotation gives us another great tool in a notill rotation.

Reply to Nitrogen at planting

Thu, 27 Dec 2007 07:22:10 -0600

If there is an answer to Binstock's question, I would like to here it also.

Reply to Phos &Potash In Notill

Thu, 27 Dec 2007 07:19:59 -0600

I agree with Matt. The main thing I would concerned about is proper pH throughout my farms. With these fertilizer prices, the implications of non desirable pH is huge. Soil test with the right soil test for your soil, pull tissue samples at flowering. Set a fertilizer budget and apply needed nutrients at price you can afford for ALL nutrients, even if it less than your yield goal. This should be a hot topic at the NNTC in Cincinnati in two weeks.

Reply to Planter Closing wheels

Thu, 27 Dec 2007 07:16:48 -0600

Your last paragraph exactly describes what the Martin system does, Matt. We tried a lot of different attachments before we settled on that one. I would be surprised if it is not the number one planter attachment setup in this country. That doesn't mean it is best for everyone, lots of farmers seem to be quite happy with their original manufactured notill planter. I was not. I had to wait too long to let the soil dry enough to keep the coulter from slabbing my soil, changing my plant roots and reducing my yield.

Reply to Planter Closing wheels

Tue, 25 Dec 2007 07:18:50 -0600

If you think about the shape of the spoke/tine as it engages the soil, you will get some idea of the pros and cons of each design. Long slender spokes (row cleaner wheels) tend to go deep and do lots of lifting and flinging of soil chunks. Sometimes they can pull seeds out. Doesn't matter which direction they're installed, they still have this tendency. Spacing them farther from the row helps alleviate it. Some people have gone so far as to chop about 1.25" off the end of each spoke to make them stop digging so deep. Some other designs have a relatively flat 'foot' engaging the soil, which results in relatively little sidewall breakage and too much packing over the seed. In some conditions, they work well, however. If you are doing true no-till, your best choice will involve slicing a clean furrow, firming the seed at the bottom of the trench, and then closing gently by crumbling. ===== Matt Hagny, consulting agronomist since '94, founder of Exapta Solutions ('99)

Reply to international cyclo 800 planter

Mon, 24 Dec 2007 14:20:35 -0600

Coulters are definatly not required for the Early Riser opener system. I run fixed row cleaners, Rebounders, and one JS serrated closing disk with the serrations in the foward(most agressive) position, one stock closing disk, with heavy duty down pressure springs on the closing disk arm. I have used this system getting near perfect stands in corn. Any time the ground is dry enough to disk it is dry enough to plant with this system.

Reply to Nitrogen at planting

Mon, 24 Dec 2007 07:52:24 -0600

18 inches is a long way, but it would probably suffice since you've got some pop-up to carry the plant a little while. I think you would be better off just dribbling the N on the surface about 5 inches from the row, unless you are in a really dry climate. Or you could surface-apply the N a few weeks prior to planting.

Reply to Phos &Potash In Notill

Mon, 24 Dec 2007 07:47:20 -0600

Stratification is *normal* -- don't worry about it. The crops will grow just fine.

Reply to Nitrogen at planting

Sun, 23 Dec 2007 21:41:26 -0600

12-23-07 Paul Lanpher in response to Todd West. We have been putting down a full rate of nitrogen with our spring strip-till machine and planting corn the same day for the past 6 or 7 years. The C-Jet spreads the nitrogen under the seedbed where the corn plant will get it quickly, but far enough from the seed where it doesn't hurt the corn plant. For more information on spring strip-till, visit web page www.bigriver.net/~planpher. I hope you find something here that will help you grow more corn. Paul Lanpher.

Nitrogen at planting

Sat, 22 Dec 2007 21:59:39 -0600

I was wanting to put down some N at planting. Here is my situation: My planter is wing-fold JD 7000, and the way it folds there is no room for fertilizer openers. So last year for popup I went with in-furrow through Keetons (which was great), then side-dressed 28% with a set of cultivators. My planter was built for beans: 8 row 36" with 9 other units in between to make it a 17 row 18" planter. I just shut off the 9 rows and planted 8 rows of corn with it, and then went back to plant beans. I am going to put in-furrow fertilizer with Keetons on the other 9 rows for the beans anyway. For corn, if I put 28% through the odd rows at planting (and then go back in later for a split application), that would mean the N would be 18" from the corn rows. Is that too far away that early? Obviously when you side-dress you run down the centers, but the roots are more developed and the N can get to them quicker. I just had this thought this fall when trying to think of a better way to split apply my N. My fertilizer salesman/ soil tester was a little leary of doing it, so I just wanted to get some other feedback. Thanks much!

Reply to Planter Closing wheels

Sat, 22 Dec 2007 21:35:14 -0600

I have a set of Martin closing wheels to put on. I was wondering which would be best: 2 spiked closing wheels or 1 spiked and 1 rubber? And if one of each, how does that help if they are both about the same diameter? Thanks, Todd

Reply to Phos &Potash In Notill

Wed, 19 Dec 2007 11:50:44 -0600

Speaking of statification... I recently sampled a long-term no-till field at 0-6" and 0-2". Yields on this field have been disappionting. Results of the 0-6" sample are: salt pH - 5.8, P - 47 lb/a, K - 235 lb/a, Ca - 2820 lb/a, Mg - 570 lb/a, CEC - 11.7, O.M. - 2.8. The 0-2" shows pH - 6.4, P - 121, K - 416, Ca - 3253, Mg - 555, CEC - 11.5, O.M. - 3.6. Should I be concerned about this amount of stratification and if so how do I fix it without iron?

Reply to GreenStar GPS

Wed, 12 Dec 2007 21:02:30 -0600

You will never get this system to work. You are not the only one. My neighbor and I bought this same system new and deere never could make either system work. We had the same problems you are having. After two years of frustration my neighbor sold his system and after four years of excuses from my dealer an deere I finally gave up and threw mine in the trash. I now go to all the farm shows that I can and stand by the deere booth and advertise for them until everyone leaves. I never got anything but excuses from deere.

Reply to Breaking spindles on SDX30

Tue, 11 Dec 2007 21:34:32 -0600

I have had same problem on a 2002 SDX starting 2 years ago at about 10000 acres.Last winter upgraded too the next generation spindle using old hubs and new bearings and seals.Big project.I would like to hear if you are still using the SDX.

Reply to Nitrogen at planting

Sun, 09 Dec 2007 13:42:38 -0600

I would like to switch our JD 1895 drill over to NH3,from urea. Just wondering is there any noticeable leaching? And are there a specific opener that works the best as far as freezing to the disc,and closing the furrow

Reply to gypsum

Mon, 03 Dec 2007 08:06:20 -0600

Thanks for your input Ed. I was wondering how that research data in the other post applied to me. I'm in northern Indiana and I'm unaware of any soil salt problems around here. Mark Brubaker

Reply to gypsum

Sun, 02 Dec 2007 15:35:10 -0600

That data is useless. The experiment was done incorrectly as much research is done today. You broadcast gypsum on top, not field cultivate it in. How can this link be important to no-till? Take a trip to the Stockton Iowa exit and travel north of I-80 about a mile. Tell me gypsum doesn't work in notill and I owe you lunch.

Reply to gypsum

Wed, 28 Nov 2007 21:55:04 -0600

Most soils in South Dakota would not respond to gypsum. Check this website from the state college: http://plantsci.sdstate.edu/soiltest/data2004/PR%2004-13%20gypsumse04%20pr.pdf Keith Dorman

JD guage wheel tire

Sat, 24 Nov 2007 15:36:03 -0600

What is the best method to be sure the bearing is centered when replacing the guage wheel tire. I have to take apart and do over to get the wheel to spin true and not wobble. Thanks.

Reply to gypsum

Sat, 24 Nov 2007 10:07:46 -0600

In no-till, gypsum spread on top of the soil is one of the quickest ways you can improve soil and water movement. Research shows that 35 lbs of gypsum per inch of rainfall improves air and water movement 300-500% depending on soil type. Many in agriculture are not up to date on this research but I know for a fact in works and can point you to farms who use it successfully. My problem is availability and cost of transportation. Since gypsum is used in wallboard, those contracts use up most of our gypsum supply. Don't be afraid of the synthetic gypsum manufactured by scrubbing stacks in coal fired electricity generation. That is some of the best product I have seen. It is highly regulated and tested. If you have standing water problems, gypsum will repair that problem. I have a friend in Iowa who hauls it and uses it on his farm and he has the best tilth and good yields on a low input system. It really pays for him. Gypsum is neutral pH so I think your dealer doesn't understand the product or perhaps basic chemistry. It is not a lime product like high calcium or dolomitic lime.

Reply to Last chance farmer.

Wed, 14 Nov 2007 06:58:54 -0600

Sorry it took so long to response-I don't check in here often. To be succsessful in no-till you need to get the ruts out BEFORE you start farming it. Take a disk-if you don't own one hire someone to do it-and get it level. I had to do that the 1st year I started because the ground had been heavily cultivated the previous year. From then on you will find that after a couple years the ground will be much firmer and the structure will support the equipment without rutting. And if at all possible stay out of the field when it is extremely wet.

international cyclo 800 planter

Tue, 13 Nov 2007 16:23:20 -0600

I am new to no till and have a lot of questions I currently no till some wheat and sudan grass with a 5100 int soybean special drill with a yetter no till cutter mounted in front of drill. I would like to no till milo and soybeans this spring with a 6 -30 international 800 air planter. The book shows that you can buy cutters that mount on the frame of the planter. Is this all that is required to convert this planter ( I have not priced this yet). Before I do this I would like some input from others. Is this planter a good no till unit (is it heavy enough?) Will additional parts be nescessary to make it work. I only farm about 120 crop acres so I dont want to spend an incredible amount of money making conversions.

using to much ground moisture?

Wed, 07 Nov 2007 21:33:09 -0600

I planted milo into a just harvested wheat field around the end of june, my neighbor said that probably wasn't a good idea. He didn't think i'd have enough ground moisture for soybeans i'll plant in the spring. But what would be the difference between milo, and lets say annual ryegrass planted in the fall. I would think the ryegrass would take out more ground moisture than the milo, since it grows all winter, and into the spring! Do you think i'll run into any ground moisture problems with this cropping practice?

Reply to evidence based research

Thu, 01 Nov 2007 01:54:24 -0500

Jim. I suggest that you contact the Pacific NW Direct Seed Association. They have an office in Moscow Id. They are a great bunch of guys from all over the Palouse who are making no-till in the work. They can also direct you to ag researchers at WSU and the U of Idaho. I have heard of landlords putting requirements for no-till right in their leases and I suspect you will have plenty of offers on such a lease. Here is a a link to the NW Direct Seed Association. Email addresses and phone numbers should be on the site. http://www.directseed.org/

JD750 update

Fri, 26 Oct 2007 07:28:25 -0500

I have used a 15' JD750 drill for the past 10 years and have an opportunity to purchase some used 1560 openers that I can put under my drill frame. I remember reading an article in no-till farmer about someone who widened out the row spacing to add a couple extra feet to the overall width of the drill. Has anyone done this or know where I can find information on how it was down?

No-Tilling CRP Ground

Sun, 21 Oct 2007 17:31:30 -0500

Hi everyone, this is my first time posting here but have been reading some of the threads on this site for some time. I farm in Southern Illinois in Pope Co. I have the opportunity to pick up some additional acreage that has been in CRP for approx. 20 years. Hay was taken off of it this past year as their was a shortage and the local FSA office allowed CRP ground to be cut for hay. I intend to apply a burndown this fall to give time for the sod to breakdown. I haven't had a chance to perform soil tests yet, but with harvest just wrapping up I plan on getting it done soon. This will be my first time no-tilling into CRP ground. What would be a better crop to go with for this first year, corn or beans? I have the equipment capabilities to no-till either crop. Any adivice is greatly appreciated. Thanks for your help.

gypsum

Wed, 17 Oct 2007 21:08:47 -0500

I'm interested in adding some gypsum to some of my fields as an experiment. I have read of the potential benefits. My fertilizer dealer, who I've known and trusted for years, is dead-set against it. He says gypsum will wreck my ph levels. Can anybody offer some first-hand experience on the use of gypsum? Thanks Mark Brubaker

Scrapers

Mon, 08 Oct 2007 06:55:00 -0500

evidence based research

Thu, 04 Oct 2007 22:24:26 -0500

I have a wheat farm in the Palouse region of Northeast Wa state. half of my ground has been leased out to a no-tiller with 30+ years of experience for the past 8 years, the other half is leased out to a "conventional" farmer (for the last 2 generations). We want the conventional land no-tilled ,but want to convince the current farmer to switch methods. This has not gone over well. No-till got a bad rap in this region about 30ish years ago by a few experimenters that lost a lot of money and didn't stick it out long enough to work out the system. any suggestions and facts about how to to hold up our decision that no-till is better in the long haul would be greatly appreciated as the new lease is coming due this year.

Reply to In-row fertilizer

Fri, 14 Sep 2007 12:34:11 -0500

I use Keetons with redballs and an electric pump and it works great.When I went from dry starter to liquid in the row I bought new Keeton tails set up for liquid, snapped them on, plumbed them in and haven't looked back.

Reply to Wheat mess this year, seeking input?

Fri, 24 Aug 2007 21:48:34 -0500

Hello, I live in north central oklahoma and experienced the same situation as you derscribed. In years past I would have burned off the wheat and not worried, but I made a decision last year to start into no-till this year. I went over all my ground with a batwing 15 foot mower, some after spraying and some before. The mower cut the matted wheat away and shattered the seed onto the ground. It is raining tonight so I'll see how well the seeds on the ground sprout. I am hoping to return to wheat on some acres this fall and move to grain sorghum in the spring on others. I hope to get some volunteer up before I spray more acres.

HP required for McFarlane harrow

Fri, 24 Aug 2007 21:37:22 -0500

Hello everyone, I am new to no-till this year although I have been interested for the last couple years. I have residue in some of my fields that is in narrow strips or "windrows". I would Like to spread it out prior to a burndown application. I have a 42 foot 16 bar harrow in my "tillage arsenal" that I usually pull with an 8650 4wd. My question is, can I take off 8 rows and pull it with my 4440? Or should I just use all 16 bars and the bigger tractor. Thanks in advance, Craig S.

Reply to JD 750 drill for pasture mix

Fri, 24 Aug 2007 10:17:35 -0500

Thanks Mark, I may mix some oats in with the grass seed mix to act as a nurse crop and increase the volume of seed through the meters. The residue in the field should be minimal. I'm going to use roundup with 2,4D for broadleaf here in about another week or so before I plant. Ernie

Managing corn residue for next years soybeans?

Sat, 18 Aug 2007 15:05:44 -0500

I've got some acreage in corn this year that I will plant in beans next spring. The corn will simply be bush hogged down for the deer to eat throughout the winter (I am managing my land for whitetails). What's the best way to handle the reisidue? Last year (went corn on corn) I simply ran the rototiller over the ground to help break up the stalks in march and then disced the ground to work in my N at planting time. I use a JD7000 no till planter. I don't plan on discing again next year with the beans. should I rototill the stalks? Or will the planter simply plant the beans throught the stalks? I have no row cleaners. Rebuild the entire planter this year, added keatons and precision meters, other than that nothing special. I think I have 12-13 wave coulters. Thanks for any help..

Reply to JD 750 drill for pasture mix

Fri, 17 Aug 2007 05:33:41 -0500

Will a 750 seed 1/2" deep acurately? YES. Use very little down pressure and it will work. Your heavier seed (clover) is gonna feed out first in the big box. Why don't you drill the grass seed and spread the clover in a spreader cart mixed fertilizer? I've done this many times with good success. Mark

Reply to corn head performance

Fri, 17 Aug 2007 05:27:47 -0500

I'm familiar with Pix-all type rolls, if that's the type of corn head chopping action that you are asking about. The answer to all your questions would be yes , in my opinion. Corn head induced stalk destruction should help BT stalks degrade sooner. Mark

JD 750 drill for pasture mix

Thu, 16 Aug 2007 12:11:47 -0500

Hi, I have a 15' JD 750 no-till drill without the grass attachment, but would like to plant a pasture mix. The mix is basically orchardgrass, ryegrass, and clover. Can I accurately run this mixture through the large seed box? The other thing I noticed is the seed dealer reccomends a seeding depth of 1/2" here in Pa. and I'm not sure if it will plant that shallow with the opener disk raised all the way up. Does anyone have any experience with this? By the way, I priced the grass seed kit from JD and it was $2200.00. They don't make the kit for the 750 any more, but the current model kit will work with some modification, I was told. If worse comes to worse, I can rent a Haybuster 107 to get it done. Thanks

corn head performance

Thu, 16 Aug 2007 06:31:33 -0500

Can someone compare John Deere corn head performance to Old CaseIH or to Geringhoff or Drago where the stalk roll knives come together? Is it an advantage for no-till corn on corn? Will the stalk break down quicker? OR does the material form a mat which prevents soil warm up? Does the stalk remain attached? Does the material blow and wash more ? Thanks

Hay Bales

Sun, 29 Jul 2007 17:31:38 -0500

sorry please delete

GreenStar GPS

Fri, 27 Jul 2007 14:20:37 -0500

I'm running John Deeres GreenStar GPS AutoTrac system with the SF2 signal on a Deere 8870 with a 8 row zone-till on the 3 point hitch at 4.5 MPH. Later coming with a 16 row corn planter. I am having trouble with receiving constant accuracy with the GPS system. I will be in an open field with a constant 90-100% signal and 100% accuracy. I will go for a number of passes and each one will line up with the previous pass, with a constant of 0-3 inches off, down the whole row. Then I'll get to a pass where in spots the tractor goes off 13-14 in. and nothing has changed with the signal quality or terrain of the field. Does anyone know how I can get a constant accuracy across the entire field.

Aphids

Fri, 27 Jul 2007 12:44:34 -0500

I went to the No-Till Conference in the winter and someone spoke of spraying for aphids without the use of chemicals. Or it may have been lessening the amount of chemicals and putting more of an additive in the mix. Could someone help me out with this.

Last chance farmer.

Tue, 10 Jul 2007 14:55:58 -0500

Well hello No till farmers : I hope you can bare with Me long enough to make this "Small Operation" Of Our's a No till success story ? at first I wasn't to hot on the notion of Notill farming but after I read about a farmers Success story I figured Let's do it. Because I do not rely on My Crop to sustain Me Financially trial and error won't kill Me . Now We closed on this property last July so it's sat without a crop in it since the Late fall harvest of corn 2005 so I guess it was turned sometime during the winter because it's all deep ruts now and weed . My question is what do I do to get My fields ready to go ? I've spent the last 20 yrs working for a Landscape design company so the closest I have ever been to farming was getting customers Bed's ready for plantings and Lawn installations and irrigation . I also worked every summer at Heinkers Farms {Corn, all type's of Vegetable's} But as far as My Own 30 acre crop field NO I have Not . CAN YOU HELP PLEASE ? I WANT THIS LIKE I WANTED MY FIRST PICK-UP TRUCK ! because We Own this Old Farm house {1890} which at one time was over 300 acres but over the years was sold off . I'm not going anywhere . The barns are here everything is right here even a farm pond.

Reply to Notil vs Conventional til

Thu, 05 Jul 2007 12:42:29 -0500

Ed, I took control of the ground last summer, after wheat harvest. I sprayed the ground twice before I planted wheat last fall. Had a VERY good stand of wheat, on all of the ground! Other farmers in the area, commented that it was great looking wheat for that area. I was really looking forward to the 2007 wheat harvest. Then the Rains came, and they still come. I have harvested 100 acres off of the 800+ down in that area, and "0" acres of the 1300 I have around my home. This is on a crop share basis, for those that were wondering. I posted some questions yesterday, wondering what to do with the standing wheat, if I take the crop insurance adjustment for loss. Terrible, Terrible, year to be a farmer in my part of Kansas! Jim

Wheat mess this year, seeking input?

Wed, 04 Jul 2007 12:02:37 -0500

Wheat crop was a disaster in many parts of Kansas and northern Oklahoma, and we all are faced with some baffeling decisions. I have 2000 acres of wheat unharvested, and it's beginning to look more like it will not get harvested this year. Still too muddy to get into the ground, plus some wheat is starting to sprout. I will not track up my fields plowing around for a few bushel! Biggest question, is what to do with the wheat, if I take the crop insurance assesment and abandon the crop? I'm afraid I will have a major disaster trying to just leave the wheat and plant into it, as some is layed over, twisted, etc. Im sure there would be an abundance of volunteer coming up this fall that I could not control. I cannot burn the wheat, even if I wanted to, as I have acres in the EQIP program which forbids this. I am open to any and all ideas, comments from those that have experienced similar disasters in the past. thanks, Jim

erosion troubles

Wed, 27 Jun 2007 22:13:55 -0500

I've been in no-till for about a year and a half, and my ground is still highly erodible. I had twenty two inches of rain in may, now i have some terrible ruts in spots. Whats the best implement to use to fix these spots?

cover crops after wheat harvest

Wed, 27 Jun 2007 22:00:06 -0500

I farm in central kansas, can i plant a cover crop after wheat harvest in june to keep something growing on that ground till fall? Some of the ground i plan on putting it back to wheat this fall, and the rest i'll plant to soybeans next spring. What cover crop would you recommend?

Reply to New to no-till

Tue, 26 Jun 2007 05:50:22 -0500

John: Thanks so much for the fast reply. I came to the same conclusion that you did. I am leaning to utilizing one of a couple of choices of two row planter systems with a no-till coulter mounted in front - possibly with residue managers. I'm going to either go with the old JD7000 series planters or a Yetter Flex 71 type or maybe even one of the new MaxEmerge planters. The reason for this choice is weight primarily but also cost. The planter units weigh 150 pounds, the coulter units 100 pounds, and the presswheels another 20 pounds. That gives me nearly 300 pounds of downpressure weight per seed drop. On the Great Plains, it equates to 253 pounds per seed drop although I'm sure more weight can be added. The kicker is cost - the Great Plains is a $10,000+ investment whereas I can do a two-row ATV pull system with a high speed winch (3 second up or down for fast turnaround) for less than $4,000. Keep in mind that my planting time is early, early spring. In Alabama, our soils are super moist at that time of year and slice up like butter. That is where the advantage of an ATV pull system comes into play. I can ride on existing chicory/clover when the soil is moist and not worry about creating ruts with the tires. I think this will be my best timing to open a clean furrow and be able to drop the seed effectively. Check out this link for video although it doesn't show the no-till coulter option but you can imagine a frame in front of the planter frame where the coulter would be mounted in-line. He can mount any conventional planter on that frame assembly as well as any type coulter in front of it.: http://www.outdooressentialsllc.com/rowmodel.html The last thing that makes a big no-till less attractive is the spacing that I need to plant the cowpeas. At a minimum, I need 28" between rows and a Great Plains type would require that I plug off most of the openings to achieve proper row spacing. I am most likely going to plant at 36" spacing which is near the maximum recommended for cowpeas. The reason for that is that the chicory has to be mowed to keep the stems from bolting which makes it less productive and palatable. Believe it or not I plan to mow 6-7 acres between rows with a 30" deck Snapper riding mower 1-2 times per summer. Man, what we do to grow big deer. Anyhow, feel free to shoot holes in it - I need all the feedback I can get. I'm probably going to give it a try and see if it works. These ATV planting units are the newest tool for deer farmers and pretty easy to re-sell at a small loss.

Reply to New to no-till

Sat, 23 Jun 2007 02:01:42 -0500

From what I see I do not believe the old JD FB drill will to the job you want done. Inter-planting anything into a growing crop is always a challenge because the existing crop tries to suppress the new seedlings. I would recommend getting something like a small Great Plains or Truax no-till that is designed to do the job. Tye has had a small mounted drill they call a "Pasture Pleaser" for many years and you might be able to find a used one somewhere. This will costs more, but buying something that does not work is not a good idea either. Getting a disc opener to cut into hard soil and existing sod takes a sharp blade and lots of weight. A shank type opener will pull itself into the soil, but they disturb more soil. But narrow shanks 15 inches apart only going a couple inches deep should not totally ruin your pasture and might do it a little good. Dragging a light harrow behind the drill would probably be a good idea. The link shows a small mounted GP notill drill. BTW, a single disc opener should work as well and maybe better than a double disc opener. http://www.greatplainsmfg.com/products/compact/3p605nt.pdf

Reply to what is this?

Fri, 22 Jun 2007 23:08:40 -0500

Amplify L is a liquid seed treatment product from Conklin. There is also a dry product Amplify D which I have used for the last two years. No side by side tests on my farm yet but the corn fields I used it on last year did well enough I used it on all my acres this year.

what is this?

Tue, 19 Jun 2007 07:16:43 -0500

I was reading the latest issue of NoTill Farmer, specifically the "Tips from Notill Champs". One of the guys says that "to get his corn off to a quick start" He uses "Amplify L". He claims he has seen 12 bu an acre increase in side by side tests. Can anybody tell me what this product is? Mark

New to no-till

Sat, 16 Jun 2007 12:23:38 -0500

Hopefully I won't offend any of you farmers (God bless ya'll for doing what you do) or take up space on this forum. I am a deer farmer in Georgia and Alabama searching for a no-till option for my mixed chicory/clover stands for summer forage mainly. I would like to no-till an annual forage pea/bean like Lablab or forage soybeans into these stands of mixed chicory/clover. The reason that I want to do this is to hedge my limited acreage of forage against drought devasation of my summer forages. If the beans/peas get taken out by drought, I've still got a perennial chicory stand that does well in our drought conditions. Anyhow, I am looking for a reasonably well performing piece of equipment that doesn't totally tear up the chicory/clover and can still seed the summer beans/peas at 0.5" - 1" deep. I won't rely on yield like ya'll do but would like reasonable performance. I am working with a loamy clay in my part of the world but the main issue is rocks - about grapefruit size mainly. With no-till I think I can plant slower than my current drop seeder which should minimize any damage to discs/coulters. All of the smaller no-tills that I need for smaller irregular shaped fields that I plant are single disc openers and are fairly pricey ($4,000 and up which is chump change for ya'll) for what I want to do. I can get a totally refurbished JD Model FB from a custom shop in Texas for about $2,000 that has coulters or spike shanks added to it and probably can get press wheels added to it to replace the drill chains for about another $500. In effect, I will be about half the cost of the lowest price food plot model from Sukup which has spring tines and single disc openers only. I will have to close off every other tube hole to get enough spacing for the peas/beans without shading out the chicory/clover too much from what the fella at the co-op says and put them on 15" spacing. My question is I am looking at dismal failure with the FB and should I go with the shanks and coulters together, shanks only, or coulters and single discs - given that I am going to hit some rocks. Also considering the depth which I need to plant. I will be planting in early spring and try to time with a rain to get adequate depth control. If I sound like someone that knows little about what he's doing it's because I am! I've got a no-till soybean farmer that works with me at a lumber mill and he is most concerned about not having double disc openers for the large size seed. Any advice would be appreciated. You can go here for some pictures of the machine on another forum that I consult for advice: http://www.qdmaforums.com/showthread.php?t=9815

Reply to wild onions

Sat, 02 Jun 2007 11:39:24 -0500

I think we have the same thing that you are talking about coming out of the road ditches and water ways. I have found my best results from mowing them to open up the hollow tube and then a heavy shot of 24D. This also works right behind the bean head. John

Reply to Residue not breaking down

Fri, 01 Jun 2007 08:39:27 -0500

John Frank, One of the first things I like to do to check for earthworm activity is to dig a few holes with a back-hoe in a field. A back-hoe may seem like over-sizing the hole but it allows you to get down in the the "dirt" to poke around looking for earthworm channels, soil horizons, tillage pans, and roots. (My suggestion or bias for using a using a backhoe trench to look at soil profiles probably comes from my involvement in soil judging in college, the joy of using equipement to move dirt rather than a shovel and one's back, and that Dr. Clapperton has used them in many of her field discussion through out the PNW.) If you have a Soil Scientist available from NRCS give them a call to help you look at your soil profile, they are usually more than willing to get in a trench. Regarding Ed's suggestion about purchasing earthworms - I would do some research on the source or type of earthworm you get before purchasing. You could end up with ones that are too aggressive and remove too much of your residue. There are reports of this happening in forested evironments with the introduction of non-native nightcrawlers from fishermen dumping left-over bait out at the end of the day. How that transfers to a cropped situation may need some more research and discussion. I do agree with Ed about cover crops! There are many possibilies to explore regarding cover crops. Tom Shibley Agronomist/Sales Rep Bio Till

Reply to Residue not breaking down

Fri, 01 Jun 2007 01:51:13 -0500

Research work on earthworms has been done in western Canada and Dr. Jill Clapperton is one of the primary researcher. Here is a link to some info put out by Pacific Northwest Direct Seed conference which has much good info on soil, nutrients and earthworms and it also has links to Dr. Clapperton. http://pnwsteep.wsu.edu/DirectSeed/conf2k2/dscclapperton.htm

Reply to wild onions

Thu, 31 May 2007 09:31:32 -0500

Mark, I would check with your crop advisor or extension agent to get a possitive i.d. on what you have. Wild onion and wild garlic are similar but different. Some of what you wrote makes me wonder if you might also have wild garlic along with wild onion (the low dense mats). For both you can also use Harmony GT in the spring at .5 to .6 oz/ac. Dupont just released a Supplemental Label this spring removing the two week pre-plant application requirement if planting to soybeans. Now it is just pre-plant with no waiting period. (There was no pre-plant wait period for corn.) Harmony GT is an effective wild garlic and onion control option pre-plant for corn and soybeans. Use a good, high quality surfactant with it. Tom Shibley, CCA Agronomist/Sales Rep Bio Till

Reply to jd 750 adjustment

Wed, 30 May 2007 14:06:15 -0500

I would increase the down pressure. You might have to put weights on the drill.

jd 750 adjustment

Mon, 28 May 2007 20:32:05 -0500

I have a 750 no-till drill and want to plant into corrugated ground. The problem that I'm having is that the discs that ride the ridges do not allow the the discs that is suppose to be in the bottom of the corrugations to drop. Does anyone know enough about this drill to make the adjustment? I do know that this drill had been used for this application.

Reply to Residue not breaking down

Sun, 27 May 2007 10:37:57 -0500

First thing I think I would do is try to find someone who is knowledgeable on soil activity to see my fields and do some digging with me. We have that resource at Ohio State and I have done this. I learned much! The next thing we did was inoculate soil with earthworms, purchased, hand pulled, whatever we could get. Cover crops encourage soil life. Is there something you are doing that is detrimental to earthworms or is your soil that barren? After 15 years I would think it would be difficult to provide enough residue to feed them! If you send me a soil test result I would be happy to share my experience with you. Ed Winkle edwinkle@verizon.net

Reply to Starter fertilizer

Fri, 25 May 2007 09:06:30 -0500

A salt is a combination of an acid and a base. If the pH of the fertilizer is somewhere near pH 7 it contains salts. Essentially all fertilizer materials are salts. If it is "low salt" fertilizer it means it is low in plant nutrients. Respectfully, Matt Hagny, consulting agronomist since '94, founder of Exapta Solutions ('99).

Reply to Soil Aeration

Wed, 23 May 2007 09:09:51 -0500

Chris, Subsoiling is all too often more of a feel-good practice than one that actually achieves any economic or agronomic benefits. If a field had a severe tillage-layer prior to starting no-till, you *might* do something worthwhile in attempting to redistribute this compacted layer (although this only is effective if soils are very dry). Once that is done, you should never consider subsoiling again. === Matt Hagny, consulting agronomist since '94, founder Exapta Solutions ('99)

Soil Aeration

Tue, 22 May 2007 06:25:28 -0500

Has anyone tried subsoiling in No-Till corn? What type of machine is best and how do you deal with the residue? I have just harvested my grain crop (NZ farmer) and am wanting to eliminate some soil compaction. I mulched the plant residue prior to subsoiling. The residue is not being cut by the disc coulters and is riding up the leg of the subsoiler and stoping the disc from turning causing a blockage in a very short distance of travel. With the discs removed I get on better but am still having the residue bunch up on the leg and then roll off in a pile which will cause more problems when I plant the next crop with out doing further cultivation passes to spread, which I want to avoid. Please help.

Reply to Starter fertilizer

Fri, 18 May 2007 22:30:51 -0500

Base ours on soil test. We are low in P so we use a 6-24-6. Many use 5 gallons of 10-34 so I wouldn't be afraid but personally I don't want all that salt in my trench. Probably doesn't hurt a thing but I don't want it there. S is important, almost all of my soil and tissue tests are low in S. Ed

Reply to wild onions

Fri, 18 May 2007 22:22:41 -0500

Since I was born, I think, Mark. They really like the old weathered Illinoian Glacial Till. 2,4-D is their enemy and you can tell where they never use it. Looks like an onion production field. I believe they could live on glyphosate. Best in the fall right after harvest, earlier the better, quart to the acre. I like corn syrup or a good surfactant to stick to those slimy stems. We had some ruts and laid some up on top with the field cultivator(cuss word on NoTill Talk) and got three weeks of dry weather and cured them out. I don't recommend that, we just got lucky. Regular doses of 2,4-D in a good crop rotation is my recommendation. We don't have near as many as we used to. When you dig up corn furrows and get onions and white grubs, you know you have problems. Ed Winkle

Starter fertilizer

Wed, 16 May 2007 20:46:59 -0500

I have been useing 12-30-0-3 as my starter 2x2. Has anyone used 10-34-0 as a pop up in furrow at 5 gals. The only concern I have is it may be to hot at that rate. Thanks Cameron Mills

wild onions

Mon, 14 May 2007 11:57:50 -0500

Does anybody have any experience/advice on how to conquer an infestation of wild onions? I'm on a corn/soybean rotation, 100% no-till. I use Princep in the fall on bean stubble that is going to corn. Usually don't need a burndown in the spring on those acres, but where the onions are, I use Roundup/Clarity. It does some damage to them, but won't kill them out. I seem to have 2 types of onions, if that is possible. One is the "solitary" kind of onion that grows 12- 14" tall. The other grows about 3-5" tall and gets as thick as a stand of grass, choking out everything else that tries to grow. The solitary type doesn't really do much damage, except annoy me. The other kind, I need to figure out how to get rid of them. Anybody else ever done battle with these things? Mark

Residue not breaking down

Sun, 13 May 2007 20:57:19 -0500

I use a corn/soybean rotation and have been continous no-till for about 15 years. I am not getting significant breakdown of my residue. I am planting corn this year into corn stalks from 2005. Also am not seeing the amount of earth worm holes on the surface that I have seen in the past. I plant conventional corn and RR soybeans. I use glysophate and 2,4-D for burndown and have been using Prowl and atrazine for my corn herbicide. What can I do to improve the biological activity and earthworm population? Or who should I contact for more information. Thanks.

Reply to daryl schiefer

Sat, 12 May 2007 00:31:47 -0500

Unfortunately your smart mouth neighbor may be correct . The tillage is going to make available a lot of residue and organic matter/carbon that you have been building up for the last 6 years which will be effectively burned up in one year because of the tillage and it may give a resulting yield bump. Yield will go back to normal there after. This same thing occurs when no till land changes hands and get farmed by a "ground pounder". This makes him look good and the no tiller that did all the work look bad. But, do as Ed suggests and keep track of yields in both areas for at least a couple of years.

Reply to daryl schiefer

Fri, 11 May 2007 07:21:29 -0500

I would plant another 1100 foot strip right beside identically as possible with the same variety and population. It will be challenging to plant them the same but I would find out what the difference is. Otherwise, it is anyone's guess. Mistakes happen, sorry it happened to you. I would be upset too but for me I have learned there are bigger things in life. Now if it was intentional, that would be real messy! Report back this fall and let us know what you learned! Ed Winkle

Reply to Soybean populations

Fri, 11 May 2007 07:13:44 -0500

Pretty much so, Brian. We look at the variety, the field(history), the planting equipment and choose something in that range no matter the width. A little higher early, lowest in prime conditions like now and back to higher for late planting. Here in Ohio, I like to use narrower rows the later it gets. 15 inches would be good right now but you use what you have available. I would soon be going to a drill as planting dates get later. Any spacing early to now and narrow rows later to take advantage of canopy. I use plenty of humus inoculant in drills to slow down drop. My highest yields are with a humus, a biofungicide and even a Molyproduct along with them. That's a lot of material running through the drill! Drills were designed for higher pops so anything help me meter it down helps and I get yield gains from the products, too. That is how we averaged 80 bu on 22 varieties here in one 50 acre test field. Ed Winkle

Soybean populations

Wed, 09 May 2007 07:41:01 -0500

I have read and heard alot about reducing soybean planting populations and see that many advocate a population of 110-125,000. Are these rates consistant across the gamut of spacing (30", 15" and 7.5")??

daryl schiefer

Tue, 08 May 2007 21:34:13 -0500

what are a person's losses when a neighbor rips a 1100 foot path across a field that has been notill for 6 years. When I talked to him all he could say was maybe your yeild will be better this year.

Reply to Late N on No-Till Stalks

Mon, 07 May 2007 07:03:16 -0500

I don't believe in fall N unless one is breaking down residue or planting a new grass crop. But corn on corn would have been a great place to store some N and produce some carbon. Oh well, not all plans come together! In the spring I like a third on the planter, a third with the herbicide and a third side dressed. Half on the planter or pre emerge chem works well with half side dressed. Good luck Paul. Ed

Reply to jd 750 help

Mon, 07 May 2007 06:58:52 -0500

Take your time and learn. RTB! Read the book, the manual and make needed adjustments. The numbers on the meter openings will be low like 10 or so but don't hold me to that. RTB. If it is grassy and damp all you need to do is create a small slot, very shallow and just covered the seed. Don't bury it. Hope this helps! Ed Winkle

Reply to JD liquid fertilizer single disk openers w/ shoes

Mon, 07 May 2007 06:56:11 -0500

It really works. You will like it. Dave and Paul are innovators. They have moved no-till to the forefront of profitable crop production. Keep up the good work! Mine need to be running right now, back to the field! Ed Winkle

Reply to JD liquid fertilizer single disk openers w/ shoes

Sun, 06 May 2007 22:46:45 -0500

Keith, Check out my website www.moelleragservice.com . I manufacture a knife that will not plug,set back for long life and a stainlees steel tube that deposits the fert. below soil surface. David

jd 750 help

Fri, 04 May 2007 15:36:22 -0500

i rented a jd 750 drill to plant biomaxx wildlife seed. it is mixture of rr corn and soybeans. Recommend planting it at 45 lbs per acre. Any advice on what to set seeding rate at, depth, etc. Never used a notill drill before. Thanks

Reply to Opener Disc on 750 drill

Wed, 02 May 2007 22:27:33 -0500

I guess I would replace them pretty quick. We ran ours down to 15.5 inches and there was wear on the openers.

Opener Disc on 750 drill

Tue, 01 May 2007 01:58:21 -0500

Last Year I moved my seed boots up to the upper hole to compensate for blade wear. This year my blades are measuring 16 inches in diameter. I am just wondering how long I can run these blades before boot wear becomes an issue.

In-row fertilizer

Fri, 27 Apr 2007 22:19:38 -0500

Was wanting some ideas on best way (from pump to furrow) for getting fertilizer on in the row. Was thinking electric pump through Redball to Keetons. Of course one of the first guys I talked tosaid Keetons would be a mistake. I've personally used Keetons in the past w/out liquid and got along fine with them. Same guy said he uses a roller pump through a controller to Rebounders (of course he sells Rebounders). I'm using a low volume, lower analysis fertilizer blended for in-row. Thanks, Todd

Butch Fisher

Thu, 26 Apr 2007 14:34:28 -0500

Our Soil and Water Conservation District rents No-Till drills. We are having problems with our 15ft JD 1560 no-till drills. We keep breaking the rockshafts, like 4 in the past 5 years. Mainly the rear rockshalfts but the last one was the front. Anyone else haveing problems with the rockshafts.

JD liquid fertilizer SD opener w/ or w/o shoe

Tue, 24 Apr 2007 11:39:23 -0500

I see Ed Winkle stating that he prefers JD SD openers a lot. Seeing how the object is to move as little soil as possible, am I correct in assuming that the delivery preference is a tube behind the disc? Our planter has a shoe next to the disc that plugs.

JD liquid fertilizer single disk openers w/ shoes

Mon, 23 Apr 2007 12:36:01 -0500

I recently aquired a JD 7200 with single disk openers and accompanying shoe. I am finding that the shoe is unworkable. In soybean stubble, it gathers and mounds up trash in front. In disced ground, soil jams between the shoe and disc and the disc can't turn. Am I missing something?

Reply to spring barley

Sat, 21 Apr 2007 18:37:17 -0500

I am going to plant some forage radishes after seeing what Steve's did. If you try them let me know what you learned. Ed Winkle www.cedarmeadowfarm.com

Reply to Fertilizer Placement Behind Row Unit

Mon, 16 Apr 2007 09:07:01 -0500

Hello ! I looked at doing the same thing at one time. Yetter makes a unit called T.O.W. Fertilizer Opener. Don't know much about it but I went another direction with all Martin . Good Luck Denny

Reply to 15" annual ryegrass

Sun, 15 Apr 2007 21:18:44 -0500

yeah i figure well give it a try. we got our planter set up for zone till and have had good luck with it, with the three coulters per row and yetter row cleaners.

Reply to 15" annual ryegrass

Sat, 14 Apr 2007 20:33:14 -0500

I always tell people to not be afraid of trying something new because unless you try it at least 1 time how else will you know. I have had more bizzare things work out sucessfully than have been failures. Our experience to date with the annual ryegrass has been good. Planting into it whether it has been alive and green or dead as a nail has not been an issue for us in NY. The top growth does not get to course and rank like cereal rye does. The root structure doesn't seem to make clumps like some others can. It has a fairly fine root and stem and it should be terminated early in the season. Also need to consider how your planter is equiped as to what you can tolerate for residue. I.E. does it have notill coulters and any other options ?? Donn E. Branton

Reply to Late N on No-Till Stalks

Sat, 14 Apr 2007 20:10:40 -0500

Unless you can apply the nit. when you plant, not knowing how your planter is set up, option 2 + 3 sound the best as far as the best efficiency/utilization of the nitrogen. I don't like putting nit. on top of the ground because of losses involved . When you are only dealing with 30 acres it is tough to spend much $$ to set up a method to do this. The important thing is going to get the nitrogen on soon enough ( be it part or all) so the crop does not suffer yield loss. Donn E. Branton

15" annual ryegrass

Sat, 14 Apr 2007 19:55:31 -0500

this is something new i want to play with. i like everything about the ryegrass, except for the part about planting corn into the standing vegetation. we have successfully grown winter wheat in 15" rows with our kinze splittler planter. this way there would be a nice strip of bare ground that i could plant into, maybe even strip till in the spring. it might take a few more years to get the full benefit from the ryegrass, but it would be better than nothing at all. let me know what you guys think.

Reply to spring barley

Sat, 14 Apr 2007 19:45:08 -0500

Thanks Ed. Yes we have used oats in the past and had good luck in challenging conditions. We are currently using ann. ryegrass as of the last 2 years and so far have been excited about it. Thinking about getting some Radish seed this year from Steve G. in Pa. and giving that a try. With the rye grass, the first year we rented a 30 ft used drill and went into Sweetcorn and some wheat stubble after harvest and drilled through the residue and had great results without any other tillage. This past year we mixed the ryegrass (annual) with potash and airflowed the mix onto our sweetcorn ground right after harvest and that also worked great. This system gave us dual application which saved us another step ($$$$). May try the radish's this way also ??

no till into wheat straw or burn

Sat, 14 Apr 2007 14:25:10 -0500

i farm in stutgart arkansas and we grow rice beans and wheat. after we cut beans which are on 30 inch beds we no till wheat into the beds. i hope to no till soybeans behind the wheat to keep from tilling because here the hardpan is 10 inches and there is not much moisture in june. i didnt know whether to burn or plant into the straw. we have a 30 ft allplant crustbuster and a 7300 jd planter on 30 inch rows which one will be better?

deer problems

Sat, 14 Apr 2007 14:14:45 -0500

i have a farm next to a game and fish refuge and it is closed to hunters.last year we had to replant 100 acres of soybeans. any ideas of how to keep them out? we were on 30 inch rows and the deer just walk down each row eating 90% of them. we just bought a crustbuster all plant hoping the drill beans might fare better than rows. we grow rice on a three year rotation and beans are the only crop we can grow around here to fit the rotation. but at 30 dollars a sack we cant afford to replant over and over.

Fertilizer Placement Behind Row Unit

Sat, 14 Apr 2007 10:08:57 -0500

I looking some advice from you guys about corn fert. placements behind the row units. Or in other words the last tillage step off of the planter. If any of you are doing this are know someone or know of what epuipment companis make such attachments. Thanks in advance, James

Reply to New Guy with JD 7000

Wed, 11 Apr 2007 11:06:17 -0500

I was in your shoes a year ago, just saw your poist now-sorry. http://www.paul-julia.com/planter.shtm

Reply to Which bean meter for JD 7000

Wed, 11 Apr 2007 11:04:18 -0500

Kinze bean meters are awesome-way better than Deere cups. Sloan Express makes a cheaper knockoff of the Kinze that seems to work very well.

Reply to 1st planter

Wed, 11 Apr 2007 11:01:07 -0500

I haven't been back to this formum in a while-I need to check in more. I think you probably know by now-but for everyone else: I ended up with Yetter Floating Row Cleaners, Keatons, Martin Spliked Closing wheel and Chains, Precision Corn meters and Kinze Bean meters. IH Gauge wheels. Could not be happier with results last year in corn, in beans I am going back to rubber press wheels for closing. I am considering doing the same thing to a 12 row in the next year or two. If I do I am going to evaluate the new Dawn curvetine on one row before making a decision. Also will probably go with Martin over yetter for row cleaners just because they seem built a little heavier. Other than that I won't change a thing! Thanks to all here who helped me.

Reply to Strip Till

Wed, 11 Apr 2007 10:42:16 -0500

Too late now-but I think you would like fall strip till MUCH better. Thinking outside the box can you run the planter over the ground a week or so ahead of planting-maybe raise the row cleaners and just let closing wheels and a drag chain work things down a bit. Then come back a week or so later and plant?

Late N on No-Till Stalks

Wed, 11 Apr 2007 10:37:57 -0500

I got Anhydrous down on all my bean ground last fall, and most of corn-but I still have about 30 acres of stalks that is going corn on corn with no N down yet. (This is the last year I try to wait and do something in the spring). I tried to get AMS this winter but that didn't pan out. Due to the CSP program I am commited to 100% no-till. So unless I am missing something here are my options: 1) Get some 28% sprayed on with chemicals right after planting. 2) Extra spray trip and try to get 28% on right ahead of rain. 3) Sidedress 100% of N. (not sure if this is even fiesable) Any thoughts?

Reply to No-till planter ?

Wed, 11 Apr 2007 10:14:36 -0500

The biggest step was when I took off the coulter, Mark. Have you tried that? Ed

Reply to spring barley

Wed, 11 Apr 2007 08:57:03 -0500

Good points Donn. Saw your picture with a good article the other day but I forget which publication it was in but I think it was Farm Journal. Have you tried oats, annual rye or forage turnips yet? Ed Winkle

Reply to Planter Closing wheels

Wed, 11 Apr 2007 08:55:06 -0500

Who would have imagined that row cleaners turned backwards would do that job of tilling beside and below the seed? I thank the Reed boys and cousin David Moeller for figuring that out. Ed

White Grubs

Mon, 09 Apr 2007 08:38:17 -0500

We seem to have an infestation of white grubs here in south central PA and some are pointing to no-till as the culprit. Anyone else experiencing this problem? How are you dealing with the problem? Are you seeing an increase as a result of no-till?

Reply to spring barley

Sun, 08 Apr 2007 06:38:08 -0500

Have used spring Barley in the past as it has a good fiberous root but spring barley will winter kill. If you don't get it planted soon enough to get good growth then you won't gain much benefit. I don't think there is enough time after soy and corn harvest for this. Winter barley , obviously as it's name won't winter kill. We have used both at different times in places that we either wanted a live cover crop in the spring or a dead one. Donn E. Branton, western NY

Reply to Planter Closing wheels

Fri, 30 Mar 2007 22:23:53 -0500

I'm Martin, front to back on my planter. I can't imagine anything out there that would work any better. Mark

Reply to Covercropping/ arid areas

Wed, 28 Mar 2007 08:05:20 -0500

There is much interest in cover crops to conserve moisture, convert essential elements and keep the soil "energized." As one experienced farmer said in Pa at the NoTill Alliance meeting, the dying cover crop roots give energy to the soil and the new crop. Good way to put it. Annual rye is number one around here, oats are popular, forage radishes are gaining momentum from much success and interest. The cover should be cheap, easy to establish, easy to kill. The big management factor is getting it all done. I think a lot of farmers don't even get all the lime on they need around here let alone establish a cover crop. For best yields, it all needs to be done! Good luck in your quest for covers in ND. I think they could pay you good rewards. Ed

Reply to Planter Configuration Change

Wed, 28 Mar 2007 04:54:01 -0500

I agree with Ed. I have the complete Martin setup on my planter and love it with great results. Martin floating row cleaners, N coulter right behind the the trash wheels, starter applied in furrow with the keeton seed firmers, spiked closing wheels, just floating with the drag chains. Makes for great chance of very good, even emergence.

Reply to Nitrogen at planting

Wed, 28 Mar 2007 04:47:09 -0500

The reason I make a pass in the fall is for several reasons. I have years of data proving that I get much better results putting my P&K with some N down in the ground about 6". It is down in the ground where it needs to be not over the top. It helps fracture the ground to help let moisture in and most of all leaves a nice 8" wide strip of less residue, which makes it nice to plant into and that strip in the spring warms up quicker. I make one pass in the fall, one pass planting, putting on my N and starter and usually only one pass with my sprayer.

Reply to Covercropping/ arid areas

Tue, 27 Mar 2007 14:00:13 -0500

Greg, Cover crops may still have a place in your area. Proper selection and management is critical so that soil moisture is not lost. There is no simple answer but I would begin by searching out other no-till farmers in your area that are successful with cover crops.

Reply to Nitrogen at planting

Tue, 27 Mar 2007 07:11:27 -0500

Passes ARE money so why do you strip anything in the fall Denny? I can't get it to pencil like the $300 rents I hear in Illinois. Ed

Reply to Planter Configuration Change

Tue, 27 Mar 2007 07:10:03 -0500

I try to not throw ANY soil, that is why we like the JD single disk opener. Try no coulter, you will love it, plant earlier and potentially gain more yeild. If you must learn like me, I went from moldboard to chisel to wavy to straight to none. Complete Martin setup. N and Sulfur beside furrow and popup in row makes notill just about unscrewupable and unbeatable in yield and profit.

Planter Configuration Change

Tue, 27 Mar 2007 06:22:43 -0500

I currently have the 3 coulter Rawson system on my JD 7000 planter and inject 32% behind the outside coulters. I am going to install Martin trash wipers. I am thinking about moving the outside coulters away from the row a little more and changing to 13 wave coulters to minimize the amount of loose soil that contacts the gauge wheels. Will I be able to remove the center coulter (13 wave), switch to a smooth coulter blade to cut the corn stalks, or should I continue to use the 13 wave coulter? I am also changing to single disk dry fertilizer openers and plan to throw the dirt to the outside. What are your thoughts on use of the existing coulter setup?

Markers for 750 Drill

Mon, 26 Mar 2007 21:37:47 -0500

I would like to know if anyone has put markers from a corn planter, any brand of planter, on a 750 JD drill. Also what you used for the hydraulic system, and how you attached the markers to the drill.

Reply to 1st planter

Mon, 26 Mar 2007 20:41:08 -0500

I do not recommend JD bean meters. I bought them new 4 years ago and fought with them for 3 years. This past year I bought Kinze bean meters during the planting season because I was having so much downtime. I did not have a single problem with the Kinze meters and you don't have to change settings as you do on the JD meters. I went back to the JD dealer and made my case for them not to sell any more of them. At the time they did not appreciate me.

Reply to 7200 Disc Openers

Fri, 23 Mar 2007 20:02:37 -0500

I am sure you could make it work, Matthew. The best setup I have seen for the true VEE openers like that planter and all but IH is the Martin setup and it works best with new double disk openers and all the other parts of the system to make the true vee imitate the Case IH. Many think it is even better modified this way. I found a scrap 5100 White and built it from the ground up with the Martin system. I couldn't buy a new notill planter as good, maybe more reliable but I doubt it. I am sure it would be prettier! I have seen 300 bu corn and 100 bu soybeans out of this old planter so I doubt I will be trading up soon! I had a 400 Cyclo for years and I love it in beans but never could get the right population in corn. Others sure do. Supposedly the world record for corn yields came out of the Case IH row unit so no wonder notillers want to imitate it. I do. Ed Winkle

7200 Disc Openers

Thu, 22 Mar 2007 09:53:53 -0500

Is there any advantage to the staggered disc openers like IH planters have compared to the true-v openers JD and other planters have? I have heard of people putting on 1 new disc per row and sharpening the other disc to make a staggered opener.Is it possible to do and has anyone tried this and how does it work? Also, interested in Y-not split it's or totally tubular in row fertilizer, which one works better?

Drill marker advice

Tue, 20 Mar 2007 11:11:01 -0500

I work for the conservation district in Huron county MI. We have rented JD 750,1560 and 1590 drills to producers for years and have gotten along just fine with JD markers. We have just purchased a Jd 1990 CCS 30'. We have been told the frame work for the marker system is good but the disc system on the end does'nt work well. Has anyone used a different disc assembly on the Deere arm and if so, what manufactureand how is it working?

Reply to No-till planter ?

Mon, 19 Mar 2007 18:50:48 -0500

Setting up a planter for no till is as hard as you want to make it. To get started you need a coulter, second spiked closing wheels are in my opinion the most vital part of the no till machine. Once those two bases are covered you can no till, the options of international guage wheels and the keeton seed firmers will always be there but if you are just getting started they are not a must. My main point is to wear out your guage wheels and true v discs, then when you are in there replacing them decide weather or not you need the other stuff. You dictate how much you want to spend.

Reply to Nitrogen at planting

Mon, 19 Mar 2007 05:55:30 -0500

Hello ! I am putting down 30 gal per ac of 32 Nit with my planter. I have the Martin row cleaners with the floaters in combo with the fertilizer opener following the trash wheels. I am offset 3" to the side and 3/4" below the seed. Followed by a Keeton seed firmer and then the Martin spiked closing wheels and drag chain. Passes are money and I am doing two things at once and putting the fertilizer where I feel it needs to go. I also strip till in the fall, all my P & K and some N. This works well in bean stubble and in no till corn stalk ground. The results are amazing !

Reply to JD 750 Liquid Fert.

Sun, 18 Mar 2007 16:27:14 -0500

Blumhardt offers some good products, we set up our JD1560 for liquid and we're pretty happy with the set-up. Just Google Blumhardt Equipment

Covercropping/ arid areas

Sun, 18 Mar 2007 16:19:20 -0500

We're no-tilling now for about 4 years in SW N.Dakota. Reading about cover crops and learning, yet I'm wondering in an area where our limiting factor is moisture (we're in 6 years of drought) how beneficial are cover crops in our area where we strive to conserve as much water as we can. No irrigation here.

Reply to ANNUAL RYE WINTERKILLED

Fri, 16 Mar 2007 21:40:52 -0500

The wheat doesn't even look good here, let alone the annual rye. Too cold too wet too long. Ed

Reply to Nitrogen at planting

Fri, 16 Mar 2007 21:39:18 -0500

I don't think so. We apoly 20 gallons of 28 and 5 gallons of ammonium thiosulfate 2 inches from the row. My thumb rule is one inch for each 10 gallons of UAN.

Reply to Planter Closing wheels

Fri, 16 Mar 2007 21:14:34 -0500

The Schlagel is better than any stock ones but I prefer the Martin spading closing wheels. Simply small residue cleaners run the opposite direction. They till gently beside and above the furrow. Warmed the soil 10 degrees Tuesday when we tried the planter out again. Only took from noon to four to reach that temp, too.

Reply to Frank Lessiter

Fri, 16 Mar 2007 21:10:00 -0500

What is the cost of the gypsum? The National Soil Erosion Lab in Purdue found that 35 pounds of gypsum per inch of rainfall will increase soil and water movement 300 to 500 percent according to soil type. A farmer in Iowa told me this 10 years ago and it is true. Will that cure the fields ills? I have no idea.

Reply to Frank Lessiter

Wed, 14 Mar 2007 16:17:39 -0500

Here In MI, we use gypsum to help loosen tight soils. Like from excessive compaction (easily pegged a dickey john compaction tester and I wasn't heavy enough (160 lbs) to push it more than 3 inches deep. Helps water infiltration, aids in root growth.... the farm which has a heavy clay based loam soil was a whole different place the next year...where it had been a brick, it is now fluff. If I hadn't seen it with my own eyes I never would have believed it. By the way, the rate was 1 ton per acre, expensive, but worth every single penny. And yes, my yeilds went up dramatically, but had been embarassingly low pre gypsum. Hope this info is helpful.

1500 John Deere No Till Drill

Tue, 13 Mar 2007 22:58:16 -0500

Can anyone give me info on a John Deere 1500 no till drill. We want to get a drill for our hunting club. Is this a good choice. What is one worth in good condition. Thanks Charles

Reply to Corn into wheat

Mon, 12 Mar 2007 19:29:58 -0500

I don't know about a cover crop, but I had 20 ac. in 2005 that had come out of a wheat/ double crop soybean rotation. It was the best corn that I had raised on that farm. It had been continuous no till for 3 years. We had trouble with rats in the wheat stubble eating seed corn, but that was it. 210 bu./ac. Anhydrous was spring applied VRT.

Corn into wheat

Mon, 12 Mar 2007 10:55:03 -0500

A No-Till Farmer reader from Illinois would like some tips on no-tilling corn into wheat stubble. He has also planted a ryegrass cover crop into the wheat stubble and plans to burn it down with Roundup. Anyone have advice for planting a good crop in such a field? Thanks.

sidedress bar 4920 JD

Thu, 08 Mar 2007 15:28:32 -0600

I remember seeing a sidress applicator w/ coulters for a john deere sp sprayer i think it was made in iowa can anyone tell me who makes it or where i can get one?

Reply to Planter Closing wheels

Tue, 06 Mar 2007 10:38:07 -0600

I'm also looking for closing wheel info. I was seriously considering the Schlagels especially since they have a money back guarantee, but now I'm not so sure. Can anyone be more specific on why they don't work well? Thanks.

Reply to Planter Closing wheels

Tue, 06 Mar 2007 06:09:06 -0600

Hello, I use the Martins with the chains and they do a great job. I did recieve a tip from the planter guy to weld the first 3 or 4 links and the chains won't flip up onto the wheels. I am Martin front to back and like them all

Reply to Thompson vs. Martin

Tue, 06 Mar 2007 06:05:08 -0600

Brian, I have been using the Martin closing wheels for 3 years and love them. I run it with no down pressure and let the drag chain help smooth out. If you put to much down pressure on any spike tooth closer, it could damage the seed wall. I do strip till and I have great, even stands. I did attend a planter meeting with the Planter Man and he said to weld the first 3 or 4 links together. That stops the chain flipping up onto the wheels.

Thompson vs. Martin

Mon, 05 Mar 2007 08:02:14 -0600

Does anyone have experience with the Thompson closing wheel vs. the tried and true Martin closing wheel? How do the prices compare and how long do they last? Thanks!

Reply to What size tractor to pull 15' JD 1590

Sat, 03 Mar 2007 21:33:37 -0600

Buz, You'll be ok with 85Hp. I have a 6410 MFWD fully weighted on a 2pt 15' 1560 and the tractor has no problem at all on level ground. On slopes its a little more work but so far I have had no big issues.

tractor advice

Thu, 01 Mar 2007 19:07:43 -0600

Greetings everyone, I am about to undertake a new farm project, and want to buy a new tractor. I do not know what tractor to buy. Will be creating raised vegetable and culinary herb beds, and forsee some conservation tilling the first year, then no tilling after that. I am unfamiliar with most of your farming/notill lingo. John Deere comes to mind as a safe guess. Looking for a medium sized farm tractor that is compatible with most farm attachments (especially no till). It seems John Deere makes several types of tractors, including farming ones, and which one is good for this project, or any other tractor company/model? Regards, Chris

Reply to 7200 6 row narrow to wide row

Thu, 01 Mar 2007 10:51:19 -0600

I have changed the row widths on half a dozen planters, from mildly (30"-28") to wildly (30" to 20") and it isn't terribly hard. Assuming you are relatively mechanical, have a good eye for backyard engineering your way around unexpected problems, and have enough fabrication ability to make any needed modifications it isn't too hard. Figure out how long it should take, then double your estimate because it is time consuming finishing up a project like that and tying up all the loose ends (lengthening or shortening hyd hoses, moniter harnesses, etc, etc, etc...) Hope this helps.

Drag Chains for CIH 950

Thu, 01 Mar 2007 09:27:27 -0600

Has anyone put drag chains on a CIH 950. I have combo res. mang./ coulters, Keeton firmers, and JS Ag closing disks. I have thoughts of removing my press wheel and putting on drag chains, but I have yet to find any manufacturer that makes a chain kit for the Early Riser unit. I have also thought about removing the down pressure spring from the press wheel. I think the press wheel is compacting the surface enough to cause emergence problems. Any help would be appreciated.

Drag Chains for CIH 950

Thu, 01 Mar 2007 09:17:22 -0600

Reply to getting the best out of a no till drill

Sun, 25 Feb 2007 10:32:56 -0600

Hi Will Have you been on to the Yetter and Great Plains websites - both supply components. In my experience some of the no-till add-on suppliers are quite small and are not too interested in shipping kit out of US...

Reply to Rookie No-Till help PLEASE!

Sun, 25 Feb 2007 10:25:32 -0600

if the ground seems to be very weedy, then a little extra chemistry besides roundup will go a long way an helping control weeds. over the years your weed seed bank probably built up some. in the spring you will want to do a burn down before planting so you'll have a nice clean seedbed at planting. while your out there with the burn down, another 8-10 dollars worth of preemergence chemical will go along way and easily pay for itself with less early weed competition with your soybeans. it will also delay the growth of the weeds and give you a larger window to spray your postemergence glyphosate. there are several options for this, i would suggest talking to a local coop to find out what works good in your area. i would suggest canopy df, scepter, domain, python, or firstrate. there are plenty of options out there for this. also a 3/8 oz of synchrony xp with your postemergence glyphosate will help. very cheap residual at only abou $2.50 an acre.

getting the best out of a no till drill

Sat, 24 Feb 2007 05:11:32 -0600

I farm in the UK and I'm just beginning to no till here. Growing mainly small grains and forages. Anyway I've got hold of a sukup/ marliss drill which I'm guessing is about 10 years old and have had to give it a bit of a refurb. and improve it on a budget. The drill has a coulter caddy and looks quite like a Great Plains from what I can tell. I have a couple of questions if you guys would be kind enough to answer them for me, as theres not too many no till drills running in the UK 1. After the caddy coulters opens up the slot the double discs are exactly opposite each other and not offset like a lot of new designs. Is this likely to cause a particular problem with clearing away the trash? 2. There is a fair bit of seed bounce in the bottom of the trench as the seed tube is quite short, from what I can tell schaffert rebounders may do a good job of keeping the seed in? Can you make a home made device or perhaps I should import some rebounders? Or do any of the seed lok wheels fit the sukup? 3. The depth control press wheel are rubber and are not that efficent at closing the slot, would something like martin spading wheels do the job for me as a retrofit, or does anybody have any farm built solutions. The harrow behind doesn't seem to do much but our soils are quite moist. 4. The double disc coulters are lacking a bit of penetration, where is the best place to weight down the drill? Thanks in advance. Will

Reply to What size tractor to pull 15' JD 1590

Thu, 15 Feb 2007 07:02:14 -0600

Thanks Scott. Appreciate your input.

Reply to What size tractor to pull 15' JD 1590

Wed, 14 Feb 2007 08:03:19 -0600

JD recommends a minimum of 85hp to pull a 10' 1590. I pulled a 10' last spring in Pennsyvania on 8-12% slopes with a well weighted JD 4000 and it pushed me around a bit. The power of the tractor was not an issue (96hp) but the weight of the drill was (a 10ft weighs 6900lbs empty.) The drill I used had the front dolly and the tractor gets no weight tranferred to it. I'd recommend a 10' for your tractor.

What size tractor to pull 15' JD 1590

Wed, 14 Feb 2007 00:34:44 -0600

I've been looking at drills and was wondering if my 6415 (86 pto HP) was big enough to pull a 15'. Would 10' be better suited? Thanks.

Reply to 1st planter

Tue, 13 Feb 2007 14:03:20 -0600

Paul, Wonder what you have decided on? Ed

JD Single Disc Fert. Opener (1770NT)

Fri, 09 Feb 2007 08:10:45 -0600

I have a customer that has 16-JD Single Disc Fert. Openers off of a 1770NT planter for sale. Openers are two years old and have Hyper Side Knife for liquid application and grease zerks installed in hubs. Blades measure 15 3/4"(New 16") Asking $480.00 ea. Located in SE Iowa. E-mail if you have further questions.

controlling trees

Wed, 07 Feb 2007 18:27:19 -0600

I am having trouble controlling locust and cedar trees in my no-till ground. Roundup does not control them. I live in north central Kansas and have primarily sandy loam soils. Would like any ideas on how to control them. Thanks

Reply to Planter Closing wheels

Mon, 05 Feb 2007 09:50:01 -0600

Thank You for answering my post. I have not made any purchases yet, and I'm still gathering infomation.Someone else responded wanting to sell me his used Schagels. I guess that tells me something. Ihave a neighbor that is going to try one Dawn and one original rubber closing wheel. Maybe thats the answer too. Iwish you the best for 2007! Thanks again.

Reply to Spring NH3 in strip

Wed, 31 Jan 2007 07:51:46 -0600

In my area western Wisconsin, 80% of NH3 goes on in the spring, every farmer around here will wait at least 5 days before planting. Farmers have went in the next day but you need to keep the seed away from the NH3 zone, 3-5 inches or your seed could get burned. As for stubble and trash I've just used a NH3 bar with a good single coulter in front of the shank, has worked well in dry corn stalks, & bean stubble.

Spring NH3 in strip

Mon, 29 Jan 2007 14:33:08 -0600

I am thinking about putting NH3 strips between my old corn rows for corn on corn this spring. How much time must this be put down before I can plant safely? I have a old DMI NH3 bar with just a shank and closing disk. What will I need to put on front to get through the trash? We graze cows so most of the leaves are gone. Can I put a row cleaner in frount or will a coulter work better? Thanks

Which bean meter for JD 7000

Mon, 29 Jan 2007 07:23:10 -0600

I've seen the precision meters for corn and am giving them some serious thought, but what meters should I use for beans? Just go with Deere? , or is there something better? What would be used to plant milo? Thanks, Buz Brandes

Nitrogen at planting

Sun, 28 Jan 2007 14:03:00 -0600

We have been applying 20 gallons of 30% nitrogen in a band 5 inches from the seed at planting.It is injected into the soil. Is it possible to cause damage to the root system of the plant with this much nitrogen applied that closely to the seed? We have red clay soils and are located in the western piedmont of North Carolina. We use a John Deere 1760 Planter.

Reply to Planter Closing wheels

Sat, 27 Jan 2007 15:10:34 -0600

We are going to put a set of martins with a drag chain on our planter. They work really well for my neighbor's. Tried a row of schlagels 3 years ago. Don't want to say anything bad about anybodys product, but they didn't work at all for us. The rubber wheels did a better job than them if that tells you anything. Dawn's aren't bad but they still try to close the row from the top down. We are getting martin's because we like the idea of closing the row from the bottom up. Compaction is a big deal for us here in kansas no-tilling in to wheat stubble.Use the info how you would like, my opinion is worth what you paid for it. Good Luck

Reply to plugging gp no-till drill

Wed, 24 Jan 2007 17:46:43 -0600

I don't know I can't figure the drill out. I had just the opposite thought as what you recommended. The more I raised the coulters up the less the drill plugged up. We really liked to be able to really let the drill in the ground, especially if the farm had just been limed. It did a nice job working the lime in. My cell # is 785-562-7635 give me a call if you are interested in the turbo blades.

Planter Closing wheels

Tue, 23 Jan 2007 18:18:26 -0600

I'm looking for feedback form anyone using a different type of closing wheel for a JD planter. I'm wanting to no-till corn on corn. I've looked at the Schagel wheel and the T-whee featured in this months no-till magazine. Please HELP! They both look like the would work.

Reply to plugging gp no-till drill

Tue, 23 Jan 2007 18:11:42 -0600

Eric I have a Great Plains 3010 No-till precison drill with turbo coulters. I have found that running them to shallow is worst than too deep. I love them in heavy ground because they do'nt throw up chunks of soil. I've used them since the first year they where offered. If you want to sell them, I'm interested.

RTS

Wed, 17 Jan 2007 23:53:57 -0600

Has anyone ever used the Salford RTS machine, i'm new to no till (been conventional all my career) I'm seriously considering going to no till, but i still would like a slight bit of tillage...maybe vertical tillage..This machine sounds and looks good, just wondering if anyone has had any experience with it. Thanks